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HISTOEY 



ma 



OF 



CALIFORNIA, 



ITS DISCOVERY TO THE PRESENT TIME; 



COMPRISING ALSO 



A FULL DESCRIPTION OF ITS CLIMATE, SURFACE, SOIL, RIVERS, TOWNS, 

BEASTS, BIRDS, FISHES, STATE OF ITS SOCIETY, AGRICULTURE, 

COMMERCE, MINES, MINING, &c. 



A JOURNAL OF THE VOYAOE 

FROM NEW YORK, VIA NICARAGUA, TO SAN FRANCISCO, 
AND BACK, VIA PANAMA. 



WITH A NEW MAP OF THE COUNTRY 



By E. S. CAPRON 

COUNSELLOR AT LAW. 




BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY JOHN P. JEWETT & COMPANY. 

CLEVELAND, OHIO: 

JEWETT, PROCTOR AND AVORTHINGTON. 

18 5 4. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 

JOHN P. JEWETT & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Mabrdchusctts. 



Stereotyped by 
HOBART k ROBBIXS, 
New England Type and Stereotype Fouudr, 



PREFACE 



The State of California has attained, and will long occupy, a 
prominent place in the public mind. Not only its great product 
of gold and other mineral wealth, but the adaptation of its »soil 
and climate to the pursuits of agriculture, the proper seasons 
and best course of husbandry for the successful cultivation of 
the various crops, its influence as an independent state on the 
future of the American Union, its geographical position, the 
extent, character and variety, of its resources, &c., are all sub- 
jects of special and increasing interest to large numbers in the 
older states. 

Beyond its own limits, comparatively little has been known of 
the particular history of its gold mines and mining grounds ; of 
the toils, perils and success, of its miners ; of their modes and 
operations of mining, and of the vast amount of capital which 
is invested in that adventurous business. Nor has a description 
of the magic city of San Francisco, as it now exists, — of its 
moral, social and commercial state, — before been written ; and 
the public, at a distance from the scene, have been enabled to 
view it only in a faint and glimmering light. 

The opportunities of the author to gain full and particular 
information on all those subjects have been so favorable as to 
induce the compilation and publication of this volume, in the 
A* 



VI PREFACE. 

belief that the statements of flicts here presented will be found 
reliable and valuable to all who are seeking for information re- 
specting them. 

In April, 1853, the author proceeded to California, as the 
commercial agent of several extensive mercantile houses in New 
York city. In the discharge of the duties of his commission, 
he visited the principal cities and villages of the state, and com- 
municated with persons of the diff<^rent professions, trades and 
occupations. He also traversed various parts of the mining 
regions, and sojourned with the miners, among their valleys and 
mountains. During a continuance of several months in the 
coiyitry, in travel and research, he improved every opportunity 
to collect reliable information, from intelligent citizens and 
authentic records in the public offices, respecting all the im- 
portant interests of the state, and particularly of its mining, 
commercial and agricultural interests. At several of the old 
missions he met well-informed individuals, who had long resided 
in the country, from whom he learned many interesting facts 
relating to its primitive history, and the customs and institutions 
of its early inhabitants. 

Some of these facts have before been made public ; but others, 
equally valuable, have not ; and daily observation produced the 
conviction, that, although much has been written about Califor- 
nia, but little, comparatively, has yet appeared that is of much 
value, respecting that vast region, on those subjects about which 
the public generally are most solicitous for information. This 
consideration has induced the author to arrange his notes of the 
country, which were taken on the spot, into a history of the 
state ; and, in the execution of this task, especial prominence 
has been given to its agriculture and commerce, to the gold 
region, and to the city of San Francisco. 



PREFACE. VII 

In speaking of the mining districts, the mines and miners, 
those terms, names and phrases, are used, which are current 
among the miners at the mines, — the only design being to pre- 
sent the whole view as it would there appear to the common 
observer. 

A journal, or diary, is added, as the most effectual method of 
conveying a correct idea of a voyage to California. It presents 
the reader with the daily incidents which occurred on this par- 
ticular voyage, and a faithful recital of what was seen, suffered 
and enjoyed. A succession of events, in many respects similar, 
would, doubtless, form the experience of any traveller by sea to 
the land of gold. 

This volume is submitted, in the belief that it will be found a 
faithful record ; and in the hope that it may prove a useful aid 
to the reader in forming a just judgment of the country. 

Little Falls, N. Y., May 1, 1854. 



CONTENTS. 

PART FIRST. 
HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER I. 

Discovery and First Settlement of Upper California, Roman Catholic Mis- 
sions, National Farms, Presiciios, Government, Laws and Judiciary, 
Indians, Domestic Customs and Institutions, &c. ; — embracing the period 
from the discovery of the country, in 1542, to the commencement of 
hostilities between the United States and Mexico, in May, 184G, . . p. 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Brief Statement of the principal Causes of the War between the United 
States and Mexico, Conquest of Upper California, Provisional Govern- 
ment, Irregular Proceedings at San Francisco, Tcri-itorial Laws and 
Judiciary ; — embracing the period between the commencement of hos- 
tilities, in May, 18-40, and the organization of the State Government, in 
Dec., 1850, 37 

CHAPTER III. 

Adoption of the State Constitution, Admission into the Union, Boundaries, 
Civil and Political Divisions, Cities, Rivers, Mountains, Population, 
Climate, Soil, Agriculture, Resources, Mines, Minerals, Face of the 
Country, &c. ; — embracing the time between the organization of the 
State Government and the year 1854, 47 



X CONTENTS. 

PART SECOND. 

DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

CHAPTER I. 

Preliminary Remarks, Origin of tlie City, View from tlie Bay, Population, 
Progress, Public and Private Buildings, Streets, Business, Markets, 
Shipping, Improvements, Enterprise, &c., 121 

CHAPTER II. 

Public Morals, Social Customs, Religious Societies and Institutions, Ceme- 
tery, Vigilance Conunittee, Quicksilver Mine, Country contiguous and 
around the Bay of San Francisco, 145 



PART THIRD. 

GOLD MINES, MINING, AND MINERS. 

CHAPTER I. 

A Description of the several kinds of " Diggings," or Mines ; " Prospect- 
ing " for Placers and " IMining Claims ;" Different Methods of" AVash- 
iug the Dirt" and collecting the Gold ; Names, Shape and Operation of 
the Machines, Quartz Mills, Sluices, Flumes, and other fixtures used 
in Mining ; Canals, Aqueducts, Appearance of the Mining Region, . 184 

CHAPTER II. 

Number, Customs, Perils, Success and Prospects of the Miners, Miners' 
Courts, Capital invested in the different kinds of Mining, .... 227 



PART FOURTH. 

JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, &c. 

CHAPTER I. 

Voyage from New York to San Juan-del-Norte, The Ship, Its Government, 
Sea Phrases, Passengers, Incidents, Ocean Views, San Domingo, . 242 



CONTENTS. Xi 



CHAPTEIi II. 

San .Tuan-del-Norte, River and Lake Nicaragua, Mule Ride, Scenery 
Climate, Inhabitants, Delays, Extortions, Government and Religion of 
Nicaraguans, 270 

CHAPTER III. 

San Juan-del-Sud, Continuation of the Voyage, Pacific Ocean, Incidents, 
Views, Debarcation at San Francisco, 805 

CHAPTER IV. 

*• Homeward Bound," General Remarks, Embarcation, Steamer, Inci- 
dents at Sea, Acapulco, Landing at Panama, Transit of the Isthmus, 
Scenery, Aspinwall, Voyage thence to New York, Burial at Sea, Con- 
clusion 884 



CALIFORNIA; 



PART FIRST. 

ITS HISTORY, ETC 



CHAPTER I. 

Discovery and First Settlement of Upper California, Roman Catholic Missions, 
Presidios, National Farms, Government, Laws and Judiciary, Indians, 
Domestic Institutions and Customs, &c. ; — embracing the period from the 
discovery of the country in 1542, to the commencement of hostilities be- 
tween the United States and Mexico, in May, 1846. 

Discovery, &c. — The state comprises about one third 
of the territory formerly known as "Upper California;" 
and, hence, its primitive history is identical with the history 
of that country. 

There is a diversity of statement, among Spanish histori- 
ans, respecting the time of the discovery of this vast region, 
and the name of its discoverer. According to Navarelte^ who 
compiled a digest of the early voyages to the coast of Cali- 
fornia, and made elaborate researches among the Spanish 

* A derivative from two Spanish words, caliente fornalla, signifying Hot 
furnace or oven. • . 

1 



2 HISTOllY OF CALIFORNIA. 

archives, the '' Upper Country " Avas discovered by the 
Spanish navigator, Juan Rodriguez Cobrillo, in the year 
1542, ^vho died, during the voyage, in January, 1543 ; 
after which the coast ^vas fui^lher explored by his pilot, 
Bartolome Ferrelo. 

The expedition, commanded by Cobrillo, -was sent out by 
Don Antonio do Mendoza, then viceroy of New Spain, and 
consisted of two vessels, the San Salvador and La Victoria. 
They cleared from the port of Nevidad, in Mexico, on or 
about the 2Tth day of June, in the year 1542, and, in the 
month of October following, made the port now known as 
San Diego, in Upper California. At the time of his death, 
Cobrillo had explored the coast to some distance north of the 
bay of San Francisco ; but he did not discover the ' ' Gate- 
way of Gold." 

No sooner was the crown of Spain informed of the achieve- 
ment of her adventurous navigator, than she waved her 
sceptre over the new land, and adopted measures to confirm 
her sovereignty. It had long been her policy, on the dis- 
covery of new and uncolonized territory in any part of the 
world, to offer to her subjects inducements, which, in those 
days, were deemed princely, to emigrate thither, and estab- 
lish farms, ports and towns. 

One of her plans was to grant four or more square leagues 
of land, in the newly-discovered country, to any subject 
who would covenant, with surety, that, within a fixed time, 
the granted territory should contain at least thirty families, 
each having a house and a certain number of cattle, horses, 
sheep, hogs and fowls, and that the grantee would provide a 
priest, a small church, and certain ornaments for divine 
worship. Another mode was. the foundation of Roman 
Catholic Missions in the country, ostensibly to civilize and 



MISSIONS. — EARLY SETTLEMENTS. 8 

christianize the natives; and, for this purpose, the crown 
endowed the establishment with lands, goods and certain 
munitions for defence. 

Missions. — For a long series of years, applications for 
grants of these lands were required to be made directly to 
the crown ; but California was so remote, and communica- 
tion with the government so tedious, that settlements pro- 
ceeded but slowly, until the year 1754, when power was, 
conferred on the viceroys of New Spain to grant lands and 
establish missions in the Spanish territories in North 
Amc^rica. Tliat Royal Order gave a new impulse to emi- 
gration. California became more thoroughly explored ; 
'wealthy individuals and companies in New Spain took gov- 
ernment grants of land, and settled on them the required 
number of qualified heads of families. 

The Holy Fathers of the Roman church, who had been 
long toiling in Lower California, began to entertain a feeling 
of pious love for the "poor Indian" of the Upper Country, 
and missions were founded, in quick succession, from San 
Diego at the south, to San Raphael at the north. The first 
mission was at the former place, and was founded in the 
year 1769. 

Previous to the year 1833, when the act of the Mexican 
Congress was passed which secularized those foundations, 
twenty-one had been established, as follows, viz. : San Diego, 
San Carlos, San Gabriel, San Solidad, San Luis-Obispo, 
San Antonio, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, San Fran- 
cisco, Santa Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, La Purissima, 
Conception, San Fernando, San Miguel, San Juan Baptis- 
ta, Santa Cruz, San Jose, San Luis Ray, San Raphael 
and Santa Inez. At the time of that enactment, the Mis- 
sions, though not in their highest prosperity, contained a 



4 niSTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

population of about 20.000. consisting of priests, soldiers, 
Indians, Mexicans and native Californians. 

The crown granted lands also to those soldiers of the 
missions who, after a prescribed term of service, were deemed 
meritorious, and desired to settle in the country. These 
soldiers were encouraged to marry Indian wives ; and their 
settlements, in several instances, became Pueblos (towns), 
independent of the missions. 

Los Ano-elos, San Jose and Branciforte are such towns. 
Monterey is also an old, but not an independent town ; and 
it was, for a time, regarded as the capital of California. 

In the year 1833, these towns contained about 4000 in- 
habitants ; and, perhaps, 2000 other settlers were scattered 
over the country. Nearly all these private grants and mis- 
sions were on the western side of the coast-range of moun- 
tains, in the most fertile valleys, and, generally, on or near 
streams of water. 

/^he structures and defences of the several missions were 
built on the same general plan, but were not equally large, 
strong, or numerous ; and more taste was displayed in the 
arrangements of some than of others ; several of them had 
no walls of defence. A description of one Avill suiffice. 

Mission of San Francisco.* — In its palmy days 
this place might have been appropriately called a walled city 
in miniature. It is situated about four miles from the city 
of San Francisco, on a level fertile plain, and surrounded 
by high hills. It was founded in the year 1779, and dedi 
cated to Father San Francisco, as its patron saint ; in honor 
of whom the most spacious bay on the Pacific coast is 
named. The grounds have been long neglected, and many 

♦ St. Francis. 



MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 5 

of the buildings have crumbled to ruins. The walls, which 
enclose about an acre, are composed of unburned bricks, 
made of clay and straw, called adobes.^ These bricks are 
about two feet long, one foot wide, and three inches thick. 
The walls are three feet thick and ten feet high ; and the 
enclosure is quadrangular. A continuous roof extends from 
the top of the wall, on the interior, around the four sides, 
and the space under it is partitioned into a great number of 
rooms, which are occupied as dwelling apartments, barns, 
stables, hay-bays, granaries, store-rooms, dormitories, kitch- 
ens, and all the other necessary repositories of an extensive 
farm. 

(^$he church, always the principal object of attraction, 
occupies one corner of the square, and is a gray, old relic, 
suggestive of the days of romance and monastic rule. It is 
about one hundred feet long, by twenty-five feet wide, and 
twenty feet high, having no dome or cupola. The front is 
adorned with four pillars, resting against the main wall, and 
is plastered and whitewashed. In an aperture left in the 
gable hang three bells, differing in size and figure. These 
bells have undoubtedly been baptized; but the Padre\ did 
not inform his visitors after which of the apostles they were 
named. Our call at the mission was made at mid-day, and 
terminated before evening, so that we did not hear their 
matin or vesper chime; but, as they hung, silent and 
solemn in the rust of years, under the heavily tiled and 
sinking roof, they were suggestive of those earlier and more 
quiet days of ecclesiastic rule, when their morning and even- 
ing peal summoned a long line of simple Indians to a worship, 
which they understood, spiritually, no more than did the 



* Bricks not yet baked. f Father. » 

1^ 



G HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

dumb images around tlie altar. The interior of this church 
was evidently designed for a magnificent display. Its 
enti^ance was through a door, opening into an ante-room, in 
which were reposing, on broken, leaning shelves, many 
sacred images, and the priestly robes of departed ecclesiastics. 
On one shelf lay a large collection of old volumes, which 
had probably reposed, undisturbed for years, until the sac- 
rilegious fingers of popish styled "heretics" brushed the 
cobwebs from their lids. The floor is covered with ancient 
carpeting of many different figures and colors. On each 
side of the altar, which rests under an ancient gilded canopy, 
are images of the apostles as large as life, and on it, sup- 
porting long waxen candles, stood four candlesticks which 
resembled silver ware. A taper was glimmering between 
the latter, which, it was said, is the last of a line of religious 
lights^ expending back to the foundation of the mission. 
Around the unplastered walls are hung unskilfully-exe- 
cuted pictures of Bible scenes and characters ; and in deep 
niches stand roughly-carved images. Around the sides of 
the church are arranged numerous mirrors ; and the mel- 
low rays of the sun, thrown into the chancel, through two 
small windows, fall on the mirrors and the gilded work with 
good effect. Those, with the burning candles, and the priests 
and their attendants, decked in white robes and showy 
canonicals, must have presented a scene well adapted to 
excite the wonder and the fear of simple, timorous, Indians, 
who here statedly met, were catechized, and reprimanded, 
and who here worshipped during a long series of years. 

The Indians who were attached to the mission lived out- 
side the walls, in huts, either standing in a single line or 
arranged in the form of a hollow square. 

Near the walled enclosure are other large adobe houses. 



GOVERNMENT OP THE MISSIONS. 7 

constituting a scliool-room, and soldiers' quarters ; for, in 
the early period of their history, each mission was entitled to 
a guard of two hundred and fifty soldiers — though the 
number provided seldom exceeded five or six. These were 
for its defence against such hostile Indians as could neither 
be persuaded nor compelled to submit to the care and pro- 
tection of the mission. 

Each mission was governed by a Franciscan Friar,* called, 
originally, the Pi^esidente^-\ who was for a time its civil as 
well as religious ruler, and through whom passed all com- 
munications with the supreme government. At a later 
period he was deprived of all political power, and styled a 
Prefect.X 

To each mission was given a tract of land, ten or fifteen 
miles square, consisting of valley and upland, and selected 
as well for grazing as for tillage. The Indians were taught, 
and, if necessary, forced to work on these lands; and, in 
return, they received a maintenance, and instruction in a 
few of the ceremonies of the Roman church. These farms 
were brought under a moderately good state of cultivation ; 
large vineyards and orchards were planted; wheat, rye, 
barley, oats, corn and other vegetables, were grovm; and 
vast herds of cattle, horses, sheep, goats and hogs, were 
raised. Some of the missions owned each from seven thousand 
to one hundred thousand head of horned cattle. They were, 
however, of comparatively little value, there being no de- 
mand for them, and were permitted to range, unrestrained, 
over the vast, unenclosed domains. 

The principal trade was with Chili, Peru and Mexico ; 
and the exports consisted of hides, tallow, and occasionally 

* Brother. f Glovernor. X Prefecto, a civil magistrate. 



8 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

some erain, wine, olives and raisins. About once or twice 
a year a vessel would cast anchor in the solitary harbor of 
San Diego, Monterey, or San Francisco, and take in a cargo 
of those, in exchange for such goods as were used in the 
country. 

The land, in those days, was of little value, compared with 
cattle, horses, kc. A man's wealth was determined by the 
number of his flocks and herds. " Metes and bounds," also, 
were unimportant. 

Presidios and Castillos. — When the towns and settle- 
ments had considerably multiplied in number and population, 
the crown conceived the idea of aiding her treasury from her 
colonies in California, and, as a preparatory step, divided the 
upper territory into four presidencies or military districts, over 
each of which was appointed a Cominandarite.^ His resi- 
dence was called the Presidio, -f and on him was conferred all 
civil and military jurisdiction in his district. The presidencies 
were San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara and San 
Diego. The presidios were built on the plan of the missions, 
having an equal military force, with cannon, small arms 
and other supplies. To each was allotted a farm, called a 
Rancho,X but it was smaller than those belonging to the 
missions, and was very unskilfully cultivated by the soldiers 
and the Indian assistants. Upon these flirms were kept the 
cattle and grain collected as revenue by the government. 

In the vicinity of each presidio was built a Castillo or 
fort. The}^ were intended for harbor defences, and a pro- 
tection to the presidios and missions against the attacks of 
hostile Indians. These defences were all built of stone, 

* Commander. t -A- garrison of soldiers. 

X Rancho, a mess-room ; a set of persons who eat and drink together ; a 
farm. 



PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO. 9 

after one general model, being quadrangular, and situated 
on a high hill, if such a position could be found. Each one 
mounted four or five cannon of small calibre, and was 
manned by six or eight poorly paid and badly treated 
soldiers, who, of course, permitted everything to go to 
ruin. 

The visitor to the presidio of San Francisco, and the 
adjacent fort, will see comparatively little of their original 
outline, arrangement, or appearance. The former is situated 
about four miles west from San Francisco, and two miles 
north from the mission. The fort stands on an eminence by 
the sea-shore, frowning darkly over the waters of the Gold- 
en gate. 

The presidio is on a plain, surrounded by rising grounds, 
which are always covered with a mantle of green grass. 
No tree or shrub has ever diversified the scene around it. 
The old adobe buildings, and a portion of the walls, are 
there ; but the hand of modern refinement has swept away 
the dust and dilapidation which, in the mind of the traveller, 
throw around these ancient structures their highest charm. 
The castle of the Mexican commandante and the fort are 
now occupied by American troops ; and neat, whitewashed, 
picket fences supply the place of a large part of the old 
walls. The presidio is quadrangular, each side being in 
length about one hundred yards. At each angle, on the 
outside, was formerly a hollow bastion as high as the main 
walls, but much thicker, and about fifteen feet square. 
These were embrasured on two sides for cannon. The build- 
ings within the enclosure are situated on three of the sides, 
extending the whole length of one side, and about half the 
length of the other two, are of equal height with the walls, 
and are covered with earthern tile. 



10 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Private Estates. — The estates of individuals, if de- 
voted principally to the rearing of stock, were denominated 
Ranchos ; but if used chiefly as plantations, they were called 
Haciendas.^ The mansion-houses and other buildings, on 
these private farms, were constructed of adobes — lumber, 
except at great cost, not being obtainable in the country — 
and they were, in some instances, surrounded by heavy 
adobe walls, like the presidios and missions. 

The traveller on the Sacramento will have a distant view 
of the estate formerly occupied by Captain John A. Sutter, 
who, as will appear in the sequel, is intimately connected 
with the great discovery of gold in California. This hacien- 
da is situated near the confluence of the Sacramento and 
American rivers, about two miles south of the city of Sacra- 
mento, and one hundred and thirty miles north-easterly from 
San Francisco. In dimensions, outline and general features, 
it resembles the presidio of San Francisco ; and, at a former 
period, it was defended by cannon of small calibre, and by 
Indian soldiers. The mansion-house stands directly before 
the lofty gateway, within the walls, and, in dimensions, is 
about seventy feet by thirty, two stories in height. It is 
adorned with the extra embellishment of a cupola on the 
front gable ; and, although a comparatively recent structure, 
the whole is in a state of decay. This crumbling relic, thus 
prematurely old, is yet suggestive of a time when its pro- 
prietor was, perhaps, the only civilized being within a circuit 
of many leagues around his dwelling ; when his only com- 
panions and aids were the stolid Digger Indians, and he 
surrounded by numerous hostile savages. In those circum- 
stances it would seem that even the boundless valley of the 

* Lands, estates, tenements. 



TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT. 11 

Sacramento and the shining river, spread out in all their 
lonely grandeur before his guarded mansion, the lofty Buttes 
and snow-capped Nevadas in the distance, broad fields of 
waving grain, and countless flocks and herds, could have 
no charms sufficient to compensate for the absence of wife, . 
children, friends, social joys, and native land ! But the 
history of California, and of the world, attests that the wild 
spirit of adventure is often more potent than the strongest 
earthly ties. 

Territorial Government. — The government de- 
I scribed in the preceding pages, necessarily foreshadows that 
I which existed in the territory during a long series of years. 
The mother country, having established her sovereignty, was 
content to let succeeding events develop their own results ; 
and did but little to promote the welfare of this distant 
country, excepting to make grants of land, and to encour- 
' age the establishment of missions. To the viceroys of New 
Spain she committed its immediate oversight and govern- 
ment. These officials gave only occasional attention to the 
subject, leaving the management principally to the holy 
fathers and the commandantes. The private adventurer, 
whose estates were situated beyond the limits of the missions, 
lived uncontrolled — a " monarch of all he surveyed." The 
government of the missions was, practically, that of master 
and slave. 

In the beginning, the communities within them were small, 
consisting severally only of a few padres, soldiers, and other 
Spaniards, who sought protection until they could occupy 
their own lands. By presents and persuasion the fathers 
soon began to exert an influence on the minds of the Indians, 
several hundreds of whom, in a few years, became inmates 
of each of these institutions. The Indians were instructed 



12 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

by the soldiers in the cultivation of the soil and in mechani- 
cal trades. Thejassisted in the manufacture of brick and 
in the construction of the walls and buildings of the mis- 
sions. Their hours of labor were few, and thej were treated 
with great kindness. 

By such means many of the natives soon became strongly 
attached to the padres, and certain hours of the day were 
devoted to holy service, and to instruction in a few of the 
dogmas of Popery. As soon as preparations could be made 
the church services and ceremonies were introduced. The 
gaudy display of the priests, the sacred images, and the 
shining mirrors, reflecting the tawny faces of the natives, 
inspired their veneration, and secured their obedience. 
After a time they were permitted to make journeys into the 
country, or visits to their tribes, to persuade other natives to 
leave their wandering life and become partakers of the bless- 
ings of civilization. 

Thus the missions proceeded for many years, until they 
became firmly established. Indian children grew up within 
the pale of the church, and were attached to it by the preju- 
dices or ties of education. 

After these institutions became strong, a more enlarged 
plan of missionary operations was adopted. The soldiers 
and neophites * were permitted to make expeditions on the 
rivers in launches, and over the mountains and plains, among 
the Indian tribes, to persuade them to join the missions in 
greater numbers. So anxious were the holy fathers for 
the conversion of all those dark pagans that rewards were 
offered to these sub-missionaries to stimulate them in theic 
work of proselyting. It is recorded by La-Perouse, Captain 

* LearuGis or new converts. 



TFMJTORIAL GOVERNMENT. 13 

Beechey, and earlier voyagers, that persuasion was not the 
only means employed to secure that end : but that quarrels 
were excited between neighboring tribes, one side of which 
these instigators would espouse, — conducting to the missions 
the prisoners they captured, and as many of the women and 
children as they could seize. 

The holy fathers, of course, were supposed to know 
nothing of the means which had been used, in their absence, 
to bring these heathen into the fold ; but, having entered, it 
was a mortal sin in the converts to attempt an escape ! If 
kindness would reconcile them, it was bestowed ; but if that 
failed, imprisonment within the walls, whipping, or an iron 
weight fastened to one leg, would, generally, produce sub- 
mission. 

To effect an escape was, for these poor Indians, almost an 
impossibility. The country, for leagues around, was an 
open, shelterless, unwooded region ; and many of the faith- 
ful were scattered over it in their various employments. In 
such a condition of things, the holy fathers and command- 
antes were absolute in their several spheres. The missions 
and presidios, with all their lands, productions, flocks, herds, 
soldiers, and converts, belonged practically to them. 

No material change in the government was made, except- 
ing the appointment of two or three alcaldes in the pueblos, 
until the years 1812 and 1813, to which I have before 
referred, when the territories of California, having consider- 
ably increased in importance, began to attract more attention 
from the crown ; and decrees were passed by the Spanish 
Cortez to facilitate " the reduction of common lands to pri- 
vate ownership," for the encouragement of agriculture, for 
tlie formation of Ayuntamientos^^ and the appointment 

* Town corporations or councils 

9 



14 IIISTOIIY OF CALIFOKNIA. 

of as many alcaldes^ j'egidos,* and sy?idlcos,-\ as the 
public interest requii-ed. The father presidents and com- 
mandantes retained their powers, subject only to a few slight 
restrictions. 

\ Between the year 1821, in which Mexico became inde- 
pendent of Spain, and the year 1837, various laws were 
enacted, making important changes in the government of the 
territories, and better defining the rights of the subject. 
The missionary presidents were confined to merely ecclesi- 
astical rule ; the office of pr eject was created, with limited 
and clearly defined powers, and the missions were secular- 
ized and converted into pueblos. 

In the year 1837 the Congress of Mexico wrought a fun- 
damental change in the government of the department of 
Upper California. A governor, to be appointed by the 
president of the republic ; a departmental legislature, com- 
posed of seven members, to be elected by the people, and 
authorized to pass laws relative to taxes, public education, 
trade, and municipal administration ; with prefects, sub- 
prefects, ayuntamientos, alcaldes, justices of the peace, and 
certain inferior ministerial officers, composed the ncAV gov- 
ernment. 

That law swept away every vestige of the irresponsible 
and undefined power, which had been exercised, by ecclesi- 
astic and civilian, for a long series of gloomy and unthrifty 
years, over the simple inmates of the missions, and defined 
the jurisdiction of every officer. But the days of internal 
commotion had dawned, and Mexico found other objects 
nearer home to engage her attention. The departments 
were neglected, and although Upper California, which for a 

* Alderman or director. f A recorder or collector of tines. 



LAWS AND LEGAL PROCEEDINGS. 15 

season had thrown off the Mexican yoke, was reclaimed to 
her allegiance, yet her public affairs took any direction 
given by the successive triumphs of party at the capitol. 
The adopted system of government was never practically 
organized in the territory, and little change was wrought 
until the occupation of the country by the American army 
in the year 1846. 

Laws and Legal Proceedings. — The presidents of 
the missions were the first administrators of the law in this 
colony. They declared the rules of civil action in all cases, 
and enforced them in their respective jurisdictions according 
to their pleasure. These rules were at first few and simple, 
and proceedings to enforce them were prompt and summary. 
At a later period, when many missions had been founded, 
and had accumulated wealth and local influence, these offi- 
cials were disrobed of their ermine, which wjis conferred on 
the commandantes of the four military districts before men- 
tioned. Each of these districts embraced several missions, 
settlements and pueblos, and the missionary presidents were 
thereafter styled 'prefects ; but in the course of a few 
years a very limited judicial power was again conferred on 
them, with an appeal from their judgments to the com- 
mandante. 

To inspire greater respect, when the commandante sat as 
an appellate court, an unsheathed sword was displayed on 
one side of the judicial seat, and the staff of justice, a silver- 
headed cane, on the other. 

When the pueblos had become more populous, settlements 
were increased in number over a large extent of territory, 
many private ranchos were scattered along the coast, and 
the missions had gathered large numbers of natives, then 



16 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

alcaldes* were appointed, having police and inferior judicial 
power in tlie jmeblos, and settlements containing a specified 
number of inhabitants. Proceedings before these ofiicers, in 
cases involving small amounts and in petty criminal com- 
plaints, were oral and summary, without the right of 
appeal ; but in more important cases the right of appeal 
existed. 

The office of alcalde is very ancient in Spain, but the 
year in which it was introduced into California cannot, with 
certainty, be ascertauied. The number of these officers was 
largely increased by the Spanish Cortez in the year 1812. 
After the year 1821, when Mexico became independent of 
Spain, the republic was divided into states and territories, 
the general congress remodelled the judiciary in the latter, 
retaining the old system with a few unimportant modifications; 
creating courts of record of general jurisdiction, and regu- 
lating the course of legal proceedings. Each territory was 
a department, having a governor and local legislature, and 
the departments were subdivided into judicial districts. 
These tribunals were, 

1st. " Courts of Consiliation." f These were composed 
of the alcaldes and justices of the peace of the city or settle- 
ment. All parties, in cases involving demands under one 
hundred dollars, and in all cases of personal injuries, were 
obliged first to invoke the interposition of this court, and, if 
dissatisfied, they could then, at their own risk of costs and 
charges, appeal to the other proper courts. 

2d. " The Court of First Instance." J This had general 
original jurisdiction in the district in cases which involved 
amounts exceeding one hundred dollars. If a single judge 

* Justice of the peace or judge in a town. 

t La corte de Conciliacion. X ^^ ^"'"'^ "^^ '^ Primcria Inxtancia. 



COURTS. 17 

was in commission he took cognizance of civil and of all 
criminal cases. If two were appointed, these jurisdictions 
were divided, — one judge only, constituting the court. 

3d. '' The Court of Second Instance." * This was an 
appellate tribunal, consisting of as many judges, not exceed- 
ing three, as corresponded with the number of districts in 
the department. These judges were the court of Second In- 
stance for the district which they represented; and they 
entertained appeals from all the judgments of the court of 
Eirst Instance in that district. 

4th. ''The Court of Third Instance."! This was the 
court of last resort, except to the supreme tribunal sitting 
in the city of Mexico.| All the judges of Second Instance 
in the department, or a majority, constituted this territorial 
court. It entertained appeals only in cases involving more 
than four thousand dollars. Its review of cases was gen- 
eral, not being confined to the questions raised below ; but 
it could not review those on which the two inferior courts 
had concurred. 

This law, reorganizing the judiciary of the departments, 
was enacted in the year 1837, and by its provisions the 
alcaldes were restricted, except in a few special cases, to the 
exercise of police powers ; and the office of justice of the 
peace was created with jurisdiction in criminal and police 
cases, and in civil suits involving an amount not exceeding 
one hundred dollars, with the right of appeal to the court 
of First Instance. Justices were appointed in the cities and 
settlements, and in districts embracing a specified number 
of settlers. 

Of the many ministerial officers, writs, and particular 

* La corte de Secunda Instancia. f -^« corte de Tercera Instancia. 

X La cortc de Stiprema. 



18 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

modes of proceeding in the several courts, there is nothing 
here said, because they are merely collateral to the general 
system — a brief description of which is all that is here con- 
templated. 

To give, however, a correct idea of the intelligence of the 
inhabitants at an early day in this new country, it is proper 
to mention that, during many years, the '• silver-headed 
cane " of the prefect or alcalde, was the only summons which 
they issued for the appearance of a party in a legal proceed- 
ing. "Written process, probably, could not have been had ; 
as, in the majority of instances, neither the court, the exec- 
utive officer, nor the parties litigant, could read or write. 
But every son and daughter of the land, white, black, Creole, 
or Indian, knew the " silver-headed cane;" and woe betide 
the culprits to whom it was presented by official, or unoffi- 
cial hands, if they should fail to appear, immediately, before 
" his worship," and confront the accuser ! 

Such is the legal history of Upper California from its 
fii*st settlement to the year 1837, when the general act was 
passed to which allusion has been made. 

But it must not be inferred that, for a long series of 
yeai-s, if, indeed, at any time previous to the passage of that 
act, the law was administered with much regard to forms, or 
to the rights of parties. The only coui-ts, created at any 
period previous to that year, were those of the missionary 
presidents, prefects, alcaldes, and commandantes. 

The limited civilized population of the country, its 
restricted and triflinor commerce, and the io-norance and un- 
settled habits of all classes, Europeans, Creoles, and Indians, 
made other coui'ts unnecessary ; if, indeed, they could have 
been organized and opened for business. 

Durincr the years 1836 — 1839. when internal commo- 



INDIANS. 19 

tions existed in Mexico, the dependency of Upper C<alifornia 
was in a state of revolt, and asserted its independence ; and 
no established government continued a sufficient length of 
time to bring into practice, in that distant territory, the new 
system of law and of legal proceedings. It would be useless, 
if not impossible, to follow this subject through all the vicis- 
situdes of the government, during or after those years. 
Suffice it to say, that the remoteness of this territory from 
the supreme power left it practically independent, without 
the proclamations of Don Alvarado, the master-spirit and 
leader of that revolution ; and that its primitive forms of 
judicial proceedings were, to a great extent, continued, with 
all their imperfections and abuses, until the occupation of 
the territory by the American army, on the seventh day of 
July, 1846. 

Indians. — The general characteristics of the Indians of 
Upper California may be inferred, with much correctness, 
from what has been said respecting the missions. It is very 
certain that the reverend fathers would not have been able, 
with the means they had, and the system they pursued in 
California, to tame the spirit and enslave the bodies of the 
tall, athletic, haughty-souled savages of the more northern 
and eastern country. 

Travellers, who have passed from the Atlantic States across 
the plains, through California, and down to the city of 
Mexico, state that a marked difference of natural character- 
istics exists between the Indians residing on the eastern, and 
those inhabiting the western side of the Rocky Mountains. 
While the former are generally tall, powerful, and bold, the 
latter are short, comparatively feeble, and cowardly. While 
the former are active, the latter are uniformly lazy. 

The natives who live west of the Sierra-Nevadas are, 



20 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

with some exceptions, remarkably filthy, are of a much 
darker color than the surrounding Indians, and are divided 
into almost numberless small tribes — the task of collecting 
and enumerating the names of which would be as difficult as 
it would be useless. On an equal area, the Indians are not 
so numerous within that territory as they are in the more 
northern and eastern regions. This fact is attributed to the 
intercourse of the former with Europeans, and to their 
physical inferiority. They are less warlike than their more 
stalwart neighbors ; but the moral proclivities of the natives 
of this beautiful region are not so variant. All of them are 
thievish, brutal, and deceitful. Marriage is recognized 
among them, but degrees of consanguinity are not respected. 
Polygamy prevails ; and the husband can put away his wife, 
or exchange her for another, at any time. Formerly, the 
males, especially in the southern section of the territory, 
wore no clothing, except a partial covefring in the rainy 
seasons ; while the women appeared in a very scanty petti- 
X^coat made of tide grass. The Alchones and Tularesin the 
south are among the most intelligent and athletic of the 
tribes, and the Diggers of the north and east are probably 
the most stupid, filthy, and depraved. 

It is not sm-prising that the holy fathers easily reduced 
large numbers of such a people into submission. Yet it 
does excite surprise that a succession of tliese fathers, pro- 
fessing to be the messengers of Him who said, " Go ye, 
therefore, and teach all nations," and " lo, I am with you 
always," should have come to these " ends of the earth," 
and, after more than fifty years of labor, even among such 
a people, should have reared no other monuments to their 
memory and their toils, than the crumbling walls of deserted 
churches, and scattered spiritual flocks, more stupid, ener- 



FRUITS OF THE ROMAN MISSIONS. 21 

vated, and vicious, with a few exceptions, than the wild 
Indian who never heard of the gospel ! 

It is true, particiilarlj of the more southern missions, that 
these reverend fathers planted extensive vineyards and 
orchards, cultivated luxuriant gardens, grew large crops, 
and raised immense flocks and herds; and also, that, by 
the labor of the natives, though unskilfully performed, 
the desert was made ''to blossom as the rose;" yet the 
ostensibly higher object of the missions, to civilize and 
christianize those Indians, has signally failed ! 

It is only the exercise of common charity tovfards those 
simple children of nature, to believe that, if they could learn 
to work but indifferently, they could also have learned, if 
they had been faithfully taught, the leading truths of the 
Scriptures, and to feel the force of moral and religious 
obligations. Even those first lessons in christianization 
would have raised the 

" poor Indian, whose untutored mind 



Sees God in clouds or hears him in the wind," 

far above the condition of the converts of these missions in 
their most palmy days. 

Service is there still continued in a few of the old churches ; 
the padres, unambitious and inactive, receive a stipend which 
is, in some way, (^rived from the former estates ; the bells 
chime as in olden times ; and a few feeble, squalid, ragged, 
and ignorant '' Mission Indians," who still linger around 
their former haunts, from the want of sufficient energy to 
leave, and a small number of Mexicans, Creoles,* and mes- 
tizos,! wend their way lazily to the places of worship ; they 

* One born in Spanish America or the W. Indies of European parents. 
f A mongrel breed, as one born of a Europo»r and an Indian. 



22 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

kneel, receive a reprimand, are catechized, dip their fingers 
in the holj water, cross themselves, bow, depart, and soon 
drown the spirit of their teacliings in the more diffusible 
spirit of alcohol ! Thus, generally, they do now ; thus their 
fathers did, and died as wise as their children are, and no 
wiser. 

Domestic Institutions, Customs, &c. — In the pre- 
ceding pages there have necessarily been partially developed 
the domestic habits, customs, and arrangements of the in- 
habitants of Upper California. Reference is here made to 
the European inhabitants who first permanently settled in 
the countiy. and to their descendants, including, also, those 
Indians who were under the tutelage and government of the 
missions. 

These Europeans made their first settlement at the mis- 
sion of San Diego, in latitude 32° north ; and their last, 
and most northern one, at San Raphael, situated on the west- 
ern shore of the bay of San Pablo, in latitude 38° 30' north. 
Nearly all the settlements made in the territory before the 
year 1846 were on the western side of the coast range of 
mountains, and within an area of sixty miles in width, from 
east to west, and of four hundred and fifty miles in length. 
Within these limits resided, in the latter years of the settle- 
ments, about twenty-five thousand inhabitants, who con- 
sisted of Mexicans, Spaniards, mission Indians, and old 
Californians, — the latter being born of parents of whom' 
one, at least, was Eui'opean. 

The missions were situated remotely from each other, and 
in many respects sustained the relations of separate commu- 
nities. Their spiritual aims were in harmony, but their 
temporal interests were not always identical. Rivalry in 
regard to proselytes, occasionally, and in trade, when the 



DOMESTIC INSTITUTIONS. 23 

coast was visited by foreign vessels, agitated these bodies 
politic. Ill-feeling, flowing from those sources, often con- 
tinued until the lapse of time, or, perhaps, a sense of com- 
mon danger arising from Indian animosities, Avhich were 
general against all the missions, compelled the parties to act 
in concert for mutual defence. In such emergencies con- 
tentions were generally forgotten, and harmony was re- 
stored. 

The padres desired to settle the members of their own 
communities on their own domains ; and, as an inducement, 
a lot of land, of a certain number of varas^ square, was 
allotted to every head of a family who would occupy and 
improve it. These lots were set off in the vicinity of the 
mission buildings ; and, in the course of years, a village or 
settlement was thus formed, containing several hundred in- 
habitants, all of whom, excepting such foreigners as obtained 
permission to reside there, belonged to the holy fathers and 
labored on the ecclesiastical estates. 

The children born of such parents w^ere educated in the 
cscuelas f or mission schools ; that is, they were taught to 
pronounce the names of St. Peter and the other apostles in 
an unknoAvn tongue, to repeat a few prayers, kneel, and 
cross themselves. All the employments, except those of the 
field, were pursued within the walls. The unmarried women 
and girls were employed at spinning, weaving, picking and 
carding wool, grinding corn in hand-mills, and other domes- 
tic duties. They occupied at night an exclusive apartment, 
which was carefully locked by the padre, who always kept 
the key. The men and boys were engaged in trying lard 
and tallow, making soap, and as artisans in the workshops 

♦ A Mexican yard, or o'l ^^^ English inches. f Schools. 



24 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

of the l>iiicksmith, carpenter, shoemaker, and tailor. If 
unmarried males and females were caught together at for- 
bidden hours or places, a severe castigation of both trans- 
gressors was sure to follow the detection. 

As very few of the missions provided a physician, the 
padre usually attended to the duties of medical adviser. A 
portion of the time in the morning and at evening was 
devoted to religious duties and ceremonies, at which every 
native was bound to be present under penalty of punish- 
ment. The adults had to listen to the recitation of the 
Latin prayers and services, and the neophytes were cate- 
chized, — the padre not only askmg, but answering, every 
question. All had to bow, kneel, cross themselves, and 
confess. On the Sabbath, one service was observed in the 
church; tne remainder of the day was devoted to amusement 
— the fandango * not unfrequently closing the scene. 

The landed estates, being generally very extensive, could 
not be protected by fences ; and the cattle of dififerent pro- 
prietors wandered unrestrained over vast fields. It was 
important to keep the herds belonging to the several estates 
separate, if possible : and, to distinguish the cattle of each, 
it became the custom of each proprietor, at a very early 
period, to brand his stock with his particular mark. 

So imperious was the necessity, in later years, for the 
observance of this custom, that a law was enacted regulating 
the whole subject, which made it the duty of each proprietor 
to adopt an " estate mark" (liierro f), and to brand it on all 
his stock. A record of these marks was to be kept, and a 
convenient number of officei's, who were styled (^Jiieces del 
Campo)^ " Judges of the Plains," were appointed, having 

* A lively Spanish dance with castanets or balls in the hands. 
t A mark made by burning with a hot iron. 



DOMESTIC INSTITUTIONS. 25 

jurisdiction to enforce the law, and to hear and decide all 
disputes concerning marks and titles to stock. 

It was the duty of a proprietor, on the application of 
another, to i^odeo * his cattle, so that the latter could seai'ch 
among them for his own, which might have joined the herd. 
And, also, bjr the law applicable to the farming districts, 
each owner was required, at certain seasons of the year, to 
rodeo (gather) his stock, that all unmarked animals might 
be branded, and that the cattle might be accustomed to 
return to the estate. It was also made his duty to have a 
ranchero (herdsman) to each prescribed number of cattle, 
whose occupation was to look after the herd, and, if pos- 
sible, to keep it together. 

It is said that the cattle of the estates would become so 
accustomed to the voice of the herdsman, that, upon hearing 
it resound among the hills and over the broad plains, they 
would collect about him and follow him to the corral f of 
the proprietor for the rodeo. 

The corral is located on an extensive plain, is generally 
from two to four hundred feet square, and is formed by 
driving long timbei*s, standing closely together, into the 
earth, and leaving them about ten feet in height. A heavy 
stake is di-iven in the centre, and a large opening is left in 
one side, at which the collected cattle may enter until it is 
filled, when the aperture is closed, except a narrow way at 
which a single animal may be driven out. 

The ?'odeos are made holidays, and friends and acquaint- 
ances attend to assist on the occasion, which is often con- 
cluded with a fandango. 

* The act of going round ; a place where horned cattle are exposed for 
sale. 

t A yard ; closed ground adjoining a house. 

o 

■ O 



26 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Preparatory to the rodeo^ an aged sire of the herd is tied 
to the stake in the centre of the corral. He soon becomes 
uneasy, paws the earth, and bellows in a voice which has 
often been heard by his subjects, and, in that open country, 
resounds' over a large space. The herdsman, and others, 
mounted on horses, traverse the country in different direc- 
tions, and send forth the well-known call, starting off such 
cattle as may be met. In a short time the more distant of 
the herd, hearing the call, and seeing their companions in 
motion, start off on a run in the direction of the corral^ 
making the air hideous with their roar. 

Sometimes more than a week is consumed before all the 
cattle are collected. They stray into the mountains, and 
from long absence become wild. The search and pursuit 
are then toilsome and hazardous ; and many a romantic inci- 
dent and hair-breadth escape occur, which form the subjects 
of a long evening's entertainment after the rodeo is ended. 

The cattle, arriving at the corral^ and seeing the old 
patriarch of the herd in trouble, rush in to his rescue, and 
soon fill it to repletion. It is then closed, and, one at a 
time, those animals on which some operation is to be per- 
formed, are forced out at the narrow gateway. If any 
become furious and attempt to escape, they are ensnared 
witli the lasso ; to accomplish which, several horsemen, pre- 
pared for the occasion, start in full chase, yelhng like 
savages. While one throws the noose over the horns, others 
aim at the feet ; and, when the loop encircles either, a quick 
twitch secures the connection, and the horse stops short and 
braces back to receive the shock of the falling prisoner. 

The well-trained steed seems to know when to prepare 
for the final tumble. The rider retains his seat at the crisis 
by seizing the pommel, which is made high for that purpose. 



SKILFUL IN HORSEMANSHIP. 27 

The lasso is made fast to a ring in the saddle-girth. When 
the victory is gained, the conquered beast is securely bound 
with the lasso. This relation is given in the present tense, 
because the rodeo is still continued in the country. 

The native Californians and Mexicans are classed among 
the most expert horsemen in the Avorld ; and they have been 
called " a nation of horse-killers." They usually ride upon 
a full gallop, and, having large numbers of horses, they do 
not treat them with kindness, or use them with care. In 
the phrase of the country, " they ride the animals down." 

Many stories are circulated of their fetes in horsemanship, 
one of which, as related, would scarcely be believed by the 
most credulous. It is said that many years ago a horseman 
in the pueblo, I think, of San Jose, wagered that, mounted 
on his steed, he could receive with one hand a salver con- 
taining a dozen wine-glasses filled to the brim with wine, 
place it on his head, start on a gallop from his position, ride 
at the same speed fifty rods to a hotel, stop suddenly, and 
hand the salver to a porter, without having spilled any part 
of the liquid. The same tradition asserts that he won the 
stakes. 

If these people were such masters in the use of the horse, 
they certainly were tyros in the management of cows. 
They always permitted the calf to run with the dam, believ- 
ing that necessary for the preservation of the purity of the 
milk. As each proprietor often possessed from one hundred 
to two thousand milch cows, and used but a comparatively 
small quantity of milk in their families, the custom was no 
serious evil. They were not regular in the time of milking, 
but sought the cows whenever a supply was needed. 

Goat's milk was preferred for domestic use, and large 
flocks of these animals were kept by the Californians, and 



28 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

at the missions. In some instances the number owned on 
an estate would be several hundreds. Their milk is rich, 
agreeable to the taste, and very nutritious. 

They had no skill in the manufacture of butter, or of 
cheese; but had substitutes for those luxuries. For the 
latter, sour milk and its cream, stirred together, were formed 
with the hands into small cakes, and dried in the sun ; and 
for the former, sweet milk and cream were coagulated with 
rennet, and stirred until it acquired nearly the consistence 
of butter. Both of those preparations soon became rancid 
and unpalatable. 

Only small portions, comparatively, of the lands of any 
of the estates were devoted to grain, vegetables, or fruits. 
Pasturage, to sustain the numerous flocks and herds, Avas 
the chief object. 

The proprietors, living remote from each other, passed 
their lives in primitive pastoral simplicity ; and the family 
institution and order were strikingly patriarchal. The 
married sons took their spouses to their father's hacienda ; 
and, with their children and their children's children, formed 
parts of the one great family. Apartments were added to 
the parent mansion, from time to time, as the increase of 
generations crowded too closely for the general comfort. 
In some families a common table was spread, and the white- 
haired patriarch of ninety years dispensed its hospitalities to 
so numerous a posterity, seated around it, that his aged 
vision could not reach to the more distant of the group. 

Strong affection is said to be a distinguishing character- 
istic in these ancient family circles. The tottering progeni- 
tor is often employed for many hours in succession, among 
the collected multitude of his descendants, in bestowing 



COMMERCE. 29 

expressions of regard, and receiving from each one some look 
or word of love. 

Since the Mexican revolution, considerable commerce has 
existed with this country in hides, horns, and tallow. The 
principal purchasers are the traders from the United States, 
Mexico, and Chili. Vessels formerly anchored about once 
a year in the harbors of San Francisco, Monterey, and San 
Diego, to receive cargoes of these productions; and they 
brought out for barter such merchandise as the inhabitants 
required. For the last twenty years, however, the returns 
of these vessels have been more frequent, and a portion of 
the sales have been made for cash. 

A few weeks previous to the arrival of the cargoes, agents 
were accustomed to visit the estates and make the purchases. 
To fill these contracts, the cattle were, of course, to be 
slaughtered ; for but few hides were, in ordinary times, ac- 
cumulated, except in special cases. Extensive preparations 
were required for these tasks, and those times were always 
regarded as great occasions. A large number of assistants 
were necessary, and the scene, during the progress of the 
work, was unusually exciting. 

The number of cattle required might vary from a thousand 
to tens of thousands. In some instances they were corraled^ 
and let out by tens or twenties, to be despatched with sledges, 
or by other methods. In later years they were sometimes 
felled, in large numbers, with bullets, while grazing with 
the herd on the plains. The hides, tallow, horns and 
hanks, were preserved ; but the carcasses were left either in 
piles, or scattered over the plains, to dry away and disappear 
under the scorching rays of the sun. 

No precaution is necessary, in this climate, to prevent 
disagreeable consequences from the presence of decomposing 
3=^ 



30 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

animal matter ; it shrinks away without any offensive smell. 
On many ranchos might be seen the bleached bones of 
slaughtered cattle, lying thickly over more than two acres 
of ground. 

The bones of the heads were sometimes used for the con- 
struction of fences around small lots m the vicinity of their 
dwellings. In one place, even at this late day, there re- 
mains such a fence nearly ten rods in length. The heads, 
most of which retained the horns, were set upright, as close- 
ly together as they could be placed, one upon another, in 
tiers to the height of about four feet. The fence was of the 
thickness of two heads ; and against it, on the inside of the 
lot, was thrown up a thin bank of earth. With the horns 
standing out in long regular rows, it was a novel sight. 

Duruig the seasons of slaughter, the ranchos were the 
scene of great animation. Many people, male and female, 
were collected; long tables were spread with the choicest 
dishes which could be obtained; and wine, the production 
often of the country, and other liquors, were furnished with 
a liberality which was manifested in the vivacity and hilarity 
of the evening's amusements. The senoritas* and los 
homhres f mingled in the merry dance, on these occasions, 
indiscriminately with mestizos and Creoles. The clarinet 
and violin discoursed sweet music, while feats of horseman- 
ship, and even races, were enjoyed under the clear sky and 
bright moon which succeed the setting sun in California. 
Within doors, cards were the ever-present attendants, and 

" Kind nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," 

was almost a stranger ; at least, it was not welcome until 
late in the wane of the night. 

* Young ladie?. t The men ; gentlemen. 



COMMERCE. 31 

Before the estates of the church were secularized, the 
missions monopolized the largest part of this trade ; and it 
is reported that, in anticipation of it, the padres, fearing that 
their stock as well as their lands would pass under the con- 
trol of the government, slaughtered immense numbers of 
cattle during the two years immediately preceding the pas- 
sage of the act of secularization, and in the year following, 
before it had gone fully into effect. It is estimated that in 
those three years there were sent from the missions to the 
ports thi-ee hundred thousand hides, with the tallow. 

After being stripped from the carcasses, the hides were 
" stretched fast" on the grass to be cured by the sun ; and, 
after being dried, were packed in long sheds. The tallow 
was placed in cool vaults, to remain until near the time of 
delivery to purchasers. The labor of transporting these 
articles of trade to the ships was light ; — the distance never 
exceeding fifty or sixty miles, and the roads lying over a 
level and charming country. 

The lading of the vessels was sometimes a scene of much 
interest and amusement. They were anchored off in the 
bays, at a distance of one or two miles from the shore, and 
the cargoes were received and discharged by the aid of 
lighters. These were often frail crafts, which would occa- 
sionally "part timbers" and discharge cargo, sailors, and 
other laborers, " short of the ship or shore." The Indian 
and Spanish assistants carried their burthens on their heads ; 
and individuals, who have been present on such occasions, 
state that a large number of hides, piled on each other, and 
weighing several hundred pounds, were borne in that man- 
ner more than half a mile. 

The number of domestic animals belonging to the mis- 
sions in the period of their prosperity, and to the private 



32 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

estates, is almost incredible. It is stated that the mission 
of San Gabriel owned, at one time, more than one hundred 
thousand head of neat cattle, and many thousands of horses, 
sheep, goats, and hogs. On many of the private ranchos 
were from five to twenty thousand head of these domestic 
animals ; and the horses were often so numerous that the 
estates were overburthened, and it became necessary to 
destroy them for the preservation of the grass and cattle. 
Horses, sheep, and hogs, were permitted to run without the 
attention or care of the proprietor. They bore the owner's 
hierro, or hot-iron brand ; and the title could not be suc- 
cessfully contested, even by an actual purchaser, unless at 
the sale of the property, the venta^^ or "sale-mark," was 
also branded upon it. 

After the act of secularization, and the property of the 
missions had come under the control of the public adminis- 
tradorsf (one of whom resided at each mission), the numer- 
ous herds and flocks were very rapidly, and most iniquitous- 
ly reduced. The object of the government, in adopting that 
measure, was declared to be the exemption of the padres 
from temporal service, in order that they might devote them- 
selves exclusively to religious duties. For this purpose, the 
cultivation of the lands, and the care and management of 
the stock, were committed to the administmdors, for the 
joint benefit of the missions, which were to be sustained from 
the income, and of the state, which was entitled to the sur- 
plus. The Californians, however, declare that, although 
the stock disappeared mysteriously, the public treasury 
received little aid from that source of revenue. 

At a still subsequent period, before mentioned, when the 

* A sale, or vending. t Managers. 



MARRIAGES AND BURIALS. 33 

quasi revolution of California was enacted by Juan Baptiste 
Alvarado, its master-spirit, the flocks and herds of the eccle- 
siastical estates were seized for the support of the new gov- 
ernment, without reference to the wants or the rights of the 
church. By these proceedings those establishments were 
reduced to comparative poverty. The padres, unwilling to 
make personal sacrifices of efforts and labor on the lands, 
merely to retain their spiritual flocks, abandoned, in many 
instances, their posts, and the missions declined. The 
Alvarado government expelled the Mexican agents and rep- 
resentatives from the mission estates, but left the padres 
and their Indian followers in the possession of a portion of 
the lands ; and, although the flocks and herds were mostly 
taken, yet much was left, which missionaries, ardently de- 
voted to the welfare of their people, would not have failed 
to make, in some degree, available to their great object. 

Marriages and burials were conducted after the forms of 
the Papal church. For a long number of years, the whole 
European population being papal, all these ceremonies were 
necessarily ordered in obedience to her ritual. 

The cemeteries in which the remains of the departed 
faithful were buried, are generally contiguous to the church. 
That at San Jose contains, perhaps, one quarter of an acre 
of land, and nothing in or around it discloses the purpose 
to which it is appropriated. No person visiting the place 
would mistrust that the dead Catholics of San Jose, during 
a period of fifty years, are ''sleeping their last sleep" with- 
in the narrow confines of that patch of earth. Not a monu- 
ment, not even a hillock, consecrates the ground, or rises to 
forewarn the careless visitor to tread lightly on the dead 
under his feet ! The dead bodies are deposited, one upon 
another, in this ground, to a great depth. 



34 HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. 

On an eminence, at a little distance from the cliurch. is 
another burial-place. Its clingy adobe walls are tumbling 
into ruins. The gate has fallen, and within its enclosure 
are cattle and sheep quietly chewing the cud among the 
weeds and briars. It is about equal in size to the other 
ground, and is similar in all respects. This is the reposito- 
ry of those who resided at the mission, but died out of the 
pale of the church. Unfortunate beings ! They lived in 
sight of the sanctuary, but have been denied the great bless- 
ing of a burial among the multitudes who moulder undis- 
tinguished beneath its shadow ! 

In concluding this brief sketch of the primitive history of 
Upper California, it is proper to be remarked, that, in trav- 
elling over the lovely plains which were the field of these 
Papal missions, and in mingling in the society which has 
been formed under their influence, the mind is involuntarily 
led to compare their fruits with those of a Protestant mission 
on the neighboring islands. The story of the Papal missions 
has been told in the preceding pages ; they are in ruins ! 
and the towns and settlements which they formed were, 
until the conquest by the United States, generally but the 
theatres of congregated ignorance, intemperance, gambling, 
Sabbath profanation, and kindred vices ! But the mission 
at the Sandwich Islands is one of healthful vigor and pros- 
perity. By its instrumentality, wandering Pagan tribes 
have been transformed into a Christian nation, have adopted 
enlightened laws, reared prosperous towns, established 
churches, schools, agriculture, and foreign commerce; and 
have secured the respect and consideration of the civilized 
world. It is less than forty years since this was organized. 
The former were founded by the munificence of a monarch ; 
the latter is the offspring of private benevolence. Surely, 



THE TAPAL MISSIONS. 35 

soaie renovating, elevating principle must have been disre- 
garded by those Papal teachers, which was invoked and 
cherished by the Protestant missionaries. 

It cannot be doubted that the Mexican law which secular- 
ized the estates of these foundations, was a wise measure for 
the country, and a benevolent one for its whole population. 
It has, in late years, been quite fashionable for authors and 
declaimers to speak of the reverend fathers, who conducted 
the Papal missions in California, as men ardently devoted 
to the welfare of their spiritual flocks ; of their labors, 3.s a 
blessing to those Indians ; and to expatiate largely upon the 
improvement of the natives in the arts of civilization, in 
morals and religion, before they were freed from submission 
to the missionaries by the constitution of the Mexican repub- 
lic in 1824, and upon their rapid relapse into barbarism after 
that event. It is true that the constitution gave to Upper 
and Lower California, each, a representative in the national 
Congress, declared certain Indians free citizens, and gave 
them lands ; but no law denied to the missionaries the right, 
by persuasion and kindness, to retain these Indians upon 
the mission lands, or to instruct them in morals, religion, 
and the duties of citizenship ; nor were the missions deprived 
of their landed and personal estates. 

It was not until the year 1833, that the mission estates 
were secularized ; and the government, in that last act, made 
good provision for the support of the missionaries. It 
reserved from its operation the church buildings and a por- 
tion of land, yet the reverend fathers abandoned their 
charges and returned to Spain or Mexico. Indeed, it is 
reported in the vicinity of the missions that, in several in- 
stances, after the enactment of the act of secularization, 
many of the Indians who desired to remain connected with 



36 UISTOKY OF CALIFOR>fIA. 

the missions, -vvoro foiviblj driven away bv the missiomu-ies, 
on the plea that thej could be no longer niiuntained. 

Of the objects of the fathers in sustaining the missions 
"while those institutions enjovetl the pativmage of the gov- 
ernment in the way of veiU'ly supplies, and of their devotion 
to the interests of religion in general, it is not the purjx>se 
of this history particularly to speak. But of the Indians 
as a community, acconling to the testimony of living wit- 
nesses among them and of reliable history, it may be affirmed 
that they were not improveii, either in morals or religion, 
by all the tutelage they received. They were forced, and 
very indifferent laborers in ordinary farming: and were 
never so ele\-iiteil in the a\ile of civilization, as to render the 
decline of the missions an event to be hmientorl on their 
account. 

Occasionally a native of mixcvl blood, and even an Indian, 
assunuxi. in some degive, the habits of civilized life, and 
acquired a moderate property; but the moral prwlivities 
which even these imbibeii. mor^^ than counterbalanced any 
benefits they ivceivcvi ; and it remains true that, as a race, 
the nati>-e Indians, and their descendants K>rn at the mis- 
sions, were moiv degnidcil in spirit, tuid were ivndenxl more 
vicious, than their uiuutoiwl bivthivn of the plains and 
mountains. 



CHAPTER II. 

Brief Statement of the priiioipsl Causes of the War between the United States 
*nd Mexico, Conquest of Upper California, Provisional Government, 
Irregular Proceedings at San Francisco, Territorial Laws and Judicia- 
ry ; — embracing the period between the commencement of hostilities, 
in May. lS4(,i, and the organiration of the State Government in Decem- 
ber. ISoO. 

The events ^vllioll k\i to the declaration of war by Mex- 
ico against the United States, do not. necessai-ily, demand 
a place in the liistorv of California : but as that territory- 
was the scene of a part of the succeeding military operations, 
a brief ivfei*ence to the causes of the Avar may not be im- 
pi\">jxn" in this connection. 

After the establishment of her independence, Mexico dis- 
couraged the settlement of foreigners in the country, and 
opposed their opening trading-houses in her ports. es^X'cially 
in those of Upper California. A lai-ge j.X)rtion of the in- 
habitivnts of that territory Avere unfriendly to the revolution ; 
tliey adhered to the mother country during three or four 
years after the close of hostilities ; and the new government 
was appi*ehensive that the influx of foi*eignei*s might result 
in its independence, or, at least, that they might enable the 
disiiffected successfully to i*esist her soveivignty. Accoixi- 
ingly, in die year 1S28, she oixieivd the seizuiv of several 
American citizens, at San Diego, and detained them as 
prisonei*s for the sjxiee of two yeai-s. till they were i-eleased 
by General Solis. the leader of iin insui'ivction in that terri- 
4 



38 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

tory, in the year 1830, which was designed to effect its 
independence of Mexico. 

This occurrence was followed by other acts, evincing strong 
prejudice on the part of that government against the people 
of the United States. Onerous assessments were imposed 
on Anaerican residents in Mexico; and partial, and very 
unjust, discriminations were made between them and other 
foreigners who frequented her ports for purposes of legiti- 
mate commerce. Out of this state of things originated 
large claims by American citizens against Mexico. These 
the United States ultimately assumed, and their liquidation 
by the former government was made the subject of tedious 
and perplexing negotiation. 

To add to these difficulties, Commodore Jones, the com- 
mander of the squadron of the United States in the Pacific, 
in October, 1842, received intelligence, which induced his 
belief that jNIexico had declared war against his country ; he 
accordingly appeared in the harbor of Monterey, with two 
vessels of war, and demanded the surrender of all forts, 
military defences, and munitions. The summons was 
obeyed, and the flag of the United States was raised over 
the custom-house; but, within two days, the American 
commander learned that the relations existing between the 
two governments were still peaceful, and he withdrew his 
forces to his vessels in the harbor. Texas, once a depend- 
ency of Mexico, achieving her independence, and, subse- 
quently, becoming an integral part of the United States, 
also tended materially to widen the breach between the two 
nations. And, finally, a military movement on the part of 
the United States, in March, 1816, when the forces under 
General Taylor took a position on the eastern shore of the 
Rio Grande river, resulted in the declaration of war. 



WAR BETWEEN THE UNITE1> STATES AND MEXICO. 89 

Mexico claimed the territory occupied by General Taylor, 
and treated the advance of the American army as an inva- 
sion of her sovereignty. The President of the United 
States, on the 13th of May, 1846, issued his proclamation, 
declaring the existence of hostile relations betAveen the two 
countries ; and instructions were forwarded to Commodore 
Sloat, then the commander of the Pacific squadron, to 
occupy the ports and territory of Upper California. 

That order was promptly executed. On the 7th day of 
July, Captain Mervine was deputed to demand the surrender 
of Monterey, which being refused, he landed with a force 
of two hundred and fifty men, and hoisted the American 
flag on the custom-house. The commodore demanded of the 
Mexican governor the surrender of the whole country ; but, 
the latter refusing compliance, orders were sent to Captain 
Montgomery, then in command of the Portsmouth in the 
bay of San Francisco, to take possession of that port. Ac- 
cordingly, on the 9th of July, 1846, the flag of the Union 
was raised on the plaza at Yerba Buena. Many of the 
citizens enrolled their names on the lists of the American 
army, and, within the space of twelve days, Sutter's Fort, 
situated near the present city of Sacramento, Bodega, lying 
a few miles north of San Francisco on the coast, with Sono- 
ma and San Jose in the interior, were in the possession of 
the Americans. The inhabitants of these settlements were 
willing that the Americans should take possession of the 
country. 

About the middle of July, Commodore Sloat resigned the 
command of the Pacific squadron to Commodore Stockton ; 
and a " California Battalion of Mounted Riflemen " was 
organized, and placed under the command of Major Fremont. 
This force soon embarked at Monterey, in the sloop of war 



40 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Cyane, Commaiider Dupont, for the port of San Diego; 
and Commodore Stockton sailed in the Congress for the port 
of San Pedro. The city of San Diego was occupied by the 
forces under Major Fremont; and, August 13, 1846, Com- 
modore Stockton entered the city of Los Angeles,* the seat 
of the territorial government, having been previously joined 
by Major Fremont and about eighty riflemen. The Mexi- 
can forces fled before the approach of the Americans — many 
of their officers being made prisoners of war. And thus 
was completed, within the space of two months, and by about 
three hundred and sixty men, a large proportion of whom 
were common sailors, the bloodless conquest of California ! 

In September of the same year Commodore Stockton, 
with his forces, returned to San Francisco, leaving at Los 
Angeles only a guard of about thirty men, under the com- 
mand of Captain Gillespie. The Californians, availing 
themselves of the favorable opportunity afibrded by the with- 
drawal of the American ai^my {!), assembled to the number 
of three or four hundred, overpowered the guard, and retook 
possession of the city — Captain Gillespie and his force 
retiring on board a sloop of war, and returning to Monterey. 
This brilliant achievement stimulated the enemy in other 
places, and in a few days their flag was flying over nearly 
the whole country south of Monterey ! 

As soon as preparation could be made, the frigate Savan- 
nah was despatched with reinforcements to the relief of Los 
Ang-eles. Lieutenant Talbot, who had been left with nine 
men in possession of Santa Barbara, maintained his ground, 
and bid defiance 'to the veterans of California ! On the 
arrival of the Savannah at the bay of San Pedro, her crew, 

* The city of the Angels. 



CONQUEST OF UPPER CALIFORNIA. 41 

consisting of three hundred men, took up their line of march 
for the city of Los Angeles. When they were about half- 
way to their place of destination, they encountered the 
enemy drawn up in the order of battle, and were repulsed ; 
five of their number being killed and six wounded. 

Commodore Stockton returned in the Congress to the 
scene of his former triumphs, ' ' to fight his battles over 
again," and met with a much more serious opposition from 
the enemy. With the forces under his command, and six 
cannon, he marched for the " city of the Angels." At the 
rancho of Sepulvidad, he encountered a large force of Cali- 
fornians. A battle ensued and the enemy was routed — 
one hundred of their number being killed on the field, and 
one hundred taken prisoners. 

Preparations were immediately made for general military 
operations to regain possession of the conquered country ; 
and various encounters occurred at different points, from 
time to time, until the 9th of January, 1847, when the final 
battle was fought. 

After a long and fatiguing march over the plains and 
mountains of the interior. General Kearney had arrived at 
San Diego. In the latter part of December the Americans 
left that port for Los Angeles, numbering about six hundred 
men, composed of detachments from the Portsmouth, Cyane, 
Savannah, and Congress. General Kearney with a portion 
of his men, and Captain Gillespie with sixty mounted rifle- 
men, accompanied the expedition. 

On the 8th of January the Americans met the Califor- 
nians at a strong and well-chosen position, on the banks of 
the San Gabriel river, about twenty miles from Los Angeles. 
The enemy consisted of about six hundred mounted men, 
having four pieces of artillery. The Americans were obliged 
4* 



42 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

to wade the river, and drag their heavy guns, exposed to the 
constant fire of the Mexicans ; but, having gained the oppo- 
site shore, they made a furious charge and drove the enemy 
from their strong-hold. 

On the 9th of January, Commodore Stockton, on his 
march across the plains of Mesa, encountered the Califor- 
nians, who were concealed in a deep gorge. When the 
Americans approached the place of their concealment the 
enemy opened on them a heavy fire, and charged in front 
and rear. But " Greek met Greek," and the " tug of war" 
was short ; the Californians were routed at all points, and 
they scattered like a flock of terrified sheep. 

On the morning after this battle, the Americans reentered 
the capital of California, the city of grapes and of the an- 
gels. General Flores, acting as governor and commandant- 
general of the Mexican forces, abandoned his troops and fled; 
and thus was the conquest completed. 

Commodore Stockton, in virtue of his command, was the 
civil governor of the conquered territory, and established the 
seat of government at Monterey. In August, 1846, he 
imposed a tarifi" of duties of fifteen percentum on imported 
foreign goods, and a tonnage duty of fifty cents per ton on 
foreign vessels. 

/" The subsequent government of this territory was regu- 

/ lated by instructions from the President of the United 

I States to the officers in command of the army of occupation ; 

I and was based on the principles of law which recognize the 

x^onquest of sovereignty. A governor was appointed for the 

term of four years, unless he should be sooner removed by 

the president ; and he was constituted commander-in-chief 

of the army, and superintendent of Indian affairs. He had 

power to pardon and to reprieve ; made all appointments to 



PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. 43 

office within tlie territory, and must approve of all laws, 
passed by the territorial legislature, before they could be- 
come efiectual. A secretary of the territory was commis- 
sioned, to preserve the laws of the legislative council and a 
record of the proceedings of the governor. The legislative 
council consisted of seven members — at first appointed by 
the governor ; but their successors were to be elected by the 
people. Their term of office was two years. The territorial 
laws existing at the time of the conquest, and the officers 
then in commission, were to be continued until changes 
should be made by the governor and council. 

During the existence of this territorial government, sev- 
eral functionaries conducted successively the public affairs 
of the country; viz.. Commodore Sloat, under whose com- 
mand possession was first taken, Commodore Stockton, 
General Kearney, Colonel Fremont, Colonel Mason, and 
General Riley. The latter continued in office until the 
admission of California as one of the states of the Union, 
and the election and qualification of a governor under the 
constitution adopted by the state. 

The multitudes of people, beginning to congregate at dif- 
ferent points in the territory, were unacquainted with the 
Mexican laws, and had no convenient facilities to learn the 
rules by which their conduct, and their business relations 
with each other, should be regulated. Many of the laws 
which they did acquire knowledge of they became dissatis- 
fied with ; and a large portion of the people believed that 
the conquest abolished all the laws and government previ- 
ously existing there, and restored to the people the right 
to form a new system for themselves in their sovereign 
capacity. 

Acting on this principle, while Congress was wrangling 



44 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

on the question of slavery in reference to the newlj-acquired 
territories, and delaying the passage of any law to establish 
a better government, the people of San Francisco, Sacra- 
mento, and Sonoma, called an election, chose members to 
form a legislature, and clothed them with power to pass laws 
for the government of their respective districts. These legis- 
latures were organized, and they enacted many statutes to 
abolish existing Mexican laws, created public oflBces, ap- 
pointed officers, and imposed taxes. 

These proceedings were clearly revolutionary, and Gov- 
ernor Riley issued his proclamation, setting forth the exist- 
ing laws and requiring obedience to them. The people, 
after a time, complied, dissolved theii* legislatures, and 
anxiously awaited the action of Congress. But when they 
learned that this body had adjourned without making any 
provision for their relief, they took immediate measures to 
form a state government; the civil governor not only 
approving, but leading in the proceedings. Those measures, 
and the events which followed, will be considered in a sub- 
sequent chapter. 

Tlie conquest was soon followed by fundamental changes 
in the territorial law and its administration. Emigration 
thither pressed closely on the march of the army. Many 
of the first emigrants were American citizens, and they 
brought with them their partiality for the principles of law 
and order in which they had been educated. In a few 
months Upper California contained a large, intelligent, and 
powerful population. 

After several changes in the office of civil governor, 
General Riley, April 13, 1849, was invested with that com- 
mission. He subsequently, in connection with the legisla- 
tive council, changed, in many respects, the Mexican laws 



TERRITORIAL LAWS AND JUDICIARY. 45 

of the territory, and conformed their administration more to 
the habits and customs of the new possessors of the country. 
Laws were enacted to regulate the occupancy of real estate, 
the conveyance of titles, to confirm in their commissions 
those judicial officers who were acting under Mexican 
appointments, and to prescribe the modes of legal proceed- 
ings. He established the offices of alcalde, justice of the 
peace, prefect, and the courts of First and Second Instance, 
as under the Mexican system : and. in the month of June, 
1S49, he issued a proclamation inviting the people to nom- 
inate, by ballot, candidates to be appointed by him, judges 
of those courts. The request was responded to, the appoint- 
ments were made, and those courts were immediately, and 
for the first time, organized in San Francisco and other 
towns. A large amount of litigation originated in them, 
but in a few months they were supei-seded by the judiciary 
established under the constitution of the State of Califor- 
nia, which was adopted in November, 1849. 

During the three and a half years' continuance of the ter- 
ritorial or provisional government, great contrariety of 
opinion prevailed among the citizens of the territory re- 
specting many of the acts and regulations of several of the 
civil governors, their powers, and the validity of their offi- 
cial appointments. In some courts, the principles of the 
common law were applied : in others, those of the civil law ; 
and yet in othei-s, the Mexican law. Hence, during the 
provisional government, the inhabitants of the territory had, 
in fact, no generally accepted system of law or of legal pro- 
ceedings ; and, as a consecpience, the titles to large tracts 
of real estate are involved in doubt, and will, for many 
years, be a fruitful source of expensive and vexatious liti- 
gation. 



40 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

The treaty of peace between tlie United State? and Mexi- 
co was exchanged and ratified, at the city of Queretaro. 
on the 30th day of May. 1S4S : and. by its terms. Upper 
California became, with the consent of the laner govern- 
ment, an integral part of the territory of the American 
Union. 







CHAPTEE 


in. 










Civil »zi P: 
Clir:i:e. S.:il 
C-Tiriry. i-s- 


. Agr 

TcAT 


I'iTisi::!;, Ci:ie5. P.i-riers. 


Mi 


ITLtiizJ 


. P:r:i:i: 


lie 



The Congress of the United States haTing adjourned, as 
before sratoi. ^thout piOTiding a territorial gOTemment for 
California, the people, wixh great nnanimitv. directed their 
afttoitioQ to the (HvaniiatMHi of a State £?DTermnent. Thev 
resolTed to help then^elves. The ciTil governor. Geneiul 
Eile V, approved of their res«Dlution, and issued his proclama- 
tioQ- dated at Monterey. June Sd. 1S49. reconnnending the 
election of delegates to a ccnvention for the drafting of a 
constitaticHi. / The time appointed for the election iras the 
first day of Angost, 1S49; and the convention was to 
assemble at Mcmterey m the fiist daj of Septonber follow- 
ing. The number oi delegates named was finij-ei^t, and 
thev were to be seit from that number of districts or settle- 
ments in the state. 

^The elections were held, and the del^ates asembled in 
«mvention in accoidance with the governor's proclamaticm^ 
Br. Robert Semple. of the district of Sonoma, was chosen 
its presidait and William G. Marcv, Esq.. its secretaiy. 
After uniting in a declaration of ri^ts. embodyiog the great 
principles of lepublican goYenmient, manj of the provisioiis 
of the propDeed constitntion were w?irmly dkcuse*! : but 



48 HISTORY OF CALIFOKXIA. 

the whole was finally adopted, and signed bj every member, 
on the 1-th day of October. After this, there were the 
usual formal and complimentary proceedings, and the con- 
vention dissolved. The booming of cannon, and other 
demonstrations, testified to the joy of all parties. 

In its general features, the constitution resembles that of 
the state of ^ew York ; but it contains several special pro- 
visions, deemed necessary because of the condition and 
geographical position of the state. It prohibits slavery. It 
grants to all ibreii:;nei-s, who become bona fide residents of 
the state, all the rights — in respect to the possession, enjoy- 
ment, and inheritance of propeity — of native-born citizens. 
There is under it no imprisonment for debt, except in cases 
of fraud, nor for militia fines in time of peace. The resi- 
dence of a white male citizen of the United States, six 
months next preceding any election, in the state, and thirty 
days in the county or district in which he claims to exercise 
the fi-anchise, qualifies him to vote at any election. Colored 
persons cannot become electoi-s : but the Legislature may, 
by special laws, admit Indians, and their descendants, to 
that right. The sessions of the Legislature commence annu- 
ally on the fii'st Monday of January : and elections are held 
on the Tuesday following the first Monday of November in 
each year. Senators are chosen for two years, and membei-s 
of the Assembly for one year. The nimiber of members of 
the Assembly cannot be less than thirty, nor more than 
eiirhtv : nor the number of senatoi^s less than one third, nor 
more than one half, of that of the members of Assembly. Xo 
pei-son who shall be convicted of the embezzlement or defal- 
cation of the public fimds. can thereafter hold office in the 
state. The Legislature cannot grant charters for banking 
purposes, nor can the bills or pajxn- issued by imy bank be 



STATE OFFICERS. 49 

circulated in the state as money. The governor and lieu- 
tenant-governor are elected for two yeai*s : they must have 
attained the age of twenty-five yeai-s, and have been citizens 
of the United States and of this State for two years next 
preceding their election. The secretary of the state is ap- 
pointed by the governor and senate ; the comptroller, treas- 
urer, attorney-general; and surveyor-general, are elected by 
the people, and their terms of office, and eligibility, are the 
same as those of the governor and lieutenant-governor. 

The judicial power of the state is vested in a Supreme 
Court, and ui District, County, and Justices' Courts. The 
Supreme Court is the high coui*t of appeals in all cases in- 
volving an amount exceeding two hundred dollai^s ; and con- 
sists of a chief justice and two associate justices, — any two 
of whom constitute a court. The District Courts have each 
a single iudcre : and have original iurisdiction. in law and 
equity, of all actions which involve an amount exceeding 
two hundred dollars, and in all cases of felony. The County 
Courts have jurisdiction in appeals from Justices' Courts, and 
in certain special proceedings : and the county judge, with 
two justices, constitutes a Court of Sessions for the trial of 
such criminal cases as the Legislature may prescribe. Jus- 
tices of the peace have jurisdiction in personal action, Avhere 
the amount in controversy does not exceed two hundred 
dollai-s: and in actions concerninof real estate, where the 
subject matter arises out of •* mining claims."' The justices 
of the Supreme Court, and the district judges, respectively, 
hold their office for a term of six years : and the county 
judges and justices of the peace, for a term of four yeai-s. 

The constitution limits the power of the Legislature, in the 
creation of state debts, to a sum which, with any previous 
liabilities, shall not exceed .9300,000 : and it provides for 
5 



50 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

the accumulation of a school fund, for a system of common 
schools and for a university. 

The seat of government was declared to be the Puebla de 
San Jose. The salary of the governor was fixed at $10,000 ; 
that of the lieutenant-governor, at double the pay of a state 
senator; and the pay of members of the Legislature, at sixteen 
dollars per day for attendance, and the same sum for every 
twenty miles of travel to the place of holding the sessions 
of the Legislature. 

The foregoing statement embraces the principal provisions 
of that instrument, excepting the prescribed boundaries of 
the new state. 

The first general election was appointed to be held on the 
13th day of November, 1849, to elect a governor and lieu- 
tenant-governor, members of the Legislature, two representa- 
tives in Congress, and to obtain the expression of the people 
on the adoption of the proposed constitution. 

The election was held at the time appointed, and the con- 
stitution was ratified by an almost unanimous vote. On the 
12th day of December the executive of the existing territo- 
rial government made proclamation of that fact, agreeably 
to the requirements of the constitution, and from that day 
it became effectual as the fundamental law of California. 

As the result of the election, Peter H. Burnett was chosen 
governor, John McDugal lieutenant-governor, and Georgo 
W. Wright and Edward Gilbert representatives in Congress. 
Agreeably to the constitution the first Legislature convened, 
and its session continued until the 22d of April, 1850. The 
several state officers were chosen, and Colonel John C. Fre- 
mont and William M. Gwin, Esq., were elected senators in 
Congress. Certified copies of the constitution were furnished 



BOUNDARIES. 51 

to the senators and representatives, with instructions to lay 
the same before Congress, and request that California be 
admitted a state of the American Union. Thus, every 
branch of the civil government of the state was organized, 
and nothing remained to complete her sovereignty but the 
consent of the powers at Washington. 

A long and angry discussion, connected with the provis- 
ion of the state constitution prohibiting the introduction of 
slavery, delayed the final action of Congress on the question 
of admission until nearly the close of its session ; but, final- 
ly, on the 9th day of September, 1850, the law was passed, 
and California became one of the states of the American 
Uniony^ 

The State of California is bounded as follows : — 

" Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d 
degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude 
west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 
120th degree of west longitude, until it intersects the 39th 
degree of north latitude ; thence running in a straight line 
in a south-easterly direction to the river Colorado, at a point 
where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude ; thence 
down the middle of the channel of said river, to the bound- 
ary line between the United States and Mexico, as estab- 
lished by the treaty of May 30th, 1848 ; thence running 
west and along said boundary line to the Pacific Ocean, and 
extending therein three English miles ; thence running in a 
north-westerly direction, and following the direction of the 
Pacific coast to the 4 2d degree of north latitude ; thence on 
the line of said 4 2d degree of north latitude to the place of 
beginning. Also, all the islands, harbors, and bays, along 
and adjacent to the Pacific coast." 

In more general terms, the state is bounded on the north 



52 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

by the territory of Oregon ; on the east, by those of Utah 
and New Mexico ; on the south, by Lower California ; and 
on the west by the Pacific Ocean. In geographical position 
it lies diagonally in a north-westerly direction from its south- 
ern boundary, between 32° 20' and 42° of north latitude, 
and 37° 20' and 47° 40' of west longitude from Washington. 
Measured as it lies, in a straight line between the centres 
of its northern and southern boundaries, it is about 720 
statute miles in length by 240 in breadth, and contains 
173,800 square miles of territory; embracing the whole 
eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and all the 
islands adjacent to that part of the Pacific coast. The islands 
included are, Santa Catalina, Santa Clemente, Santa Bar- 
bara, San Nicholas. St. Thomas, Santa Cruz, St. Barnard, 
and Santa Rosa. They are principally uninhabited, but 
several of them are stocked with cattle, sheep, and goats. 

Civil Divisions and Population. — This state is 
divided into thii-ty-eight counties, and these are, at present, 
the principal civil divisions which have been made of its ter- 
ritory, — the sparseness of the population not requiring the 
formation of towns except in the vicinity of the cities and 
villages. The following are the counties, with their popu- 
lation, as they are stated in the State Census of the year 
1852, — given in connection, for the convenience of refer- 
ence, and to exhibit the relative population of the different 
sections of the state. Since that year the new counties of 
San Bernardino, Alameda, Siskiyou, Sierra, and Humboldt, 
have been formed, by the division of the old counties of 
Trinity, Santa Clara, Shasta, Yuba, and San Diego. 

County of Butte, 8.572 inhabitants. 

'' " Calaveras, .... 20,192 " 

" " Colusi 620 " 



POPULATION. 



53 



County of Contra Costa, 
El Dorado, 
Kalmatli, . 
Los Angeles, 
Marin, . . 
Mariposa, . 
Mendocino, 
Monterey, . 
Napa, . . 
Nevada, 
Placer, . . 
Sacramento, 
San Diego, 
San Joaquin, 
San Francisco, 
San Luis Obispo 
Santa Clara, 
Santa Cruz, 
Santa Barbara 
Shasta, . 
Sierra, . 
Siskiyou, 
Solano, 
Sonoma, 
Sutter, . 
Trinity, 
Tuolumne 
Tulare, 
Yolo, . 
Yuba, . 

Total population of the State 



2,745 inhabitants. 
40,000 
530 

7,831 
1,036 



8,969 

416 

2,728 

2,116 

21,365 

10,784 

12,589 

2,932 

5,029 

36,151 

984 

6,664 

1,219 

2,131 

4,050 

4,855 

2,240 

2,835 

2,337 

1,207 

1,754 

17,657 

8,575 

1,307 

22,005 

in the fall of the 



year 1852, ; • • • 264,435 



^^'^ 



54 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

This footing would doubtless be swelled by the emigration 
of the year 1853, to 300,000. 

In this enumeration are included 22,877 Indians, scat- 
tered over the state, and denominated in the census " do- 
mesticated Indians." By this, it is to be understood that 
they are the remnants and descendants of the mission In- 
dians. They are feeble, indolent, and extremely filthy. A 
very few of them will, occasionally, perform some kinds of 
manual labor ; but they prefer to loiter and beg around the 
villages, or to wander over the country and hunt and fish — 
of little use as a population. They are to be found chiefly 
in the counties of Calaveras, Los Angeles, Mariposa. Napa, 
Nevada, San Diego, Tulare, and San Bernardino. 

The number of foreigners included in this census is 
65,244 ; of whom, 18.854 were in the city of San Francisco. 
Of these 9,923 were returned as Chinese : but as this pecu- 
liar people are not distinguished from other foreigners in the 
returns from most of the counties, and, as it is well known 
that they are very generally distributed over the populated 
portions of the state, they probably number, at least, 15,000. 
The census enumerates 2,120 negroes and mulatto.es; and 
92,901 Americans over twenty-one years of age. Add- 
ing one fifth for the number of Americans under that ase, 
and the aggregate white American population in the state 
would about equal that of foreigners and of native Califor- 
nians. It is, therefore, strongly American, notwithstanding 
it was so lately an alien territory, and, since the acquisition 
by the United States, has ever been open to the free emi- 
gration of all the world. 

The native Californians and Indians having been already 
described, the foreigners will be more particularly noticed 
in a future chapter. 



POPULATION. 55 

By the aid of these census returns, an inquiry, often 
made, may be answered with sufficient accuracy for general 
purposes, viz. , the number of the miners. If, from the general 
aggregate as stated in that document, we deduct the popu- 
lation of the cities and villages, the number of the Indians 
less 1000, the colored persons less 200, and 12,000 for the 
agriculturists, their families and workmen, the remainder 
will represent very nearly the force employed in the mines. 
By a computation made on this basis, the number, at the 
beginning of the year 1853, will be found to have been 
about 138,634. The census does not give all the items 
necessary to determine this question ; but careful inquiry 
was made in various parts of the state respecting the pop- 
ulation in those cities, villages, and other settlements, where 
they are not specified in those returns ; and the deduction of 
Indians and colored persons is made, because it is repre- 
sented by many of the miners, that only a few of those 
classes work in the mines. The deduction of 12,000 for 
the farming interest is ample, on the estimates contained in 
the census. The whole number of acres actually cultivated 
in the state, is only 110,748 ; and, allowing the family of 
each farmer to consist of five persons, the calculation will 
give 2400 families, each having only about forty-five acres 
under cultivation. It is probable that every farmer in the 
state has more than twice that quantity of cultivated land ; 
and, if so, the number which should be deducted in the cal- 
culation will be reduced to 6000, unless the families are 
taken at less than five persons — the usual number allowed 
in such computations. In round numbers, therefore, the 
mining class may be reasonably estimated at 140,000. 



[>Q HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 



The coast of California is lined by an almost uninter- 
rupted succession of hills and lofty mountains, between 
which and the shore there is generally a strip of flat, fertile 
land, varying in width from three to twenty miles. These 
mountains are less elevated in the southern than in the 
northern part of the state ; where, in numerous places, they 
frown darkly over the ocean, which rolls its angry waves 
against their rocky base. In the south, many of these hills 
and mountains are covered with wild grass and oats, which, 
in the dry season, are of a deep yellow color, and present 
an arid and dreary prospect ; but, in the wxt season, they 
are clothed with a fresh mantle of beautiful green. Other 
mountains are adorned, especially on their sides, with an 
evergreen, called, in the country, the dwarf, or shrub-oak. 
A few of them, particularly on their western slopes, sus- 
tain pines, firs, and red-woods of great size, while others 
are only barren piles of rocks. In the northern portion of 
the state these mountains are more generally covered with 
trees of majestic growth ; but many of them are sterile 
elevations, capped with eternal snows. 

The bays and harbors of California, commencing their 
enumeration at the north, are the following, namely : 

Pelican Bay, near the boundary line of the state, and 
into which Smith's River empties. 

Port St. George and Trinity Bay, are yet unim- 
portant, in reference to commerce. 

Humboldt Bay is large and important, the third in rela- 
tive size in the state. It bears the name of Baron Hum- 
boldt, the celebrated early traveller in New Spain. It must 



BAYS AND HARBORS. 57 

ultimately be the scene of considerable commerce. Several 
towns are already springing up on its shores, namely, 
Union Town, Eureka and Humboldt. It has not been sur- 
veyed and examined with such accuracy as to furnish 
materials for a particular description. 

Bodega Bay was discovered in the year 1775, by Bodega, 
a Spanish navigator, who named it in honor of himself. In 
the year 1815, a Russian trading company established a 
post here, and occupied it until the year 1840, when it was 
purchased by Captain Sutter, the pioneer Californian miner. 
He paid for the fixtures, cattle, artillery, &c., by annual 
instalments in grain. 

Sir Francis Drake's Bay is a small bay, discovered 
by this celebrated English navigator in the year 1579. 

The Bay of San Francisco is a magnificent harbor, 
and will be described in a future chapter, in connection 
with the city of San Francisco. 

The Bay of Monterey is an open roadstead, situated 
about seventy miles south from San Francisco. It was 
named in honor of Count Monterey. The name also liter- 
ally signifies king of the forest; and it is supposed that 
it should be attributed to the circumstance that the hills 
around the bay are covered with majestic pines. It is 
exposed to the sweep of the north-west winds and storms, 
but Point Pinos protects it from those which come from 
the south and south-west. 

Bay de los Esteros. This bay is situated in north 
latitude 35° 30', in the county of San Luis Obispo. In the 
same county are the bays of San Luis Obispo, San Simeon 
and Moro. 

Bay of Santa Barbara. This is a broad sheet of 
water, having a smooth, hard beach of nearly twenty miles 



58 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

in circuit. It is surrounded by towering hills : but it can- 
not be made a safe anchorage for shipping, the south-west 
winds having a clean sweep across it. 

Bay OF Sax Pedro. This is about one hundred and 
thirty miles south from Santa Barbara, and is only an 
anchorage^ having no settlement on its shores. The near- 
est town is Los Angeles, twenty-five miles to the north. 
It is large and commodious, afibrding a safe anchorage and 
landing. 

Sax Juax. This is a small bay, about thirty miles 
south from San Pedi*o. Its entrance is made dangerous by 
rocks about a mile distant from it. 

Sax Diego. This is the largest, safest, and most com- 
modious bay on the coast of the state, excepting that of 
San Francisco. It is defended from winds and storms by 
a ridge of land about ten miles long, which, rising between 
it and the ocean, is an effectual barrier. The entnince is 
narrow, but deep. This bay is situated three miles north 
of the southern limits of the state, and will ultimately be 
to its southern, what San Francisco is to its northern inland 
trade. The country, washed by the rivers Colorado and 
Gila, is destined to be densely settled, and its productions 
will sustain a large and prosperous trade in cattle, hides, 
tallow, cereal grains, wines and fruits. There is good 
anchorage in this harbor, in from five to ten fathoms water. 

Sax Pablo Bay. This is a small bay, about ten miles 
in length by six in breadth, lying north of the bay of San 
Francisco. It is entered from the ocean through the same 
strait. Another strait, about seven miles in length, con- 
nects it with the bay of San Francisco. It is entered from 
the west between Point San Pedi-o on the north, and point 
San Pablo on the south : and the little island of Violate 



CAPES AND BLUFrS. 59 

rises bright and green in the strait. Several writers have 
included both bays under the name of San Francisco ; but 
San Pablo is geographically connected with the latter, just 
as the latter is connected with the main ocean, and if it is 
proper to distinguish the bay of San Francisco from the 
ocean by a difterent name, it seems equally proper to dis- 
tinguish between the two bays. 

Suisrx Bay. This is a small body of water, situated 
seyen miles east of San Pablo, and is connected with it by 
the strait of Carquinez. It is about six miles long by three 
miles wide. 

The bays of San Pablo and Suisun. with their connect- 
ing straits, may with propriety be considered as portions 
of the river Sacramento, as amplifications of its chaimel, 
through which its waters are discharged into the bay of 
San Francisco. But. according to the common understand- 
ing, the mouth of that river is at the head of the several 
small islands or allu^-ial formations which lie in what may 
be called the extension of Suisun Bay. and about fifty-five 
miles north-east from the city of San Francisco. It would 
be, however, more mitm-al to regard the position of those 
islands as in the channel of the river. 

CAPES AXD BLUFFS. 

There are. on this coast, several capes and bluffs, which 
it is proper to notice : of which the following, commencing 
at the north, are the principal. 

PoiXT St. George. This cliff" forms the northern arm 
of Port St. Ge<3rge. It is a high pile of rocks destitute of 
vegetation. 

Gold Bluff. This has been so named within the last 
three years, from a report, at one time current, that the 



60 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

sands on the beach at its base were rich in the precious 
metals. Gold was found there, but not in sufl5cient abun- 
dance to justify the '' gold story." 

Cape Mexdocixo. This is the most western point of 
land in the state, and is situated about one hundi-ed and 
eighty miles north from the city of San Francisco. It is a 
lofty snow-covered bluff, beetling over the ocean at about 
the 48th degree of north latitude. 

PoiXT DE LOS Reyes. This is the extremity of a long 
line of rocks, extending far out into the ocean in a southern 
direction, and forming with its sweep the northern arm of 
Sir Francis Drake's Bay. It is situated about thirty miles 
north of the city of San Francisco. 

PoiXTS BoxETA and de los Lodos are the northern 
and southern capes which form the entrance to the Golden 
Gate. 

Point Nueff, or And Nueva, is a very peculiar, iso- 
lated pile of dark rocks, surrounded by water, being separated 
from the main land by a narrow channel. It is about thirty 
rods in length by four in breadth, and about seventy-five 
feet high in the centre ; thence sloping in every direction 
doAvn to the water. The surf lashes its base with great 
violence. It is situated about equi-distant between San 
Francisco and Monterey. 

Point Pinos is the long and narrow southern arm of 
the bay of Monterey. The shore is low, but the land in the 
interior rises into very high hills, covered with stately pines. 

Point Conception is a long, high neck of land, which 
makes out into the sea in a southern direction, and forms 
the extreme south-western limit of the county of Santa 
Barbara. It is about ten miles south of the mission of La 
Purissima. 



MOUNTAINS. 61 



MOUNTAINS. 



As a general feature, the face of the country is broken 
and rough, being a succession of lofty mountains and hills, 
interspersed with a comparatively small territory of plains 
or valleys. The principal mountains are in ranges ; but 
the spurs which extend out from them are so numerous, 
and so many isolated lofty elevations rise abruptly from the 
plains, that, at a single view, especially in the northern 
half of the state, they present an apparent collection of 
mountains without order ; embosoming sufficient low lands 
to mark distinctly their lines of separation. And yet the 
state is so large, that these valleys and plains are numerous, 
and a few of them are of great extent. 

The principal ranges are the Sierra * Nevada f or Snow 
MountainsV tl^e Coast Range, and a range of mountains com- 
mencing at the northern boundary of the state, and extend- 
ing diagonally across it, in a south-westerly direction, from 
the Sierra Nevadas to the Coast Range, which it meets at 
Mount Linn, near the 42d degree of north latitude. Mount 
Shasta, fourteen thousand four hundred feet in perpendicular 
height above the sea, is in this range, and has so given its 
name to it that it is now generally called the Shasta Range. 

The Sierra Nevadas, and also the Coast Range, are 
a continuation of the mountains which form the promontory 
of Lower California. They extend northwardly, from the 
mouth of the river Colorado, where they are comparatively 
low, being mere hills with wide valleys between them, until 
they near the eastern boundary of the state, at about the 

* A saw. A ridgo of mountains and craggy rocks. 
t A heavy fall of snow. 

6 



62 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

89th degree of north hititude — from whence their coui-se 
is nearly due north into Oregon. Both slopes of this 
range are within the boundaries of the state. Many long 
spurs branch out, at unequal distances, from either side, 
like ribs from the spinal column of the human frame, extend- 
ing towards the south-west and south-east from the central 
range. The Sierra Nevadas rise to an average elevation of 
fifteen thousand feet above the sea, and many of the peaks 
are covered with perpetual snow. Some of these elevations 
are vast piles of naked primitive rocks ; others are covered 
with barren sands ; and others, particularly among the spurs, 
are composed of burnt rocks, their natural strata having 
been heaved out of their places, and containing lava, and 
other evidences of volcanic action ; while the sides of the 
mountains, and the chasms between, are strowrt with debris 
and arid sands. Among the peaks of this range, and of its 
collateral ridges, are Mount St. Joseph, in Shasta county, 
in latitude 40° 50' north, and 12,000 feet in height. In 
Butte county are Table Mountain, near the Feather river ; 
8000 feet high; Saddle Peak, 7200 feet high; and the 
Buttes, near the south fork of the Feather river, 9000 feet 
high. The Three Buttes, a mountain with three towering 
shafts, rising, "solitary and alone," to the height of 4000 
feet, in the Sacramento valley, are in the same county, and 
are visible from a great distance to the voyager on the river. 
In the northern part of the same county is Mount Hood, 
with its apex glistening in the regions of perpetual frost. 

The Coast Range. These mountains are generally 
inferior to the Sierra Nevadas, yet they send up a few peaks 
far beyond the region of clouds and storm. They are, prop- 
erly, a continuation of the range which commences at Cape 
St. Lucas ; but are low. for some distance, in the south of 



MOFNTAINS. 6B= 

the state. They extend longitudinally, through the state, 
at about an average distance of sixty miles from the ocean, 
having a wide valley on each side. At the northern limit 
of the state, it spreads out into a numerous collection of 
broken, craggy, and, in some instances, snow-clad piles. 

In its geological formation, this range resembles the Sierra 
Nevada and its spurs. Cape Mendocino is connected with 
the Coast Range, and, by some geographers, is considered as 
its termination. 

Mount San Bernardino, in this chain of mountains, 
is one of the highest elevations in the state. It is in the 
county of San Bernardino, in lat. 34° north, and 17.000 feet 
above the level of the ocean, in perpendicular height. 

San Gorgonio, situated about twenty miles to the south- 
east of the former, is scarcely less aspiring. 

Kalmatii Mountain, between Kalmath and Salmon 
rivers, and Mount Prospect, near the Kalmath river, each 
rise to the height of about 5000 feet, and are covered with 
snow during- eight or nine months of the year. 

Table Mountain, in the county of Marin, rises 2569 
feet above the ocean. 

Mount Diablo, in the county of Contra Costa, seems to 
stand isolated from its companions, but is properly one of 
the Coast Range. As the traveller proceeds up the Sacra- 
mento river this mountain is seen in the distance on his 
right, about three miles from the shore. It rises several 
thousand feet above the plain, and is covered to its summit 
with wild oats. When the writer passed it, it was night ; the 
ripened crop had been fired by the Indians, and was all in a 
blaze. The surface covered by the fire, on both mountain 
and plain, was immense; and the smoke, burnished and 
lighted by the lurid flame, rolled from its lofty top, slowly 



64 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. , 

away to the south, and shone in striking contrast with the 
deep, dark mantle, which night had spread over all the sur- 
rounding scene. 

Excepting Bernardino and Mount Linn, these mountains 
have an elevation ranging from 500 to 5000 feet. In the 
northern section of the county of Contra Costa, and the 
southern portion of the counties of Napa and Solano, this 
range, excepting an occasional high elevation, dwindles to 
inconsiderable hills, between which the melting snows are 
discharged by a single outlet. For a distance of four 
hundred miles in length, streams from the western slope of 
the Sierra Nevadas, from the eastern side of the Coast Range, 
and from their spurs, are discharged by the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin rivers into the bay of San Francisco. 

The Santa Barbara Range, which terminates at Point 
Pinos, on the south-western side of the bay of Monterey, is 
a part of the line of hills and mountains which skirt the 
whole shore of the ocean. 

The high lands on the north end of the promontory of 
San Francisco are called the Sa?i Bruno Mountains. 

The Sierra Morino, or Brown Mountains, commence 
on the shore of the bay, about ten miles south of the city of 
San Francisco, and, extending down the coast, unite with a 
spur of the Coast Range in the county of Santa Clara. That 
spur, rising about two thousand feet, protects the beautiful 
valley of San Jose from the rough winds of the coast, and 
contributes materially to the renowned luxuriance of its 
vegetation, and to the salubrity of its climate. On the east- 
ern side of the bay is the Bolbona ridge of hills, an emanation 
from the Coast Range. About twenty miles below the city 
of San Francisco it begins to recede from the bay eastward- 
ly, and terminates in the main range; thus forming the 



FORESTS AND FOREST TREES. 65 

north-eastern limit of the valley. At the head of Napa 
valley, in Napa county, rises Mount St. Helen, looking 
gloomily do\Yn upon the surrounding plains and hills from 
an elevation of 4000 feet. 

FORESTS AND FOREST TREES. 

The mountains and hills of this state abound in large 
forests of stately timber. The timber grows mostly on the 
slopes and in the gorges ; the summits, especially of the 
high mountains, being either barren sand and rocks, or cov- 
ered with a stinted growth of coarse grass. Very little 
under, or young growth, is found in any part of the state. 
A view of the forests conveys an impression that these 
mighty trees, now towering to the skies, are the only growth 
the soil has sustained, or will ever produce. The trees have 
a parched and sun-burnt appearance, and, if the expression 
may be used, look like Nature in old age and decay. 

Pine, spruce, white oak, live oak, red-wood, some maple, 
ash, beech, and laurel, are found in all sections of the state ; 
but timber is relatively more abundant in its northern and 
middle, than in its southern division; and on the lower 
hills and slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, than on the Coast 
Range. 

The Red-Wood is the most remarkable tree of the state. 
In color it very nearly resembles the red cedar of the At- 
lantic states, and, in solidity and grain, is like the pine. It 
grows to a great size. Specimens of them are often found 
which measure from fifteen to twenty feet in diameter. 'A 
giant growth of other species is not uncommon. 

Arbor Vit^. The specimen of the Arbor Vit(B, 
which, until the last summer, had stood at least three 
6^ 



(JG HISTOTIY OF CALIFORNIA. 

thousand years, at the head waters of the Stiinishius and 
San Antoine rivei-s, in the central eastern section of the 
state, among the Siernx Nevadas, measured 310 feet in 
height, and had lost at least fifteen feet of its top. It was 
at the ground, thirty-one feet in diameter and ninety-two feet 
in circumference ! One hundred men could conveniently 
stand erect within a section of its bark taken off at its base. 
Lumbering will for many yeai-s be extensively pui-sued 
in the state. The number of saw-mills now in opemtion, 
propelled by water or steam, is about one hundred : and a 
capital of §800,000 is employed in this branch of industry. 

MINES, MINERALS, MINERAL WATERS, QUARRIES, ETC., ETC. 

In the county of Marin, which lines north of San Fran- 
cisco, there have been found, in its mountains and hills, 
silver, copper, iron, and quicksilver ores, cinnabiu', steatite 
or soapstone, asphaltum, mai-ble, and limestone. 

In the county of Santa Clara, lying contiguous to the bay 
of San Francisco on the south, is the largest mine of quick- 
silver ever discovered. It will be particularly noticed in a 
subsequent chapter, in connection with a description of the 
gold mines. 

In Napa county, situated north of Pablo bay and about 
forty miles from San Francisco, is another rich mine of 
quicksilver, and also a hot sulphur spring. The latter is 
about seventy miles north from Napa city. The waters of 
this spring gush up fi-om the side of the mountain to the 
height of ten or fifteen feet, and heated gases are emitted 
with a loud hissing noise. This county also contains several 
other mineral springs which have not been an^ilyzed, and 
tlieir qualities are unknown. 



07 

In Yuba county, in the north-eastern part of the state, is 
a rich quicksilver mine, Avhich is reported to yield an ounce 
of quicksilver to a pound of rock. 

In Butte county, adjoining Yuba, are deposits of quick 
silver, platina, lead, and silver. A large bed of chromate 
of iron has been discovered near Nevada, and iron ore is 
also found in the vicinity of Feather river. 

In Contra Costa county, lying contiguous to the bay of 
San Francisco, are several hot springs, a sulphur, and a 
tepid saline spring. In this county a bed of gypsum and 
a quarry of freestone have been discovered. 

In Los Angeles county, lying in the southern portion of 
the state, is a spring which covers two acres of ground, and 
from which pitch or asphaltum boils up in large quantities, 
and it is used for coating the roofs of buildings. The In- 
dians call this spring Brca. On San Bernardino rancho, 
which is owned by the Mormons, is a hot spring. Lime- 
stone, and other building rock, are abundant in this county. 

In Mariposa county, lying in the central eastern section 
of the state, are quarries of excellent marble ; they are near 
the north fork of the Mercede river. In tliis county, also, 
are many mineral springs, but their characteristics have not 
been ascertained. 

In Monterey county, silver ore has been discovered ; and 
at the upper end of Salinas valley many sulphur springs 
exist. 

Silver, copper, and iron ores, it is believed, will be found 
in considerable quantities in the county of San Luis Obispo. 
A deposit of bituminous coal has been found in this county, 
on the ranch of Don Jose de Jesus Pico, near the small bay 
of San Simon. This county is situated on the coast in the 
south-western section of the state. 



68 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Near the village of Santa Barbara, in the county of that 
name, on the coast, in the south-western part of the state, 
is a hot sulphur spring, the waters of which are at the tem- 
perature of 100° (Fahrenheit), as they issue from the rock. 
These warm and hot springs were, in former times, the 
grand panacea of the natives. In the " salinas " of this 
county salt is gathered in abundance during the months of 
August and September. Two asphaltum springs have been 
lately found within a few miles of the village of Santa Bar- 
bara; and the ocean throws up bituminous substances on 
the whole of this part of the coast. 

In Shasta county, sixty miles north of Shasta city, and 
near the Sacramento river, is a mineral spring, the predom- 
inant ingredient of which is soda. This county, situated in 
the north-eastern section of the state, also contains twelve 
salt springs, which are very large, and their waters are very 
strongly impregnated. 

Sierra county, adjoining the north-eastern boundary of 
the state, abounds in excellent limestone. 

In Solano county, bordering on Suison bay, and near 
Yallejo, is an extensive soda spring ; and in the neighbor- 
hood of Benicia, the present seat of the state government, is 
a strongly impregnated sulphur spring. ' 

» Bituminous coal has been obtained in the hills of the 
promontory of San Francisco ; but several gentlemen, who 
have directed some inquiries to the subject, express the opin- 
ion that it is yet, at least, doubtful whether iron ores, or 
any species of mineral coal, will be found in the state in 
sufficient quantities for general use. San Francisco offers a 
good market for these important articles ; but no person has 
evinced sufficient confidence that extensive mines of either 
exist in the localities where the deposits, or specimens, have 



VOLCANOS. — MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 69 

been found, to embark in the enterprise, or to incur the 
expense of making an extensive and thorough examination. 

VoLCANOS. Although the mountains of this state are 
unquestionably of volcanic origin, yet nature seems to have 
very generally extinguished her fires on the surface when 
she finished her work of upheaving the earth in this region. 
Only two volcanos are reported with sufficient certainty to 
justify the statement that they exist. One of these is near 
the farm of Captain Thomas Robbins, in the county of 
Santa Barbara, and the other near the head- waters of Jack- 
son's Creek, in the eastern part of the county of Calaveras. 

Mountain Scenery. A person unaccustomed to moun- 
tain scenery of vast extent, will be very likely to experi- 
ence a feeling of disappointment on a first view of these 
sublimely grand elevations. The Sierra Nevada range is 
about fifty miles broad, and commences in a series of foot 
hills, which are succeeded by higher and yet higlier sum- 
mits, until, in the interior of the range, they rise in wild 
and craggy peaks far into the regions of perpetual frost and 
snow. The chain being so broad, the loftiest shafts are a 
long distance from the plain, and a correct idea of their 
altitude is only obtained by ascending them. 

In journeying up the mountains, the way at first rises 
gently. After a few miles the country begins to assume 
an uneven and undulating character, and occasional bould- 
ers of rock appear. As the journey is continued, the oaks 
begin to diminish in number and size ; an occasional pine 
or hemlock appears, and the path becomes more stony. In 
some places, the surface is level for a considerable distance, 
and then comes a steep ascent of fifteen or twenty rods in 
length. The rocks noAV begin to congregate, are larger and 
are covered with moss ; the wind blows more strongly and 



70 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

is cooler, and vegetation is stinted and sparse. Thus trav- 
ellers proceed for many hours, beguiled hj the novelties of 
the scenery, without very sensibly realizing that they are 
toiling up thousands of feet into the skies. Occasionally 
the way will lie directly over an elevation of two or three 
thousand feet of very steep ascent. 

Up these acclivities the traveller must climb, or ride on 
little stubborn mules, zig-zag, to the top ; and perhaps he 
must descend half as far as he has travelled, on the oppo- 
site side of some of the elevations, before he can resume 
his ascent. It may be that the gorges between these lesser 
mountains, or their sides, are strown with debris, or frag- 
ments of broken rocks, which have also to be surmounted. 
At length a summit is attained, wliich appears to have no 
more lofty companion ; and the weary wayfarers pause and 
look back over the path they have trod. Now, for the first 
time, they become sensible of what they have accomplished. 
Around them is nothing but the arching heavens. Away 
in the smoky distance ahead, are other towering mountains, 
but they look like mole-hills ; behind and below no object 
is visible but revolving clouds; and, as far as the vision 
can reach, these, lighted by the sun, appear like a rolling 
silvery ocean. Sometimes they see the lightnings flash, and 
hear the thunder roll far down beneath. Surrounded by 
such a scene, the beholder fully realizes his immense eleva- 
tion, and feels that he is, 



while in, above the world." 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 



These lands constitute the agricultural territory of Cali- 
fornia ; and upon their quantity and adaptation to successful 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 



71 



cultivation, depends the question whether it can ever attain 
to the distinction of a first-class agricultural state. There 
are conflicting opinions on this subject. Ever since Cali- 
fornia began to attract the attention of the public, the size 
of its principal valleys, the eflect of its peculiar climate on 
the production of crops, the feasibility and relative expense 
of the necessary drainage of some portions and of the indis- 
pensable irrigation of others, have been subjects of much 
interest ; and so many conflicting reports have been circu- 
lated, that no satisfactory opinion could be formed. For 
these reasons the writer has omitted no opportunity to obtain 
on those questions the most reliable information. 

On nearly all of these lands are at least a few settlers ; 
among whom are persons of intelligence and practical expe- 
rience, who are familiar with the region in which they respec- 
tively reside. To such sources application has been made, 
and the communications received have been compared with 
such statements in the census as afibrd any aid to the inquiry. 
It is therefore believed that the following table presents as 
correct an estimate of the number of square miles of the 
valley and arable hill-lands in the state, as can be made 
without a practical survey. The measurements given are 
the average of the varying statements of difierent persons 
on the subject. 



Sacramento Valley, 200 miles long and 60 wide, 19,000 



San Joaquin 


do. 


186 


Napa . 


do. 


20 


Suscol . 


do. 


8 


Green . 


do. 


6 


Suisun . 


. 


6 


Ulatta . 


. 


8 





60 ' 


' 11,160 




12 ' 


240 




3 ' 


24 




1 ' 


6 




6 ' 


36 




1 ' 


8 



T2 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Contra Costa, . . 40 miles long and 40 wide, 1,600 
San Jose, ... 50 " '' 40 '' 2,000 

Kalmath, ... 30 '' '' 25 '' 750 

Trinity, .... 50 " " 40 " 2,000 

" Monte " bottom lands, 20 " " 10 '' 200 

Salinas Valleys, . 18 " " 12 " 216 

Carmel, .... 15 ^' '^ 3 '' 45 

San Juan, . . . 70 '' " 9 '' 630 

17 missions with their presides, not embraced in 

the above, allow 325 square miles to each, . . 5,525 
Lands in the south, imperfectly explored, lying east 
of Sierra Nevadas, in the counties of San Diego, 
San Bernardino and Mariposa. This tract is tri- 
angular, but, reduced to a parallelogram, it may 

be stated at 240 miles long by 90, 19,200 

Small valleys lying among the mountains and along 
the streams in the mining region and on the 
coast, 2,000 

Total, 57,670 
Deductions. 
For Tale lands in Sacramento valley, an area 50 

by 15 miles, 750 

Clear Lake, in that valley, 30 by 5, 150 

Short" spurs of mountains in the same, not arable, . 150 
Tule lands in San Joaquin valley 60 by 20, . . . 1,200 
Tulare Lake, in that valley, 40 by 15, .... 600 
Spurs of barren mountains in same valley, . . . 400 
Deduct for barren mountain lands, great desert, 
and Tule land in the southern unfrequented ter- 
ritory, 12,000 

Total of waste lands to be deducted, 15,250 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 73 

This leaves, for the number of square miles of tillable 
land, forty-two thousand four hundred and twenty, or about 
one fourth of the whole territory of the state. 

The census returns give the dimensions of many of these 
valleys, and, in making the preceding estimates of quantity, 
the deductions for waste lands are stated at the lowest 
amount which the facts will justify. 

The surface of the two principal valleys, for a distance 
ranging between ten and thirty miles east and west from 
the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, is very level ; 
but further back it becomes uneven, and this inequality 
increases until the valleys proper terminate in the more 
elevated, broken and barren foot hills of the two great 
mountain ranges. The soil of the first several series of 
hills into which the level surface rises, is the same with that 
of the plains, and equally productive ; but beyond these, it 
begins to be stony, and, although portions may be cultivated, 
yet it is not desirable for farming purposes. 

As a general thing, the San Joaquin valley is inferior, 
in several respects, to the Sacramento. It contains more 
wet land in the level portions, and, especially in the south- 
ern section, is more frequently interspersed with tracts of 
hard pan gravel and saline soil ; indeed, the mineral springs, 
which abound in the southern parts of the state, are, it is 
said, detrimental to vegetation in many places. Asphal- 
tum is contained in large tracts, and muriate of soda, like 
frost, is spread over others, both of which ar<^ injurious to 
farming. A much larger portion of the San Joaquin than 
of the Sacramento valley lies too low to admit of drainage, 
and the opinion of competent judges is that its cultivation 
will always be attended with more unavoidable expense 
than the lands further north or south. 
7 



74* HISTORY OF CALIFOIINIA. 

In the counties of Solano. Yolo, and Colnsi, are large 
tide swamps or lakes, which lie along the Sacramento river 
in the higher lands, and axe pi*obably irreclaimable. 

Both of these valleys are subject to. at least, one inun- 
dation yearly, which submerges them for a distance of from 
five to twenty miles from the rivers. The Sacramento val- 
ley, also, is subject to floods at diflerent times in the year, 
depending on the condition of the snows on the Sierra 
Kevadas. If during the winter they are covered very low 
down on their sides, the copious rains, which sometimes fall 
on them dui'ing the long summers, will dissolve tliis snow 
in immense ipantities : the swollen torrents then come tum- 
bling into the streams which empty into the Sacramento, 
and, in a very few days, swell it far above its banks. This 
event may happen at any season. But when the snows do 
not lall so far below the region of frost as to be dissolved 
by those rains, casual freshets do not occur. The difter- 
ence between the two rivei'S, in this respect, arises from the 
fact that the northern section of the state is more moun- 
tainous than the southern, and the tributaries of the Sacra- 
mento are larger and fiir more nimierous than those of the 
San Joaquin. 

These large valleys contain but few forest trees, except 
along the margins of the rivers ; but nearer the foot hills 
of the mountains, on either side, the country becomes gen- 
tly rolling, and aged oaks are scattered sparsely over the 
whole territory. These oaks are unlike those of the 
Atlantic states. They are a low tree. The trunk seldom 
exceeds ten feet in height, is often four feet in diameter, 
is very gnarly, and is coated with a substance resembling 
lime. The branches are immense, reaching in some instan- 
ces forty or fifty feet, their dark green foliage shading a 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 75 

very large surface of ground. In general appearance 
and outline, they resemble the butternut tree. Winding 
among them are -ways or roads Avhich chance, or the con- 
venience of the traveller, has trailed over the plains in 
every direction. These oaks appear to be the only trees 
the soil has ever sustained, and there is no young growth. 

These "openings," the plains and the adjacent hills, are 
in some places endless seas of waving wild oats, and in 
others of wild grass. These oats, it is said, are not indige- 
nous to this country. They were introduced upon the mis- 
sion lands, by the Catholic missionaries from Mexico, eighty 
years ago, and from thence have spread over all the plains and 
hills along the coast, and back nearly to the Nevada Range. 
They grow to the height of about two feet on the hills, but 
reach three or four, in favorable situations, on the plains. 

The trees, which skirt the streams in the Sacramento 
valley, consist generally of oak, ash, and a species of but- 
tonwood ; and they form a belt, varying in width from ten 
to twenty rods. In many places they are completely cov- 
ered with luxuriant wild grape vines, which, in the season 
of fruit, hang gracefully and invitingly down over the limpid 
waters. The shores of the San Joaquin are skirted with 
the Cottonwood, a species of poplar, and an occasional willow. 

On these plains are found immense mounds of earth, 
which present evidences of their great antiquity. It is 
supposed that they were thrown up, by the Indians, for ob- 
servatories, from which to survey the floods, or as places of 
resort for safety when the plains became suddenly inundated, 
and the rano-inji; hunters were cauo;ht far in the interior. 

The tide^ which has been mentioned, is a species of rush, 
that is very rank, growing on overflowed lands. Its stalk 
is over twelve feet high, and from one to two inches in 



76 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

diameter at the root. Its color is a very deep green, ap- 
proaching to black, and when spread over a large space, 
its dark tops, bending in the wind, remind the beholder of 
the gloomy waves of the fabulous river of death. 

The mission lands and their manner of cultivation have 
been described in a former chapter. As the first settle- 
ments of the country were at the south, the lands of that 
section of the state have been longer tilled and more ex- 
tensively improved than those of the central and northern 
sections ; but it is not believed that they are superior in 
any respect. 

The soil of all these valley lands is similar in its gen- 
eral characteristics. It is alluvial, composed of sand, clay and 
decayed vegetable matter. The general opinion is that all 
these bottoms were, at a former period, the beds of lakes and 
streams, and that the soil is the deposit of earth which 
was washed from the mountains through a succession of 
ages. On this hypothesis, those lakes or streams must 
have been very deep, and must have covered many of the 
hills which skirt the plains, whose surftice soil is simi- 
lar to that of the low lands. 

That portion of the state wliich lies south and east of 
the San Joaquin valley has a better soil, for agricultural 
purposes, than the valley itself ; and persons who have ex- 
amined the subject entertain the opinion that the soil of 
this valley is of volcanic formation, and contains in many 
places elements which are unflivorable to successful hus- 
bandry. 

Among the mountains in the "gold regions " are many 
beautiful valleys, which are abundantly watered, and are 
very productive. These vary, in extent, from one quarter 
of a mile to one or two miles square. On many of them 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 77 

may be seen the white canvas cottage of some adventurous 
rancher^ who is here living "solitary and alone," engaged 
in the production of vegetables and cereal grain, to enable 
him to draw large profits from the miners' harvest of golden 
grain. 

In journeying on the rivers and over the extensive val- 
leys and rolling lands, which compose the agricultural por- 
tions of the state, travellers will see but little fencing, and 
but few frame dwellings, except in one or two localities 
and in the vicinity of cities and large settlements. As 
they pass along, at the distance of five or ten miles from 
each other, they will find small board, or log shanties, or 
canvas cabins, but seldom a barn or an out-house. The ran- 
cher^s wife and children may appear in the door, or the hut 
may be vacant, the lone tenant being "away to his work." 
These habitations are generally built near the river's side, 
or under a spreading tree ; or, if the place admit of it, at 
the base of a lofty mountain, whose rugged sides may serve 
to screen it from the rays of the burning sun. The farm- 
ing utensils are, in most cases, exposed to the weather, 
which, fortunately, during the long dry season of seven 
months, is not as detrimental as in a more changeable 
climate. 

Although the country has been thus occupied but four 
years, it looks, in all respects, as old as Massachusetts or 
Connecticut. In many sections no trees, except along the 
rivers, or in the "oak openings," no stumps, no corduroy 
roads nor other characteristics of a newly-settled region, 
are visible ; but luxuriant crops of grain and vegetables 
are flourishing in apparently long-cultivated fields. 

When the rancher selected his ranch^ there needed no 
clearing of huge forest trees ; but he could at once turn up 
7^ 



78 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

the furrows and deposit the seed in a soil which nature, 
ages ago, had enriched with an exhaustless compost twenty 
feet deep ! 

As often as a crop matures, it is harvested ; and, in the 
central and southern divisions of the state, another may be 
immediately sown or planted. And thus the succession may 
be continued through the circle of the year. 

The grounds around the solitary's cabin may be adorned 
with large stacks of wild oats and grass, which he has cured, 
and which he intends to sell at thirty or sixty dollars per 
ton, in the neighboring city. Perhaps upon a spot cleared 
for the purpose, are hundreds of bushels of threshed grain 
and ears of corn. These, in the dry season, require no 
shelter; for storms will not descend to injure them for 
many months. 

Irrigation is required, particularly in the south, on a 
large portion of the plains, during the long dry seasons, to 
produce a full yield. "When this is needed, the rancho be- 
ing favorably located, small sluices are dug, leading from the 
fountain or stream in various directions through the fields 
to all the low places, which thus become ponds. These 
fertilize the soil for a long distance around ; and from them 
other sluices are laid, conducting the water to still more 
remote parts. In this manner extensive fields of rich allu- 
vion are made to yield luxuriant crops, even though the 
winds which sweep over them be robbed of all theii* stores 
of moisture, far back among the snows of the mountain 
ranges. If no stream or fountain be near, the rancher 
must resort to artesian, or other wells, and this is often a 
very expensive means of supply. 

The most improved and beautiful agricultural portions of 
the state are in the country contiguous to the city of Sac- 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 79 

ramento, and the valley of San Jose. The visitor can conceive 
of no better cultivated farms than those which surround 
that city. They are inclosed with substantial board or 
wire fences, are provided with spacious barns and other ap- 
propriate out-houses, and, in many instances, with large 
and commodious dwellings. No stranger, on riding over 
about four miles square of that region at this day, and 
judging from its appearance, would believe the statement 
that, four years ago. only a solitary fort, or Mexican out- 
post, was to be seen where now stands a city containing ten 
thousand inhabitants, and surrounded by an agricultural 
region, apparently as long tilled and as highly cultivated as 
any portion of New England. 

The valley of San Jose is situated on the east and south 
of the bay of San Francisco, and is about fifty miles in 
length by forty in breadth. The Catholic mission of Santa 
Clara was founded in this valley in the year 1777, and 
that of San Jose in 1797. These missions cultivated 
portions of their lands, planted vineyards and orchards, 
and formed, in their respective localities, the nucleus of 
future towns; but the Spanish and Mexican regime is 
not favorable to the rapid population of territory or growth 
of cities, and therefore, during nearly eighty years from 
the first settlement of this valley, it remained unimproved, 
excepting the lands in the vicinity of the mission buildings. 
But no sooner was the sovereignty changed, than tlie 
lovely plains and majestic groves of San Jose attracted the 
keen eye of the American farmer ; and the primeval silence 
of the little river Almeda was broken by the rush of 'the 
steamer, and the hum of a busy immigration. Four years 
have passed, and now visitors to that charming valley be- 
hold there a very diiferent scene. Good stage coaches con- 



80 IIISTORr OF CALIFORNIA. 

vey them, on smooth, level roads, in the diy season, to San 
Jose, ^yhich, from a dii-tj Mexican village, has become a 
thi-iving city. Comfortable farm-houses are rising on every 
hand ; roads are laid out ; the adjoining lands in some in- 
stances are enclosed with substantial wire, board, or rope 
fences ; extensive crops of wheat, rye, coi-n. and vegetables, 
in various stages of advancement towards maturity, are 
growing to supply the constant demands of the markets of 
San Francisco ; and all around are seen the evidences of 
thi-ift and enterprise. From San Jose a good road extends 
around the bay, on the western side, to the city of San 
Francisco ; and, for the longest part of the distance, the 
snug cottaores and canvas cabins of the new settlers are 
rising on the plains and in the little valleys among the 
hills. 

Li some sections of this valley the sui-face is so level 
that a horse or ox, feeding on the plain, could be seen at 
any distance within the power of vision : not a tree, shi'ub, 
nor hillock intercepts the view ; and the soil is as rich as 
can be desired. In other places the majestic Californian 
oaks appear, standing at respectful distances apart, over a 
larore extent of countrv. Several of the streams are skirt- 
ed with poplars, others with willows, and all these, in con- 
trast with the vast ocean of wild oats, which, in their arid 
summer hue, fill the valley and cover the surrounding 
hills, irive a very ai2;reeable varietv and freshness to the 
scene. 

Near the bay, and between the mission of Santa Clara 
and San Mateo, in this valley, is the celebrated ranche, 
which was purchased by Commodore Stockton. It is re- 
ported that by the terms of the sale, he agreed to pay the 
wealthy Mexican r>on, one dollar for each head of the cat- 



PLAINS AND VALLEYS. 81 

tie belonging to the estate, and that the land was not to be 
valued. Unexpectedly to the Commodore, the consideration 
amounted to ten thousand dollars ; but the purchase proved 
to be cheap at that price ; for the rapid influx of population 
raised the value of real estate, and, in a few months, it 
was worth four times the amount of the purchase money. 
Whether the purchaser ever troubled himself further about 
tlie cattle, has not transpired. 

In proportion to their size, there are, in the valleys of San 
Jose and Contra Costa, a larger number of acres under 
actual cultivation, than in any of the other plains of the 
state. In the former, nineteen thousand acres are now 
under tillage ; and in the latter, nine thousand and ninety- 
three; while in the great Sacramento valley there are 
yet only about twenty-three thousand, in the San Joacpiin, 
ten thousand, and in the San Juan, three thousand. 

The opinion prevails, that, in the Sacramento valley, 
a large portion of the interior cannot be farmed as profita- 
bly as many other parts of the state, owing to the expense 
which must be incurred in irrigation. Large sections, in 
which vegetation requires this aid, are, it is said, so remote 
from available streams, or are so elevated, that the necessary 
outlay to overcome this difiiculty must very seriously re- 
duce their value for farming lands. Along the streams, 
this objection is less formidable, irrespective of the relative 
elevation of the plain, because water can be raised by the 
aid of simple machinery, and conducted over the surface 
in sluices, and into artificial ponds. 

A large country in the eastern parts of Mariposa, Tulare, 
San Bernardo, and San Diego, counties in the southern 
section of the state, has been but imperfectly explored, and 
but little is yet known respecting its geography, or the 



82 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

character of its soil. That a considerable portion of it is a 
desert region, has been ascertained, and also that it is inhab- 
ited by various tribes of Indians, unfriendly to the '-pale 
faces," and to their explorations of the country. 

It is believed that the Colorado river, ^vhich forms the 
south-eastern boundary of the state, flows through a fertile 
region. This belief is based on an inference which is drawn 
from the fact that its waters are highly colored. That 
circumstance is regarded as evidence that the river flows 
through alluvial land, as the streams which pass over sand 
or rocks are clear. The name, Colorado, signifies i^ed. and 
it is probable that an extensive fertile valley, bounded by 
the desert on the west, is watered by this river. 

The country lying between the Sierra JSTevadas and the 
boundary line of the state on the north-east, is but little 
known. ^liners who have visited it report that it contains 
considerable tillable land. 
The number of acres of land in the state, 
subject to taxation on the first day 
of January, 1854, was ...... 6.719.442 

The assessed value of taxable property, §10,000,000 
The direct tax, 60 cts. on each $100 of 
valuation. 
Taxable personal property, .... $21,102,391 

State debt, 3,464,815,70 

The receipts of the unexpired fiscal year are as follows : 

Direct tax, §600,000 

Foreign miner's tax, 125,000 

Poll tax, 60,000 

Consigned goods, 50,000 

Auction duties, 75,000 

Passenger tax, 26,000 



RIVERS. 83 

Library fund, 2,000 

Possessory claims, 2,000 

Total amount, $940,000 

Deduction for delinquencies and costs of 
collection, 160,000 

Net amount of revenue, $780,000 

Expenditures during the year, . . . $960,000 

RIVERS. 

The State of California has no rivers of the first class ; 
nor, speaking in reference to its agricultural interests, can 
it be said that the state is well watered. It contains, how- 
ever, several rivers of considerable magnitude, and many 
smaller streams. Tavo or three of the rivers subserve very 
well, to a limited extent, the purposes of navigation into the 
interior ; but, though they flow through large valle^^s, their 
beds are so low during the dry season, that their waters 
cannot be made servicable, by any ordinary means, over 
some hu'ge tracts of adjoining land ; nor over many others, 
without a resort to machinery, more or less expensive. The 
small streams are less numerous, in all parts of this state, 
than in many other regions of equal extent ; and they are 
chiefly torrents, tumbling through the gorges of the moun- 
tain ranges, or of their spurs, into the rivers or the ocean. 
These tributaries, in some instances, traverse valleys of 
greater or less extent, fertilizing their banks and the adja- 
cent lands. On these, the sagacious rancher pitches his 
tent or rears his log cabin, in preference to the vast plains. 

In travelling oyer the state, especially in the middle and 



84 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

nortliern sections, occupants will almost certainly be found 
on all these small valleys ; often with no assistant, and, per- 
haps, with neither wife nor children near, to sweeten his 
hours of leisure, he toils on through the year, or from year 
to year, with scanty fare, with no domestic comforts, with 
no confidential associates, looking impatiently forward to 
the time when he hopes to reap a golden harvest, and to 
return with it to his former home. 

Sometimes these small ranches will be seen far up among 
the mountains, wherever the plats of level ground are suffi- 
ciently large for farming purposes, and there the lone toiler 
can look abroad, from the same position, over his promising 
crops, smiling in the summer sun, or up to the regions of 
perpetual frost, where the snows are glistening like spangles, 
in the same genial beams. 

Streams are more numerous, and they are larger in the 
northern and middle sections of the state than in the south- 
ern ; and, although an inspection of the map will give the 
impression that the whole territory is well supplied with 
water, it must not be forgotten that many of the delineations 
of streams are but channels through which the wash from 
the hills and mountains in the wet season is conducted 
across the plains into the rivers, and that they are dry dur- 
ing the long summers. This fact shows that even the rivers 
must then be seriously reduced in volume. Indeed, several 
streams which have acquired the dignity of rivers on the 
maps, are, for more than half the year, little else than 
meandering rivulets. The miners are compelled, in many 
instances, to abandon claims located in the neighborhood 
of streams, until the wet season commences ; for without a 
good supply of water, they cannot collect their gold. 

The Sacramento is the principal river in the state. 



RIVERS. 85 

Being the largest, it rises appropriately near one of the 
loftiest of her elevations, Mount Shasta, and among the 
spurs of the Sierra Nevadas, in about 41° 30' of north 
latitude. It communicates with the ocean through Suisan 
bay, the Straits of Carquinez, Pablo bay, and the Golden 
Gate. Its general course is about thirty min. east of south, 
and its length in a straight line is about 250 miles ; but it 
meanders through the great valley, in many long and grace- 
ful sweeps, in a channel of more than four hundred miles 
long. 

Its Tributaries, the principal on the east, commencing 
at the north, are, McLoud's fork, Pitt river, and Cow 
creek in Shastar county, Butte river in Butte county, 
Feather river, its largest tributary, and American river. 
Those on the west, are West fork. Rock, Salt, and Cotton 
Wood creeks in Shasta county, Oats creek, and Sycamore 
creek in Collusi county, and Cache creek in Yolo county. 

For many miles from its mouth, this river is of such uni- 
form width, that it resembles an artificial canal; and its 
banks are beautifully adorned with trees and vines. Voyag- 
ers on it, are charmed with the prospect, it is so novel in 
all its features. At one point may be seen a vast expanse 
of plain, covered with the green or ripened crop of wild oats, 
which wave in the wind like the ocean in a storm; at 
another, in the misty distance, is an isolated mountain, ris- 
ing in gloomy grandeur thousands of feet above all the sur- 
rounding objects. Here are the white canvas homes of the 
recent settlers ; there, the more aspiring tenements of the 
"49ers." Now, the light dip of the Indian's oar just 
ruffles the surface ; anon, the proud steamer comes dashing 
by, freighted with new adventurers, or with toil-worn 
miners. Of these, a few have realized their hopes : but the 
8 



86 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

far greater number, disappointed and sad, are bidding adieu 
to the country. Here, in the stream, is the rude wheel and 
machinery of the rancher, by which he forces the reluctant 
river to pay its tribute to the goddess of the future harvest. 
There, is an Indian settlement ; and among their earth-cov- 
ered burrows on the shore, are seen the feeble remnant of a 
f\\ding race. Here we find what was intended as the nu- 
cleus of a future town; but its dilapidation and solitude, 
remind the beholder of the days of romantic speculations ; 
and there, at "the Forks," is Sacramento, second in com- 
merce, population, and enterprise, only to her rival on the 
coast. 

Up to this city, a distance of about one hundred and 
thirty miles, by the channel from San Francisco, the Sacra- 
mento is navigabk for river steamers of a large size. Those 
of a less draught of water may probably ascend sixty or 
seventy miles further ; but its capacity has not been very 
thoroughly tested any considerable distance north of its 
junction with Feather river, about forty miles above Sac- 
ramento. Its annual overflows have already been referred 
to. 

Feather river, the principal branch of the Sacramento, 
has its sources among the Sierra Nevadas, in the counties 
of Butte and Sierra. Its course is south-westerly, and its 
length from its forks about one hundred miles. This river 
has three principal tributaries, called respectively the north, 
middle, and south fork. These forks are rapid streams, 
and in their course to the junction are swollen in the 
wet season by the torrents from the mountain gorges. 
Small steamers can ascend this river to its junction with 
the Yuba, a distance of forty miles ; and it is probably nav- 
igable for smaller boats a few miles beyond that point. 



RIVERS. 8T 

The Yuba lias three forks, called also, the north, mid- 
dle, and south, which rise in the counties of Sierra and 
Nevada, among the Sierra Nevadas. This stream has 
several smaller tributaries, but their beds are either dry, or 
nearly so in the summer. Of these, the most important 
are Deer Creek, Gold Run, and Spect Creek. 

Pitt river rises in Deer Lake, among the mountains in 
the north-eastern part of the state. It has not been thor- 
oughly explored, but is believed to be about one hundred 
and fifty miles in length. 

The American river unites with the Sacramento river 
at the city of the same name. It is about fifty miles from 
this junction to its forks. It is not navigated, if it be nav- 
igable, for vessels of any considerable draught of water. Its 
forks, like those of the Feather, are called the north, middle, 
and south. Its south branch has its source in Fremont's 
Lake, among the mountains in the romantic county of Eldo- 
rado ; but the middle fork is its principal tributary. 

The streams which communicate with the Sacramento on 
the west are chiefly creeks of small size. The Las Putas, 
which rises among the spurs of the Coast Range, in Napa 
county, is probably a branch of this river ; but it appears 
to be lost in the extensive tule swamps which lie between 
the hills and the Sacramento. It is reported to have its 
source in a large lake called Clear Lake, situated in that 
county, between the Coast range and one of its south-east- 
ern spurs. 

Kalmatii river is one of the largest streams in the 
state. It rises among the mountains in Oregon, near a 
lofty peak called Mount Pitt. Kalmath lake, on the eastern 
side of that mountain, probably communicates with this 
river. Its course is south-westerly for about one hundred 



88 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

and seventy miles to its junction with Trinity river, in Kal- 
math county, the extreme north-western section of the state ; 
from that point its direction is north-westerly to the ocean, 
into which it is discharged at about 42° 10' north latitude. 
It is a rapid stream. Above its junction with the Trinity 
river, it flows through a succession of rocky gorges, alter- 
nating with small, fruitful, valleys ; but from thence to the 
ocean it has a deep channel. At its mouth it widens into 
a long, narrow frith, in which are several high rocks or 
islands. Its principal tributaries are Shasta, Scotts, and 
Salmon rivers, which are discharged into it from the east. 

Trinity river rises in Kalmath county, and, running south- 
westerly about fifty miles, abruptly changes its course and 
falls into the Kalmath, about fifty miles from the ocean. 

Russian river rises among the mountains on the west- 
ern side of the Coast range, in Mendocino county, and, after 
flowing south-westerly about eighty miles, is discharged into 
the ocean about twenty miles north of Bodega bay. At its 
mouth is Fort Ross, a post established by a Russian trading 
company while the territory was a dependency of Spain. 

Puttaloma and Sonoma creeks and Napa river, are streams 
about thirty miles in length, which, running south, empty 
into Pablo bay. 

Suisan river rises in the north-western part of Solano 
county, and, after a course of about twenty miles, empties 
into Suisan bay. 

The San Joaquin has its source among the Sierra 
Nevada mountains in Mariposa county. Its course is south- 
west until it enters the valley ; thence it SAveeps abruptly 
around to the north-west, and in a serpentine channel 
makes its way to a confluence with the Sacramento. The 
communication of the two rivers with Suisan bay, into which 



RIVERS AND LAKES. 89 

they empty, is obstructed by several alluvial islands which 
divide their united waters into two principal channels, about 
twenty-five miles east of the bay. The mouth of the San 
Joaquin is a little south-west from that of the Sacramento. 
The difference in the length of these two rivers is not very 
great, but the volume of the former is less than that of the 
latter, which is only navigable for steamers of eight or nine 
feet draft of water, to the city of Stockton, about forty-five 
miles from the junction. Lighter steamers, however, may 
ascend it to a much greater distance. This river has a 
tranquil current, and near its mouth commences a series of 
sloughs, or back-water channels, formed by the junction of 
the two rivers ; the capacity of their communication with 
Suisan bay being too contracted to give a free discharge to 
their united currents. Tule lands abound along this river ; 
and its shores are not so beautifully diversified with foliage 
as are those of the Sacramento. A few large cotton-woods, 
or poplars, with bushes intervening, bend from its banks 
over its bright but sluggish waters. 

Tulare's Lake. South of this river, in Tulare county, 
and between the two great ranges, lies a large lake called 
Tulare's lake. It is a vast tule swamp, into which, on the 
eastern side, many streams from the mountains are lost. A 
succession of sloughs extends northwardly from this lake, 
and, according to the report of several persons who have 
traversed the country, these form a communication with the 
San Joaquin. 

All the important tributaries of the San Joaquin rise in 

the Sierra Nevadas and its collateral ranges. These are 

the Mokelumne river and Cossumnes in Sacramento county, 

the Calaveras in San Joaquin county, the Stanislaus and 

8* 



90 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Tuolorane in Tuolumne county, and the ^Mecede and Mari- 
pose in Maripose county. These rivers are not navigable ; 
and, with the numerous creeks which flow into them, are 
chiefly valuable as aids to the miner, rancher, and lumber- 
man. 

In the valley of San Jose are the Alemeda and Gudelapa. 
These are small streams flowing north-westerly into the bay 
of San Francisco. 

The Monterey or Salinas river rises among the spui-s 
of the Coast range in the county of San Luis Obispo, and 
is about one hundred miles in length. Its course is north- 
westerly through the San Juan, Salinas, and Carmel valleys, 
into the bay of Monterey. It is not navigable. 

In the county of Santa Barbara are the San Inez and the 
San Buenaventura, its northern and southern boundaries. 
These streams are about forty miles long, rise in the Coast 
range, and run in a south-westerly course to the ocean. 

Li the county of Los Angeles are the rivers Santa Anna, 
San Gabriel, and Rio de los Angeles. These are small 
mountain streams, rising in the Coast range and running 
south-westerly about thirty miles to the sea. The San 
Gabriel and Los Angeles empty into the bay of San Pedro. 

The Rio Colorado or Red river is, it is believed, one 
of the longest rivers on the western side of the Sierra Ma- 
dree mountains. Its numerous sources or branches — them- 
selves streams of considerable magnitude — rise among the 
spurs of that great range, in the eastern part of the territo- 
ries of Utah and Oregon. It forms the southern portion of 
the eastern boundary of the state, for a distance of about 
one hundred and forty miles, and empties into the Gulf of 
California at 32° of north latitude. 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 91 

The Mohave river, rising on the eastern side of the 
Coast Range, in the county of San Bernardino, falls into 
the Colorado about ninety miles from its mouth. 

CITIES AND VILLAGES. 

San Francisco is the principal city in the state. In 
commercial importance and enterprise in all the departments 
of business, it may be denominated the metropolis of the 
Pacific. A full description of" it would occupy more space 
than can properly be devoted to it in this connection, and it 
will be made the subject of a separate chapter. 

Sacramento. This, in importance, is the second city 
of the state. It is situated at the confluence of the Sacra- 
mento river with the American, on the eastern shore of the 
former, and about one hundred and thirty miles from San 
Francisco. Like its sister city it owes its origin and rapid 
growth to the discovery of the gold mines. At the time of 
that event, a small fort stood on the site of the present town ; 
and, after emigration commenced, formed a convenient 
" stopping place " for the miners on their journeys to and 
from the gold region. The first gold was obtained, in the 
year 1848, about forty miles east of this place ; and the 
direct route to those placers was through this city. During 
the wet seasons of 1848 — 50, large numbers of miners 
made this point their place of rendezvous ; and in the latter 
year the population had swelled to about 25.000. In the 
natural course of events, merchants and mechanics flocked 
to " The Forks," erected cheap wood or cloth cabins, and 
commenced business. On the return of spring the miners 
dispersed ; but this spot continued to be their most natural 
and convenient market through the year, and soon a large 



92 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

trade was liere permanently established. Such is the origin 
of this city, now containing about 10,000 inhabitants. 
During the first three years from its settlement, it was the 
nearest point at which overland emigrants, on their arrival 
in the country, could obtain supplies, or find a comfortable 
place of repose after the fatigues of their long and perilous 
journey. This circumstance contributed largely to increase 
its trade and business. It will, probably, continue to receive 
material benefit from the overland emigrants — notwith- 
standing that Nevada and Marysville are now strong com- 
petitors. 

The city contains about twenty-five spacious streets, which 
cross each other at right angles, forming large regular 
squares. The majority of the buildings are low, and con- 
structed of wood in the cheapest manner ; yet the city con- 
tains many substantial brick tenements. Should it not be 
again destroyed by flood or by fire, it may, in a few years, 
aspire to divide the honors of preeminence with its great 
rival. There are no public buildings worthy of particular 
notice. 

The plain on which it stands is elevated only eight or ten 
feet above the low- water mark of the river ; and, to provide 
against disasters from floods, which occur every spring, and 
which may happen at any other time, a levee^ about ten feet 
high and eight feet broad, has been constructed on the banks 
of the Sacramento and American rivers, for a distance of 
two or three miles. The city is now engaged in filling all 
the streets to a level with that work. 

This city has, literally, twice been destroyed ; by fire in 
November, 1852, and by flood in March of the same year. 
On the last visitation, the Sacramento was swelled to the 
height of twenty-five or thirty feet above its ordinary level, 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 93 

and the whole city was submerged. The loss of property 
occasioned by these disasters was very great, amounting 
to several millions of dollars ; and the plain recital of the 
scenes of individual suffering which followed will ever fill a 
gloomy page in the annals of the city. 

Before the city are moored a large number of store-ships, 
which are used for ware-houses for the safety of merchants' 
goods against the accidents of fire. These can easily " slip 
their cables" and be floated across the river, or down the 
stream, if an occasion should occur. One of these ships is 
used, at present, for a prison. But little interest appears to 
be felt here in the cause of education. 

Stockton. This city was first settled by Mr. Charles 
M. Weber, in the year 1844, under a grant of lands from 
the governor of the territory of California. It was made a 
pueblo in 1845, and seven residences were erected ; but the 
settlement was abandoned in 1846. No further attempts 
were made to improve the place until the fall of the year 
1848, when Mr. Weber erected a frame building. In a few 
months from that time the tide of travel to the southern 
mines wrought at Stockton, though on a much smaller scale, 
results like those experienced at Sacramento. The popula- 
tion soon rose to about 2000, and continued to increase, so 
that it now numbers more than 3000. 

The city is situated on the north-eastern shore of one of 
the sloughs which contain the back-water accumulated by 
the confluence of the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers. 
It is about three miles from the main channel, forty-five 
miles from the junction, and ninety from San Francisco. 
The river is navigable as far as this city for steamboats and 
other vessels of eight or nine feet draught of water ; and its 
central location between the southern mining region and the 



94 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

coast, will secure to it a large and constantly increasing 
trade. Being on high ground, it is not liable to the over- 
flows of the river. It, as yet, makes little pretensions to 
architectural taste, either in public or private buildings — 
they being mostly, and very cheaply, constructed of 
wood. 

Bexicia is, at present, the capital of this state. It was 
incorporated as a city in April, 1851, and consists of twen- 
ty or thirty ordinary buildings, situated on a gently-rising 
plat of ground, on the north shore of the straits of Carqui- 
nez, in the county of Solano. It is about thirty-five miles 
north-easterly from San Francisco. Vessels of the largest 
class can come up to its dock ; and its harbor is well pro- 
tected from storms. The town was laid out in 1848, im- 
mediately succeeding the discovery of gold ; and, during 
the rage of speculation which folloAved, lots were sold at 
high prices. The seat of government, fixed by the consti- 
tution at the pueblo de San Jose, was changed in February, 
1851, to Vallejo, situated on the bay of Napa. In the 
year 1852 it was removed to Benicia ; but the question of 
another change is now seriously agitated, and, until it shall 
be finally settled, the chances for the present capital to be- 
come a large city will remain problematical. 

Monterey. This is an old Spanish town, situated in a 
cove, on the south-western side of the bay of Monterey, and 
surrounded by lofty hills, which are covered with towering 
pines. It is protected, partially, by Point Pinos from the 
south and south-west winds ; and, by lying near the point, 
vessels may be tolerably safe from the north-west storms. 
When the American army took possession of this city, it 
became the capital of the country. The houses then stand- 
ing were few, and were constructed of adobes^ the universal 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 95 

building material of the native Californians. Like those of 
other Mexican towns, the inhabitants of Monterey were a 
dancing, gambling people ; but the population was small, 
not exceeding three or four hundred. After the conquest, 
the tide of emigration reached this city to some extent ; but 
its remoteness from the great object of attraction rendered it 
an indifferent rival to San Francisco. The town being situ- 
ated under high hills, during the rainy seasons its streets 
are rendered almost impassable by the torrents of water 
which come rushing down from the surrounding elevations. 
Its present population is about 2000, among whom are 
many Americans, who are too apt scholars in learning the 
Californian vices of gambling and drinking. These, and less 
creditable vices, are far too prevalent in all the cities, vil- 
lages, and settlements, old or new, in the state, for the 
moral health of the body politic. Monterey is seventy miles 
south from San Francisco. 

Santa Barbara. This is also an old town, and has 
been long celebrated for its wealthy Dons and beautiful 
Senoritas. These Dons own large tracts of land and nu- 
merous herds in the interior, but pass their time in the 
town, riding, occasionally, for pleasure or business, over 
their estates. They are also celebrated for hospitality and 
fandangos. Living under mild and genial skies, they are 
fond of ease and leisure ; and life wears away in their quiet 
town with few disquieting cares. Situated at a distance 
from the accustomed route of travel to the gold region, this 
town has been little affected by the enterprise which is pop- 
ulating and enriching the north. It stands on a spacious 
plain, fronting a broad bay, with towering hills in the back- 
ground and on the right. It has no harbor ; and vessels at 



96 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

anchor in the open roadstead are not safe during the preva- 
lence of south- Avesterlj winds. 

This town, like all the others of its date and class, is a 
collection of low adobe houses. The mission of Santa Bar- 
bara is about a mile distant from it, and the gray old pile 
retains more of the characteristics of the palmy days of 
Catholic domination over the simple Indians of these regions, 
than any other mission in California. The population of 
the town is about one thousand five hundred ; and it lies 
about two hundred and twenty miles south of San Fran- 
cisco. The channel between the main land and the island 
of Santa Cruz, is, in the country, called the Canal of Santa 
Barbara. It is frequented by vessels to take in cargoes of 
hides, tallow, and other productions — though not a safe 
anchorage. 

CiUDAD DE LOS Angeles. This is an inland tOAvn, also 
famous for its rich Dons and handsome Senoritas, for which 
reason it is considered, as its name imports, the '' City of 
the Angels." It is an old, aristocratic, Spanish settlement 
of wealthy rancheros and their lovely brunette wives and 
daughters. It is situated twenty-five or thirty miles north 
from the bay of San Pedro, and two hundred and eighty 
south from San Francisco. Its buildings are similar in ma- 
terial and structure to those of all the Spanish towns of 
California. The great valley, or plain, stretching between 
it and the ba}^, is remarkably fertile ; and, for that country, 
has long been highly improved. The facilities for irrigation 
are abundant, and have been applied to a considerable ex- 
tent. Large tracts of land are devoted to the culture of the 
grape, which, m this genial climate, produces abundantly — 
affording several thousand barrels of wine and brandy for 
annual exportation. Under the state government, hos An- 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 97 

geles has become an incorporated city, and contains about 
two thousand eight hundred inhabitants. 

San Diego. This is the most southern town of the 
state, being only three miles north of the boundary line. It 
is about three hundred and eighty miles south from San 
Francisco. It is situated on the fine harbor of San Diego, 
about three miles from the beach, and has long been a place 
of considerable trade in hides, tallow, wines, and brandy. Its 
favorable position and commercial facilities, in reference to 
the vast interior watered by the Colorado and Gila, render 
San Diego one of the most promising points on the coast of 
the state. In general characteristics it resembles the other 
old towns, and contains about two thousand five hundred 
inhabitants. 

Kalmath, at the mouth of Kalmath river ; Trinity, on 
Trinity bay ; and Uniontown, on Humboldt bay, are 
small settlements which have been originated by the com- 
merce, chiefly in lumber, existing between those regions and 
the southern ports. 

Marysville. This is one of the most prosperous of the 
towns in the interior. It is situated in Yuba county, on 
the north bank of the Yuba river, about half a mile from 
its confluence with Feather river. It is one of the new 
towns which have risen, and become places of commercial 
importance, under the influence of the mining interest, 
within the last three years. The buildings are much supe- 
rior to those in the majority of what are called the ' ' mining 
towns." Many of them are substantial and spacious brick 
structures ; and would be an ornament to any city. It has 
two principal streets ; but several others are opened, and 
good buildings erected on them. Its site is elevated about 
twenty-five feet above the low water level of the Sacramento 




98 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

and Yuba rivers ; but, in the great freshet which devas- 
tated Sacramento, this city also ^vas submerged. Its hotels 
and restaurants are particularly commodious, and of a high 
order. Its location is central and commanding, in respect 
to mining operations ; and it competes strongly with Sacra- 
mento in the trade of the country. It is about one hundred 
and eighty miles north-east from San Francisco ; and com- 
munication between the two cities is constant and easy in 
small-class steamers. Docks are not yet constructed, but 
are much needed. It was incorporated as a city in 1851 ; 
and its present population is about 4500. It is one of the 
few mining towns which, it is believed, will enjoy a perma- 
nent existence and prosperity. 

Nevada. This is an incorporated city, of mining origin. 
It is situated among the Sierra Nevadas, on the north bank 
of Deer river, a branch of the Yuba, and at a distance of 
about sixteen miles east from Marysville. It is located on 
the mining grounds, and miners are constantly at work in 
almost every part of it except its streets. These are nar- 
row ; and the buildings are, with few exceptions, cheap 
wooden structures, only a little above mere cabins. It has 
no navigable communication. Its population is about 7000, 
and it is an important place of rendezvous for the overland 
emigrants. These sometimes fill its narrow streets to reple- 
tion with their cattle, horses, mules, wagons, and a multi- 
tude of people. 

DowNiEViLLE is situated on the east bank of the north 
fork of the Yuba river, in Sierra county. It contains 
about 1000 inhabitants, and is a place of importance for the 
convenience of miners. It is about sixty miles north-east 
from Marysville. 

Shasta. This town stands on the western shore of the 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 99 

Sacramento river, in Shasta county. In a direct line, it 
is- about one hundred and fifty miles north from the city of 
Sacramento ; but, by the course of the river, its distance 
may be near two hundred miles. It is a mining town, con- 
taining about 1500 inhabitants. The buildings are princi- 
pally small and cheap wooden edifices ; but, previous to the 
fire which destroyed the town, in the summer of 1853, it 
contained several spacious and commodious structures. The 
Sacramento river is not navigable so far up as this set- 
tlement. 

Yreka, situated in Siskiyou county, is the most remote 
settlement in the north-eastern part of the state. 

Auburn, situated among the foot hills of the Sierra Ne- 
vadas, in Placer county, contains about 900 inhabitants, 
and is a place of considerable trade with the miners. Sev- 
eral of the buildings are large, and, in a good degree, are 
ornamental to the town ; but they are all constructed of 
wood. It is situated about forty miles north-east from the 
city of Sacramento. 

Grass Valley. This is a new settlement, and owes its 
prosperity to the rich and extensive leads of quartz gold 
which abound in its vicinity. It is situated about four 
miles southerly from Nevada, and contains about seven 
hundred inhabitants. 

CuLLOMA and Placerville, in Eldorado county, are 
places of extensive trade with the miners ; and, in their 
general characteristics, are similar to the majority of the 
settlements in the mining region. Culloma stands on the 
south bank of the south fork of the American river ; and 
PlacerviUe is about eight miles distant, in a southerly direc- 
tion. The former contains about 2000 inhabitants, and the 
latter about 4000. 



100 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

SoNORA. This is one of the most important inknd 
towns in the state. It was incorporated as a city in the year 
1851, is well laid out in large squares, with wide streets, 
and contains a population of 4000. The erections are 
chiefly after the fashion of interior California, but the city 
contains a good proportion of substantial public and private 
buildings. Sonora may be called the metropolis or capital 
of the southern mining region. Business, in almost every 
branch, pays good wages to the laborer, and large profits to 
the tradesman. It stands on the north branch of Tuolumne 
river, in Tuolumne county, and about sixty miles in a south- 
easterly direction from Stockton. 

San Jose. This is an old Spanish town, situated about 
seven miles south of the bay of San Francisco, in the county of 
Santa Clara. It contains a population of about four thou- 
sand ; a large proportion of whom are Mormons, and Jews. 
The Gudelapa river, a fertilizing stream in the valley of 
San Jose, winds its northward course at a little distance 
south of the city, and empties into the southern extremity 
of the bay of San Francisco. When gold was first dis- 
covered in California, a considerable amount of the travel 
from the south, into the mines, passed through San Jose, 
and gave the first impulse to its improvement. Buildings 
were erected in the American style, new streets were opened, 
and a flourishing trade was soon established. The popula- 
tion rapidly increased; and, when the constitution was 
adopted, this town became an incorporated city, and the 
capital of the state. But suddenly, at the very opening of its 
apparently prosperous future, it w^as despoiled of its politi- 
cal dignity. From the time that it ceased to be the seat of 
government it has remained almost stationary ; at least its 
onward progress in population and business has been tardy 



CITIES AND VILLAGES. 101 

and limited. Situated, however, in the centre of one of the 
loveliest and most fruitful valleys in California, it is becom- 
ing every year surrounded by an enterprising population of 
American farmers, who are enriching the country, by their 
success in skilful husbandry, and trade in all the depart- 
ments of business. From this source it will doubtless con- 
tinue to receive a steady and important support. 

Besides the cities and villages which have been specially 
noticed, there are many other places of less public impor- 
tance, in almost every section of the state ; and, also, there 
are some, which, having been born in the whirlwind of specu- 
lation, now exist only in name. Among the former, are 
Sonoma, in Sonoma county ; Napa, in Napa county ; Vallejo, 
in Solano county ; Martinez, New York, and Oakland, in 
Contra Costa county; Santa Clara and Alviso, in Santa 
Clara county ; San Luis Obispo, in the county of the same 
name, and Colusi, in Colusi county. Among the latter, are 
Fremont, Boston, Vernon, Eliza and Webster, on the Sacra- 
mento river, and Yuba city, at the junction of the Yuba 
and Feather rivers. 

In the mining region, every new place, gulch or bar, 
receives a name, and one or more tradesmen and mechanics 
establish themselves at the place; a restaurant and drink- 
ing house are provided, and the miners are sure to be hon- 
ored as the founders of a new village, and to be provided 
with abundant facilities and temptations to part with the 
fruits of their toil. These new villages, generally, bear the 
name of the first owner of the " mining claim," and appear 
on the next new map of the country ; but it must not be 
supposed that many of these continue even until the map is 
circulated ; for when the claim '' runs out " the village van- 
ishes. Such will be the history of a long catalogue of small 
9* 



102 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

settlements which have been formed among the mountains, 
and which now have a place on the map of the state. 

The communication between the cities and villages in the 
interior of the state is every year becoming more comfort- 
able, expeditious, and extensive. Good stage-coaches now 
run daily from Oakland, opposite San Francisco, to 
Stockton and Sonora. A line is also established, which 
makes a daily circuit of the bay of San Francisco. Coaches 
also run between Stockton and Sacramento ; between Sacra- 
mento, Marysville and Shasta; between Sacramento, Au- 
burn and Nevada ; between the latter city and Culloma ; and 
between San Francisco and Monterey. The aggregate 
number of miles of stage conveyance is about 800. The 
roads, in some sections of the state, are rendered heavy and 
almost impassable by the rains in the wet season. The clay 
bottom becomes a bed of mortar, and the wheels of loaded 
wagons, sinking often to the hub, become immovable without 
the united strength of many horses or mules. 

From Marysville, Sacramento, Nevada, Shasta, and other 
market towns in the remote parts of the state, the transpor- 
tation of passengers and merchandise to the villages and 
settlements further up among the mountains, is necessarily 
on mules ; and the romantic incidents, hair-breadth escapes, 
and desperate adventures, which transpire in those wild 
regions, are the subjects of rehearsal around the hearth- 
stone of many a ''returned Californian " at his home in 
"the states." 

March 3, 1854. — The seat of the state government is 
now changed from Benecia to Sacramento. 



CLIMATE. 103 



CLIMATE. 



The climate of California is, in almost every respect, 
unlike that of either of the older states of the Union. The 
year is divided into two seasons, distinguished as the wet 
and the dry — each varying in length, according to the lati- 
tude of the several sections of the state. 

At San Francisco, the dry or summer season begins in 
May. and ends in November ; and the remainder of the year 
is the wet or winter season. To the south of that city, the 
dry season begins earlier than May, and closes later than 
November; and to the north, until we reach about 40° 
of north latitude, its commencement is later, and its 
termination earlier. North of latitude 40°, the climate 
is comparatively little influenced by the causes which 
control the changes further south. For this reason, irri- 
gation of the land for the production of summer crops is 
longer needed in the southern than in the central division 
of the state ; and north of latitude 40° it is not needed. 

At San Francisco, the temperature during the dry season 
generally ranges between a monthly average of 5Q° and 62° ; 
and during the wet season, between 49° and 56°. In Sep- 
tember (which is accounted the warmest month), the mercury 
has stood at 98° for several days successively, and an equally 
high figure has been indicated in April and June. The 
mean monthly temperature seldom falls below 49° in winter. 
In February, 1854, ice formed on ponds in the vicinity of 
San Francisco, for the first time within the knowledge of the 
oldest inhabitants. 

At San Diego, the most southern city in the state, the 
average temperature in the dry season is about 13° 



104 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

higher than at San Francisco ; but it is believed that this 
great difference is produced by secondary causes, and that 
the difference occasioned by the latitude, alone, would not be 
so great, — perhaps not more than six or eight degrees. 

At Monterey the temperature does not differ very mate- 
rially from that of San Francisco, 

The average monthly temperature in the dry season, on 
the same parallel of latitude, is about eight or nine degrees 
higher on the Sacramento river than on the coast ; but in 
many places between the two ranges of mountains, during 
some days in June, July, August, and September, the ther- 
mometer ranges between 112° and 120° in the shade for 
several hours in the day. 

At Marysville, in June, 1853, the thermometer stood at 
112° at the same hour on two successive days. Generally, 
however, during the dry season, the climate in all those 
valleys, as far inland as the Sacramento and San Joaquin, 
is delightful ; the air is dry, soft, and balmy, and the nights 
are cool and comfortable. But among the mountains, 
further to the east, the temperature, in the wet season, is 
much lower than in the valleys, or, indeed, than on the 
coast, in a corresponding latitude. 

During the wet seasons, snow falls and continues for one 
or two days in succession, as far down on the mountains as 
Nevada and Little York. Sleet has been seen at Sacra- 
mento, and ice is occasionally formed on still surfaces of 
water in the vicinity of that city. 

The following is the popular theory respecting the seasons 
in California. The prevailing winds, during the dry season, 
are from north-east ; and on their way towards the Pacific 
Ocean, they successively pass over the snow-covered sum- 



CLIMATE. 105 

mits of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevadas. In 
their progress, these winds are deprived of their moisture 
by the lower temperature of those frigid summits to which 
they are subjected : so that when they reach the higher tem- 
perature of the plains and hills of California, they contain 
no moisture to be distilled in rain on the thirsty surface. 
On the contrary, they absorb the moisture from the earth 
over which they pass, which thus becomes more parched and 
dry. These winds also absorb the moisture from the atmos- 
phere of the Pacific Ocean for a great distance from the 
coast. When this wind ceases, the south-west current of 
air commences, and blows across the country, charged with 
the moisture of the South Pacific Ocean. These winds, 
from various causes, meet on the land a lower temperature 
than that of the ocean ; and their watery stores being con- 
densed, fall in gentle and genial rains on the earth. These 
rains are not constant, but fall at intervals, varying from a 
few hours to several days ; and they are sometimes copious. 
. These winds are produced by the attraction of the sun 
and the annual revolution of the earth, and are said to fol- 
low the line of this attraction. Thus, in March, the sun 
being then over the equator, and the diurnal motion of the 
earth being from west to east, the winds blow obliquely 
from the north-east and south-east toward this line of the 
sun's greatest attraction ; and this influence reaches to a 
considerable distance north of the tropic of Cancer, and 
south of the tropic of Capricorn. As the track of the earth 
around the sun gradually sends the line of attraction further 
north, the current of wind from the north-east extends ac- 
cordingly, producing the dry season in its progress ; so that, 
in June, when the sun is over the tropic of Cancer, its in- 



100 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

fluence reaches bejond the northern limits of the state, and 
this north-east wind extends to an equal distance north. 

This attraction is felt at San Francisco about the middle 
of May. As the sun recedes, and the attraction is Avith- 
drawn, the north-east current ceases, and the south-'west 
Avind blows, producing the " Avet season." The sun re- 
passes the equator in September, and the north-east wind is 
withdrawn, about as low down as 40° of north latitude. In 
November the influence of the sun's line of attraction re- 
cedes below the latitude of San Francisco, and in December 
it passes the southern boundary of the state. 

The " fogs " which rise on the coast are explained upon 
the following theory. The cold ocean currents, which come 
from the northern regions, flow along the coast of the state, 
and come in contact with the air of a higher temperature, 
which absorbs the moisture, and causes it to rise in the form 
of fog. The dry wunds from the mountains, also, on reach- 
ing the Pacific, absorb the moisture of its atmosphere, and 
])ecome united with this colder air of the great ocean cur- 
rent, and cause these fogs. When the heat of the interior, 
in the long dry seasons, becomes much greater than it is on 
the ocean, an under current is formed, which blows, inland, 
and bears these chilling fogs upon the coast hills, and, 
through the gorges, upon some parts of the lowlands. They 
prevail to a greater extent in San Francisco and its vicinity 
than at any other point. These fogs generally rise towards 
evening, and continue until late in the night. 

Heavy dews are rare in the middle and southern divisions 
of the state. The statements of individuals differ in respect 
to the appearance of the dew, in particular localities ; and, 
although the question of their prevalence has been made the 
subject of frequent observation, yet heavy dew^s are very 



CLIMATE. 107 

rarely seen. In many places, vegetation, in the morning, 
occasionally exhibits slight collections of moisture, in great- 
er quantities in some sections than in others ; but no dews 
appear like those Avhich prevail in the Atlantic states ; and 
it is believed that, generally, in this climate, in the dry 
seasons, the mornings find vegetation as thirsty as at mid- 
day. 

There is an ocean breeze, which rises every morning at 
eight or nine o'clock, and continues to blow until night ; 
but, as it prevails in the region around San Francisco to a 
greater extent than on any other part of the coast, it will be 
explained in a future chapter, in connection with a view of 
that city. 

The peculiarity of this climate naturally suggests the con- 
clusion that agriculturists, who have been accustomed to 
farming in the Atlantic states, will be forced to abandon 
many of their former practices, and become learners in Cal- 
ifornia. As a general remark, the soil of all the valley 
lands is abundantly rich to produce, luxuriantly, any crop 
which may be grown in the Atlantic states ; but, as the 
perfect development of different crops requires different 
degrees of moisture, and at different stages during their 
growth, it will not be found an easy task, without experi- 
ment, to determine what localities, and what seasons of the 
year, are best adapted to the production of the different 
grains, roots, and vegetables. 

The arable hill lands of this country will, doubtless, be 
mostly devoted to grazing ; though some of the less elevated 
may be made to produce one yield annually of certain crops. 
Where irrigation may be cheaply applied, the difficulty sug- 
gested will be less serious ; but a large proportion of the 
farming valley lands either cannot be watered by artificial 



108 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

means, or the expense of irrigation -vvill preclude the appli- 
cation of that substitute for timely showers. 

The effect of the dry seasons on vegetation may be fully 
realized at the tables in San Francisco. Those vegetables 
which flourish tolerably well in a dry soil, will be tender 
and of good flavor ; but those that require much moisture, 
will be wilted and tough. Radishes and potatoes are among 
the former, and green corn and cucumbers among the latter. 
In the markets, also, the same evidence will appear. Those 
vegetables which were grown on lands adapted, either natu- 
rally or by sufficient irrigation, to their natures, may be 
easily distinguished by their great size and fine general ap- 
pearance. On inquiry respecting these, it will be found 
that they were thus produced, while those of much inferior 
appearance are the growth of a dry soil. 

AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. 

Under this head will be noticed the raising of cattle, 
&c., as well as the production of crops. For more than for- 
ty years, in the southern portion of the present state of Cal- 
ifornia, were produced vast herds of cattle, — called in the 
country black cattle, — besides horses, sheep, hogs, and 
goats. The native cattle are of an inferior breed, and, 
from the mode of farming pursued, are but little removed 
from wild cattle. In form they are long-limbed, large- 
boned, and deep, but thin ; and they were chiefly valued by 
the inhabitants for their hides and tallow. The native 
horses, sheep, and hogs, are small, and by the American 
farmer are but lightly esteemed. The native Californians 
still continue to raise them ; but the -eastern husbandmen 
are introducing stock from the Atlantic states. The re- 



AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. 109 

turns of the census, to which I have before referred, show 
the following results on this subject : — 

No. of Horses, 64,733 

'' Cows, 104,339 

" Beef Cattle, 315,392 

<' Working Oxen, 29,065 

'' Sheep, 38,000 

" Hogs, 42,000 

Three of the counties made no returns of stock. It has 
been asserted that farm-jard fowls, particularly hens im- 
ported from the Atlantic states, do not reproduce with suc- 
cess in this country, especially on the coast, and that chick- 
ens die without any apparent cause. The census returns 
show that large flocks of hens and turkeys are raised in the 
southern part of the state ; but whether they are from im- 
ported stock does not appear. The native poultry — hens, 
turkeys, geese, and ducks — are of very inferior quality. 
Mules are in general use in this state, as '' teams," and are 
of a superior breed. The census returns 16,578 of them. 

Wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes, are produced in nearly 
every county in the state. The census only shows the pro- 
duction of peas in one county ; and buckwheat is not men- 
tioned in that document. The following is the statement of 
the number of bushels of grain and potatoes grown in the 
state in the year 1852 : — 

Wheat, 291,768 

Barley, 2,973,734 

Oats, 100,497 

Corn, 62,532 

Potatoes, 1,393,170 

On the coast, corn does not thrive, the nights being too 
cool. 

10 



110 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

Accor"'.ing to these returns, the principal grain-growing 
districts are in the central and southern divisions of the 
state, namely, in the counties of Sonoma, Contra Costa, Los 
Angeles, Napa, Sacramento, Santa Clara, Solano, Santa 
Cruz, and San Joaquin. 

It is believed that good hemp and flax may be grown, al- 
though the latter is not referred to in the census. Former- 
ly, hemp was cultivated in Los Angelos county for exporta- 
tion. Field beans flourish in every part of the state ; but 
ground vines require profuse irrigation on almost all the lands. 
On those naturally adapted to the production of the differ- 
ent cereal grains, or which are properly irrigated, a remark- 
able growth and yield may be produced. Li the year 1853, 
stalks of the Indian corn were found which measured four- 
teen feet in height, and yielding about one hundred bushels 
to the acre. Spears of oats, nine feet high, and of barley 
and wheat, eleven feet, were also found. Wheat, in some 
instances, yields sixty-five pounds to the bushel, and seventy 
bushels to the acre ; and barley, from one hundred to one 
hundred and forty bushels. Those, of course, are not the 
ordinary returns which the fields of California make to the 
husbandman ; but they are conclusive evidences of the 
strength of her soil. 

Horticulture receives considerable attention in several 
of the counties, particularly in Sacramento, Santa Clara, 
Marin, Sonoma, San Joaquin, and Monterey. In Santa 
Clara, in 1852, were produced 8,356,600 pounds of onions; 
and cabbages, carrots, beets, and garden beans, in propor- 
tion. The estimated value of the horticultural harvest in 
Sacramento county, in the same year, was $339,682. 
Every description of garden vegetable known in the Atlan- 
tic states grows here in great perfection ; and the land, if 



HORTICULTURE. Ill 

moist or well irrigated, requires no previous preparation for 
the reception of the seed. The following are the weights 
of single vegetables which were grown in the year 1853, 
viz. : — 

Squashes, weight in lbs., 121 lbs. 

Onions, 22 inches in circumference, . 6 " 
Beets, 18 inches in length, . . . . 51 " 

Sweet Potato, 20 " 

Carrot, 10 " 

Common Potato, one foot long, ... 6 " 
These specimens were raised in Santa Clara and Santa 
Cruz counties ; and they are given merely to show 'the 
growth which the soil will sustain under proper cultivation. 
Cotton and the sugar-cane flourish in Los Angeles 
county, and the climate appears to be well adapted to their 
successful cultivation. No reason is perceived why they 
should not grow equally well in other of the southern coun- 
ties. The sweet potato is grown in abundance in several 
sections of the state. 

Fruits of various kinds have long been cultivated on all 
the Catholic mission lands. Apples, pears, peaches, olives, 
figs, apricots, limes, oranges, yams, cherries, quinces, and 
grapes, have been produced in those old orchards and vine- 
yards for more than half a century. 

It has been doubted whether the apple and peach would 
flourish in the state. Persons but imperfectly acquainted 
with this climate have suggested that the heat of the dry 
season is too great, and of too long duration, for the perfect 
development of the apple ; and the nights too cold for the 
tender peach ; but experiments, which have been made with 
grafts, and with fresh trees transplanted within the last 
three years, show the fallacy of those doubts. Large, fair 



112 UISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

apples and peaches of difterent species and of excellent 
flavor, were gathered, in the season of 1853, from trees and 
grafts but two years of age. 

All that is necessary to secure success in this state, in 
the cultivation of any of the fruits which can be grown 
north of the tropic, is a sufficient knowledge of the nature 
of the several fruit-bearing trees, to be able to select for 
them fiivorable locations for planting orchards. 

The grape and pear are produced in great abundance and 
variety in the southern and central counties. In Los An- 
geles county are one hundred and five vineyards, all but 
twenty of which are in the city. Its vintage, in the season 
of 1852, was 2,250,000 pounds of grapes, from 450,000 
vines. Of these, 1,000,000 of pounds were sold in the mar- 
kets of San Francisco, and the remainder were manuflictured 
into wine and a brandy, called, in the country, Aquadiente. 
The annual production of these two liquors in that county is 
about 2,000 barrels of each. The counties of Santa Clara, 
Santa Barbara, Marin, Solano, and San Luis Obispo, con- 
tain numerous old vineyards from which large quantities of 
grapes are annually gathered, and many barrels of wine 
and brandy are manufactured. 

AVithin a few years, several of these vineyards and fruit 
orchards have passed into the hands of private individuals, 
by whom their condition has been greatly improved, and 
their annual yields augmented. Many of them, while under 
the management of the missions, were neglected, and were 
comparatively unproductive. 

Every species of the grape grows equally well ; and as 
evidence of the peculiar adaptation of the soil to its cultiva- 
tion, and also of the pear, it may be stated that a single 
cluster of the former frequently reaches five, six and even 



WILD BEASTS. 113 

twelve pounds in weight ; and that the latter, particularly 
the Pound pear, often exceeds two pounds. At San Jose, 
in the season of 1853, a cluster of four Sugar pears was 
gathered, the weight of which was seven pounds. 

The grape vine is generally allowed to trail upon the 
ground, or on a low frame ; and the vineyards are well irri- 
gated by small currents of water, which are conducted 
through them in all directions. When the soil is very 
porous, the water is conducted either in imbedded wooden 
or in earthen sluices. 

Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, and gooseberries 
of several species, grow in the northern and middle sections 
of the state; and when transplanted, and properly culti- 
vated, yield heavy crops, and a very large berry. The 
currant is not a common production, but it has been ascer- 
tained that it will flourish. 

As the adaptation of the soil of California to the pursuits 
of general agriculture has not yet been very thoroughly 
tested, and as the results of most of the experiments which 
have been made to introduce foreign productions are satis- 
factory to farmers of intelligence and experience, the 
opinion may be reasonably entertained that when the pecu- 
liarities of the climate and the proper seasons for planting 
and sowing the different crops are better understood, the 
state will produce all the grains, fruits and other vegetables 
of the Atlantic states, and many of those which are denomi- 
nated tropical. 

WILD BEASTS. 

This branch of the natural history of the state of Cali- 
fornia has been less definitely and satisfactorily developed 
10* 



114 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

than a cursory reading of the various works written on the 
subject might seem to indicate. 

The early travellers in the vast regions which extend 
from the Mississippi to the Pacific, and from Mexico to an 
indefinite distance at the north, speak in their reports of 
vast tracts of territory ; and they give the names and 
descriptions of the wild beasts and birds which they saw in 
their extensive travels, without always being careful to 
specify the particular sections of country in which they 
find the various animals specified, while it is certain that 
the same species do not frequent all those regions. Mr. 
Farnham^ in his work entitled, "Life, Adventures and 
Travels in California," has doubtless treated this subject 
as definitely and correctly as any other writer. According 
to him the following wild beasts may be found in the moun- 
tains and on the plains of the state. 

The Grizzly Bear. This is the monarch of the for- 
ests. Specimens are often met which are five feet long, 
and will weigh from 500 to 1000 pounds. This animal is 
of a dusky brown color, is solitary in its habits, never 
climbs trees, and is very powerful ; but it seldom attacks 
man. 

The Black Bear. This beast resembles the correspond- 
ing species found in the forests of the Atlantic states. 

The Barren Ground Bear is probably a species of 
the Black Bear but is of a lighter color. 

The Baccoon is the same as the well-known animal of 
the eastern forests. 

The American Badger inhabits the northern parts of 
California. 

The Cougar is found in its deeply wooded mountains. 

The Wolverine. This is a savage, sullen animal and 



WILD BEASTS. 115 

partakes of the nature of the bear, fox, and weasel ; but, 
from its size, is not formidable to man. 

The common weasel, the mink, the martin, the skunk, the 
common wolf, the gray wolf, the dusky wolf, the black 
wolf, the prairie wolf or wild dog, the red and the common 
fox, the northern lynx, the banded lynx or tiger cat, and 
the red lynx, inhabit various parts of the state. 

On the large plains are found bands of wild horses, elk, 
deer, and antelope. The antelope and deer are hunted for 
their hides and tallow. They are taken on the plains with 
the lasso ; and, with the deer, are used as food. The pub- 
lic tables at San Francisco are always supplied with this 
delicious wild game. The antelope is also found in the 
mountains. 

Deer. The black- tailed or gray deer, and the long- 
tailed or jumping deer, are found in various parts of the 
state. 

The Moose inhabits the mountains in the northern part 
of the state. 

The Prong-horned Antelope, and the Mountain 
Sheep or Argali, are found in the highest mountains. The 
former is larger than the common sheep ; the latter is less, 
and its horns are from two to three feet in length. 

Otters. The sea otter and land otter, abound on the 
sea-coast and at the mouths of the rivers. These are the 
most valuable fur-producing animals of the country. 

The common hair seal, the beaver, and muskrat are trapped 
in the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and their tributaries. 
The seal is also found on many parts of the coast. 

Of rats, mice, marmots, and squirrels, there are numer- 
ous species. The ground squirrel is the most common ; and 
in travelling on the plains, especially in the " oak openings." 



116 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

immense numbers of these will be seen, running in all 
directions, and suddenly disappearing into the ground. So 
quick will they sink below the surface, that the beholder 
sometimes doubts whether the animal was really seen. The 
black squirrel, the gray-tailed squirrel, the flying and the 
striped squirrel, are also occasionally seen. San Francisco 
is the place for the naturalist to study the history of the 
Pouched Rat. That city swarms with them. They are 
of mammoth size and very bold. 

Hares. There are in the country several species of this 
fine wild game. The Lepus Glacialis, the prairie hare, 
and the little hare are the principal. The woodchuck abounds 
on the plains. 

The Bison and Polar Bear, although occasionally seen 
in the country, cannot properly be classed among the wild 
beasts of California. 



fish. 



No waters in the world contain a more numerous variety 
of fish than those of California. From the whale to the 
delicate smelt, the descending series seems complete. 

The whale, porpoise, sturgeon, halibut, pilchard, skate, 
turbot, bonito, mackerel, sardine, cod-fish, porgy, and black- 
fish, abound; the first two "out at sea," and the others 
named, on various parts of the sea-coast. 

The salmon of the Sacramento is the fish of California ; 
and none superior can anywhere be found. This fish often 
attains the weight of forty pounds, and specimens have been 
caught which weighed seventy. 

Oysters are found in several places along the sea-coast, 
but of an inferior quality. Attempts have here been made 



BIRDS. 117 

to cultivate this shell-fish, but it is reported that every 
experiment has hitherto failed. Along the coast, however, 
within the Pueblo limits of Santa Barbara, a bed has been 
recently discovered, which is one hundred and fifty yards in 
length, twenty-five feet wide and two or three feet in depth ; 
oysters from which are of large size and of good flavor. 

Great quantities of muscles are obtained here, and are 
excellent eating. 

Other streams contain salmon trout, small trout, bass and 
large chubs. 

BIRDS. 

California is not so remarkable for the number as the va- 
riety of its feathered tribes. The miners and others who 
have passed considerable time among its mountains and 
plains, remark that, according to their observations, birds in 
the interior are comparatively rare, though aquatic fowls 
and those which frequent the coast are more numerous. 
This report is consistent with the teachings of ornithology. 
Birds abound in those districts or regions which are thickly 
wooded, and where foliage is abundant. The traveller up 
the Nicaragua river will see more birds on his passage, than 
in a tour of the entire state of California, — a large portion 
of which consists of leafless plains or dry mountains and 
hills, covered with lofty, sun-burned trees, which have com- 
paratively very little foliage. There is nothing on either to 
invest them with freshness, and to awaken in their solitudes 
the songs of happy birds : they choose to congregate where 
the forests are dense and luxuriant. 

There are birds which delight in the open plain, and oth- 
ers that seek the craggy mountain-tops ; there are those 



118 HISTORY OF CAMFORNIA. 

which frequent the margins of peaceful inland streams, and 
many that make their home around the billows of the 
stormy sea ; but the number of all is small in comparison 
with the multitudes that love the deep green forests and 
the shady groves; the former are more particularly the 
birds of California, of which the following are the principal. 

The California Vulture is of enormous size, being 
often four feet in height, and ten feet from tip to tip of its 
wings. It is a solitary bird, building its nest on the loftiest 
trees of the highest mountains, and feeding on carrion. 

The Turkey Buzzard is a black and very filthy bird. 
It is called a scavenger because it feeds on ofial. 

The Black Vulture in habits and general appearance 
resembles the two previously mentioned. 

The Golden Eagle. This is a large bird, and has 
been from time immemorial the emblem of power and bra- 
very. 

The Bald EaCxLE. This is the well known "American 
Eagle," the emblem of the United States. Keen in vision, 
rapid in flight, bold, and inferior to none of his race in 
strength, his home is among the clouds, and on the beet- 
ling clifis. This bird is denominated " bald " from the 
circumstance that the head and neck are snowy white, while 
the remainder of the body is a deep umber-brown. It 
grows to three or four feet in height, and to seven or eight 
in extent, or stretch of wings. 

The fish-hawk, black-hawk, jer-falcon, pigeon-hawk, gos- 
hawk, great horned owl, great snow owl, black raven, north- 
ern shrike, robin, brown thrush, lark, three species of red- 
wing, snow-bunting, crossbill, magpie, three species of jay, 
woodpeckers, humming-birds, barn, cliff and bank swallow, 
nighthawk and kingfisher, are found in different parts of 



L 
SHRUBS AND PLANTS. 119 

the state. Grouse of various kinds, such as the great cock 
of the plains, dusky grouse, rock grouse, ruffed grouse, 
white-tailed grouse, and pin-tailed grouse, inhabit the plains 
and mountains. 

The bays, inlets and rivers, contain a variety of water- 
fowl, such as geese, ducks, widgeons, teal, cranes and 
curlews ; while others, the snipe, sand-piper, plover, tatler, 
godwit, gull and phalarope, inhabit the shores. 

The Swan is the largest bird of California. Its color is 
a pure white, except on the legs and bill, which are black, 
and the forehead, which is orange. This is a bird of pas- 
sage, coming from the south generally as early as April, 
and returning in October or November. 

The White Pelican is a large bird, and frequents the 
sea-coast. It abounds on the island of Alcatrazes, in the 
Golden Gate. 

The Albatros. This bird is seen everywhere on the 
ocean. It is a huge, brown sea-fowl, having a very long 
bill and webbed feet. 

SHRUBS AND PLANTS. 

The flowering shrubs and plants of California are said to 
be various and beautiful ; but, in making the tour of a large 
portion of the state, it was not the fortune of the writer to 
see many flowers of any description ; and those seen emitted 
little fragrance. The dryness and heat of the climate may 
compel these glories of the field to withhold their principal 
charm during the dry seasons, and they may bloom when 
the spring returns in fragrance and beauty. The honey- 
suckle, lily, primrose, poppy, wild lupine, monkey-flower, 
bear-berry, mountain pink, willow-herb, beard-tongue and 



120 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 

larkspur, are named among the flowering shrubs and plants 
of the state. 

Another plant, too common in the country for the com- 
fort of strangers, ought not to be forgotten — the Yedra. 
This is a very poisonous shrub, small, slim and low, having 
a leaf like the three-leafed clover, excepting that it is scal- 
loped. It grows in shady places in every part of the 
country, and, if brought in contact with the skin, produces 
extensive inflammation. Some persons are proof against this 
venom ; but those who are not, often suficr severely from its 
effects. 

REPTILES. 

Little attention has been directed to the reptiles of Cali- 
fornia. They have not been classed nor described, probably 
for the reason that they are neither numerous nor large. 
Miners and others assert, that, in their travels through the 
country, they rarely meet with large serpents, nor, in fact, 
with any not common to the Atlantic states. The striped 
snake, black snake, adder, spotted or milk snake, rattle snake, 
and several species of water snake, are occasionally seen. 



PAET SECOND. 

DESCRIPTION OP SAN PRANCISCO.^ 



CHAPTER I. 



Preliminary Remarks, Origin of the City, View from the Bay, Population, 
Progress, Public and Private Buildings, Streets, Business Markets, Ship- 
ping, Improvements, Enterprise, &o. 

San Francisco, previous to the year 1848, was men- 
tioned in the geography, and appeared on the map of the 
world, only as the name of a capacious bay on the North 
American coast of the Pacific Ocean. Previous to that 
eventful period in the history of California, the word asso- 
ciated only the ideas of a far-off country, the unmeasured 
range of the hunter and trapper, and a wild, unfrequented 
and comparatively uncivilized region. 

When Discovered. The discoverer of this bay and the 
time of its discovery are not with certainty known. As 
stated in another connection, Don Rodrigues Cabrillo, a 
Spanish navigator, brought this coast to the knowledge of 
mankind in the year 1542, and explored it from the Gulf 
of California to about the forty-third degree of north lati- 
tude; but he did not discover the inlet. His failure is 

* St . Francis . 
11 



122 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

attributed to the dense fogs which prevailed in its vicinity. 
In subsequent years, and down to 1769, various adventurers 
succeeded Oabrillo in these seas, but the journals of several 
of the earlier of them are so imperfect, that it cannot be 
ascertained whether their authors discovered the bay, and 
therefore these facts remain undetermined. Sir Francis 
Drake explored the coast in the year 1578, and, according 
to some authorities, extended his explorations into the har- 
bor. If this navigator did so, he is among its earliest 
visitors, if he be not its discoverer. 

Origin of its Name. This bay received the name of 
San Francisco in the year 1769, from Don Gaspar de 
Portala, then governor of Upper California. He was the 
commander of an overland expedition which was sent out 
by the Marquis de Croix, the Viceroy of New Spain, to 
select locations for the settlement of Roman Catholic 
missions. Portala was charmed with the country border- 
ing on the bay, and christened the latter in honor of the 
patron saint of the Franciscan order of Friars. Pursuant 
to his recommendation, Father Junipero Serra, the mission- 
ary president of Upper California, founded, near the bay, 
the mission which has been described in another chapter. 
(See p. 4.) 

Previous to the year 1848, the wildest imagination 
could scarcely have conceived that a large and populous 
city would suddenly rise under the flag of the Union on 
that remote and alien shore ; or that the waters of that 
silent harbor would so soon be whitened with the canvas of 
every nation, and be vocal with the restless commerce of 
the world. But enterprise is not now the tardy nag it was 
forty years ago ; the sentiment, ' ' /)er5ei;eraw^ia vincit 
onmia^^^ is not, at this day, a merely literary flourish or 



NAME OP THE LOCALITY. 123 

theoretic idea, but is a practical fact; and its truth has 
never been more signally illustrated than in the history of 
San Francisco — a history that has no parallel in the annals 
of the world. It is written that '' St. Petersburg was com- 
manded to be, and St. Petersburg was." By that imitation 
of a sublime figure in the Scriptures, the historian designed 
very forcibly to express the fact that the city was reared 
with all the expedition that a monarch could command. The 
Czar willed, and moved in the execution of his single will, 
with the treasure and sinews of an empire at his disposal. 
But, with San Francisco, the circumstances were very dis- 
similar. Individuals, strangers to each other, speaking 
different lang-uao^es, unlike in all the elements of social and 
political life, generally poor, and brought together by one 
of the most extraordinary and exciting of modern discoveries, 
have founded a city which now, only five years subsequent 
to the first general emigration to California, is larger and 
more populous than St. Petersburg became in thrice that 
period. 

Name of the Locality. The locality on which the 
city of San Francisco is situated, was at one time known 
by the name of Yerba Buena. According to several author- 
ities, it was once a municipality having that title ; accord- 
ing to others, it was always within the jurisdiction of the 
ayuntamiento of San Francisco, which held its sittings at 
the mission ; but other evidence is adduced to prove that 
the latter municipality was never formed, although a decree 
of the Mexican Congress authorized its organization. But 
these are questions of jurisdiction, important only to the 
owners of certain city lots, the titles to which are derived 
through officials, assuming to act under conflicting claims to 
authority. 



124 DESCRIPTION OP SAN FRANCISCO. 

Its Signification. Yerba Buena signifies pleasant 
plant, and the term was applied to the site of the city, from 
the circumstance that the general barrenness of the sandy 
beach was, in former years, partially relieved in that place 
by a stinted growth of the wild peppermint. 

Commencement of the City. The first house erected 
here was built by Mr. Jacob P. Leese, an American, and 
was completed on the third day of July, 1836. On the 
next day he dedicated his new mansion to the cause of Free- 
dom, by celebrating in it the anniversary of his country's 
independence; his brother-in-law General Yallejo, and 
several American captains, whose vessels happened to be in 
the bay, cordially joined in the patriotic ceremonies. 

Subjection to the United States Sovereignty. 
On the seventh day of July, in the year 1846, the Ameri- 
can army took military possession of Upper California by 
landing at the port of Monterey ; and, on the thirtieth day 
of May, in the year 1848, the territory was ceded to the 
United States. Prior to 1846 the locality, now covered by 
the city, contained only ten or fifteen small buildings, con- 
structed of adobes ; and nothing then visible promised any 
sudden or considerable increase of improvements or popula- 
tion. In the month of May, however, of the year 1848, 
was made the great discovery of gold in Upper California ; 
and with that event properly begins the history of the city 
of San Francisco. 

Between the years 1846 and 1848, a population of sev- 
eral hundreds had collected there, who were, doubtless, in- 
fluenced in that direction by the belief that the territory 
would be ultimately attached to the United States. 

Effect of the Discovery of Gold. The news of 
the gold-discovery excited this population to so high a degree 



DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 125 

that nearly every male adult in the place, able to walk, left 
occupation, home, and comforts, and repaired to the mines. 
Great numbers of the native Californians from the far south, 
with many Indians, wended their way towards the streams, 
gorges, and mountains of the north and east. 

The golden news soon reached the Atlantic states, and, 
" on the wings of the wind," was wafted throughout Europe, 
China, and even to the sealed empire of Japan. The world 
was electrified, and seemed to anticipate, as a reality, the 
fabled enchantments of "El Dorado."* Emigration to the 
land of gold immediately commenced. Vessels in large 
numbers began to turn their bows towards the " Golden 
Gate," and to discharge their multitudes of human beings, 
and freight, on the sandy shores of the bay. 

In a few months San Francisco became the rendezvous of 
adventurers from every nation. At this point they congre- 
gated to prepare for their labors among the valleys and moun- 
tains of the vast, unexplored interior. Here, also, they 
expected to find their necessary supplies in the future. 
The mechanic, of course, followed with his tools, and the 
merchant with his wares ; and labor and merchandise found 
a ready market at extravagant prices. 

As a necessary consequence of this new impulse given to 
trade, real estate, which before was worthless, needed now, 
almost, to be covered by dollars to represent its assumed 
valuation. Rentals were in large demand ; and long lines 
of temporary tenements appeared, like a dream of the morn- 
ing, along the sandy shore of the magnificent bay. Under 
laws of the American Congress which prevailed, lots were 
staked out on the public domain, in the valley and on the 

* The gold or gilding. 
11* 



126 DESCRIPTION OP SAN FRANCISCO. 

hill-sides, were slightly enclosed by the first lucky occupant, 
and claimed as individual property. Thus were laid, in the 
years 1848-9, the foundations of a city, which now contains 
fifty thousand inhabitants ! 

Twice since that time it has been almost annihilated by 
fire, and again seriously, though less extensively, impaired; 
yet. Phoenix-like, it has as often reappeared in augmented 
beauty, vigor, and solidity. 

When Incorporated. The city was incorporated in 
the year 1851. Its present limits are included within the 
following boundaries, viz. : "A line parallel with Clay street, 
two and a half miles distant, in a southerly direction from 
the centre of Portsmouth square. On the west by a line 
parallel with Kearney street, two miles distant, in a westerly 
direction, from Portsmouth square. Its northern and east- 
ern boundaries shall be coincident with those of the county 
of San Francisco." This county embraces only the promon- 
tory which forms the bay. The city is divided into eight 
wards, which are subdivided into districts. The municipal 
government consists of ''a Mayor, Recorder, Comptroller, 
Treasurer, Collector, Attorney, Marshal, Street Commis- 
sioner, three Assessors, a body of Aldermen, and board of 
Assistant Aldermen." These officers are elected annually. 

How Situated. The city is situated in a cove, on the 
western side of the bay of San Francisco, and near the 
northern extremity of the promontory which separates that 
body of water from the main ocean, in latitude 37° 58' north, 
and longitude 122° 27' west. 

The bay is entered through a narrow strait, between 
Point Boneta on the north, and Point de los Lobos on the 
south. Along the shore of this entrance the land is uneven 
and generally high ; and it rises gradually towards the in- 



APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRYj ETC. 127 

terior, into hills of considerable altitude. This channel is 
partially obstructed by several rocks and small islands, 
which render the navigation dilQ&cult in foggy weather. In 
the bay, opposite the city, is another similar island, called 
Yerba Buena, on which there was, formerly, a Spanish fort. 
The bay proper is about forty miles in length, in a south- 
easterly direction from the city, and twelve miles in its 
average width. The waters, which extend northwardly, are 
not strictly a part of it. Since the discovery of the gold 
deposits in California, this strait has been commonly known 
as the " Golden Gate," or " El Dorado." It is about five 
miles long, and its average width is about two miles. 

The Appearance of the Country contiguous to the 
strait does not produce, on the mind of a new comer, a very 
favorable impression. As the traveller proceeds up the nar- 
rows the prospect is unrelieved by the bloom of a flower, or 
scarcely by the flutter of a green leaf. Over all the hills, 
and on all the valleys, appear either cheerless sands, a few 
scrubby oaks, or a meagre covering of pale dwarf-grass. 
To weary voyagers, who have long looked out only on the 
watery waste and overhanging sky, the approach to land is 
associated with cultivated fields, lovely cottage homes, and 
other sylvan charms ; but none of these enchantments greet 
their wandering eyes as they near this city of their golden 
dreams. 

The Approach to San Francisco is, in some respects, 
like that to Newport, in the state of Rhode Island. A high 
bluff, or headland, extending out far into the bay, obstructs 
the prospect to the south, until the vessel rounds its eastern 
extremity, when the city suddenly appears, spread out like 
a picture on an extensive flat, filling the valley from the 



128 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Avater's edge, and termiuating on the declivities of the adja- 
cent hills. 

The View from the Bay is unfavorable. Not a 
tree, shrub, nor flower greets the eye ; and nothing but long 
roAYS of buildings, clouds of dust, busj, crowded streets, and 
sand hills, as verdureless in the dry season as the Sahara, 
meet the vie-sv. 

In other respects, on a first visit to this city, strangers 
are generally agreeably disappointed. Their ideas of its 
appearance, order, and municipal rule, have been formed 
from articles which they have read in the public newspapers, 
and from the narrations of earlier voyagers. 

Kapid Change in its Appearance. Many persons, 
even at this day, associate with its name, huddles of shan- 
ties, cloth houses, '-rowdyism,*' robberies, murders, lawless 
vigilance committees, and the death penalty for all trans- 
gressions. But they soon learn that " the days of those 
things'' are passed away in San Francisco, and are chroni- 
cled only as the history of other years. 

Remembering its very recent date, the stmnger is aston- 
ished to see the large number of massive buildings which 
adorn many of the streets of the city. The original tene- 
ments are rapidly disappearing, and erections of stone, iron, 
and brick, are supplying their places. Bricks ai'e manufac- 
tured in the country, but the stone is brought from Sidney 
and China. 

The facility with which these new and costly edifices are 
erected, casts far into the shade all that has been seen of 
city improvements in the Atlantic states. In their dimen- 
sions and architectural beauty, many of tlie new structures 
will compare fiivorably with those devoted to similar pur- 
poses at the east; though, in genei-al, regard is liad more to 



RIGHTS OF PERSON AND PROPERTY. 129 

durability and protection from fire, tlian to ornament or 
taste. 

Its present Appearance. Many parts of the city 
have now the appearance of an old town ; and, in passing 
through them, one often forgets that he is not in New York 
or Boston ! The crowds on the side- walks, the rattle of 
drays, the display of hacks, the roll of omnibuses, the ring- 
ing of bells, the fruit-stands on the corners of the streets, 
the cries of the various pedlars of small wares and knick- 
knacks, the long wharves loaded with merchandise, and the 
spacious harbor dotted all over and alive with the shipping 
of every clime, indicate a city, the origin of which might be 
covered with the dusts of time. But this is San Francisco, 
and these are the evidences of its energy and thrift, in the 
fifth year of its existence ! 

Rights of Person and Property. These are as se- 
cure here, and the violation of either is redressed with as 
high a regard to the forms and principles of law, as in any 
other city in the American Union. A more vigilant or a 
better organized police cannot be found in any city. For 
so numerous a population, crime is remarkably rare. This 
result is secured by the certainty of punishment, which 
always attends detection and conviction. Both the civil 
and the criminal branches of the law have, it is true, those 
imperfections which are incident to every new system ; but 
the promptness with which these are corrected, on discovery, 
shows that the people are desirous to enjoy, ultimately, the 
blessings of an efficient, sound, and pure judiciary. 

Security from Fire. The city is now considered as 
secure against extensive conflagrations. So severely have 
the citizens suffered from this cause in times past, that an 
efficient fire department has become an object of most serious 



130 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

importance. Three great fires have occurred in the city, and 
two of them, from the vast amount of property which was 
destroyed, are worthy of particular notice. One of these, 
on the night of the 3d of May, 1851, extended east and 
west from Dupont to Battery street, and north and south 
from Broadway to Pine street, including sixteen entire 
squares and parts of four others. The value of the property 
then destroyed was estimated in San Francisco at $10,000,- 
000 ! The other fire originated on Pacific street, in the 
forenoon of June 27th, 1851, and swept from Powell nearly 
to Sansome street, in one direction, and from Broadway to 
Clay street, m the other direction, consuming eight whole 
squares, and parts of seven others, including several new 
churches, the City Hall, and Hospital, and involving the 
loss of $3,000,000 ! The number of fire-proof buildings, 
now erected on almost every street, will largely contribute 
to cljeck the spreading of that destructive element in the 
future. The city has now fourteen large fire companies, 
furnished with twelve engines of the most approved pattern, 
three hook and ladder trucks, and all other necessary appli- 
ances. The individual members of these companies possess 
also the very rare but always indispensable prerequisite of 
' the wish and the will " to be serviceable. With this good 
provision against the danger, the first stroke of the fire bell 
also starts every citizen, as if by an electric shock. This 
sensitiveness of the community in respect to fires is an ex- 
cellent preventive ; and it is nurtured by the fact that no 
insurance can here be efiected on property ; men of wealth 
are unwilling to embark in companies formed to take haz- 
ards of insurance against loss by fire. 

The "Fire Bell" has been mentioned, and the sig- 
nificance of its voice. That bell is an object of peculiar 



' PLAN OF THE CITY. 131 

interest, and will long be celebrated in the annals of the 
town. It now hangs on the City Hall, opposite the plaza, 
or public square ; but formerly it was heard from the cor- 
ner of Sansome and Burke streets. In its former location 
it often startled the citizens by a more solemn announce- 
ment, and summoned them to more appalling scenes than 
even to a general conflagration. Then it was the organ of 
the celebrated " Committee of Vigilance," — a self-consti- 
tuted tribunal, which, for a season, here exercised usurped 
judicial functions, and the history of which will be given in 
a subsequent chapter. Every peal of this bell announced a 
victim — guilty of some crime, it may be, but, nevertheless, 
a victim of an indefensible usurpation. This bell convened 
the committee ; and if, in their opinion, the public safety 
required a human sacrifice, this bell also notified that pub- 
lic of the set time for the immolation. 

The Plan of the City resembles, in some respects, 
that of the old Spanish towns. It has one principal plaza, 
or public ground, called Portsmouth square, situated in the 
central part of the city, and on which fronts the City Hall. 
There are several other plazas at more remote points. The 
streets are narrow, and intersect at right angles — about 
forty extending from the bay westerly over the hills, and 
about twenty extending from hill to hill, north and south, 
across the city. Many of these thoroughfares are com- 
pactly lined with buildings, on both sides, for the distance 
of more than a mile ; and on all the others, cottages and 
various erections exist in considerable numbers. 

Streets. The principal business streets lying north and 
south are Front, Battery, Sansome, Montgomery, Kearney, 
Dupont, Stockton, and Powell streets ; and those lying east 
and west are Valleyjo, Broadway, Pacific, Jackson, Wash- 



132 DESCRiraiON OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

ington, Clay, Commercial, California, Pine. Bush, Sutter, 
and Market streets. 

Wharves. The principal public wharves are Market, 
Central, PaciiBic, and Broadway wharves, — they being ex- 
tensions of the streets of the same names. Besides these, 
there are Cunningham's, Buckelow's, Law's, and Cowel's, 
private wharves. 

The City Hall is a large, commodious and stately edi- 
fice, fronting on Poi-tsmouth square. It is about one hun- 
dred and fifty feet deep by one hundred broad — enclosing 
a spacious court, and constructed of brick, faced on the 
front with Sidney stone. This stone is gray and darkly 
clouded, and imparts to the building a sombre and solid ap- 
peai-ance. The hall has four stories, with commodious 
apartments. These are tastefully fitted up and furnished 
for the accommodation of the state and city courts, and the 
various public offices. It contains a library, which now 
numbers 3500 volumes of law books, and about 1000 mis- 
cellaneous volumes. The city prison also is in this hall. 

Churches. San Francisco contains eighteen churches, 
several of which are tasteful specimens of architectural skill. 
The Methodists have five churches ; the Presbyterians, Epis- 
copalians, Baptists, and Roman Catholics, have each two; 
the Unitarians, one; and the '' Sons of the Sea" have a 
'^ Bethel," which is moored in the bay. 

INIarkets. The city contains three public and several 
private markets — specimens of neatness and order, and 
none in the world are more abundantly supplied with all 
the necessaries, or with a greater variety of the luxuries of 
life. There may be obtained the cured provisions, the 
fruits, and many of the vegetables, of almost every clime. 
With China, the East and 'Vyest Indies, South and Central 



/ 



133 

America, Mexico, the Sandwich Islands, Australia, the At- 
lantic American states, and Europe, the communication of 
this city is direct and constant ; and all these countries con- 
tribute to the supply of its markets. A visit to them is not 
only interesting but instructive. They exhibit the produc- 
tions and the rarities of the four quarters of the globe — 
being near the centre of the commercial world. The mar- 
kets of New York, although more extensive establishments, 
do not afford so great a variety as those of this city. 

Newspapers. There are here published twelve daily 
newspapers, two tri-weeklies, six weeklies, one commercial, 
one French, and one Sunday paper. 

Baths. Good public baths are numerous, and some of 
them are tastefully arranged and furnished. Nothing east 
of the mountains will be found to exceed them. 

Motive Power. The motive power here is steam ; and 
a large number of manufacturing establishments are in 
active operation. The suburbs of the city already resemble 
those of Birmingham or Pittsburg — the manufactories being 
confined to works in iron and wood. Ship-building has 
commenced, and will soon be a prominent branch of suc- 
cessful industry. 

Manufacture of Jewelry. It is believed that a larger 
value in gold is here wrought into jewelry than in any other 
city in North America ; and that the richest and most ex- 
pensive articles are here manufactured. The amount of gold 
wrought, as well as in its native state, here daily exposed 
in jewellers' and other shops, must equal several millions 
of dollars. 

It is stated by some writer that all the gold in the world 
could be contained in a room twenty-four feet square by six- 
teen in height ; and all which has been yet found in Cali- 
12 



134 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

fornia and Australia would only fill an iron safe of nine 
feet cubed. This estimate assumes the value of a cubic 
yard of gold to be $10,000,000. But this calculation, the 
last especially, must have been made at an earlier day in the 
history of gold-digging in those countries, than the present. 

The Commerce of San Francisco is with every civilized 
nation, and the aggregate of foreign and domestic trade is 
very large. The most wealthy bankers of the world have 
oflSces and representatives in the city ; and it is estimated 
that $5,000,000 of foreign capital are now here employed. 
Money commands from five to ten per cent, a month. Gold, 
tlie great production for exportation, is rapidly populating 
the interior ; and all the necessary merchandise for that 
population, augmenting in quantity with every succeeding 
year, is received through this port. Not only the ordinary 
supplies for 300,000 inhabitants now in the country and 
connected with all the trades and other pursuits of life, but 
also a numerous variety of articles, peculiar to the business 
of mining and the condition of the country, are here to be 
supplied. 
The total amount of imports in the year 1853 

were $35,000,000 

Exports— Gold Dust, . . . $60,000,000 
'' Quicksilver, . . . 683,185 

.$60,683,185 

Freight to vessels coming into port, . . . $11,752,084 
Duties collected at Custom House, . . . $2,581,975 
No. of persons arriving at the port, . . . 35,000 

" " leaving, 30,000 

Vessels arrived during the year, . . . . 1,028 

Departures, 1,653 

In a commercial point of view, San Francisco may be 



ETC. 135 

regarded as the whole of California and of the adjoining ter- 
ritories, excepting Oregon. 

Taxable Property. The amount of taxable city prop- 
erty, in the year 1853, was |40,000,000, while that of 
the preceding year was only $20,000,000. Real estate, 
merchandise of every description, and labor, are in demand 
at extravagant prices — prices higher than the demand for 
property will justify, on any legitimate permanent basis of 
calculation ; and the laws of trade must ultimately reduce 
them to a more reasonable standard. 

True, property is always worth what it will bring in the 
market, and that price is the gauge of its value ; but it is 
equally true that the price of property depends not only 
on the supply and demand, but essentially on the money 
market. 

It needs no seer to discover that several causes now oper- 
ating will, before the lapse of a very long time, largely 
reduce the amount of money now here in active circulation ; 
and, when that event occurs, the prices of property and 
labor — which, of course, affect the expenses of living — 
must correspondingly fall. It will be remembered that the 
state, by its constitution, prohibits the circulation of paper 
currency — a fact which will facilitate the result here pre- 
dicted. It is also worthy of note, that a large proportion 
of the gold now in circulation here is not the national coin 
of any government, but is native gold, assayed on private 
account and circulated as money. Withdraw even that sup- 
ply, and the want of coin would now be seriously felt in the 
circles of ordinary commerce. 

Present Prices. That prices in San Francisco may be 
compared with those of other cities of an equal population, 
several examples are here given. 



136 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

A small half house, rent per month, . . . $250 00 
A single room in do., for lodging do., . . 50 to 75 00 
A first-class store-room, per month, .... 2,000 00 

Common labor, per day, 5 00 

Mechanical (skilful), per day, 10 00 

Physician's visit, single, 10 00 

Extracting a tooth, 5 00 

A lawyer's word of counsel, 10 00 

Drawing a deed, bond, or mortgage, ... 25 00 

Special conveyances, 50 to 100 00 

Board, without lodging, per week, . . . 15 " 20 00 

Washing, per dozen, 400 

Hair-cutting, 1 00 

Shaving, 50 

Eggs, per dozen (fresh), 3 00 

Chickens, each, 1 50 

Horse to ride, 5 00 

Horse and buggy, 10 00 

Horse on the Sabbath, 16 00 

Double carriage and driver, 16 00 

Do. on the Sabbath, 20 00 

A cow, from 100 to 300 00 

A horse " 300 " 1,000 00 

A hat, 10 00 

Shoes, per pair, 3 00 

Boots, " " 10 00 

Cleaning watch, 6 00 

Do. with repairs, 12 00 

Gold watches, from 100 to 8,000 00 

Kings and pins, " 25 " 1,000 00 

Pants, 10 '' 20 00 

Dress coat, . 30 " 60 00 



PRESENT PRICES. 137 

Over-coat, $35 to 60 00 

Shirts, per dozen, 50 " 70 00 

A plain stock, 2 50 " 5 00 

Paper, per ream, . 10 00 

Hay, per ton, 30 to 50 00 

Milk, per quart, 50 

Butter, per pound, imported, , 50 

Domestic, do., 1 00 

Cream, per quart, 4 00 

Potatoes, per pound (now extra cheap), ... 5 

Turnips, '' '' ''"''... 7 

Butcher's beef, per pound, 12 cts. to 30 

Fresh pork, " '^ 15 " " 40 

Salted " mess, '' " 40 

Water, for domestic use, per pail, 10 

Hams, per barrel, 29 00 

Bacon, '' '' 25 00 

Best pears, each, 10 

Best Chili apples, each, 10 

Second quality pears and apples, 5 

Cheese, per pound, imported, 30 

Domestic, do 50 

Wood, prepared for stove, per cord, . . 25 to 35 00 

Flour, per barrel, from 12 " 45 00 

Corn, " " $9, per pound, 8 

Sandwich Island oranges (best), each, ... 25 

Brick, per thousand, from 25 to 30 00 

Lumber, '' " " 80 " 150 00 

In forming this catalogue, only the common articles of 
trade have been selected, but every other commodity is on 

the same scale. 

12* 



138 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Future Prospects. San Francisco has, in its location 
and unrivalled harbor, elements of prosperity which cannot 
be overcome by any other point on this coast. It will in- 
evitably become, on the Pacific, what New York is on the 
Atlantic. Whether or not a railway be laid across the 
continent, this city must be the emporium of a large and 
constantly increasing trade with the rising cities and towns 
in the interior of this state, with Oregon, and with the 
adjoining territories. A large proportion of all the supplies, 
which will be required to support the trade of the millions 
who will ultimately populate those immense regions, must 
pass through this port, and must be here transshipped. 

Should railway communication be constructed between 
the Pacific and Atlantic, the commerce of India, China, and 
Australia, with the Atlantic states of America, and even 
with western Europe, would pay large tribute to San Fran- 
cisco, — it being generally conceded that this city is the most 
natural terminus for the Pacific Railway. But should that 
communication be laid to San Diego, the result would not be 
much difierent. Private enterprise in this city would im- 
mediately open a similar communication from it to tha,t 
point, and then the greater economy of time and freight, in 
conveyance by railway than by the ocean, would reduce San 
Diego to a mere intermediate station. Trans-shipment of 
westward freight would not, as a general custom, be made 
at San Diego, to be again made at San Francisco where the 
largest part of all the merchandise is bound, for conveyance 
on the rivers into the interior. 

Its Climate. The climate of this city is peculiar. A 
strong, cool breeze, during the dry season, rises every 
morning at about nine o'clock, and continues until about 
sunset. This breeze does not extend far into the interior, and 



THE CLIMATE. 139 

is limited to about seven miles north and south of the city ; 
nor is it felt in the valley of Contra Costa, across the bay. 
This peculiarity of climate is attributed to the ocean current 
of wind, which rises from the north-west every morning as 
the heat of the sun increases the temperature inland. This 
wind can blow in, unobstructed through the strait, while 
other parts of the interior, north and south of the city, are 
materially shielded against its effects by the high lands on 
the shore. 

During the winter, the winds blow from the south-west ; 
and being charged with the ocean moisture, bring the mild 
showers of that season. These winds, and the absence, in a 
great degree, of the north-west breeze, so temper and soften 
the atmosphere as to render it more agreeable than that of 
summer. Then, the streets and surrounding hills being 
composed of light sand, this breeze blows it in thick clouds 
over the city, and never fails — in the nose, eyes, and ears, 
of the citizens, to say nothing of soiled silks, satins, gauzes, 
linens, and broadcloths — to leave abundant evidence of its 
presence. But this summer-breeze is doubtless conducive to 
health. It reduces the mid-day temperature, which, but for 
its influence, would be very sultry, to a uniformity with 
that of the mornings and evenings, which are, almost with- 
out variation, cool and bracing. 

Woollen clothing is in use here throughout the year. 
Gentlemen clad in over-coats, and sometimes even in furs, 
may be seen in the streets on almost any day ; and the dress, 
in this respect, quite surely indicates the latitude of which 
the wearer is a native. 

The degree of the heat ordinarily ranges, during the dry 
season, between a monthly mean temperature of 56° and 62°: 
and September is accounted the month in which the ther- 



140 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

mometer usually rises the highest. On a few days in that 
month the mercury has stood at 98° ; which is, I believe, 
the maximum for the last three years. These warm days 
are few, and sometimes occur in April and June. The 
temperature of the wet season ranges between the means of 
49° and 56°. 

The summer evenings in San Francisco are delightful. 
The breeze is then still, the dust is laid, and the absent sun 
has left the temperature cool, but mild and balmy ; the sky 
being generally clear, so that the moon and stars shine forth 
with remarkable brightness. The beauty and fashion of the 
city are then abroad to enjoy the scene ; and mirth and 
gayety rule the hour. I can fancy that the Muse of Mont- 
gomery must, in some Olympian flight, have caught a glimpse 
of this golden land, and felt the soft influence of its evening 
charms, when he sang so sweetly his beautiful ode on 
" Night." Surely no person needs " a talent for sleeping " 
in San Francisco. The invalid has only to open his window 
and allow the soft wings of night to flutter in his cham- 
ber, 

" Stretch tlie tired limbs and lay tlie head 
Down on his own delightful bed." 

Unless " sleep has departed from the eyes, and slumber from 
the eyelids,'' forever, the sick here will soon forget the 
languors of the day, and be wandering pleasantly in '' Dream 
Land." 

Very satisfactory evidence of the salubrity of the city is 
contained in its bills of mortality, — the average number of 
deaths in it being less yearly than those in any other city, 
of equal population, in the Union. 

Mountain Lake. The citizens of San Francisco are 



STREETS. 141 

inspired with a laudable ambition to beautify and improve 
it. A company is already organized to bring into it the 
water of Mountain lake, and the work is in successful 
progress. This improvement is much needed; water for 
domestic use is very scarce and expensive. The lake is 
situated about four miles out of town, and will afford an 
abundant supply. Its elevation is sufficient to give a rapid 
current to the duct of water ; and the head, it is believed, 
will sustain a fountain in the principal plaza. If that 
expectation shall be realized, and the plaza shall be orna- 
mented according to either of several plans which have been 
submitted to the corporate authorities, it will be the most 
charming "green spot" on this western coast. 

Streets and Sidewalks. All the principal thorough- 
fares are now substantially planked ; and the substitution 
of stone pavement is commenced at several points. This 
improvement was absolutely indispensable, as a defence 
against the waves of rolling sand which would otherwise 
render the streets heavy, if not unendurable. Good side- 
walks are provided in all the compact districts of the city. 
Much of the material used in their construction is brick ; 
but many portions are laid with fine stone, and long lines 
of plank are to be seen on every side. 

A gas company is also formed, and the stock taken. The 
streets of the infant city were first lighted with gas early in 
the present year. 

Reclaimed Streets. Several long streets, reclaimed 
from the waters of the bay in the lower sections of the town, 
are now lined with spacious warehouses and other stores, 
some of which are constructed of brick and others of stone 
or iron. When it is remembered that only two years ago 



142 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

the angry -waves of the bay were lashing the strand as far 
up into the city as Montgomery street, and that now, four 
broad avenues and several alleys lie between that original 
limit and the present water-line, the labor which that single 
improvement must have employed, and the energy required 
for its execution in so short a time, appeal*, as they really 
are, herculean. 

The State Hospital is located in this city ; and its 
arrangements, provision and attendance, reflect the highest 
credit on the state. 

Sources of Supply. Reference has already been made 
to the public markets ; but a more particular notice of the 
sources of their supply may not be uninteresting. Though 
the soil around the city is unproductive, yet the old mission 
and national farms, and the lands in the vicinity of the 
pueblos or towns, were selected originally for their superior 
fertility, and have been settled and cultivated for a long 
series of years. Eut the valley of the Sacramento is not 
yet much occupied, and contributes, of course, little com- 
paratively, to the marketable supply. Considerable portions 
of the lands around Santa Barbara, Los xlngeles, San Diego, 
San Jose, Santa Clara, Dolores, and in the Contra Costa 
valley, have been improved by long though not very skilful 
cultivation. The most serious obstacle to their profitable 
culture for the supply of the markets during the whole year, 
on large portions of them, is the expense of necessary irri- 
gation in the dry season ; but the enterprise which has cre- 
ated the market, is active in superseding the old Mexican 
regime J by agricultural science and experience. 

Fruits, roots, and other culinary vegetables from the 
.Atlantic states and South America, have been introduced 



SOURCES OF SUPPLY. 143 

upon these lands, and the markets of the city already draw 
the principal part of the necessary supply from this domes- 
tic production. 

Vegetables and tropical fruits are also brought from the 
Sandwich Islands, apples and pears from Chili and Syd- 
ney, and various luxuries from Mexico and South America. 
Butter, cheese, eggs, and bacon, are obtained from New 
York and Boston ; and lard, and a large variety of cured 
provisions, from China. 

California produces most delicious pears and grapes, 
abundance of game and fish, but an inferior oyster. The 
salmon of the Sacramento cannot be exceeded in size or 
excellence of flavor. Ice is imported from Boston ; but the 
principal supply is obtained from the Sitka Isles, lying off 
the Pacific coast of Russian America. Imported hens do 
not propagate with success in California, especially on the 
coast ; it is said that their young die without any apparent 
cause. The reason of the failure is not ascertained, and is 
an important question for examination. This accounts for 
the high prices of that kind of poultry, and of eggs, in the 
market. Vast quantities of gull's eggs are sold as a sub- 
stitute for the better article. They are nearly as large as 
those of the goose, and are of various colors. Oysters are 
not yet grown in the waters of this country. Several ex- 
periments have been made, but have proved failures. Pork, 
beef, and mutton, are plenty, but are of inferior quality, the 
country not being well supplied with the best of stock, 
which must be obtained from the western states and be 
driven across the plains. A portion of the supply of corn 
and meal has to be imported. It is not yet grown success- 
fully in many parts of this state ; but intelligent farmers 
believe it will become a sure crop, when the climate and 



144 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

proper time of planting are better understood. Fresh 
peaches and plums are seen in the markets only in very 
limited quantities ; but, in the dried or preserved form, they 
are abundantly imported. Domestic butter and cheese can 
be obtained, but the supply is small and the price so high 
as to forbid their use, except as a luxury. The country is 
not yet well provided with milch cows ; and the long dura- 
tion of the dry season greatly increases the cost of their 
feed, and materially diminishes the quantity of their milk : 
hence the high prices of all the productions of the home 
dairy. The hay of the country is the native grass, and the 
wild oats of the plains and mountains. There is no limit to 
this supply. Both are cut and cured, as hay is made in the 
Atlantic states, and are fed to the cows with bran or meal, 
through the last two or three months of the dry seasons. 
Yet, notwithstanding the high prices of marketable provis- 
ions, no people in the world live " faster " or more sump- 
tuously than the citizens of San Francisco. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Public Morals, Social Customs, Religious Societies and Institutions, Cem- 
etery, Country contiguous and around the Bay, Vigilance Committee, 
Quicksilver Mine. 

One view of San Francisco has been given in the preced- 
ing chapter; but, to present the whole picture, another 
curtain must be raised. I refer to the moral, literary, social, 
and religious condition of this anomalous city, which, like 
Jonah's gourd, is comparatively the growth of a night. 

Material of its Population. Its population is from 
almost every nation. With few exceptions, the first foreign 
arrivals were not the best specimens of their respective 
nations, nor the most proper material to form the nucleus 
of a prosperous state — being from the lower classes of Aus- 
tralia, China, France, Mexico, Spain, Central and South 
America, and the Sandwich Islands. But native citizens 
of the United States also came, and brought with them the 
love of those great principles of morals and liberty in which 
they had been educated, and which are the basis of the great- 
ness and glory of their native land. The latter, probably, 
were in a minority at the end of a few months of emigra- 
tion ; but their force of character gave them the ascendency 
in the management of public affairs. 

Standard of Morals. These foreign masses intro- 
duced, on this new theatre, their social habits and practices, 
as well as their disregard of the rights of person and prop- 
erty; and the seeds of immorality and vice, thus scattered 
13 



146 DESCRIPTION or SAN FRANCISCO. 

broad-cast over the moral and social fields, were permitted 
to take deep root and yegetate. The consequence was the 
implied sanction, at least, of a low standard of private vii'tue 
by those whose duty it was to guard that vital element of 
public prosperity with uncompromising vigilance. It is 
needless to add, that, without high moral principle in the 
individual, there can be no permanent public virtue or 
security. As the majority of the population did not, in the 
beginning, possess this element, the natural consequences 
followed : and no city on this continent has equalled San 
Francisco in the prevalence of gambling, intemperance, 
licentiousness, and kindred evils. A decided improvement 
in public morals is said to have been made during the last 
year ; but, whoever, even now, takes a stroll through its 
streets, by night or by day, will be convinced that the 
unenviable reputation it has acquired is well deserved. 
What, then, is its condition at the present time 1 

Theatricals. The city supports three theatres, two of 
which are open every night of the seven in the week, and 
many of the representations on the boards pamper to the 
lowest passions. 

Drinking Saloons. Ai-dent spirits, wine, and beer, 
are more generally used as a beverage in San Francisco 
than in any other city, perhaps, in the United States. 
About six hundred drinking-houses are so well sustained 
that the proprietors are made rich. Many of these places 
are attended, and frequented, by women, often luxuriously 
attired, who chat, and smoke, and smile, over the convivial 
glass, with as much zest and indifference as they would 
exhibit in the observance of any modest ceremony. These 
saloons are not unfrequently provided with a retiring room, 
where customei-s of both sexes while away the night with 



GAMING. 147 

music, dancing, gaming and drinking ; and the walls of 
many of these rooms are adorned in a manner which our 
puritan mothers would not have approved. 

Licentiousness. A faithful recital of the prevalent 
licentiousness of this city cannot with propriety he placed 
on the pages of any book. The windows and doors of 
many dwellings, and even the public streets, at noon day 
as well as at night, testify to an excess of immorality far 
exceeding that to be found in other American cities ; 
the bearing, address and assurance, in all the public 
places, of the abandoned, a fearfully numerous class, too 
clearly shoves that, in their own belief at least, their presence 
is more than tolerated. Cities are often denominated 
^' moral sores on the body politic ;" if so, San Francisco, in 
reference to this evil, is one of the ''sorest." Its corrupt 
issues have flowed to the extremities of the state, and into 
all the cities and villages far up in the mountains of the gold 
region. 

Gaming. The city contains at least six gaming houses, 
conducted on a magnificent scale, besides many smaller 
ones. These are sanctioned by law, — the practice of a few 
games only being inhibited. The state has recognized 
gambling as an employment, and has placed it on an 
equality of legal respectability with ordinary business, by 
imposing the obligation of a license upon many of the occu- 
pations of life, and including this in the list ; which is cer- 
tainly strange legislation for the middle of the nineteenth 
century, and for a state governed by American citizens. 

During the day, and until late at night, these houses are 
thronged with the old and young, who there drink, and 
occasionally win money, but are oftener beggared. The 
large saloons contain from six to ten tables each, and 



148 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

the smaller ones from one to three. On one occasion, a 
computation, as near as could be, was made of the money 
then in bank on the monte tables, and the aggregate exceeded 
two hundred thousand dollars. More than that sum was in 
stake at other games. 

The Chinese have their separate sports among themselves, 
and are great gamblers. Indeed, it is scarcely more natural 
for a Chinaman, Mexican, Spaniard, or Chilian to eat, than 
to gamble. The city swarms with the Chinese, and they 
have their small dark rooms, in which they eat, drink spirits, 
and sport. They are very clannish, and congregate in par- 
ticular localities. This characteristic enables the curious 
to go among them, and learn their manners, customs, trades, 
habits, virtues and vices, almost as usefully and satisfac- 
torily as they could be learned on a visit to their own 
country. These people are very friendly, and are pleased 
to explain all their customs and practices for the improve- 
ment of " outer barbarians ; " — evidently feeling that they 
are the superior race. 

The following brief descriptions of two of these gaming 
houses, — an American and a Chinese, — will portray the 
manner of life pursued in this city by at least five or six 
thousand persons. 

American Gaming House. Several fashionably-dressed 
men, earnestly engaged in conversation, may be seen stand- 
ing on the sidewalk before a lofty door-way. Others are 
passing out and in. We are prevented from taking a view 
of the interior by a tall screen, of beautiful workmanship, 
placed a few feet within the portal. We enter and pass behind 
this mute sentinel. Now we behold a spacious hall, perhaps 
fifty feet by eighty in size. The walls are richly furnished, 
and in the centre of each side is suspended a magnificently- 



AMERICAN GAMING HOUSE. 149 

gilded mirror, of the largest size. From the ceiling above 
hang in clusters many solar lamps, sparkling with brilliants, 
and on the sides and ends of the room are smaller lights of 
similar finish. In one corner is a spacious " bar," elabor- 
ately embellished ; and on its shelves are tastefully arranged, 
among a profusion of flowers and images of beasts and birds, 
hundreds of decanters, adorned with shining labels, and 
filled with tempting wines and other beverages of the most 
popular brands. Behind the counter are young men, attired 
with special taste and neatness, actively serving the ever- 
changing throng that worship at the shrine of Bacchus. Op- 
posite, and elevated midway between the floor and ceiling, is an 
orchestra, on which are a piano and six ''players on instru- 
ments," who are filling the spacious hall with the sweetest 
airs of their art. On the broad floor are arranged at proper 
distances eight large tables, covered with broadcloth, and on 
each is a pile of gold and silver coin, varying in amount from 
five thousand to ten thousand dollars. One of the tables is 
placed just before the screen, and another in range with it 
at the opposite end of the room. At each of these is seated a 
" lady," superbly clad, who smiles invitingly on every one. 
She gracefully waves her fair hand, sparkling with diamonds 
and gold, as an invitation to gentlemen to be seated, and to 
try their luck to win her '' pile," or lose their own. These 
"ladies" are in the service of the proprietor, and their 
wins are his gains. The "green one " who yields to the 
fascinations of these Delilahs, will surely be deprived of 
his golden strength. At the other tables are seated gentle- 
men who are playing, perhaps, for a very large stake, and 
whose mental disquiet is plainly visible in their faces, as 
the chances of the game vacillates between them. Hun- 
dreds are looking on, apparently interested in the result, 
13^ 



150 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

and betraying equally anxious apprehensions. Indelicate 
representations, upon the walls of the spacious saloon, are 
not wanting to complete the scene. It would seem that the 
designer of such pictui'es must have burned the '• midnight 
oil " long over the pages of Horace and Ovid ; and that the 
man who can display them, and the female especially who 
can tolerate the act by her presence, must have strangely 
forgotten, if, indeed, they ever learned, the distinctions 
between virtue and vice. 

Chinese GAMiNa House. Let us now enter a house 
of this kind, conducted by a Chinaman. Here is a row of 
frame buildings, two stories in height, with their sharp, 
steep roofs, presenting pointed gables to the street, and, as 
they rise in long succession, resembling the teeth of a huge 
saw. Attached to the upper story of each is a verandah, 
extending over the sidewalk, and rising to the height of 
the peaks. The spaces between the slender columns are so 
finished that the whole resembles a long series of open gate- 
ways, or doors ; and before each hangs a solar lamp, which, 
in the evening, is in full blaze. Within is no ornament, 
but all is as dingy as the faces that greet the visitor. In 
the room on the first floor are long, narrow tables, coarsely 
made, and in the centre of each is a pile of circular metallic 
plates, about an inch in diameter, with a hole in their centre. 
On each table stands a metallic burner, of very odd, though 
simple, construction. It resembles an old-fashioned iron 
candlestick, with an open vessel on the top, like a large 
saucer, in which the oil is deposited. In this vessel a large 
number of wicks are laid side by side, extending across it 
and rising about half an inch above the rim at one end, and 
nearly covering the bottom. The elevated extremities of 
these wicks are lighted. Around the oil vessel, and at the 



CHINESE DANCING SALOON. 151 

distance of about six inches from it, is a side shade, com- 
posed of oiled paper about four inches wide, and supported 
by wires passing into tubes attached to the broad, pan- 
like bottom of the lamps. This light is called " tong-toj." 
The lamps, and the delicate ^^ cigarettes ^''^ carefully rolled 
in white paper, and called " ins^^^ which the Chinese offer 
to every visitor, and constantly smoke, render the walls of 
the room as dark as the complexions of the orientals. Around 
each table stand ten or fifteen Chinese, while many others 
are passing in and out. At one end of the table sits the 
owner, with a pile of gold and silver coin before him, and 
at liis side stands a man, holding a short stick, who is the 
operator in the game. In the centre of the table is a piece 
of gilt cloth about a foot square, and between it and the opera- 
tor lie about two hundred Chinese coin, or chins ^ about the 
size of a cent, with a square hole in their centre. When the 
game begins, the bet, which may be any sum, is staked with 
the owner of the table, and as many may enter the circle as 
choose to risk their money. The corners of the gilt cloth are 
numbered from one to four, and the bet is made by ' ' board- 
ing" the stake on either of the numbers. When they are 
''all down " the operator takes up a handful of the chins, 
lays them before him, and with the stick moves them in fours 
towards himself, until the whole number laid before him are 
thus moved. If the number of cliins which remain after 
the last series of fours has been moved, is odd, those parties 
whose money is laid on the odd numbers win the stakes, and 
tlie owner loses as much money as has been placed there, 
but he wins as much as the amount placed on all the even 
numbers. If no money is staked on the former numbers, 
he wins the whole stakes. This is the fashionable Chinese 
game, and is called fonton. It has, at least, the merit of 
fair chances for all the parties, 



152 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Chinese Dancing Saloon. Now let us go into the 
second story. Here is a long, but plain room. On the 
sides are coarse benches, on which are reclining a number 
of Chinese lasses, richly attired in silks of various colors, 
after the fashion of their country. Their trousers are 
mostly white, not very full, but heavy around the ankle, 
with ingenious needle-work. Their shoes are of silk, with 
thick, pure white soles. Their principal garment, either 
black, blue or green, and not made very full, extends to 
the knee, and is also elaborately wTOught with the needle. 
It fits closely to the neck, and is fastened with a rich pin. 
This garment is not confined to the waist. Their long, 
glossy, black hair is combed sternly back, and bound in a 
knot on the crown. Each one wears a necklace, and a 
profusion of rings. The Chinese women are short in stature, 
and are by no means beautiful. At one end of the long 
room is a raised platform, on which are seated several musi- 
cians, each having a stringed instrument of singular con- 
struction, resembling a violin, except that the sounding- 
board is circular and small. It is an instrument of two 
strings, which cross each other below the centre. The bow- 
string is applied below the crossing ; or it is played with the 
fingers like the tambourine or banjo. The music made 
with the bow-string resembles that of the vegetable fiddle, 
with which lads are familiar in the gleesome days of child- 
hood. Suspended by a cord, hangs the discordant gong. 
Another instrument resembles a large wooden bowl, in the 
bottom of which is a circular opening, and over this is 
strained a hard, dried skin, in the form of a drum-head. 
It is the Chinese drum, and is played with sticks, discours- 
ing music about as inspiring as the ticking of a stout marine 
clock. The performers are males, neatly dressed in silks, 



CHINESE DANCING SALOON. 153 

similarly to the females, except that the trousers fit more 
closely to their limbs. Like all the Chinamen, their heads 
are shaved to the crown, and from that point, when they 
stand erect, their hair extends, in a long, black braid, nearly 
to the floor, the end of the cue being tastefully ornamented 
with ribbons. This appendage is the Chinaman's chief 
honor, and in defence of it he will even sacrifice his life. 
Another personage, habited in sky-blue silk, sits near, like 
a tailor on his work-table. He holds a paper, about a foot 
in width by four feet in length, covered with rows of Chinese 
characters, and folded about three inches wide, like a fan. 
This is a book of songs, and the person is a singer — the 
paper unfolding as he progresses in the performance. Now 
commences the dance ; the young Chinamen, to the number 
of ten, each leads a lass upon the floor, and turns with much 
dignity to the tawny amateurs who are busily tuning their 
instruments. At this moment, another character, in green 
apparel, and not before observed, advances, with a very au- 
thoritative air, to a position on the right hand of the music 
and the figure. He looks about the room, appears to com- 
mand silence, and, at the stamp of his foot, the exercises 
commence, with a promptness, regularity, lightness, ease, 
and grace, which the " outer barbarian " visitor is not pre- 
pared to witness. 

It is sometimes asserted that the Chinese never dance, 
and probably the higher castes of the pure race do not. The 
amusement is by them esteemed a vulgarity. The Chinese 
in San Francisco are of the Tartar blood, and their dances, 
like their games, music, and money, are unlike those of any 
other people ; and consist, principally, in advancing and 
receding, changing sides, and moving down the figure, keep- 
ing constantly a kind of ambling step or motion with the 



154 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

feet, and bowing slightly as they pass each other. They 
never join hands in the dance, and appear carefully to avoid 
any contact. Whether this caution arises from a feeling of 
superiority on the part of the males, or from respect for the 
females, is a question for the curious. The singer makes an 
odd exhibition of himself, sitting, as before described, with 
eyes riveted to his book, which he unfolds as he proceeds — 
carefully refolding the extending end to render the condition 
of his volume convenient. His voice is like that of a squall- 
ing child, while he shakes his head, screws his face, and 
stretches his jaws, as if really in great distress. After pass- 
ing, in the same manner, several times up and down the 
figure, various couples leave it and retire to an adjoining 
apartment, while their places are filled up by others. 

Chinese Restaurant. This retiring room is a restau- 
rant, and contains several circular tables, each sufficiently 
large to accommodate four persons. These tables are neatly 
spread in characteristic style, and are attended by males. 
In the centre of each table is a large earthen dish of meat 
soup, in which is a small metal vessel, containing ignited 
coals to keep the food warm. A pile of very small plates, 
several small saucers, an earthen ladle, two chop-sticks, and 
a bowl which will contain about as much as a common 
table-spoon, are placed for each person ; and four backless 
seats are set to each table. The variety of food is very ex- 
tensive, and consists exclusively of provisions imported from 
China. The arrangement and supply of the different tables 
are similar, and on each are set about forty different dishes 
— placed in a double circle around the soup ; and on the 
interior edges of these a third rpw is placed. The vessels 
containing this supper are all small earthen bowls. Every 
guest is provided with two metal tankards, which will hold 



CHINESE DINNER. 155 

about a pint each. In one is the universal beverage. The 
other contains wan^ a Chinese brandy. Both are warnij 
and are taken clear. No condiments are placed on the 
tables — the food being always seasoned by the cook. The 
bread is prepared in the form of pancakes, about the size of 
a silver dollar. Each cake is doubled so as to form a half 
circle, and the opening is designed, at the option of the 
guest, to be filled with one or more of the various viands — 
the whole forming a very generous mouthful. Each table 
is separated from the others by screens. 

Chinese Dinner. Being once invited, with others, by 
a Chinese acquaintance, to dine with him, the writer was 
happy to gratify his curiosity by accepting the proiFered 
hospitality. The hour appointed was 8 o'clock, p. M., and 
the guests were prompt in their attendance. The whole 
scene was unlike that of any entertainment he had ever 
before witnessed, and corresponded substantially with the 
preceding description. Being unaccustomed to the use of 
the chop-sticks, resort was had to the earthen spoon — sup- 
plying one of the small plates from dishes truly recom- 
mended by the host as very good ; for his dinner was excel- 
lent. As often as the several courses of plates were re- 
moved by the dusky attendants, they were rinsed, dried, 
and returned to the pile before us. Once in about two 
minutes we were requested to fill the miniature bowls from 
one of the tankards, and, touching the former to that of 
" mine host" across the table, we drank the contents at a 
draught, and the empty vessels were then cleansed, prepara- 
tory to a repetition of the same ceremony. The Chinese, 
generally, " sit long at the wine ; " and, judging from the 
singing, chatting, and mirth, which greatly increased 
around as the " night wore away," we suspected that one 



156 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

of the liquids contained opium, though our curious host did 
not readily admit '' the soft impeachment." Fearing the 
correctness of our mistrust, we left the table before our ap- 
petites consented — preferring the self-denial to the bewil- 
derment which might be consequent upon longer pro- 
tracted indulgence. The repast terminated with the metal 
pipe and the somniferous drug. The guests retired at mid- 
night, leaving the scene in its meridian ; and the morning 
probably dawned before the revelry ceased. Had they then 
returned, they would have met those jolly companions of 
the previous evening, "present in the body," lounging 
sillily on the benches, tables, and floor, but " absent in 
spirit" among the celestials of their own imaginings. 

The larger proportion of these gaming and other saloons 
is kept by foreigners ; in fact, the city, in its population 
and customs, is a foreign town. Citizens of the old states, 
passing through the streets of San Francisco, and noticing 
the great prevalence of dusky countenances, singular cos- 
tumes, strange languages and manners, and odd wares on 
every side, may well forget, at the moment, that they are 
in one of the states of this Union. 

Observance of the Sabbath. The Sabbath, m this 
city, is a desecrated day. The shops of the Jew. not a few 
stores even of •' the sons of the pilgrims," the drinking 
saloons, and other public resorts, are open and filled as on 
other days. The day is very generally devoted to fashion 
and pleasure. It is the set time for testing the speed of the 
noble horse over the race-course 07i the old mission 
grounds ! Hundreds are allured thither ; and drinking, 
betting and gaming prevail. The Sabbath is the favorite 
season for excursions among the green hills and over the 
bright bosom of the bay — beyond the barren sands of the 



OBSTACLES TO CHRISTIAN EFFORT. 157 

city. Even the din of mechanical labor is mingled, during 
the sacred day, with " the sound of the church-going bell ; " 
and, 

«* At the sweet evening hour," 

the confused applause of the multitudes who are profaning 
in the temples of the drama, is heard above the voice of 
prayer and praise. 

But the friends of the Sabbath here, deserve commenda- 
tion for their earnest efforts to secure the better observance 
of the day. They are yet Comparatively few, but their 
labors are unremitted to check, in every form, the progress 
of immorality and vice, and to strengthen and extend the 
healthful influence of Christian principles. The pastors of 
the several denominations are well educated, efficient and 
devoted men, and, as I am informed, cooperate cheerfully 
" in every good word and work." Having that great pur- 
pose in view, Sabbath schools, and Bible and tract societies, 
are formed. It should, however, be remarked that much 
Christian husbandry may be expended in this city, and but 
little fruit be visible, or even be produced on the field of 
labor, the population is so very changeable. The pastor's 
congregation, or people, of this year or month, may be in far 
distant countries next year or next month ; and although 
his labors may have been blessed to individuals, yet the influ- 
ence does not remain to purify or improve the public morals 
of the city. 

Obstacles to Christian Effort. The manner of 
living and the social customs here are unfavorable to the 
success of Christian efforts. For so large a population, the 
number of families residing together in the " family home" 
is remarkably small. The majority of the inhabitants are 
14 



158 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

either unmarried or live here without their families — taking 
their meals promiscuously at the restaurants, and lodging 
for a month, a week, or, perhaps, for a night only, in the 
same place. It Avill be readily seen that such society is not 
easily accessible to Christian teachers or to the operations 
of moral and religious organizations. Indeed, acquaintances 
may be about the city for months without meeting ; and, if 
they casually come together, they are not sure of another 
interview, unless a time and place are then appointed. Such 
a people may be said to have no homes — to be, literally, a 
floating population ; and if brought within any particular 
influence, the occasion must be sought by themselves. It is 
lamentably true, also, that the appropriate observance of the 
Sabbath is often " dodged" here by persons who, at home, 
are regular, and even rigid, in their observance of it. The 
people have all come to gather gold ; and, as they " cannot 
serve God and Mammon" at the same time, they contrive 
some conscience-quieting excuse to kneel, while here, with 
idolatrous devotion at the altar of the latter ! 

A large proportion of the foreigners, resident here, are 
persons who have been educated in papal countries, who 
know no difierent faith, and who are accustomed to the 
practices of that church — a prominent one of which is to 
make the Sabbath a holiday. Much may be successfully 
done in such a community in the cause of moral and reli- 
gious truth, while the good results are not in general a local 
blessing. 

Prevalence of Crime. From the immoral state of 
San Francisco thus existing in the beginning of its settle- 
ment, the deplorable results which ultimately followed were 
the necessary consequence. The city soon became the 
resort of desperados from every land — thieves, robbers, 



COMMITTEE OF VIGILANCE. 159 

incendiaries, and murderers, congregated there ; and crimes 
of every grade were daily perpetrated. In the spring of the 
year 1851 this state of things reached its crisis. The sev- 
eral courts of judicature, organized under the constitution, 
held almost uninterrupted sessions, and indictments and 
arrests multiplied rapidly ; but the trials progressed tardily, 
and convictions and punishments were of rare occurrence. 
The judges proceeded in the discharge of their duties accord- 
ing to the practice and rules of their respective courts. If 
the accused, on arraignment, showed good cause for the 
delay of trial until a future time, the application for post- 
ponement was granted ; if the same motion was made in 
another stage of the case, it prevailed, if, in the opinion of 
the courts, good cause was shown ; and if the jury finally 
acquitted the prisoner, the judges, of course, acquiesced. 
In some instances the accused would be " spirited away" 
without the knowledge of judges, sheriffs, or other officers ; 
and it is unquestionably true that, by various expedients, 
many rascals escaped the punishment due to their crimes. 

Formation of the Committee of Vigilance. At 
length the citizens became dissatisfied with the administra- 
tion of the laws in their courts, and, without just grounds, 
distrusted the integrity of the judges. 

About this time one Jenkins was suspected to be 
guilty of a crime, attended with aggravated circum- 
stances ; and the citizens, to the number of about 
one hundred, formed themselves into a court, styled the 
'' Committee of Vigilance." Professing to act in aid 
of the officers of the law, to secure more certain and speedy 
justice, they took this man from the custody of the courts, 
tried him immediately, and executed him capitally the same 
day. This body consisted of men who had large interests 



lt)0 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

at stake in the citj, and ranked among its most influential 
citizens. 

From this time, the committee assumed a permanent or- 
ganization, and soon its numbers swelled to five hundred. 
A constitution was adopted, defining the crimes of which it 
would take cognizance, the times of meeting for business, 
the order of proceedings, and the duties of each member. 
One quarter of the number composing the committee, was 
required in its turn to be on service, night and day, in ex- 
amining all places known to be the resorts of thieves, assas- 
sins, or other desperados ; to arrest all suspected persons, 
and to bring them before the committee, which could be 
convened for that purpose at any moment by the well-known 
stroke of the bell. Theft, robbery, and murder, chiefly 
occupied its attention ; but keepers of the resorts of idlers, 
or of mistrusted persons, did not escape its notice. Punish- 
ments were graduated according to the circumstances of 
each case, and were generally either banishment, whipping, 
or death. Sometimes the " notice to quit '* came without a 
previous trial, on mere suspicion, and was very laconic, 
thus : — 

"Mr. A. B. : You are hereby warned to leave this city 
within five days. 

" By order of the ' Committee of Vigilance.' 

" C. D., Chairman^ 

If- the person on whom this notice was served did not 
obey the order, he was sure to be shipped in the next clip- 
per that left the port for Australia, or to some other distant 
country. The committee was the executioner of its own 
decrees; and by its instrumentality a number of persons 
were hung, many were publicly whipped, and a multitude 



RESTAURANTS. 161 

were banished from the citj. So great was the terror it 
inspired, that, in a few months, San Francisco was rid of 
all that class of scoundrels to which the committee turned 
its attention. 

Although this modern ''Areopagus" was composed of 
men of high respectability, whose decisions, abstractly con- 
sidered, were distinguished for impartiality and justice 
towards their victims ; and although crime abounded in the 
city, and the guilty had often escaped punishment in the 
legitimate courts ; yet its organization and action cannot be 
justified on any sound principles. They Avere anarchic and 
revolutionary; and their apology is the overthrow of all 
security of person or property founded on constitutional 
forms and proceedings. The energy which the commit- 
tee displayed in the exercise of usurped authority might 
have been directed in aid of the courts, consistently with 
the constitution and the laws, with equal if not superior 
efficiency. 

Restaurants. Many social customs prevail here, which 
will particularly attract the attention of visitors from the 
Atlantic states. The manner of life very generally adopted 
is peculiar. Both sexes often take their daily meals at the 
restaurants, mingling, for this purpose, in the public rooms. 
Parents with their children frequently live in this manner. 
The practice arose from the fact, that, in the beginning, the 
population consisted almost wholly of males, who of neces- 
sity took their meals at public houses. Families did not 
begin to arrive in large numbers during the first two years. 
Restaurants of course multiplied, and the habit of resorting 
to them became confirmed, and still continues. Families 
arriving take rooms, and a portion of them adopt the pre- 
vailing customs which they find in respect to board. 
14* 



162 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Disproportion of Males. The disproportion between 
the males and females in the city, at this time, is remark- 
ably great. According to the census taken in the fall of 
the year 1852, its population then stood thus : — 

White males, 29,165 

" females, 5,154 

Negroes, male, 260 

" female, 52 

Mulattoes, male, 99 



" female, 33 

Indians, male, 6 

" female, 6 

34,776 
Estimated sojourners in the city 

at all times, 6,000 



Total number in 1852, .... 40,776 

Those sojourners were males, and they swell the number 
of that sex in the city, in the year 1852, to thirty-five 
thousand five hundred and thirty-one; — while the whole 
number of females was but five thousand two hundred and 
forty-five ! It is probable that this disparity has become 
somewhat less within the last year, and that the population 
has increased, at least six thousand ; but the number of 
families is yet comparatively very small, and many years 
will pass away before the population will attain the natural 
proportion between the sexes. 

Jewelry. The plain traveller from the east will notice 
the profusion of rich jewelry worn here by every class, and 



INDIVIDUAL OBSCUKITY. IGo 

by both sexes. To appear without jewelry might even 
excite remark. Much of this jewelry is sui generis, — 
specimen rings, pins, chains, and buttons. These articles are 
manufactured from the metal in its native state, by solder- 
ing into one mass many small nuggets, without the polish or 
embellishments of art. They are made strong and mass- 
ive ; and are sold at " San Franciscan prices." Fancy 
has indulged her highest and perhaps her wildest flight of 
inventive skill, in the construction of watch-chains and 
seals. They are made in the image of every variety of 
animal, whether man, beast, bird, fish, or reptile. Chains 
are displayed, the links of which are representations of 
dogs, deer, or birds, in full pursuit of each other; or of 
serpents coiled and hissing. Pins are manufactured, the 
heads of which are lumps of gold retaining their natural 
figure, and mixed with the quartz — rose, blue, gray or 
white — of the mine from which they were taken. These 
ornaments are pure, and many of them are in good taste, 
though nature has been permitted to be her own refiner and 
finisher. 

Individual Obscurity. The stranger will soon learn 
the somewhat singular fact, that very few citizens are ex- 
tensively known in the city. There are, of course, promi- 
nent individuals in public and in private life ; but the mass- 
es, even the larger portion of persons in active business, 
are not generally known to each other. Very many tra- 
ders have no signs to designate their places of business : 
many often change their places, and others have no locations. 
A reliable directory, therefore, cannot be made. The popu- 
lation, too, is constantly changing ; and on inquiry after a 
person, the far more frequent than convenient or agreeable 



164 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

reply is : ''I don't know him/' or, "I know him, but 
don't know where he stops now." 

Hotels. The city is deficient in good hotels. The 
stranger may get a room to himself at the Oriental, the 
Crescent City, the Niantic, or at Wilson's Exchange ; but 
the more probable result of an application to either will 
be a lodging with five or six others. This is alike disagree- 
able to all parties. These hotels, except the latter, are 
constructed of wood, and, if they take fire, the lodger is 
fortunate who shall escape from the burning pile with the 
loss of all valuables but life. During the past season 
Wilson's Exchange has been thoroughly repaired, and ex- 
tensively enlarged ; and, being built of brick, should the 
table and rooms correspond with the exterior, it may be said 
with truth that San Francisco contains one safe and com- 
fortable hotel. 

Hours of Retirement. The prevailing late hours of 
retirement at night will probably be an annoyance 'to old- 
fiishioned people, until they become accustomed to the popu- 
lar habit. 

The streets on which dwellings are principally situated 
are narrow, and many houses are separated merely by a 
lane ; so that the confused intermingling of voices is heard, 
and lights and movements must be seen from house to house, 
through the long, open, swinging windows, during all the 
hours which ought to be devoted to rest. In this particu- 
lar, visitors often wish the city had more of the American 
and less of the foreign cast. The piano, the violin, and 
the guitar, are the continual tormentors of those who desire 
to rest after the good old Yankee fashion, in this dancing 
sporting city. The hours of the day are seriously shortened 
by this custom. 



HOURS FOR MEALS. — USE OF WINE. 1G5 

Hours for Meals. The time to breakfast at the 
restaurants is generally nine o'clock, though many persons 
do not appear there until ten. The fashionable dining 
hour is six o'clock, p. M. ; but eight and nine o'clock find 
many of the devotees of this custom lounging at the dinner- 
table. The charming evenings are a strong temptation to 
late hours ; but still, 

•' Night is the time for rest." 

Use of Wine. The very general use of wine "at 
table " will astound the advocates of total abstinence. In 
all the restaurants, that beverage is furnished at the morn- 
ing and evening repast ; and in many of them it is provided 
without request, included in the charges, and the customer 
must pay for it whether pledge or principle does or does 
not forbid its use. 

This custom is one of the most serious evils prevalent in 
the city ; for its influence is the most permanent, and its 
consequences are by no means confined to the tempted, but 
are spread through all the circles of society. It may be 
called the parent of every other evil. A particular local 
consideration also renders this a doubly alarming custom. 
The opinion prevails that persons may here indulge in the 
use of ardent spirits, to almost any extent, without becoming 
intoxicated ; and observation induces this belief. More 
drunkenness may be witnessed in many country villages, in 
the eastern states, than is ever seen in San Francisco ; and 
why the usual consequences of excessive indulgence do not 
here follow, is a question which must be submitted to the 
decision of the learned on such subjects. It is asserted that 
the influence of the climate is an antidote to the poison, 
and neutralizes its intoxicating properties. But whether or 



166 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

not the principal proposition be the truth, or the solution 
correct, the prevalence of the opinion here undoubtedly 
acts as a powerful inducement to many persons to indulge 
freely, who otherwise would seldom, or perhaps never, taste 
of wines or other intoxicating drinks. 

Habits are thus formed and confirmed, which sooner or 
later are carried away by temporary sojourners to deso- 
late once peaceful and joyous homes. 

Duelling. The "code of honor" is popular in this 
country — no less than three duels having occurred in the 
state since the 21st day of May, 1853, now about ten 
months. These arose from trivial causes, and certainly in- 
dicate any other qualities in the combatants than solid sense 
and true courage. The public law declares duelling to be a 
crime, but imposes no penalty except disqualification for 
office and the denial of the right of suffrage. The disrespect 
entertained for that law is illustrated in the fiict that office- 
holders here fight nearly all the duels, and its violators are 
the most popular candidates with the people. This expres- 
sion is predicated on the fact that office-holders are the duel- 
lists and yet retain their positions, and duellists are nomi- 
nated and are elected ! What other inference from such 
premises would be legitimate ? 

Education. San Francisco has. as yet, done little for 
the cause of education. Wealth is the great object with the 
masses. No colleges nor academies exist in the city, nor is 
public attention particularly occupied with the subject. A 
system of public instruction, adopted by the corporation, is 
in partial operation. About 1000 children, out of 4000 
•which the city contains, have, at different times, been taught 
in these schools ; but no fund is provided for their support, 
and they do not prosper. The state has adopted a common 



YERBA BUENA CEMETERY. 167 

Bchool system, and provided for the future accumulation of 
a literature fund ; but the latter is yet unproductive. Sev- 
eral institutions for the younger class of girls are also 
opened by individuals ; but parents here, generally, send 
their daughters to be educated at the "Academy of the Sis- 
ters of Notre Dame," in the city of San Jose. 

Cemetery — "■ Yerba Buena." About two miles south 
from the city, in the vicinity of the old Catholic mission, is 
a tract of rolling land, containing, perhaps, thirty acreSj 
which is sparsely covered with dwarf oaks — the beautiful 
evergreen which has been described on another page. Ex- 
cepting these, and a few patches of peppermint, the whole 
surface is as destitute of spontaneous vegetation as if the 
ground had been thoroughly weeded. It is the southern 
border of the sandy beach and hills on which the city 
stands ; but the prospect south and west is relieved by the 
cultivation and improvement which the mission lands have 
so long received. This " green spot" is the cemetery, and 
is named "Yerba Buena" — pleasant plant. It is truly 
a lovely place — a grateful resort for the denizens of a city 
built " where no verdure is." Walks are opened in many 
directions over the grounds ; and every facility is given to 
friends who visit there to place a flower or drop a tear on 
the graves of their " loved and lost." The selection of this 
spot for a cemetery is strikingly appropriate. Here, in a 
single view, is presented this bleak and barren world, in 
impressive yet consoling contrast with the freshness, fra- 
grance and beauty of the " better land." A quiet grove of 
deep, dark foliage that never fades, continually fanned by 
the cool ocean breeze, and bathed in the perfume of the 
" pleasant plant," is set down by the kind hand of Provi- 
dence in this dry, barren, cheerless waste ! Not a wild 



168 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

flower in all the ground lifts its head, except the tiny blos- 
som of the peppermint — just to verify the sweet sentiment 
of the poet, 

*' There 's not a heath, however rude, 
But has some little flower, 
To brighten up its solitude. 
And scent the evening hour." 

This cemetery is now enclosed ; but individuals protect 
and adorn their lots according to their taste. These im- 
provements are attended with much expense in this locality : 
consequently but few lots are yet ornamented. Several, 
however, are surrounded by neat iron fences, and contain 
costly monuments, choice shrubbery, and bright flowers. 
The lots must be prepared for the support of this vegetable 
life, by excavating the loose sand to the depth of one or two 
feet, and substituting nutritious earth, which is obtained 
from the mission. Daily irrigation, also, is indispensable 
during the dry season. 

On the south-western side of this cemetery is the " field 
to bury strangers in ; " and here, among the long rows of 
nameless graves, attention will be attracted to a high, broad 
mound, covered with dry underbrush. Beneath this hillock 
are the bodies that were buried on " North Beach" before 
the cemetery was provided. Their number is more than 
eight hundred, and the larger portion were the victims of 
cholera, which made fearful havoc among the early adven- 
turers to the land of gold. This grave of a great multitude 
is situated in a low, secluded valley, and surrounded densely 
with evergreen oaks. It is a spot around which will long 
cluster the affections of many hearts ; fathers and mothers, 
sisters and brothers, in almost every clime, have here some 
" faded hope," some cherished treasure. 



YERBA BUENA CEMETERY. 169 

I remember one, — Champion Spalding, an enterprising 
and vigorous youth, — whose golden dreams lured him 
at an early day to this distant shore, and who died in 
a few months after his arrival at San Francisco. He was 
buried on " North Beach," but now reposes among the 
undistinguished company of that crowded receptacle, as 
quietly sleeping as if his bed had been selected by the parti- 
ality of a friend, and been sanctified by the tears of affection. 

Another, who had died there, I knew ; and I inquired of 
my attendant, if he could conduct me to the grave of Ster- 
ling Mills, a young man who came to San Francisco, from 
Utica, N. Y., in the spring of 1852. After an inspection 
of his record of burials, he kindly accompanied me to the 
spot. The grave is numbered " 2307," and the date of the 
burial is " Nov. 27th, 1852." He is laid on a steep hill- 
side, in very close proximity to other bodies ; but the loose 
sand that covers him is well shielded from the burning sun 
by several oaks, which stretch their evergreen branches 
gracefully over his resting-place. A low tablet stands at 
the head of the grave, bearing the simple inscription which 
has been here repeated. No other memorial appears. 

Although these youthful adventurers were not my 
kindred, yet, in the places of their former abode, they 
had sustained social relations to me which imparted 
to their memory in that distant land a sweet and 
grateful fragrance. The latter had been a frequent guest 
in my family ; and both were mates of a beloved son, 
who, in the freshness of early manhood, had also passed 
away. 

" ! -what a shadow o'er the heart is flung, 
When peals the requiem of the loved aud young." 

15 



170 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Yes, sadly sweet were my memories there, and I love 
them still ! Precious memories of other years ! Cherished 
recollections of sunnier hours ! Peace to those youthful 
sleepers by the ocean's shore ! In the memory of loving 
hearts they are living still. The evergreen shall keep its 
ceaseless vigils where they rest, that no heedless foot 
tread rudely on their dust ; but who that loved them here 

" Can mourn their exit from a world like this ? " 

It is interesting to examine the inscriptions in this ceme- 
tery. Among the dead are the natives of every clime ; but 
China and South America are the most numerously repre- 
sented. The graves of the Chinese are distinguished by 
neat white fences, and generally by a single letter or char- 
acter of their alphabet — which, probably, tells a long story 
of the deceased. The fences around a few of these graves are 
ornamented with red or blue curtains, hung in festoons and 
reaching to the ground. The cross is visible in every direc- 
tion above the green foliage, but the various devices 
inscribed, indicate nationality as well as faith. How potent 
is the attraction of gold ! How limitless the dominion of 
Mammon ! Truly his votaries, his subjects, are all man- 
kind ! But three years have passed since this ground was 
consecrated, yet hundreds, whose ashes now moulder here, 
came from remote regions, and never, perhaps, heard of 
California until the golden trumpet sounded through the 
w^orld. When or where did ever legitimate commerce, or 
religious faith, or the principles of universal freedom, con- 
gregate so many natives of every nation on a barren shore, 
and rear so large a city in so short a time ? Human his- 
tory has no parallel in its annals. 

In the cemetery of a populous town the stranger expects 



FOREIGN POPULATION. 171 

to see the shadows of olden time — moss-grown head-stones, 
crumbling tombs, and sunken graves. With a city, the 
mind easily associates antiquity, — a period far back in the 
ages, when the first rough tenements were reared where it 
stands; and, in the repository of its dead, very naturally 
inquires for the places where, 

" Each in his narrow cell forever laid, 
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." 

But here no such anticipations are realized. Every death 
is recent, every grave is fresh. No memorial appears of 
older date than the year 1849. The visitor casts his eye over 
the almost vacant cemetery, and the broadly expanded, 
crowded city, and asks, involuntarily, " Are these all the 
dead of this great city ? " 

The Foreign Population. The question is often asked, 
whether the Chinese, South and Central American, and 
Mexican population of California, will ever become reliable 
citizens ; whether any portion of the adults, among those who 
are now in the country, or who may hereafter arrive, can be 
safely invested with the rights of citizenship 7 All classes 
of Europeans are superior to them in those qualities which 
are essential to the security of a republican form of govern- 
ment. 

The Chinese are much the less objectionable, though 
American prejudice is stronger against them. But that 
prejudice arises from the very causes which constitute their 
superiority. The Chinese are industrious, intellectual, 
shrewd, and energetic. They engage extensively in honor- 
able commerce, acquire wealth, and husband their gains 
with commendable judgment. They exhibit a spirit of 
subordination to the law, are tenacious of right, and will 



172 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

hazard fortune, and even life, in the resistance of wrong. 
They have their national peculiarities — the ideas of govern- 
ment, religion, and morals, in which they were educated ; 
but the fact that they are educated, and have acquired ideas 
on those subjects, is evidence that they possess the elements 
of improvement and reformation. 

Now, look at the other portion of this foreign material. 
In what do they engage ? Male and female, where are they 
found? With few exceptions, the dram-shops, gambling 
saloons, and brothels, fill their ambition, and are their chosen 
home. As a general characteristic, they are faithless. Re- 
sistance is an element of their nature, and it is almost a 
hopeless task to inspire them with an appreciation of the 
principle of submission to the majority. On the contrary, 
many of the Chinese already comprehend that idea, and the 
state made a great mistake when it excluded them from the 
right of sujQfrage, but left the much more dangerous portion 
admissible to the exercise of that responsible franchise. 

Suburban Localities. There are few interesting 
localities near San Francisco. The " bright little isle " of 
Yerba Buena that lies before the city, in the bay, has 
already been mentioned, and also Angel Isle, at the east- 
ward of the Golden Gate. At the north of the city, and 
just beyond its present limit, is 

Telegraph Hill. This is the highest point of land on 
the promontory, — forming, in fact, a portion of its northern 
termination. It is very broad at its base, circular, and runs 
with a smooth, regular surface to a small point, at the height 
of about one thousand feet above the water. Its apex is 
crowned with a marine telegraph, which, with the " Outer 
Telegraph," standing on another elevation near the shore 
of the ocean about six miles to the west, gives warning of 



ROADS TO THE PRESIDIO AND FORT. ITS 

the approach of shipping many hours before the canvas is 
furled, or the wheels are still at the wharves in the bay. 

Dolores. A broad and substantial plank-road leads 
out of the city, to the south, about four miles to the old 
mission of San Francisco, — sometimes erroneously called, 
" Dolores." On another page has been particularly de- 
scribed this ancient relic of ecclesiastical rule, and the 
neighboring presidio and fort. All these objects are inter- 
esting to the mind that delights to turn back the worn leaves 
of the old volume of Time, and to spell out on its pages the 
little that remains of their history, in the long story of the 
past. 

The Roads to the Presidio and Fort, are through 
a country singular in all its features to the visitor from the 
east. It is a vast unenclosed domain, an irregular succes- 
sion of green hills and lovely valleys. Here and there a 
quiet hamlet is seen, embosomed in the evergreen oaks ; and 
on either hand beautiful gardens appear in every stage of 
vegetation — from the sprouting seed to the matured crop. 
On the right hand are the waters of the Golden Gate, bright 
and sparkling in the summer sun, or lowering and dark 
under the shadows of the winter clouds. On the left hand, 
in the distance, are the high lands which skirt the plain. 
These are fresh and fragrant with waving oats and grass, or 
dingy and dry in the faded remains of their earlier glories. 
Flocks of domesticated goats are quietly cropping the hill- 
sides, and the low lands are dotted with numerous kine. 
The latter are not natives of the country but were driven 
across the plains from the east ; and the city depends on 
them for its partial supply of milk. They range here over 
unmeasured space — each owner having a recorded mark 
and a herdsman. 

15* 



174 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

Circuit of the Bay. If the citizen desires to leave, 
for a season, the dust and din of the town, it is a charming 
tour of about one hundred miles to make the circuit of the 
bay, — going down on the eastern shore and returning on the 
western. The ride will occupy about two or three days ; 
but the beauty and novelty of the view will amply compen- 
sate for the time and outlay. 

The water has lost the deep blue of the ocean, and the 
dark green of the soundings, and appears like that of the 
rivers which conduct into the bay the tribute of the snow- 
crowned Nevadas. As the steamer recedes from the city 
the expanse of water grows broader, and the swells roll with 
considerable violence, — the breeze always blowing fresh. 

Oakland and Alameda. Nearly opposite the city, on 
the eastern shore, lies the little village of Oakland, and its 
scattered white cottages can be distinctly seen as they stand 
on the sandy beach, without a tree or flower to relieve the 
view. And twelve miles below, is Alameda, surrounded by 
cultivated fields and lovely foliage. 

Valley of San Jose. From this point the mountains 
begin to recede from the bay, leaving a level country inter- 
vening, which continues to increase in extent until it becomes 
a broad valley — extending far below, and embracing the 
whole southern shore. This is the justly celebrated valley 
of San Jose. It lies west of the Coast Range, between it 
and a spur of those mountains that makes out to the ocean, 
and terminates in the promontory forming the bay. 

Valley of Alameda. Twenty-five miles below the 
city the steamer enters the Alameda creek, and proceeds 
south-easterly up its serpentine channel twelve miles into 
the valley, to the embarcadaro, or landing-place, at Union 
city. Steamers and sail-vessels are constantly plying on 



MISSION OF SAN JOSE. 175 

this little stream ; and, as it is very narrow, and hidden by 
the long grass, and its course is very crooked, they appear 
to be moving like the figures of a diorama, mysteriously, yet 
gracefully, on a vast green meadow. 

The hills and mountains along the bay are, at this time 
(August), covered with the ripened crop of wild oats, and 
as the beams of light reflect from one yellow peak to another, 
they appear to be robed in a mantle of gold. Three months 
hence, this covering will be changed to the freshness and 
verdure of spring, or, as the season is known here, of winter. 
As the voyager penetrates the valley, ascending the little 
Alameda, the whole perspective is in the highest sense beau- 
tiful. A broad, level carpet, of bright green, is fringed in 
the misty distance with a high-raised bordering of shining 
yellow. The vessels on the winding stream, and the few 
small trees that wave on its shores, resemble embossed figures 
on a magnificent ground- work ; and the growing crops that 
are scattered over the whole, in various colors and stages of 
vegetation, give to the picture the charm of almost endless 
variety. It seems impossible that even nature, with all her 
skill, could have painted a more delightful or instructive 
scene. 

Mission or San Jose. From Union city the ride is 
nine miles, over a smooth, level road, in excellent stage- 
coach conveyance to the mission of San Jose (St. John). 
But few dwellings arc seen on the way, and those are gen- 
erally constructed of cloth. The little fencing necessary at 
present is composed either wholly of iron or of red-wood 
posts with iron wire. In this valley the husbandman has 
no labor to perform preparatory to fitting the land and 
putting in the seed. No dense forests of heavy timber are 



17G DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. * 

to be felled, — nature having cleared tlie soil, and enriclied it 
ready for immediate occupancy. 

The records of this mission show that it was founded in 
the year 1797 ; but the grounds have been long neglected, 
and many of the buildings have crumbled into ruins. In 
the palmy days of ecclesiastical authority the walls enclosed 
about twenty acres, embracing the church, dwellings, out- 
houses, gardens, orchards, and vineyards. The domain was 
originally a tract of land containing about fifteen thousand 
acres, lying contiguous to the church. No benevolent mind 
can survey these dilapidated missions without experiencing 
a feeling of sadness ; not because their glory has departed, 
but that the simple children of nature, whose enlightenment 
and w^elfare was the profession of the priests, were not 
brought under a purer and more elevating influence. 

Visit to the Padre. These mission estates have been 
described in another chapter, and only a few lines will be 
here added, descriptive of a call upon the Padre of San Jose. 
He was found seated in a large, dark, floorless room, which 
had no finish or embellishment on its dingy, adobe parti- 
tions. In one corner was a cot, on which lay a mattress, 
one pillow, and a blanket. An ancient bench stood against 
the wall. In another corner were two barrels containing 
musty papers, and in the centre was an old-fashioned cross- 
legged table bearing a lamp, a few worn volumes of ancient 
Latin authors, and a pitcher. These constituted the " tout 
ensemble " of the padre's study. He rose when we entered, 
gave us his hand, and, through an interpreter, requested us 
to be seated. He is an aged Dane, and was very communi- 
cative on all questions respecting his church and vocation. 
He remarked, during the interview, that our countrymen 
are an uneasy people ; and he attributed to them the troubles 



THE CACTUS. — PUEBLA OF SAN JOSE. 177 

of Mexico, and the decline of his church. It was replied, 
"that our system is to keep the church disconnected from 
the state;" to which he hurriedly remarked, " Ah! I mean 
indirectly, indirectly ;" by which, it is presumed, he in- 
tended that the moral influence of the United States on 
Mexico had led to the secularization, by the latter, of the 
church estates. 

The Cactus. The visitor to this mission will see the 
cactus in all its glory. The walls are literally, in many 
places, buried under this plant. The thick, clumsy leaves, 
or shoots, are from two to three feet in length, and put out 
from each other to the distance of sixty feet.' There are 
several species, one of which bears a fruit called the prickly 
pear. This fruit grows on the edges of the thick leaves, or 
shoots, to about the size of a hen's egg, and is sickish to the 
taste ; some persons, however, eat of it, and it is seen on the 
fruit-stands in San Francisco. The body of this mammoth 
vegetable is sometimes a foot in diameter, and as firm as 
that of the cedar or pine. In several places great labor 
with an axe would be required to get at the garden walls 
which were buried under it to the depth of ten feet. The 
plant grows along the ground and shoots off in all directions. 
One such specimen, in a northern lady's plant jar, would be 
really a great affair ! 

Pueblo of San Jose. Pursuing the excursion, the 
visitor proceeds to the pueblo, distant fifteen miles south 
from the mission. The country lying between the mis- 
sion and Pueblo of San Jose is uneven, and less improved 
than that just seen. Not more than one or two farms are 
under cultivation between those places ; and scarcely a tene- 
ment, excepting a few constructed of cloth, has been reared. 
The soil is a deep blue loam, rich and strong; but the 



178 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

absence of springs and streams, with the long dry seasons, 
must ahvays abridge its productiveness. For the first eight 
miles not a tree, and scarcely a bush, rises to cast a shadow 
on the parched surface ; but, thence onward, a few majestic 
California oaks are standing in scattered groups, and impart 
freshness and variety to the prospect. 

The town of San Jose is remarkable for having aspired to 
be the capital of the state. It secured the prize, and 
actually retained it nearly two years ! 

It contains about four thousand inhabitants, principally 
Spanish, Mexicans, and Germans. San Jose is an old Span- 
ish town, but has grown to its present size since the dis- 
covery of gold in the country. Before that period, its pop- 
ulation was about eight hundred — Mexicans and Indians. 
The commerce was inconsiderable, being chiefly in grain and 
cattle. The houses and other buildings were small, and 
cheaply constructed ; the best being a few old adobe resi- 
dences. This city is situated about fifty miles from San 
Francisco by water, and sixty by land. It is about seven 
miles from the bay. The " CoUegio de Niiias,^^ or Cath- 
olic academy for young ladies, is located at this place, and is 
the only flourishing female seminary in the state. 

Village of Alveso. Seven miles north-west from the 
pueblo, on the shore of what may be termed a slough, com- 
municating with the southern extremity of the bay, is the 
eniharcadaro^ or village of Alveso. This little hamlet bears 
the name of a wealthy Californian, and was, at one period, 
regarded with favor as the future capital of the golden state. 
But the embarcadaro, like the pueblo, was abandoned for 
Benicia — the latter being the name of the lady of a Mexi- 
can general, who gallantly demanded the awarded prefer- 
ence. 



MISSION OF SANTA CLARA. 179 

Mission of Santa Clara. From Alveso, tlie next 
object worthy of a visit is the mission of Santa Clara, situ- 
ated about three miles to the westward of the pueblo. In 
its general features it resembles the other missions, but the 
buildings are in a much better condition. Being the popu- 
lar church, and contiguous to the town, the grounds and 
structures have been kept in very good repair. A modest 
steeple is added to one of its front corners, and its exterior 
walls have been plastered and painted. 

The road-way from the pueblo to Santa Clara is shaded, 
on both sides, with ancient overhanging willows ; and a 
crystal brook, flowing along in its pebbly bed, adds cheerful 
music to the summer gales that rustle among the inter- 
mingling branches. It is a charming grove, and the tired 
admirer feels inclined to linger for an hour and cool his 
fevered brow beneath the consecrated shade. 

Quicksilver Mine. From Santa Clara, the distance 
is ten miles, in a south-easterly direction, to the mine of 
quicksilver at New Almaden [a mine]. This is the most 
extensive and the richest mine of quicksilver ever discov- 
ered. The locality has been known to the Indians more 
than twenty years, and they have been accustomed to use 
the ore to redden their faces, and their various implements. 
In the year 1845, a quantity which had been procured, at 
the solicitation of the padre of Santa Clara to adorn the 
church, was seen by a scientific Mexican, who forwarded a 
specimen to the city of Mexico for examination, and its 
character was then discovered. A company was soon after 
formed by several English and American gentlemen, who 
obtained a grant from the government to open and work 
the mine. Since that time a large amount of capital has 
been invested in the business, and about a hundred work- 



180 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

men are now employed in raising and smelting the ore. It 
is believed that this mine will yield a quantity of quicksil- 
ver sufficient to supply the markets of the world for many 
years. The general process of smelting is to confine the 
ore in a close furnace or oven, and, by the application of 
heat, to rarefy the metal, which is conducted off through a 
condenser and caught in iron jars or pans. 

This mine is located on the eastern side of a spur of the 
coast range, in the county of Santa Clara, and about sixty 
miles south-east from San Francisco. The entrance is by 
a circuitous path, about a mile into the mountains, and the 
ascent is difficult ; but, having been accomplished, the visitor 
is amply rewarded for the toil. The mountain is penetrated 
horizontally, about nine hundred feet ; and the drift, or 
lead, is opened sufficiently to admit the -working of a small 
rail-way. From that point, the descent, relieved by occa- 
sional rests, is gradual for a long distance, and to a great 
depth, in several ramifications. 

The discovery of this mine was an opportune event for 
the mining interest of California. Quicksilver is almost 
an indispensable article in gold mining; and here is an 
inexhaustible supply where the demand is greatest. 

San Mateo. Returning to the pueblo, the visitor pro- 
ceeds along the southern shore of the bay fifteen or twenty 
miles, to San Mateo, the western extremity of the country 
generally known as the San Jose valley ; and this region 
may be called its garden and its crown. Venerable oaks 
with mighty arms, supporting a profusion of deep green 
foliage, are scattered widely over the vast level fields ; neat 
cottages, surrounded by commodious out-houses, are rising 
on either hand among the trees ; thousands of cattle, horses, 
mules, and sheep, are reposing in the shade, or feeding 



SAN MATEO. 181 

quietly over the broad, luxuriant pastures ; and the Amer- 
ican farmer is opening sluices, placing wire or hide-rope 
fences, and providing facilities for irrigation in all directions. 
Seldom does nature make a grander display of her rural 
charms, or furnish a richer soil in a more congenial climate. 

On the bay between San Jose and San Mateo is the 
red-wood Embarcadaro. The lumber obtained from the 
forests known as '" the red- woods," and which are situated 
at the south and south-east from this point, is brought here 
for transportation to San Francisco and other markets. 

A short distance beyond San Mateo is a dilapidated out- 
post of the mission of San Francisco. It was built there as 
a protection against the incursions of unfriendly Indians. 

From this point, the face of the country changes rapidly, 
becoming more and more uneven, until the lately broad and 
smooth surface terminates in a narrow valley between two 
spurs of the mountains. This valley is uneven, rocky in 
some places, and continually rising and narrowing, until it 
terminates in the hills which surround the city of San 
Francisco. 

The ride from San Mateo along the valley on the promon- 
tory, is not, however, devoid of objects of interest to stran- 
gers. Large droves of Mexican wild cattle, horses, sheep, 
and hogs, will be seen wending their way to the city. These 
droves often move forward at the top of their speed, pursued 
by the mounted Californians on a gallop, and leave behind 
thick clouds of dust, which, reflecting the rays of the sun, 
appear, at times, like volumes of flame. Occasionally a 
corral or yard of some old Mexican rancho will be passed, 
where the cattle belonging to the estate are rodeoed. 

The country lying between San Mateo and San Francisco 
retains, in a great degree, its appearance under the Mexi- 
16 



182 DESCRIPTION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

can regime. But few Americans have yet settled upon it, 
and for the reason that it is less inviting than other sec- 
tions ; yet parts of it are rich, strong lands, and may be 
made as productive as any other in the state. 

"The sight-seeing" in the ride around the bay, return- 
ing by land on the western side, closes with the San Fran- 
cisco mission, already described. The buildings ai'e sinking 
into decay, and doubtless they will soon be known only 
amonor '' the thin<:;s that were.'' But the hand of American 
enterprise, guided by American taste and skill, is at work 
in those lovely grounds. Neat cottages are rapidly multi- 
plying, among the green oaks, in every variety of style and 
finish. The long-neglected valley is assuming the dress, 
not only of thrift, but of elegance and refinement. The 
trees are trimmed, the gardens are renovated and arranged 
with regularity and taste, new streets are opened, ditches 
for drainage are sunk, and substantial bridges are substi- 
tuted for the rickety log- ways of the padres and their Indian 
husbandmen. One dwelling is worthy of special notice: 

The Cottage of Capt. Denison stands in a cluster of 
willows, and their arcliing branches, fringed with drooping 
moss, fill gracefully around it on every side. One of the 
trees passes through the floor and roof of the verandah, and 
the trunk of another is allowed to wind through the dining- 
room. Nothing could be in better taste, for the willow is 
ever associated, in the susceptible mind, with cooling breezes 
and babbling streams. No impression produced by external 
objects can be more happy. May the man who originated 
this novelty live long to bless others with the suggestions 
of his excellent taste ! 

Leaving the mission, nothing worthy of note remains to 
be seen but the view from the barren heights which overlook 



SAN MATEO. 183 

the city. The sun is just sinking behind the western moun- 
tains, but the house-tops are glistening mirrors under his 
fiiding rays ; a dense mantle of dust and smoke hangs heav- 
ily over the scene, and is moving slowly away to the south- 
east on the evening breeze ; the hum of bustling thousands, 
mingled with the clatter of drays, the roll of carriages, the 
quick tramp of hurried horses over pavements and plank, 
the peal of bells, and all the complicated din of busy arti- 
sans, Ml suddenly on the ear ; beautiful islands are seen 
in the bay, rising gracefully on the bosom of the restless 
waters ; ocean steamers of the first class are lying at their 
stations, ready to depart at the appointed time ; six river 
steamers are about leaving their wharves for various places on 
the coast and neighboring rivers ; vessels from every clime, 
and of every size, form, and description, are swinging at 
their anchors, or gliding through the spacious harbor ; and 
the merchandise of every nation, the richest, and the rarest, 
constantly discharged at the wharves, is finding a ready 
market. Such is the scene presented at sun-set, from these 
heights, on a sandy beach at their base, where only five 
years ago a mere hamlet stood — an undistinguishablc point 
on the map of North America. 



PART THIRD. 

GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS, 



CHAPTER I. 

A Description of the several kinds of Placers and "Diggings ;" Prospecting 
for " Mining Claims ; " Dififerent Methods of " washing the dirt " and 
collecting the Gold ; Names, Construction and Operation of the Machines; 
Quartz Mills, Sluices, Flumes and other Fixtures ; Canals, Aqueducts, 
Appearance of the Mining Region, &o. 

Discovery of the Gold. In May, A. D. 1848, public 
attention ^yas first especially directed to Upper California 
as the depository of large quantities of native gold. The 
discovery was made on the south fork of the American 
river, at a point where Captain John A. Sutter was con- 
structing a. saw-mill. That locality is a few miles west of 
the present village of Culloma, in the county of El Dorado, 
and about one hundred and seventy miles easterly from the 
city of San Francisco. 

In that month, two men (Marshall and Weaver) were 
employed at this mill : and one version of the particulars of 
the discovery is, that to promote expedition in their work of 
digging the discharging race, they turned a powerful volume 
of water into a small sluice-way opened for that purpose, and 
thus, in a sliort time, washed away a large quantity of earth, 
leaving a broad and deep channel ; that, soon after this ex- 



GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER. 185 

ploit, several children, members of Mormon families residing 
near, while sporting in the channel, and throwing the sand 
and gravel of the bottom into the air, discovered many shining 
particles, and called the attention of those laborers to the 
circumstance. Another version of the storj is, that these 
men were engaged at the time in the enlargement of the 
discharging race of the mill, and, to promote the speedy 
execution of their work, they forced a powerful current of 
w^ater through the flume, by which a gravel bar was formed 
at the foot of the race ; that, several days subsequently, Mr. 
Marshall discovered on that bar many shining particles, 
and, believing them to be gold, collected a quantity, and 
communicated the intelligence to Captain Sutter ; that they 
together made a further examination, and soon ascertained 
that the shores and the bed of the south fork of that river 
were rich in deposits of gold ; and that other persons, who 
had watched the movements of these gentlemen, also made 
search with equal success, and thus the great discovery 
became generally known. 

Of Gen. John A. Sutter, so closely associated with 
this great event, being an early and prominent settler in 
California, a brief notice may not be deemed improper 
in this connection. He is a native of Switzerland, and was 
once a Captain in the Swiss Guards of Charles X., king of 
France. In the year 1833, he emigrated to Missouri, and 
in the year 1839 went to Oregon, across the plains. In 
the latter year he visited the 'Sandwich Islands, and came 
thence to Upper California. In that or the following year 
he obtained a grant of forty square miles of land in that 
territory, and located it in the great valley which is watered 
by the Sacramento and American rivers. Subsequently he 
16* 



18G GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

built upon liis Hacienda the walled mansion which has been 
described in another chapter. 

The laborers employed in that really extensive work were 
chiefly Indians, whom he conciliated and trained to some 
knowledge and skill in various branches of labor. Here he 
resided for many years, enjoying little home intercourse, 
except with those natives. They were encamped around 
his walls in burrows, formed by covering deep pits with a 
spherical roof of earth, and were his laborers, soldiers and 
companions. He left his family in Europe when he emi- 
grated to America, but they joined him in California a few 
years ago. At one period, he was supposed to be very 
wealthy, but subsequent difficulties respecting the practical 
extent of his grant, and other causes, have somewhat 
impaired his fortune. He has removed from his old Ilaoi- 
enda (New Helvetia), associated as it must be with many 
interesting recollections of the past, and now resides in a 
modest dwelling on the west bank of the Feather river, 
about seven miles below Marysville. His new habitation is 
surrounded by well-cultivated grounds, and at a short dis- 
tance from it are the burrows of the few faithful Indians 
who have followed the fortunes of their former master and 
protector. This estate is called ''The Hock Farm," from 
the circumstance that the proprietor is rearing upon it a 
large and flourishing vineyard. General Sutter is now past 
sixty years of age, but is yet hale and stalwart, and he holds 
the commission of Major General in the militia of the state. 

Previous Opinions. Long prior to the year 1848, the 
opinion was expressed, by persons who had traversed portions 
of the territory, that its mountains and " canons " * (gorges) 

* From Carlo, a subterraneous passage^ a mine. The word is in general use 
now to signify a ravine or gorge, and is often spelled canyon. 



NATURAL INDICATIONS OF GOLD. 187 

contained deposits of tlie precious metals ; and the story is 
current in California, that a gold ''placer"^ was found 
many years before, near the mission of San Fernando, in 
the present county of Los Angeles, and that a quantity of 
gold was collected from it, but that the scarcity of water 
prevented its being profitably worked, so that it was aban- 
doned. It is also reported, that a '-nugget"! ^^^ g^-*^'^j 
weighing one or two ounces, was obtained fifteen years ago 
from the crevice of a surface rock, near the site of General 
Sutter's celebrated saw mill. 

Whether or not these stories are true, the opinion was cer- 
tainly very natural : — one, indeed, which would be necessa- 
rily formed by any explorer, familiar with districts in other 
countries, where gold and silver have been found. 

Natural Indications of Gold. The prevailing color 
of the soil, a reddish brown, and its dry and barren appear- 
ance ; the broken and apparently crowded position of the 
mountains, bearing testimony to the conclusion that they 
are ^'up-heaves^^ of some volcanic action; the smooth and 
worn appearance of the rocks, both above and below the 
sur^e, showing that they have been, at some remote period, 
long subjected to the action of water : the character of the 
deposit, which lies immediately on the '"bedrock," and is 
often exposed at the surface, having the color and consis- 
tence, in some instances, of pulverized bricks, and in others 
of leached ashes, both of which must have been moistened, 
powerfully compressed, and then hardened by heat; the 

*A plat of ground bordering on a p.treain, and which contains dcponits of 
gold. 

fUaed on the mining grounds to signify a lump of gold of conaidcrablo 
size ; larger than a walnut. The finest glofjule grains are called gold dust ; 
if the grains are flattened, they are called Hcah gold ; if the grains are 
larger than a pea, they are known commonly a? lump gold. 



188 GOLD MINES, MIXING AND MINERS. 

presence of fragments of quartz and of decomposing lava, 
jutting up to view, but partially imbedded in the soil, 
affording evidence that internal fires have warred with other 
elements in that locality, are, it is asserted by miners who 
have had long experience in Mexico and Peru, signs of the 
presence of gold which seldom deceive. 

Traditionary Testimony. It is also said that, at a 
very early period, after the organization of the missions in 
Lower California, the Indians, who were sent into the ' ' upper 
country " to persuade the natives to submit to the guardian- 
ship and tutelage of the Catholic fathers, spoke, on their 
return, of the "shining sand " in the streams and gorges 
which they crossed in their journey. But those worthies 
were so deeply devoted to the spiritual conquests of the 
church, that they heeded not the story of "the shining 
sand ; " and the crown of Spain was then so rich in the 
treasures of her own mountains, and in those of Mexico nearer 
home, that the simple narrations of the poor Indians respect- 
ing a far-off and wholly unexplored region, were disregarded 
and forgotten. Hence, nearly a century passed before suflB- 
cient light was cast upon this subject to attract the attention 
of a people more energetic and enterprising than the Span- 
iards and Mexicans, though none could be more avaricious 
than they. It has been reserved, like almost all modern 
discoveries and schemes of human progression on the west- 
ern continent, for the restless Anglo-Saxons to penetrate 
the mountains of California, to lay bare the beds of her 
rivers, up-heave her valleys, and open the store-house of 
her exhaustless treasures. 

Peculiar Characteristics. The history of gold-min- 
ing in California, develops characteristics apparently peculiar 
and unknown in other localities where that metal is found. 



THE RED- ROCK. 189 

The evidences on which miners in other regions rely, as the 
sure tests of its presence, are here distinctly marked ; but 
it is also found in large deposits where none of those signs 
appear. Not only in the mountains and " canons," but in 
the streams, on the plains far remote from any evidences of 
volcanic action, in clay and sand, as well as in volcanic 
masses, is gold daily discovered. 

Its Prevalence. California seems to have been Na- 
ture's favorite field, when she prepared her grounds for the 
golden harvest, and in the^spring-time of Creation sowed 
broad-cast over it the "yellow grains." 

Every day's "prospecting" in those localities which 
have been regarded as fruitless for mining purposes, tends 
to confirm the truth that the miner may expect to find gold 
anywhere in California. He may not always obtain it in 
sufficient abundance "to pay," as the phrase is; but the 
failure in quantity at first is not conclusive that a deeper 
"prospect," or another at a little remove, will not develop 
a deposit that would richly compensate for the labor and 
expense of " washing" the dirt. If there be an exception 
to this general rule, it is confined to sandy soil, which may 
not yield much gold. 

The Bed-Rock. The opinion is generally entertained 
by the miners that gold will not be obtained below one foot 
in depth of the " bed-rock." This bed-rock exists wherever 
gold is found. It often appears at the surface of the earth, 
but usually lies from two to ten feet, or even more below ; 
and' is either dark brown, approaching to black, or dark 
gray. 

The general opinion is that the brown rock is slate, and 
that the gray is granite. In the hills, canons, and some dry 
surface diggings, this bed appears to be rock that has been 



190 

heated until its original characteristics are destroyed ; and 
the superincumbent mass was probably thrown upon it in 
a hot state ; but some intelligent miners insist that this bed- 
rock is slate only, and that granite could not have been 
brought, by the action of heat and moisture, to the condition 
in which the gray bed is found. This apparently burned 
bed is soft, and may be easily broken with a light pick. 

The Hill Diggings. In the "coyote" hill diggings, 
the grains of gold are found in the crevices of this rock, 
and on its surface, mingled commonly with natural earth ; 
but they are occasionally obtained from the body of the 
rock itself In the majority of the ''surface" diggings, the 
bed-rock is in its natural state, and, of course, no gold is 
found in it. 

Location of the Leads. In quartz mines the " leads" 
are generally on the bed-rock, or in its crevices ; but they 
are sometimes found several feet above it. In all ' ' hill 
diggings " these leads or veins of gold vary in breadth and 
thickness from a few inches to many feet ; but their length 
depends on the locality. If the lead is struck high up on 
the hill or mountain, it generally terminates, or, in miner's 
lano-uao-e, "runs out," at the bottom of the first canon, or 
gorge, towards which the bed-rock inclines. Keeping on the 
latter, the miner " drifts," or penetrates, into the mountain ; 
following the lead in all its ramifications, which, especially 
in quartz leads, are as easily distinguished from the sur- 
rounding deposits, as would be a vein of pure gold. Under 
him is the bed-rock ; around, and above him, is the reddish 
or grayish deposit — soft, moist, and crumbly — which he 
excavates as he proceeds ; and on the bed-rock, in its crev- 
ices, or near the rock, surrounded by the deposit, is the 
quartz lead, a hard, smooth, glassy mass, abounding in 



THE QUARTZ. 191 

seams, and appearing to have been forced violently into its 
position. 

If the lead is struck near the foot of the mountain, or 
hill, its continuance can only be determined bj working it. 
This uncertainty presents one of the hazards of the miner. 
But he is not without some guide in such a case ; for, it is 
ascertained, and is, at these mines, a rule that, in general, 
the leads run in a north-westerly direction. By an^ inspec- 
tion, therefore, of the surrounding locality, he may approxi- 
mate towards a certainty as to what point the lead will 
probably terminate. 

If the lead be struck near the bottom of the first canon 
lying north-westerly from his '' prospect," and the bed-rock 
incline but little in that direction, he concludes that he is 
near the termination of the gold deposit ; and it will, prob- 
ably, "run out" in that canon; but if the inclination of 
the bed-rock is great, the lead may lie below the nearest 
canon, and run out in a deeper one beyond the intervening 
hill or mountain, through which the object of the miner's 
search may extend. 

Again, if the lead be struck near the foot of a canon with 
an indifferent result, and the bed-rock rise in a north- west- 
erly direction into the body of the hill or mountain, the 
miner concludes that it will be fruitless to open the mine — 
it being another general rule that the yield of gold increases 
towards the bottom of the canon ; and, if only a small quan- 
tity be found there, a larger quantity may not be anticipated 
at a higher elevation. 

The Quartz is gray in some leads, and rose, white, or 
brown in others. Some of it is coarse and very hard ; and 
a portion is fine and crumbly. It is generally opake, but 
in some leads specimens are found which are quite transpar- 



192 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

ent. Quartz, bj many of the miners, is called the " ore of 
gold;" and they believe that the metal was created in com- 
bination with it. The particles of gold are often so minute 
as to be imperceptible to the eye, even on a clean, newly- 
broken surface of rock. Sometimes, however, the metal is 
found, in large deposits, in the seams and crevices of the 
quartz, and not unfrequently these deposits are a thin, 
continuous body, consisting of many ramifications running 
between a number of small pieces of the rock, serving as 
ligaments to hold them together. In such instances, by the 
stroke of a hammer, the quartz will fall out of its place, 
leaving a large pronged nugget of gold. Near the city of 
Nevada such a specimen was found, which weighed twenty- 
five pounds ! 

Standing in the chamber of the drift, or opening made into 
the mountain, the impression produced on the mind, by the 
broken, crowded state of the quartz in the lead, and its marked 
distinctness of formation from all the surrounding matter, is, 
that by whatever process the gold and the quartz may have 
become combined, the lead is not their original bed, but 
that the mass was thrown there by volcanic action ; that por- 
tions of it were crushed and subjected to intense heat, by 
which much of the fine gold was disintegrated, melted to- 
gether, and forced between the larger fragments of quartz ; 
and that thus were formed the irregular molten lumps 
which are found in the leads. 

Those masses of ejected quartz, surrounded by the red- 
dish, or ashy deposit, then also in a hot state, appear to 
have been thrown upon the bed-rock, and to have remained 
there for unnumbered ages, and until that rock, either by 
the action of heat and moisture, or some other cause, has 
itself become, in many instances, soft and crumbly. A strong 



« COYOTE DIGGINGS," ETC. 193 

smell of sulphur exists in all the quartz leads ; and they are 
found principally in the hills and mountains. 

"Coyote Diggings." Those "hill diggings" which 
yield "grain" gold, unconnected with quartz, in which the 
metal is found in the seams of the bed-rock, and also in and 
upon the rock itself, are named " Coyote " [Kiote] diggings, 
from the coyote, or wild dog, which burrows in the hills. 
It is found, generally, that the bed-rock and the superin- 
cumbent deposit have some resemblance in color ; thus, if 
the latter resembles a brick mass, the former is dark brown, 
or nearly black ; but if the latter resembles ashes, the former 
is gray ; and because the dark bed-rock is generally located 
in a higher position than the gray, it is inferred that the 
former is slate, and the latter granite. Some persons, how- 
ever, maintain that the bed-rock in these hills is uniformly 
slate, and that the superincumbent material is quartz. The 
characteristics of the gray bed are very unlike those of the 
dark ; the gray being much harder than the dark, coarser 
grained, less moist, and uniformly lower in relative position. 
The gold on the dark bed is coarser, and, therefore, less 
pure, than that on the gray bed ; for the smaller the par- 
ticles of metal are, the less foreign substance will they 
contain. 

"Surface Diggings" are confined generally to the 
gorges and low lands. " Digging " is the miner's term for 
any description of land which contains particles of gold ; 
and the miner may, as a general rule, strike his spade in 
any place, with the reasonable expectation that he will find 
the object of his search. Many of the valleys and gorges 
lying east and north of the Sacramento river have been dug 
over without reference to the color or character of the soil ; 
and, in passing through them, it may easily be determined 
17 



194 MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

where the miner's hopes "were realized, and where they were 
deferred. In the former instances, the ground has been up- 
turned to a great distance in all directions. — in some places 
to the depth of a foot, and in others to the depth of five or 
six feet. Here are numerous piles of clean rubble stones, 
which were separated from the earth in the process of 
washing. 

In some sections, the whole surface, as far as the eye can 
extend, is but a succession of deep pits, high mounds of 
washed earth, innumerable pyramids of stones, with lumber, 
broken sluices, toms, cradles, and other tools used in mining. 
The fortunate proprietors, judging that they had reaped 
the golden harvest here, have "abandoned," and gone to 
prospect in yet untried fields, for a richer yield. 

It is not, however, certain that they have collected all 
the gold in the old grounds. A subsequent occupier may 
gather a larger and finer harvest than the fonner. It is 
not uncommon that the same localities are washed over 
several times with profit; and latterly, since unoccupied 
claims have become scarce, it is customary to work as long 
as '• the claim will pay,'' even though the daily return may 
diminish; for nature did not sow her golden grains in Cal- 
ifornia with an even hand, and though the harvest to- 
day may be small, it may to-morrow exceed all fonner 
example. 

Low Lands. In the term, '-lowlands," are compre- 
hended all the valleys, even those which are in elevated 
situations among the mountains. Many of the latter are 
several miles in extent. Generally, in these groimds, the 
gold is found within the depth of two or three feet ; but it 
is sometimes obtained as far down as the earth is a coai*se 
mixture of gravel with occasional particles of quartz, even 



THEORIES OF THE GOLD DEPOSITS. 195 

to the bed rock. The presence of the gravel and quartz 
is to the miner an indication that the localities were once 
covered with water. 

In all these surface dioro-ino-s the srold particle is fjrener- 
ally small, a mere scale, or a grain, varying from a size 
less than a pin's head to that of a pea. The larger pieces 
are known among the miners as •• lumps and nuggets ;* ' 
and some of these have been found which weighed many 
pounds. These scales and grains are generally elongated, 
and flat, sucli as would be formed by throwing a quantity 
of melted gold, with a horizontal sweeping motion, upon a 
sui'face of water ; and they are mingled witli the earth, 
more or less numerously, in leads or courses. 

Theories of the Gold Deposits. The opinion pre- 
vails, among those who have examined this mining region and 
are deemed competent judges of the subject, that the valleys, 
low grounds, and gorges, were formerly the beds of streams 
and lakes: that these streams and lakes were formed by 
some convulsion of nature, which uphove the foundations 
of the deep on this coast, and fused and grained the gold ; 
that the particles were thrown into those bodies of water at 
the time of the eruption : that, by the annual rains, and 
melting snows, other particles were afterwards washed 
gradually into them, from the volcanic elevations among 
which they were situated, and that the latter process was 
continued until the ''waters were dried up,'' or displaced 
by some other eruption, leaving the treasure to become 
imbedded by the lapse of time and the accumulations of the 
soil. This hypothesis is considerably supported by the fact 
that very little surface-gold, comparatively, is found on the 
sides of the mountains adjacent to surface-diggings. 

The theory is sometimes advanced that these lakes and 



196 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

rivers existed from the beginning ; that they "were drained, 
and the gold grains simultaneously formed and deposited on 
their dry beds, by yolcanic action, and that in time the gold 
has been there covered by the annual accumulations of the 
soil, and its own specific gravity, which gradually sank it 
below the surface. These theories suppose the gold to have 
been created a native metal, its combination with quartz, and 
the quartz and coyote leads to be the result of the eruption 
which difiused the metal over the surface. (See pp. 192-3.) 

The idea is entertained by other persons that all the gold 
originally existed in the form of ore in quartz rock : that, 
by volcanic heat, it was fused, separated, and scattered over 
the immense gold region of Cahfornia ; that, by the wash 
of rains and its own gravity, it gradually sank into the 
earth, until its progress was stopped by the bed-rock, or by 
some hard soil ; and that often, particles were washed down 
the hill-sides into the ravines and streams, where they were 
covered with earth by the action of water. On this hypoth- 
esis^ the coyote leads and siiperincnmhent mass were 
formed by the same volcanic action. 

Another theory is advanced, which rejects the idea that 
either heat or volcanos had any connection with the subject. 
Starting with the proposition that gold was created in com- 
bination with quartz rock, it is claimed that rivei*s, in find- 
inoj their channels throuo:h hills, have come in contact with 
this rock, and, by constant action on it for ages, have cut 
the gold into particles and dust, and distributed it on the 
bars and eddies amonor the sand and crravel of their beds. 
It is further explained, on this theory, that the dry diggings 
are places where quartz, containing gold, has been exposed 
to the action of rains and the atmosphere, and has crumbled 
away, leaving the gold in the form of dust or grains scattered 



WET SURFACE DIGGINGS. 197 

on the ground, into Avhich, by its own gravity and the an- 
nual rains, it gmdually sank. But this theory offers no 
explanation of the origin of the coyote and quartz leads — 
found, as they are. surrounded by a material of a secondary 
formation, which no agent but fire could have produced, and 
no power but a volcano could have thrown into such a posi- 
tion. Xor does this theory explain how the quartz, which 
crumbled to fragments and disengaged the gold, became 
scattered over these plains, gorges, and mountains. 

'•Wet Surface Diggings.'* The beds of streams are 
thus termed, and they are laid bare by "fluming," a process 
which will be described on a subsequent page. The watei-s, 
as well as the lands of California, embosom rich deposits of 
gold, and that which is obtained from the former is gener- 
ally finely gi*ained and very pure. Notwithstanding the 
surrounding suiface-soil of the country may be sand to the 
depth of a foot or more, the beds of the creeks and rivei's 
ai'e, to a great extent, gravel mixed often with reddish 
clay, which rests on a substratum of granite rock. The 
metal is principally found on the bars, and on the rims of 
eddies and whirlpools, and is very seldom, if ever, obtained 
in '-paying quantities,*' in the deep water. 

Before the discovery of this important fi\ct, many a miner 
expended all the accumulations of his previous toil in fruit- 
less fluming, on the supposition that the deposit would be 
found in the whole bed. and especially in the deep places ; 
but experience, at length, demonstrated that the specific 
gravity and shape of the gold particle is such, that the ordi- 
nary currents are sufficient to bear it along, until it passes 
upon a bar or point considerably higher than the general bed 
of the stream, when, owing to the check given to its pro- 
gress by that obstruction, it will sink sufficiently to be 
IT* 



198 aOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

caught. If not arrested in this way by one bar, it may 
be by another. 

The theory is the same with respect to eddies and whirl- 
pools ; their motion is sufficient to float the particle until it 
reaches their edges, which check the progress of both the 
water and its burthen, and the greater weight of the latter 
causes it then to sink. Some of the streams have made rich 
returns for the labor of "fluming;" while the yield of 
others has barely paid the expense, and many more have 
proved to be a total failure. 

Diversion of Streams. In the northern and eastern 
sections of the state nearly all the creeks and rivers have 
been " flumed " at various points. The Feather, the Yuba, 
the American, the Cosumnes, the Mokelumne, the Calavera, 
with their forks and many of their tributaries, as well as a 
large number of the creeks that empty into the Sacramento 
and the San Joaquin, bear frequent and astonishing evi- 
dence of the mighty efforts, and great sacrifices which man 
will make, to secure a pittance of the glittering bauble ! 
The beds of many of the streams are laid dry at different 
points, for distances ranging from twenty rods to two or 
three miles ; and all the water which formerly flowed in 
them is now carried several feet above them in spacious 
plank ''flumes," while their old channels are covered with 
large stacks of clean rubble stones, piles of " washed dirt," 
deep pits, trenches, wooden sluices, various broken tools, 
household utensils, barrels, tubs, and cast-off clothing. 
Indeed, the more extensive works look like the encampment 
of a routed army, which had been careful to affix to every- 
thing left behind the seal of destruction and desolation. 
The survey is certainly rather gloomy than otherwise. 

Besides the gold obtained from these localities, — the 



EXTENT OF THE GOLD REGIONS. 199 

quartz^ the coyote^ the dnj^ and the loet-surface diggings, 
where extensive leads are struck, — it is not unfrequently 
found in nuggets of considerable size and in grains, in 
localities where no leads exist, and no signs of its presence 
appear. Instances have occurred, in which persons, em- 
ployed in their domestic labor, have exhumed an isolated 
lump weighing many ounces ; and, in other instances, several 
hundred dollars in grain gold have been taken, in a few 
hours, from less than a square rod of ground. But at this 
point the charm dissolved. No more gold was to be found in 
either place. These may be called anomalies even in Cali- 
fornia, where nature has administered to the " wise in the 
wisdom of this world, so significant a reproof;" and they 
corroborate the prevailing belief here, that the whole coun- 
try has been the bed of streams and lakes. 

Extent of the Gold Regions. That portion of the 
state which is popularly denominated the ''gold region," 
comprises the counties of Klamath, Trinity, Shaster, Sierra, 
Butte, Placer, Eldorado, Yuba, Tulare, Nevada, Sutter, 
Calaveras, Tuolumne, Mariposa, Syskiyou and Humboldt. 
In general terms, these counties embrace the larger portion 
of the northern and eastern divisions, — being a tract of 
country about four hundred miles long from north to south, 
and about two hundred miles in average width. 

This region includes but a small part of the agricultural 
lands of the state. Lying south and west of the former, and 
mostly between the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers on the 
east, and the coast on the west, they are known as the " val- 
ley lands," being the great plain of the Sacramento, and the 
Nappa Suisun, San Joaquin, Contra Costa, San Jose, and 
San Juan valleys. The farming districts also include 
extensive plains in the extreme south, being in the counties of 



200 OOLI> MIXES, MIXING AND MIXERS- 

San Louis Obispo. Santa Earlvu*a, Los Angeles, ;uid San 
Piego. These agrieultimil lands constitute about one quar- 
ter of the vrhole area of the state : and the \-alkn'Si w^aslied 
bv the Saonimento and San Joaquin rivei"^ an^ the larger 
portion of them. 

Gold has now been found in the Saenuuento and the San 
Joaquin \-allevs. and in the coast counties of S;m Diego. Santa 
lx\rbara. Monterey and Santa Cruz, and also in Xapa 
county. AMiy, then, should either be excluded fi\>m the 
*• gold region *' ? It is true that large quivntities have 
not been obtained in the two ^-alleys : but it is also true 
that a thorough examination h;is noi been there made — the 
minei^ having generally gone to the mountains, under the 
impivssion that the plains containeil little or no gv^ld. 

The only perceptible difference between the general fea- 
tures of these plains and the low lands forming the ** dry 
surface diggings*" — which have yieldcil so richly in the 
assumed '* gold region " — is that the former are very evea 
and level, and are mostly destitute of trees and foliage, 
while the latter aiv gently *• ix>lling" or uneven land, and 
aiv. in some places, sjxirsely wooded with oaks, pine, hem- 
lock, and spruce. The soil of K»th. though not generally. 
jS. in some respects, simihir — s;\nd. gravel, and clay, Knng 
common to both. All the high lamis of the state aiv uni- 
form in their essential chamcteristics — Wing an irregular 
succession of hills and mountains, sejxiratetl by craggy 
chasms and deep nwines, with n;u*row \-allevs interspei"^Hi, 

Many of these hills and mountains, in the north and east, 
are thinly coveiwi with agev.1 and sun-scoivheil phies and 
hemlocks : and those in the south i\4id west with similar 
tives. but princijxilly with immense iwiwixxls — a timlvr 
resembling pine except in the color, which is like that of 



DIVERSION OF STKEAMir!. l!01 

rod codar. No young gro>vtli appears. Others, in both 
sections, are but huge elevations of ruptured and displaeed 
i*ock, covered with evidences of volcanic eruptions, and 
capped -with perpetual sno\YS. The surface soil of the moun- 
tains at the soutli and \vest, "where any exists, is a reddish 
sand and clay, varying in depth from one tVx>t to ten feet. 
That of the north and east has less clay in its composition. 
•The substratum of tlie former is almost invariably either a 
reddish or a grayish gravel, resting on a bed-rock : and 
that of the latter is, in some instances, like the former, and 
in othoi'S is composed of the brick-colored or the ashy de- 
posit already described. 

The whole state of California may. with propriety, be 
termed a volcanic region. The Sierra Nevadas. or Snow 
Mountains, extend through its entire length, entering at 
its south-eastern bomuhny and leaving at its north-eastern. 
A long spur or branch makes out from the latter point, iu 
a south-westerly direction into the state, and unites with 
tlie Coast Range at about the 40° of north latitude. That 
range is properly a continuation of the promontory of Lower 
California. It divides the state, longitudinally, into two 
divisions, at the mean distance of about sixty miles from the 
ocean, and. at its northern boundary, spreads out into a con- 
fuset.! collection of broken mountains, which cover a larijc 
extent of country. From the two principal ranges proceed 
several spurs, some of which traverse the state in a south- 
westerly and others in a north-westerly direction ; and the 
sliore of the ocean is lined by lofty elevations. In general 
terms, therefore, it may be said that the state is an irregu- 
lar succession of hills and towering, craggy, barren moun- 
tains, embosoming a proportionably small territory of low 
lands. All those mountains and hills, and man}^ of the val- 



202 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

leys, present indications of a volcanic origin. While in 
some localities the rocks are natural, and the strata regular, 
in others they are broken and irregular. In frequent 
instances they appear to be of igneous formation, and, as 
well above as below the surface, are interspersed with a sub- 
stance which in some places resembles leached ashes, and in 
others wet brick-dust. Lava and fragments of quartz are often 
found embedded in the seams of the rocks and between the^ 
several strata. These characteristics are more strongly- 
marked in the north and east than in the south and west, 
but they exist throughout the state. The theories enter- 
tained of the origin of the gold lead to the conclusion that 
all the valleys may contain that mineral. This general 
view of the prevailing characteristics of the hills, mountains, 
and valleys, is presented to show that, so far as evidence 
derived from nature may tend to determine the point, the 
whole state, and, doubtless, a much larger territory, is a 
" o;old reo;ion." 

Prospecting. Before the miner can intelhgently 
" prospect" for gold, he needs to be made acquainted with 
the principal facts in the preceding history. Prospecting is 
a practical examination of the country, and test of the soil, 
for the purpose of locating a " mining claim." In pursuit 
of this object, the miner shoulders his spade and gun, and, 
with a supply of provisions for several days, sallies forth 
along the streams, through the valleys, over the mountains, 
and into the ravines. Perhaps he has a companion ; though 
he is often a " lone wanderer." At night he selects a place 
of repose beneath the spreading branches of some friendly 
tree, strikes a fire to keep oiF the bears and coyotes, and, 
after despatching his humble meal, " wraps the drapery of 
his " blue blanket around him, and " lies down to * * ^ * 



PROSPECTING. 203 

dreams." He has accomplished nothing. In the morning 
he is early on his errand ; and, perhaps, wears away the 
day with no better success. 

At length, however, he '' strikes a spot " which prospects 
favorably. If it be in an eddy or a rift, he " pans the 
dirt" on the spot, until he has determined satisfactorily 
that it will probably "pay wages" above the expense of 
" baring the bottom," by " fluming," or other less costly- 
means. If it be in " dry diggings" of any kind, he has 
arrived at this inspiring conclusion by sinking a shaft about 
five feet square, " panning " as he descended, and has found 
that th^ nearer he approaches to the "bed-rock" the 
" richer the dirt pans." He thinks it will be safe to work 
the mine, so long as each pan of the dirt continues to yield 
the number of dimes which were produced by the few last 
" prospects." If the spot is on high ground, he has sunk 
his shaft to the bed-rock, has found that it inclines north- 
westerly, and has tested the dirt. Perhaps he has examined 
the rock itself, by breaking up its surface, and has found 
that it yields large grains or scales of gold ; or he may 
have struck a " lead " or seam in the rock, the dirt in which 
yields richly. If the spot be a "quartz lead," the pros- 
pector has powdered the quartz and separated the gold from 
the flour by the same process. 

The Pan used in prospecting and mining is made of sheet 
iron, and, in size and form, resembles the common tin milk- 
pan. Panning is performed by submerging a panful of the 
dirt in water, and then stirring and working it by the 
hands of the operator, to break the lumps and gradually dis- 
solve the whole mass, which is borne off in a thick, muddy 
cloud by the stream in which the pan is placed. This pro- 
cess leaves on the bottom of the pan all the gold which the 



204 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

dirt contained — the specific gravity of the metal preventing 
it from passing off in the current which holds the dirt in 
solution. A skilful operator will lose very few of the 
grains. This was the primitive process of all mining in 
California. 

If water is not to be had on the spot, the prospector 
must, of course, seek it and convey his burthen to it in sacks 
or vessels. The miners generally estimate that the dirt 
which yields a dime to the pan pays good wages ; but mines 
are worked which yield less, while some dirt yields a dollar, 
and even a larger value, to the pan. 

" Getting Color." In " prospecting," when the 
miner finds gold, he " gets color," as it is expressed in 
mining terms ; and if it be but a single grain, he is stimu- 
lated to sink his prospect deeper. But sometimes he fails 
to ''get color" until he reaches the bed-rock, or within 
three or four inches of the bed ; and then all the gold found 
there will lie either on its surface or within those few 
inches ; hence a thorough miner seldom stops short of that 
limit, for some of the richest and most durable "leads" 
that have yet been struck in California were thus situated. 

Water. When the miner has located his claim, his next 
great object is water. In some localities he is not troubled 
for this essential article ; but in others, the outlay necessary 
to obtain it is a heavy mortgage on the first yields of the 
mine. During the winters, or rainy seasons, there is com- 
paratively little want of it ; but the long summers dry up 
many of the small streams. At first, the failure of the 
streams could not be remedied ; and water, in many places, 
could only be procured during the winter. But the match- 
less energy which has characterized the progress of every 
enterprise in California has, at length, to a considerable 



CANALS. 205 

extent, obviated this difficulty, and it will ultimately be 
■wholly removed. Many of the durable streams have been 
tapped at various points, and portions of their supply dis- 
tributed, in divers directions, at the expense of individuals 
for their own use. As mining increased, and miners multi- 
plied in number, distributing themselves more and more 
over the country, the demand for water became so great as 
to command the attention of capitalists, and many incorpo- 
rated companies have been formed to provide water for min- 
ing purpose. 

Canals. Nearly all the rivers, and most of their 
branches, in the region occupied by the miners, are laid un- 
der contribution by these companies, and by private persons. 
In some instances the natural beds of the streams are laid 
dry, except during the winter. The Pitt river, the Eeather 
and its north, east, middle and south forks, the Yuba and 
its three forks, the Bear, the American and its three forks, 
the Cosumnes, the Mokelumne, the Calaveras, and the 
Stanislaus rivers, and Deer creek, are sustained, during the 
long dry seasons, by the melting snows on the Sierra Nevada 
mountains ; and those rivers afford the miner a continual 
supply. 

The works of several of these companies may justly be 
termed stupendous, considering the rocky, broken, and moun- 
tainous country in which they are situated, and the great 
expense at which materials, labor, and implements for their 
construction, must have been procured. In many parts of 
the country no wagon roads exist, nor can they be ever 
made; and provisions and merchandise of every kind are 
" packed " into the mountains on mules, each bearing about 
two hundred and fifty pounds. 

The " Bear river and Auburn canal," in Placer county, 
18 



206 

is a fiiir specimen of tliese works, excepting, perhaps, in 
the length of the main cut. That work distributes the 
waters of Bear river over several hundred square miles. 
The principal canal is six feet in width by four deep, is 
thirty-six miles long, and is connected with thirty-six miles of 
lateral canal. It has several reservoirs on elevated ground, 
from which, as from the lateral canals, the water is con- 
ducted in a great number of small ''ground sluices," from 
one "digging" to another, winding around on the moun- 
tain sides, and through the valleys, for very long distances. 
Tliese sluices are about a foot deep, and of the same width. 

Aqueducts. As a matter of course, in such a country, 
any canal of considerable length must be connected with 
frequent and often with long and lofty aqueducts. These 
must extend from mountain to mountain, often far up 
towards their summits, and across deep and wide gorges ; and 
they must be made sufficiently water-tight to retain, if pos- 
sible, every drop of that valuable current, the whole sup- 
ply being but a bare sufficiency. The "Bear river and 
Auburn canal " has several such aqueducts. One of them is 
not so remarkable for its general elevation as for its great 
length, extending more than two miles, at heights ranging 
from ten to thirty feet; but the trunk of another is re- 
ported to span about four hundred feet, and at the highest 
point to be more than one hundred feet from the ground. 

The water is brought to each "digging," and is furnished 
by the inch, measured on the graduated scale. The 
weekly cost of a sufficient supply for one "torn" or washer, 
is from ten to sixteen dollars, at present prices ; but in more 
extensive diggings, where several sluices or toms may be 
operated with advantage, three or four times that quantity 
is required. The water is often used several times over, 



SLUICES. 207 

being conducted to several diggings through the same chan- 
nel ; and, in such cases, the price is graduated less and less, 
to the several miners in their order, until the water becomes 
worthless from the amount of earth it contains. 

There are at present in the mining districts about four 
thousand miles of principal and lateral canal. The '' ground 
sluices " or ducts cannot be easily estimated. The face of 
the whole country, on hills, plains, valleys and mountain 
sides is literally ribbed with them. 

The water of several large streams is used so many times 
over, that it becomes a sluggish volume of thin mud. The 
Feather, the Yuba, the American, and their branches, and 
many of the creeks, have not been clear for years ; and their 
contents, discharged into the majestic Sacramento, darken 
its waters for a hundred miles, so deeply, that, when agi- 
tated, they resemble slowly-moving clouds of dust. Indeed, 
fears are expressed, that its navigation will be injuriously 
unpeded by the deposit of this mud on its bottom ; and, but 
for the fact that the river is subject to, at least, a yearly 
flood, which produces a very rapid and strong current, the 
apprehension would, before many years, become a reality. 
Notwithstanding this, it remains a subject not to be disre- 
garded. 

Sluices. Having procured a supply of water, the 
miner prepares to " work his claim," by making such pre- 
liminary arrangements for convenience and economy, as its 
location and surrounding circumstances indicate. It may 
be that his claim is situated on ground so much lower than 
the stream from which he draws his supply, that he can get 
sufficient fall to answer his purpose, without resort to more 
expensive means ; but if it be not thus located, he must 



208 

elevate the water by cheap machinery, until it will flow into 
the higher end of his plank sluice. 

When the supply is purchased of one of the companies, 
it is usually brought at once to the proper point. If the 
surface of the claim is sand or other earth, showing no 
"color," the miner excavates down to the coarse strata, 
before he begins to wash, unless he thinks it cheaper to 
wash the whole mass. He then builds and locates his 
''sluice," which is, in fact, a plank "flume." 

Flumes vary in length from forty to one hundred feet, 
and are about two feet in width, by one foot deep. They 
are constructed in sections, each being the length of a 
plank ; and one end of each section is so much narrower 
than the other, that the different sections may be readily 
united, thus forming one continuous open trough, of sucli 
length as the miner deems most effective to retain the largest 
proportion of gold. 

" Riffles." Across the bottom of this sluice, near one 
end, the miners place a small piece of board called a "rif- 
fle." It is about an inch and a half in height, and is re- 
tained there by a cleat on each side of the sluice, the whole 
forming a low dam. Some miners use two, placed several 
feet apart. On the mining grounds these are called 
"riffles."* 

The sluice is placed on benches, the lower end resting 
very near, and perhaps upon, the ground, and the upper 
end raised to an angle of about fifteen degrees. Generally, 
the riffle section is placed very nearly in a horizontal posi- 
tion, to make the current of water at that point more 

* Properly ripples. Their use is to check the current, and thus allow the 
graius of gold a longer time to sink below them, to the bottom of the sluice. 



THE ''TOM." — THE ''riffle-board." 209 

smooth and cveiij so that the grains of gold, coursing along 
the bottom of the sluice, may not be forced over the riffles 
and lost. The current must be so graduated that the jBnest 
particles will sink to the bottom before they reach the riffles, 
and their specific gravity will generally bring them down, 
in a current which will bear away all the dissolved dirt. 
The longer the sluice, the better it will secure this result. 
Its upper end is placed near the spot from which the earth 
is dug, and its location is changed as occasion may require. 
This is all the preparation which some miners make for 
washing. They are content with the quantity of gold 
which is saved by the riffles in the sluice. 

The "Tom." Others, influenced by what they esteem 
necessary economy, add to the lower extremity a machine 
that is denominated the "tom." In its general outline it 
much resembles a small scow boat, and is about fifteen feet 
long by four feet wide, and ten inches deep in the centre, 
shallowing to a sharp or shovel edge, at one end, and the 
other having an end-board about five inches high. The 
bottom is as spherical lengthwise as those dimensions 
necessarily require ; and at the shallow or shovel end it is 
made of sheet-iron, extending back nearly to the centre of 
the machine, and thickly perforated with circular holes an 
inch in diameter. 

The "Riffle-Board." Under this " tom-iron," and 
about eight inches distant, is the riffle-board. This is about 
six feet in length, is of equal width with the tom, and is so 
attached to it as to receive the water from the tom-iron 
and conduct it in a direction opposite to that which it had in 
the plank sluice. This riffle-board has sides about four 
inches high, and riffles like those in the plank sluice ; l)ut 
18* 



210 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

placed much nearer to each other. The dimensions here 
given describe the largest size of this machine. 

Being thus prepared, the miner lets into his plank sluice 
a quantity of water sufficient to make a brisk running 
stream about two inches in depth. Thence it passes into 
the torn, and descends through the perforated iron into the 
riffle-board, from which it runs to the ground. With his 
long-handle spade, he digs up the coarse earth, and casts it 
into this stream, at the upper end of the sluice, filling it for 
the distance of about twenty feet to a point within three 
inches of its top. All the stones are thrown into the sluice ; 
for closely adhering to many of them are fine grains of 
gold. While the water is coursing its way through the 
sluice, an assistant, with a long-tined fork, is employed in 
throwing out the washed stones left by the cuiTent. In 
doing this, he always works in a direction up the stream, 
the object being not to disturb the earth in the sluice. One 
or two men are constantly replenishing it at its upper end, 
while the contents are dissolving and passing ofi" at the lower. 
The assistant also clears the tom, by removing the stones 
which were too small to be cast out of the sluice with the 
fork, and have passed down with the current. This process 
is sometimes continued for a week, without giving any atten- 
tion to the riffles. Some miners use only the tom in min- 
ing. The earth is then placed in it, and is stirred with a 
hoe or fork, the water being conducted upon it by a hose or 
other means. 

The Cradle. Another machine, much used in washing 
gold, is the "cradle." It stands on rockers, and, in form, 
resembles a common cradle without the head-top. The 
principle of its construction is the same as that of the tom, 
the perforated iron being placed about midway in its bottom. 



THE CKADLE. 211 

Beneath that iron, and about four inches distant, is an 
apron placed in a slide, so that it may be readily with- 
drawn. The apron is a slight wooden frame, over which is 
stretched a piece of woollen cloth. Upon this the water 
running through the tom-iron first falls. At about an 
equal distance below this apron is set, by the same means, 
a riffle-board, like that used with the torn. One end of this 
board juts beyond the lower end of the apron, and the dis- 
solved dirt and water fall upon it from the latter and pass 
over the riffles to the ground. Under the whole the rockers 
are placed. The dirt is put upon one end of the bottom, 
in small quantities of about a common pail full, and the 
water is applied with a dipper in one hand of the operator, 
while, with the other, he rocks the cradle ; stopping occasion- 
ally to fork out the stones. When one supply of dirt is 
dissolved and it has passed through the iron and down upon 
the apron and riffles, another quantity is put into the cra- 
dle ; and the same process is repeated as often as desired. 

This machine was the first improvement made for wash- 
ing gold in California. It was intended as a process pre- 
liminary to the use of the pan ; which, in fact, can never 
be laid aside, but must always continue, as it ever has been, 
'' the cap-stone of the art." But the restless Anglo-Saxon 
could not long brook the idea of rocking his way to wealtli ; 
it was a process far too tardy to satisfy men who had left 
home and friends, and had come over the broad ocean many 
thousands of miles, to gather the shining dust. They de- 
sired to operate on a larger scale, and soon the plank sluice 
was substituted for the cradle, and subsequently still ap- 
peared the tom, which is the last flight of gen-ius in this 
direction. 



212 GOLD MINES. MINING AND MINERS. 

The Chinese prefer the cradle, because they can easily 
carry it from place to place, and it is a cheap machine. 

Sometimes large diggings are found which are not very 
rich, but will pay wages with a moderate outlay of labor. 
In such instances, if the bed-rock is within one or two feet 
of the surface, a ground sluice is dug through the digging, 
and the rock made to serve for its bottom. In the sluice 
thus formed, the dirt is washed in the same manner as in 
the plank sluice, without the aid of the tom, the irregular- 
ities in the rock forming the riffles. 

The Use op Quicksilver. Some miners use large 
quantities of quicksilver in gold-washing, and it is deemed 
almost impossible without it to save the finest gold. The 
process is to insert two or three extra riffles on the bottom 
of the sluice, or in the riffle-box if the tom alone is used. 
These are made a little higher than the gold riffles. The 
former are called quicksilver riffles; and a quantity of 
quicksilver, varying from five to thirty pounds in weight, 
is poured above them on the bottom of the sluice, or riffle- 
board, which operates as a dam to retain it, and over which 
the water, containing the dissolved dirt and grains of gold, 
must, of course, pass in its way through the sluice. The 
gold being invariably at the bottom, the fine as well as 
the course particles pass over the surface of quicksilver, 
become amalgamated with it, and are there safely held 
against the action of the water. 

Some miners set two riffles so near together as, with the 
sides of the sluice, to form a box sufficiently capacious to 
contain twenty or fifty pounds of quicksilver. They con- 
tend that the upper side of the box forms, a gold riffle, which 
will hold the coarse grains, and leave only the very fine 



213 

gold to be amalgamated, and that, by tins mode, the quick- 
silver will be servicable for a much longer time. 

In some of the best diggings the earth is so mixed with 
clay that the process of washing is attended with much 
difficulty. In those cases, the tom is more frequently used, 
because it is necessary that the dirt should be broken and 
stirred to facilitate the w^ork, and it can be retained in that 
machine until it dissolves; whereas, if the sluice only is 
used, much gold, held in hard lumps of clay, is borne away 
and lost. 

'' Panning Up." When the miner has continued his 
washing for a day or two, or in poor diggings for a week, 
he stops to " pan up." The water is shut out of the works, 
and the riffles are examined. The bottom of that section 
of the sluice containino; them is covered as hio-h as their 
top with the fruits of the washing, mixed with fine gravel 
and water, from one or two panfuls. When the surface 
water is removed, the remainder is the collected wealth of 
thousands of tons of earth presented upon a surface of a 
very few inches, and disposed according to the laws of 
gravitation and motion. That section of the sluice being 
slightly elevated at the end opposite, the depth of the watery 
contents is greatest at the riffles, becoming less and less as 
it recedes, until it terminates in a sharp edge, or "runs 
out " about four feet from the riffles. 

This edge, about a quarter of an inch in width, is gener- 
ally the only place in the deposit where the presence of 
gold is visible, the remainder of the mass presenting only 
the fine dark gravel. The gravity of the gold being such 
that when floated down it glides close to the bottom of the 
sluice, the successive particles are deposited at the extreme 
edge of those already deposited, and are gradually covered 



214 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINEEB. 

hj the fine gravel which secures them against further risk 
of loss. The gold is said never to mix with the gravel, but 
underlays it, spread over the bottom of the riffle. 

The contents of the riffles are next very thoroughly and 
carefully " dished out " into pans, — a spoon being used to 
collect the smallest remains. — and taken to the water, and 
"panned " by the hands of a skilful workman in the man- 
ner before described. In the bottom of the pans will be 
left only the shining fruits of the miner's toil, mixed, per- 
haps, with scales of mica, pyrites, and a few remaining 
particles of sand. 

In extensive w^orks, w^here the contents of the riffles are 
large, they are sometimes run through the " tom," and 
then, as well as when the tom only is used in washing, its 
riffle-board is drawn out, and the reduced volume is col- 
lected in the same way and panned. The whole is after- 
wards thoroughly dried and " bio wed " by a skilful miner, 
to separate the mica and sand from the gold. In the cradle 
much of the gold adheres to the woollen apron, and the 
contents are taken from that as well as from the riffle-board. 

If quicksilver has been employed in separating the gold, 
it is carefully collected by the same means, and strained 
through a buckskin bag. The quicksilver, with a little 
pressure, will pass through the buckskin, and may be 
caught in an iron vessel, but the gold will remain in the 
bag. The finest grains, even the "dust of gold," may be 
saved by this process. On examination, the quicksilver 
gold will be found mostly white, being covered with the 
silver. It is then deposited in an iron vessel, and heated 
until all the quicksilver is precipitated, and the gold is pre- 
sented with its yellow hue. If it is important to save this 
silver, a retort and condenser are required. 



DRIFTS OR TUNNELS. 215 

Tailings. The dissolved earth discharged by the sluices, 
tomSj and cradles, is denominated "tailings," and so imper-^ 
feet are all the modes yet used here to collect gold, that 
these may, in most instances, be washed over with profit. 
They pass down upon the ground, the water evaporates, and 
the dirt returns to its original state, often rich in wealth 
which the first seeker failed to secure. Instances are 
known where "tailings" have been twice washed, and at 
each time with as much profit as the original washing of 
the dirt realized. 

The miners believe that all the operations of the past and 
present, in the mines of California, are but preliminary steps 
to the ultimate full development of her resources ; and that 
the millions which have been drawn from those mines are 
only as the mist before the shower, in comparison with the 
exhaustless store of treasure which the Creator has deposited 
in her rugged, rocky fastnesses. 

The opinion, formerly quite prevalent, that no gold is to 
be found below the bed-rock, begins to yield to conclusions 
predicated on later developments. It is reported that on 
Wood's creek, near Sonora, in Tuolumne county, a prospect 
has been sunk about seventy feet, through two strata of 
bed-rock, which were very different in their appearance, and 
that the earth below both strata contained gold. If this 
report be true, it begins a new chapter in the history of 
mining in California. 

" Drifts" or Tunnels. If the claim be a " Coyote," 
the miner drifts into the hill, forming a tunnel sufficiently 
large for two or three persons to labor conveniently together, 
and to admit the operation of a small rail or barrow- way — 
the bed-rock being the foundation. This tunnel takes the 
direction of the gold lead, which may be on the surface of 



216 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

the rock, or in its seams and crevices; but its course is 
always clearly marked. The lead frequently ramifies as the 
drift is extended, and the miner can follow all its branches. 
Some of these drifts extend a thousand feet, and are Branched 
in two or three directions — forming long, winding, and 
damp passages, which remind the visitor of ancient laby- 
rinths, and those tales of under-ground horrors which are 
related in the romances of an earlier age. 

By the dim light of his candle the miner plies his toil — 
first digging down the superincumbent mass that surrounds 
him, and conveying it out of his drift. Then, with pick and 
hoe, he empties the crevices in the bed-rock of their con- 
tents, or digs the gold dirt wherever found, conveying it in 
his barrow, or on his railway, to the mouth of his drift, until 
he has accumulated many hundred cubic feet. He then 
washes this deposit, and separates the gold by one of the 
methods which have been described. The gold in these 
diggings is found in scales, rounded globules, grains, and 
often in nuggets. 

If the claim is a quartz lead, the miner must provide for 
another necessity, — tlie quartz must be,crushed ; and this is 
either a very expensive or a toilsome and tardy process. If 
a good mill is provided, it must be propelled by water or 
steam, and is attended with a large outlay. If hand mortars 
are used, the work proceeds very slowly; for the quartz 
must be pulverized to the fineness of flour, so that all the 
gold may be dislodged — the most of which, in quartz, is 
light dust. 

The quartz is obtained from the lead by drifting, in the 
same manner that gold dirt is taken from the " coyotes." 
The quartz yields readily to the stroke of the pick — falling 
in fragments of unequal size, and often of different colors. 



QUARTZ MILLS. 217 

It is then conveyed, on hand-barrows or railways, to the 
mouth of the drift, and when a sufficient quantity is col- 
lected it is taken to the mill. It is there broken with hand- 
hammers into pieces about the size of a hen's egg, and thus 
prepared to be crushed. By this time the mass resembles 
a huge pile of broken, dirty stone, having become soiled with 
common earth. 

Quartz Mills. All the quartz mills are constructed on 
the same general principle, but differ more or less in their 
arrangements. The object is to crush the quartz, wash it, 
and separate the gold, by a single operation ; or, in other 
words, the rock is put into the mill, and seen no more till its 
treasure is deposited in the riffles and quicksilver, over 
which the water has been carried by the operations of the 
mill. 

This machine may be denominated a huge mortar and 
pestles, and may be described as follows, namely, 

1st. The Mortar. This is a cast-iron trough, about six feet 
long, eight inches broad on the inside at the bottom, flaring 
to the width of a foot at the top, and about fourteen inches 
high. Its sides, ends, and bottom, are each about three 
inches thick. 

2d. A massive timber frame is set upright, substantially 
like that in which the saw-gate of a saw-mill slides. The 
bed timber of this frame is constructed to receive and firmly 
hold the mortar. 

3d. A large timber shaft has six or eight long wooden 
cogs, placed in serpentine order around the shaft, forming a 
circle, and extending along nearly its whole length. 

4th. The stampers are heavy, straight timbers, on one 
end of which is fastened a cast-iron face, weighing six or 
seven hundred pounds. There arc as many stampers as 
19 



218 GOLD MINES, MINERS AND MINING. 

cogs in the shaft, and they are fitted to exactly fill and 
cover the bottom of the mortar, leaving about two inches of 
space between them and its flaring upper sides. 

5th. The frame is set upright ; the mortar is firmly fitted 
in its place at the bottom ; the shaft is hung so that the 
several cogs, when in motion, will enter apertures made in 
the stampers; and the latter, placed perpendicularly, pass 
through slides in the upper end of the frame, so as to fall 
when lifted on the cogs by the motion of the shaft. 

6th. The hopper is so constructed and placed as to guide 
the pounded quartz into the space between the stamper and 
the upper edge of the mortar. 

7th. The water pipe. This is intended to keep the mortar 
filled with water when the mill is in operation. The stamp- 
ers, when in motion, constantly displace a quantity of the 
water which holds in solution the quartz flour and gold dust, 
and this loss must be supplied just as fiist and as regularly 
as it occurs. 

8th. The riffle -board and quicksilver. The former, placed 
in a slightly inclined position, is snugly fitted to the upper 
edge of the mortar, on the side opposite the hopper, so that 
all the water displaced by the motion of the stampers shall 
be thrown upon its surface. A wire-cloth screen, about six 
inches in width, is commonly inserted on the same edge of 
the mortar, to prevent the water from passing off too rapidly. 

This riffle-board is three-sided, running to a small width 
at the lower corner or end, and across it are placed several 
riffles. 

9th. To the end of this riffle-board is attached a wooden 
conductor, through which the concentrated stream is dis- 
charged into a vessel, called by the miners, "the amalgama- 
tor." This is a wooden box^ about six feet square and six 



THE AREATA. 219 

inches deep, containing from twenty to one hundred pounds 
of quicksilver ; and it is so connected with the motive power, 
as to have a horizontal, zig-zag motion when the mill is in 
operation. The dissolved earth and its contents pass into 
this amalgamator, and are expanded over the broad surface 
of the quicksilver ; the gold sinks, and is retained, while the 
water passes off through an aperture formed for that pur- 
pose in one side of the vessel. The preceding statement is 
a general description of a quartz mill. 

Its Operation. When the motive power is applied to 
the shaft, the stampers are lifted about eight inches in rapid 
succession, and, with the weight of about fourteen hundred 
pounds, fall on the quartz, which is constantly supplied 
through the hopper. The crushed rock and gold dust pass 
with the water upon the several riffle-boards, and from these 
into the amalgamator, in which the gold is saved, and the 
great object of mining is realized. 

The '^ Arrata." The arrangements and details of these 
mills are as various almost as the views or the whims of the 
miners. Those who desire to reduce the quartz to the finest 
possible powder, in order to save the minutest dust of gold, 
sometimes use the Mexican machine, called an " arrata." 
It consists of a large tub, about ten feet in diameter and 
eighteen inches in height, in the centre of which is an up- 
right shaft, having four arms within the tub. To each of 
these arms is attached a heavy stone [arrata], having one 
smooth side, which lies on the bottom. The shaft is moved 
by the same machinery that operates the stampers, and the 
liquid passes from the riffle-boards into the tub, where the 
quartz is subjected to the pressure and motion of these 
stones, and is gradually forced out of an aperture in the 
side, through a conductor, into the ''amalgamator." 



220 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

AYhen the quantity of quicksilver used in the mine is 
hirge, the gold is disengaged by the application of heat. 
For this purpose, a retort and receiver are necessary, — and 
the arrangements are generally made with due regard to 
economy. Two cast-iron kettles, of sufficient size, are pro- 
vided, to one of which a cover is closely fitted, having in 
its centre an aperture, over which a metallic tube is soldered. 
This tube is made to communicate with the other kettle when 
the cover is placed on the former, and thus the miner's retort 
and receiver are completed. The amalgam is poured into 
the retort, the cover fitted down, and the fire applied. As 
the quicksilver rarefies, it is conducted ofi" through the tube 
into the receiver, which is filled with water. The quick- 
silver being there condensed, may be again used, and the 
gold, freed from it, remains in the retort. The cover is then 
taken off, and the contents are stirred over the fire, to re- 
move any particles of quicksilver still remaining. 

The Miner's Safe. The miner, having obtained the 
gold, is next chiefly concerned for its safety. He is far up 
in the mountains and forests, surrounded by roving robbera 
and thievish, lurking Indians, and, in his frail shanty con- 
structed of boards or cloth, has no stone vaults or iron safes 
in which to secure his treasure. It is too heavy to be 
carried about his person, and if he secrete it in some hollow 
tree, or peculiar rock, or secret cave or crevice, the hiding- 
place may be discovered by the marauders who may chance 
to discover his visits to the spot. Under these circum- 
stances, he resorts to various expedients to secure his gold. 
Perhaps he digs a small pit under the stones on which he 
builds his fires, or under the " bunk "' on which he sleeps^ 
dreaming of home and loved ones, at night. So suspicious 
is he of treachery and wrong, that he keeps his place of 



VALUE OF THE GOLD. 221 

deposit a secret from his companions, if any he has, and in 
frequent instances even his real name is not known to them, 
nor is he known bj the same name in different diggings. 
This precaution is practised to secure protection against 
the depredations or the malice of those with whom he may 
have had difficulty in other places. 

Value of the Gold. The miner's gold, when *' bag- 
ged," is a currency in trade, on the mining grounds at the 
standard of seventeen dollars to the ounce ; and its value 
among the bankers at Marysville, Sacramento and San 
Francisco, ranges between sixteen and nineteen dollars, — 
graduated by the condition of the gold, the method by 
which it was collected, and its fineness. Its precise value 
as pure gold, which depends chiefly on its relative weight, 
termed its specific gravity, is not determined in this traffic, 
but the whole is purchased with its alloys, at the scale 
weight. It is often mixed with mica, copper, iron or pyrites, 
or auriferous sands, and its marketable value is accordingly 
affected. Gold collected by the aid of quicksilver, is es- 
teemed less valuable than that gathered by other means, as 
more or less silver adheres to the particles. Fine gold is 
purer than coarse, as it must contain less foreign matter ; 
and coarse gold, especially the heavy nugget, is always 
united with, quartz. 

Purchasers generally pound the lumps in an iron mor- 
tar before they weigh them, and they also blow all the finer 
gold. For this purpose, it is placed in a brass vessel, 
shaped precisely like the housekeeper's dust-pan, in which 
the gold is thoroughly shaken, the blower gently blowing 
upon it at the same time. The motion tends to bring the 
lighter substances upon the top of the pile, and to dispose 
them around its outer edge ; and, being much lighter than 
19* 



.222 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

• 

the gold J they are blomi off, while it remains in the pan. 
In this process of cleansing, the purchaser is careful not to 
blow too strongly, which would carry away, in the current 
of air, a portion of the miner's finest gold. 

Alloys. Gold, universally, is found alloyed to a greater 
or less extent with other metals ; and, generally, there is a 
uniformity of alloy in the gold of different countries. 
Silver, copper, and iron are common alloys, though less of 
the latter is found in combination with gold than of the 
two former. The gold hitherto obtained in California has 
yielded 89 58 per centum of pure metal. 

The miner may readily determine for himself, whether 
his gold is a mixture with mica, pyrites, or sand. These, 
being much lighter, can be readily detected, although they 
nearly resemble several shades of gold in color and lustre. 
If the whole mass be carefully poured on a clear surface of 
water, in a long glass vessel, the gold will be seen the first 
to sink to the bottom. If the water be thickened with 
earth, to the consistence of cream, the difierence of spe- 
cific gravity will be still more perceptible ; when the vessel is 
shaken, the gold, even its finest particles, will first disap- 
pear from the surface. Copper pyrites is not malleable, 
and breaks when pounded, whereas gold may be beaten 
into very thin sheets. Iron pyrites is hard, and does not 
readily yield to the stroke of the hammer ; but gold is al- 
most as soft as lead. These are the common tests, used on the 
mining grounds, to distinguish the gold from those counter- 
feits. 

To free the gold from these alloys, the usual practice is 
to place it in an open earthen vessel, and pour upon it ni- 
tric acid, and apply a strong gas or other flame to the bot- 
tom until nitric vapor rises. If the contents be pure gold 



IMPROVEMENTS. 223 

they will not be discolored by the process ; but if the sub- 
stances mentioned, or brass filings, are present, the liquid 
will become thick, and of a green color, tinged withSbJack. 
After the gold has cooled, it is washed thoroughly, and 
the operation repeated until all effervescence disappears; 
when the gold dust is freed from those impurities. 

The miner does not often practically concern himself with 
the various alloys of gold ; but if he desires to purify it, 
and is disposed to incur the expense and labor of procuring 
and arranging the necessary instruments and materials, the 
process is simple, and easily performed. The metal is placed 
in a proper crucible, surrounded by charcoal, and subjected 
to the heat, which may be produced on that non-conductor, 
by the focus formed with the Compound Blow- Pipe. The 
intensity of the heat thus produced, especially when salt- 
petre is added, is sufficient to dissipate, in gaseous forms, 
the foreign substances usually found in combination with 
the gold; 

Improvements. During the last year, ingenuity has 
been active in experimenting to improve the machines used 
in mining. The desire is so to adapt them as to save all 
the gold particles which are contained in the earth that is 
to be washed. It is well known that, as now constructed, 
not more than two thirds of the gold, on the most liberal 
estimate, is collected from the washed earth ; and inventive 
genius cannot, therefore, be employed in a more benevolent 
or useful effort. An improvement is proposed in the loca- 
tion and construction of the riffles. These are the great 
points, in the opinion of skilful miners, to which attention 
should be directed, as the riffles are the gold-savers, and it 
is not probable that any substitute for them can ever be 
successfully adopted. 



224 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS 

The model, to which reference is made, substitutes riffles 
of iron for those of wood, increases their number to eight or 
ten, gives to them the form of a prism, and pkices them in 
close proximity on the bottom of the sluice. The sharp or 
upper edge of the riffle is slightly curved against the cur- 
rent of water, with the view of eifecting a longer check in 
its downward passage, and thus securing more time for the 
gold particle to settle. The field of experiment not only 
embraces the saving of the gold, but the thorough washing 
of large quantities of earth in a shorter space of time. 
Wheels, to be propelled by water or steam, are constructed 
at an outlay of several thousand dollars, to raise the earth 
from its bed, and deposit it in spacious soaking vats, through 
which it is conducted upon the riffles. But experience has 
taught provident miners to be wary of embarking in these 
expensive operations ; and they, generally, and very wisely, 
prefer safety with slow gains, to the hazards of costly 
experiments, which may enrich them in a short time, but 
which oftener result in their ruin. 

The finest Gold is obtained from the quartz. In some 
of the rock the particles are so minute as to be invisible, 
and can only \q seen when collected. These are emphati- 
cally gold dust. The large specimens, often exposed in 
shop windows in the cities, are exceptions to the general 
rule. 

Rocks of quartz are occasionally found, which display 
their shining treasures in numerous seams and cavities. 
These are purchased at great prices by jewellers, and 
broken up into small pieces. They drop in various 
sizes, and shapes, and some of them assume forms resem- 
bling natural objects, as leaves, fruits, flowers, &c. — just 
enough of the rock adhering to the gold to give to the speci- 



225 

men life and effect. These pieces of quartz are manufac- 
tured into rings, pins, bracelets, &c., and are sold at specu- 
lators' profits. They are delicate and beautiful ornaments. 

A large part of the quartz gold is so fine that it can only 
bo collected by the use of quicksilver ; and but for the 
discovery of the mine at Almaden, the outlay which must 
have been made for this indispensable, even if the supply 
from other sources could have met the demand, would have 
materially abridged, if not wholly inhibited, quartz mining. 
That deposit of quicksilver ore was first opened in the year 
1845, the particulars of which have been related in a pre- 
ceding chapter. That event so materially reduced the cost 
of quicksilver, that the Barons Rothschild, who own simi- 
lar mines* in Mexico and South America, which are una- 
voidably worked at fir more cost than that of Almaden, 
could not successfully compete in the trade. After long 
negotiation between them and the proprietors of the latter 
mines, Baron, Forbes & Co., of tlie city of Mexico, and 
several Americans residing in San Francisco, an arrange- 
ment was concluded mutually fixing the price of quicksil- 
ver, for a term of years ; and thus the matter remains. At 
that time California had not disclosed her golden treasures, 
and whether, in view of that discovery, the proprietors of 
the quicksilver mine at Almaden were fortunate or unfor- 
tunate in their arrangement, is a question which cannot yet 
be determined. It is believed that this mine can supply 
the demand of the markets of the world for many years. 

Art, the Imitation of Nature. The reader can 
hardly have failed to see, that all the various methods of 
gold-washing, which have been described in the preceding 
pages, are human attempts to imitate nature, and are copied 
from the action of water in creeks, rivers and ponds. The 



22G GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

sluicej deemed by the majority of miners the best process, 
except, perhaps, for washing quartz gold, forms at its upper 
sections, a rapid, broken torrent of water, which, in its pas- 
sage, tumbles over the deposited dirt, and breaks and dis- 
solves the lumps. Below the dirt pile, the current, yet 
strong, but smooth, serves to convey its contents down upon 
the level sections, where the motion is more tranquil and 
even, giving the gold particles time to settle and collect. 
The riffles are so many eddies in the stream, by which the 
current of water is slightly checked, and a counter-current 
or back-water produced. The gold, also, impeded in its 
progress, by this check in the current, immediately sinks, 
and becomes securely lodged on the bottom of the sluice. 
The riffle-boards in the " tom," the "cradle," and the 
quartz '• mill," are examples of the same imitation on a 
more circumscribed plan. When falls are formed, by in- 
serting a higher riffle than the ordinary one, the " amalga- 
mators " are placed below it, so that the water, in passing 
over the fall, pitches directly on the quicksilver which re- 
tains the gold while the dissolved dirt is borne down with 
the current to the ground. The miners call water the 
great collector of gold, and they only imitate nature in 
their most ingenious and successful inventions to despoil 
her of her treasure. 



CHAPTER II. 

Miners' Courts and Laws, Customs, Self-denials, Successes, Numbers, Capi- 
tal Invested in Mining, Prospects, &c. 

Miners' Courts. When the country now occupied by 
the miners was first visited by them, it was uninhabited by 
any civilized people, and was far remote from the protecting 
arm of organized government. Adventurers flocked to it 
from every nation ; and many of them had no correct ideas 
of liberty and property, as regulated and secured by law ; 
and many more cared for neither, but were ready to violate 
the dearest private rights to promote their own advantage. 
Among this heterogeneous population were, of course, many 
American citizens. These, sensible that no security of per- 
son or of property could exist without some system of estab- 
lished government, and believing that they had the prepond- 
erance of influence, if not the numerical majority, met. in 
'• Miners' Meetings," at an early day, and adopted rules by 
which they would consent to be governed, and by which 
they would endeavor to regulate others. They established 
the courts known as " The Miners' Courts;" — very simple 
organizations in the beginning, but summary and signal in 
their proceedings. These courts were established in the 
mining villages and settlements generally ; and their juris- 
diction embraced all actions and proceedings, civil and 
criminal. To form this tribunal, on the first occasion for 
its existence in any place, a miners' meeting was called, an 



228 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

alcalde and sheriff were elected for the mining district, and 
an official oath was administered to each officer by the chair- 
man of the meeting. 

In all civil actions pending in these courts either party 
could have a jury consistmg of six men ; and in criminal 
cases the accused could demand a jury of twelve. Process 
was issued by the alcalde and executed by the sheriff. All 
proceedings in these courts were conformed to those of an 
ordinary justice's court. Appeals were entertained only by 
the spectators at the time appointed for the execution. 
Upon conviction, in criminal cases, the degree of punish- 
ment to be inflicted was submitted to the discretion of the 
alcalde ; and it might be death for any offence. Each juror 
received about six dollars, and the alcalde sixteen, for the 
trial of a cause ; and Avitnesses, as well as the sheriff, received 
a compensation for services. 

These tribunals were, in all cases, sustained by the muiers, 
and judgments rendered in them were executed promptly 
and with energy. Although a judicial system has been 
organized throughout the state since the year 1850, under 
the provisions of the constitution, yet the Miners' Court is 
not entirely abandoned, especially in criminal cases. Upon 
the perpetration of crimes, attended with circumstances of 
aggravation, in the mining regions, it still happens, occa- 
sionally, that the tardiness of constitutional trials provokes 
a return to the more summary despatch of these primitive 
organizations. 

When the miner is arraigned, and his right to inflict 
capital punishment, in any case, through the instrumental- 
ity of these courts, is denied, he thus reasons: "What 
should we have done on the mining grounds in the beginning? 
Take the least doubtful case, larceny ; admit that our prop- 



MINING CLAIMS. 229 

erty, acquired at so great a sacrifice, had been purloined ; 
we had no jails or prisons in which to confine the thief be- 
fore, or after, trial and conviction ; no constitutional court 
within one, two, or, perhaps, three hundred miles; this 
distance must have been traversed by witnesses and parties, 
through a country destitute of roads, over lofty, precipitous 
and craggy mountains, rapid, unbridged streams, parched 
plains, and through deep ravines. Should we have flagel- 
lated him and set him free ? We had no more right to 
inflict that punishment than the other; and, besides, we 
should, perhaps, have let loose a fiend who, on the first 
favorable opportunity, would have satisfied a long- indulged 
malice by the murder of the accuser, the witnesses, or jurors." 
Upon this argument the miner concludes : " Let our judges 
put themselves in our places, and then pass sentence on us." 

Since these courts were formed the country has become 
more densely settled, with a much superior population, and 
it may be supposed that, whatever force the preceding argu- 
ment may have originally had, it has none now. But if it 
was ever pertinent, it is so still. The territory occupied by 
the miners is extended with each succeeding year, and is 
now an area four hundred miles in length, by one hundred 
and fifty in breadth; but the facilities for judicial trials and 
punishments are not essentially improved in the remote parts 
of the state. 

Mining Claims. By the regulations or laws established, 
from time to time, at the " Miners' Meetings," the mining 
lands are divided into districts, which are named and record- 
ed; and the latter are subdivided into lots, called " Mining 
Claims." These claims are generally about sixty by one 
hundred feet in dimensions, and are numbered and reg- 
istered. Each district has its " Miners' Meeting," which 
20 



230 

is a local legislature, and by ^Yllicll are prescribed all regu- 
lations respecting "mining claims" within its bounds. 
These regulations vary to meet the circumstances in each 
district ; but, generally, every person becoming a resident 
therein may appropriate one unoccupied claim, and retain it 
so long as he actually works it, or, if absent, procures it to 
be registered monthly, and keeps a notice posted on the 
premises, signifying that "he has not abandoned." 

If the owner " abandons j'' either intentionally or by 
neglect, any other person not having, in the district, a claim 
which he holds by appropriation, can '■^jump^^ the aban- 
doned claim, and retain it against the prior occupant. No 
claim, whether obtained by appropriation or by purchase, 
can be held more than a month unless it shall have been 
actually worked, or shall have been registered, with the 
required notice, within that period. Genemlly, no restric- 
tion exists against purchasers ; but any number of claims 
thus acquired may be held by the same person. 

The form and requisites of conveyances, the relative rights 
and duties of the ownei-s of adjoining claims respecting the 
occupation of their property, and the manner and order of 
rotation in which the supply of water may be used for wash- 
ing or dissolving the dirt, are prescribed by the miners ; 
assessments are laid for general purposes ; and many other 
regulations are adopted which a large colony of intelligent 
persons, accustomed to just government, and fiir removed 
from its protection, would deem indispensable for the pres- 
ervation of public order and the protection of private 
rights. 

A ready acquiescence has been always yielded, by the 
better portion of the miners, to all the enactments of the 
meetings ; and, indeed, the necessity for them was originally, 



MINING CLAIMS. 231 

and is still, in many parts of the gold regions, so imperious, 
and they have become so connected Avith the titles to a large 
majority of these claims, that the Legislature of the state 
has felt the necessity of recognizing them by a public law. 
In the year 1851 that body conferred jurisdiction, in all 
cases of " mining claims," upon the justices of the peace; 
and provided that " in all actions respecting such claims the 
proceedings of the miners' meetings should be regarded by 
the court, so far as they are not inconsistent with the laws 
and constitution of the state." 

These meetings arc still held annually, and oftener if a 
necessity arise ; and their deliberations are conducted with 
gravity and talent. Their enactments are published and 
circulated, and a careful record is kept of all the pro- 
ceedings. 

The miners, as a class, are an intelligent and energetic 
people. In general, while they are exceedingly watchful 
over their own rights, and in that wild country are very 
jealous of every approach the purpose of which they do not 
fully understand, yet they are regardful of the rights of 
others, and lend a cheerful aid to procure the redress of 
every serious wrong. They are hospitable and kind. 
Among them will be found the people of almost every na- 
tion, but it is doubtless the fact that a moiety, if not the 
decided majority, are natives of the United States ; and these 
give character and direction to all the public affairs of the 
mining regions, and are the only reliable guarantees of social 
order. 

The miners are principally persons in the humbler walks 
of life, but among them are no inconsiderable number con- 
nected with the learned professions. "Whoever attends one 
of their political conventions (for they are not so fiir out 



232 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

of the world but that they attend to politics, and politicians 
attend to them), or one of their miners' meetings, will be 
convinced that neither the fools nor the drones go to the 
mines. 

Let the visitor here wend his dark way into almost any 
of the numerous mountain drifts, damp with the accumu- 
lated moisture of ages ; or clamber over heaps of rocks and 
earth, and leap wide artificial drains, to reach the point of 
operations in any one of the ten thousand dreary gorges ; 
or let him go to some river, where a wide rift, or a deep, 
broad eddy, has allured the hopeful miner ; or travel over 
miles of upturned earth to the place on the low lands where 
the solitary is toiling under an exhausting sun to separate 
the shining dust, and it is as probable that he will meet the 
grave divine, the skilful physician, the shrewd lawyer, the 
professor, the philosopher, the gentleman of leisure, or the 
student, as that he will meet the farmer, the mechanic, or 
the common laborer. Some of these adventurers have come 
to recuperate, if possible, a dissipated fortune, others to 
gratify curiosity, and a few to investigate and study ; but 
they are all inspired with the hope of acquiring more wealth 
in a shorter time than they could accumulate it in their 
ordinary avocations. 

Here they will be found, clad in straw hats, '' shack 
shirts," coarse overalls, and rubber boots, — muddy and 
wet, unshaven and unshorn. In pursuit of the great object 
of their hopes, many of them have left comfortable and 
pleasant homes, devoted friends, and the priceless enjoy- 
ments of enlightened and refined society. In the wild and 
rocky fastnesses of the mines, their days are passed in pre- 
carious toil, and their nights in loneliness and disquietude. 
Even the sacredness of the Sabbath is too often either for- 



THE miners' home. 233 

gotten or entirely disregarded ; and all are devoted wor- 
shippers at the gilded shrine of Mammon. 

The sentiment seems to prevail among the miners, that 
adventurers to California are exempted, during their sojourn, 
from the duties and obligations which should control their 
action in other countries ; and hence, except for the protec- 
tion of life and property, the code of morals is generally a 
dead letter. There are, of course, worthy exceptions to the 
application of this remark ; but whoever visits the mining 
regions, will be soon convinced of the truth of the general 
statement. 

The Miners' Home. It was about three o'clock in the 
afternoon of a pleasant day in June, 1853, that a company 
of travellers among the mountains, in the county of Nevada, 
descended into a small valley, which had been mostly dug 
over, and in which the stones and dirt lay in many a long, 
broad pile on its bottom and sides. For the distance of half 
a mile, and until the falling of stones and gravel and the 
hum of busy industry were distinctly heard, their practised 
mules jumped from rock to rock, and from bank to bank. 
In a few moments three miners Avere discovered, engaged at 
their sluice, and the company were inclined to pass by un- 
noticed ; but, on a little nearer approach, they were hailed 
by these dwellers in the mountains, who kindly invited 
them to "heave to, and rest their mules." Of course the 
travellers complied ; labor was immediately suspended, and 
under the tall pines, where the miners took their daily sies- 
tas^ many inquiries were made respecting " the States," and 
the events which had occurred since the anxious interroga- 
tors came to California. Bolognas and sea biscuit were 
served to the company, and these proved a very acceptable 
civility, after the fatigues of a long morning mule ride. 
20^ 



234 

Two of these miners were farmers, and the other a physician, 
and they had beeif three years in the country. The visitors 
were treated to die best fare which the place afforded. It 
was spread on the lid of an ancient chest, and the seats at 
table were blocks of timber set on end. This mountain 
home was a floorless shanty, having but a single room, with 
a canvas spread loosely over the top to break the burning 
rays of an almost vertical sun. On one side was a pile of 
stones, which were laid to serve as a fire-place, and an aper- 
ture was left in the canvas above for the escape of smoke. 
On the opposite side of this room four low stakes were 
driven firmly into the ground, and connected by rails nailed 
upon them, so as to form a square frame, and over the whole 
a canvas was stretched, to complete the miner's bed. Three 
coverless pillow^s and an equal number of blue blankets 
composed the complement of bed furniture. Cool water 
from a neighboring spring was served to the guests, in a 
rusty tin cup ; and at that hour of the day, and among the 
burning sands, the draught was a truly acceptable offering. 
In one corner of the cabin were several worn volumes, trea- 
tises on geology, mineralogy, mining and materia medica. 
Along the banks of a rivulet, which flowed through the 
valley, lay a small strip of fertile land, which might have 
contributed, by cultivation, to the comfort of these miners ; 
but they regarded their time too valuable to be devoted to 
the mere gratification of the palate. While they were 
spending it in growing lettuce, corn, cabbage, turnips, etc., 
they might find their "pile" in a single lump from the 
mine. The nearest neighbors to these men were located at 
the distance of five miles, and their only intercourse with 
the world was derived through the occasional visits of 
travellers. 



OUTLAWS. 235 

Such is the business of mining, and such are the miner's 
circumstances on the mining grounds. Their occupation is, 
undoubtedly, one of the most fatiguing, uninviting, and 
hazardous, of all the pursuits in which mankind engage to 
accumulate wealth. To show the home comforts of the 
miners, the foregoing example is selected from the best 
provided and most prosperous class ; and the self-denials of 
the less fortunate may therefore be the more readily appre- 
ciated. They occasionally have opportunity to take several 
kinds of wild game, and to obtain fish ; but their time is 
esteemed too precious to be occupied in hunting or fishing. 

Outlaws. The murderers in the mountains are vaga- 
bond Mexicans, w^ho are outlawed at home, and dare not be 
seen on the coast ; they are too indolent to labor, and nat- 
urally too covetous of gold to permit another to possess it if 
they have none, and the miners are their frequent victims. 
When the " poor Indian" is engaged in robbery and mur- 
der, it is generally in connection with these Mexican rascals ; 
and, usually, the latter secure the spoils, while the former 
swing by the neck. 

Restrictions on Chinamen. In what has been noted 
respecting those who actually labor in the mines, are 
included the foreigners, even the swarthy Chinamen. With 
respect to the latter, however, the Legislature has made a 
distinction, the justice or propriety of which is not read- 
ily perceived. Three years ago it assumed jurisdiction of 
the mining lands within the state, and imposed an onerous 
tax on all the Chinese who should work in the mines. The 
assessment was at first about twenty dollars a month ; but 
it has been reduced to three dollars, and is not now objec- 
tionable except in the principle upon which it rests. It is 
asserted that, as a class, they are hirelings, sent from China 



236 

by wealthy men to work on low wages ; that the gold which 
they obtain is carried out of the country, and that the pub- 
lic derive very little advantage, comparatively, from their 
sojourn. It is, however, equally true, that very few miners 
of any class settle in the state, and all the gold acquired by 
those who do not is taken or sent out of it. Many Ameri- 
cans, Mexicans, and Europeans, dig gold here under con- 
tracts with other parties at home, who furnish capital, and 
those miners receive a return for their labor very little better 
than the wages of ordinary laborers. The justice of the 
discrimination is not therefore clearly perceptible, even if 
the right of the state to impose restrictions, by any means, 
upon mining in territory acquired by the United States, is 
conceded. The Chinese rank with the most skilful and 
successful foreigners in the mines. According to an esti- 
mate, which is made from the census of the state, taken in 
the year 1852 and filed in the office of the Secretary of 
State, the number of persons, in the fall of that year, who 
were engaged in mining within its limits, was about 140,000; 
but from their representations, it appears that this force had 
diminished within the past year, although the population 
of the state and the annual product of the mines had in- 
creased. This apparently inconsistent result is attributed 
to the amplification of the facilities for mining, by the more 
general distribution of water over the mining region, the 
multiplication of quartz mills, and the greater experience 
of the miners. 

Uncertainty of Mining. From what has been said 
in the preceding pages, the inference is quite direct, that 
success in mining for gold in California is subject to many 
contingencies ; and, therefore, that mining, as a business, 
should be classed with the very hazardous pursuits. At an 



UNCEHTAINTY OF MINING. 237 

earlier day in its history, if the prospecter " obtained color," 
and especially if the prospect improved in the descent, it 
was deemed certain that an expenditure could safely be 
made to work the mine ; but the sad experience of thousands 
has since proved that in every instance the result of fur- 
ther operations is at least doubtful. A good prospect 
does not insure a good mine. Gold may be there found to 
a very large amount ; but it may also happen that after the 
miner, relying on the evidence given by his prospect, has 
toiled for months, and expended a large sum of money in 
making the necessary preparations to work his mine, he is 
doomed at last to irremediable disappointment, and perhaps 
is made penniless. 

There are no rules of science which can here be invaria- 
bly consulted, with the confidence that they will not mislead 
the inquirer, or which can be always applied with the cer- 
tainty that their results will confirm her teachings. All 
tlie signs generally received as indications of the presence 
of gold, may appear in a locality, but, when tested by exper- 
iment, may, and very often do, only verify the uncertainty 
of human hopes. In other places none of these signs may 
be present where a large amount of gold may be subse- 
quently found. One of the heaviest nuggets ever obtained 
in California was casually dug up, about a foot below the 
surface of the ground, in a locality which presented none 
of the evidences of the presence of gold. In another place, 
destitute of those indicia, $5000 were obtained in three 
days by a person who was digging for another object. In 
an open cultivated field of farming land, the occupier un- 
expectedly struck a "placer," from which four baskets of 
the earth yielded, respectively, $500, $400, $380, and 
$360. But in each of these cases, the mine was at the 



238 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MINERS. 

point given exhausted. Gold-hunting is, therefore, much 
like game-hunting, — an employment, the results of which 
are mere chances. 

In further corroboration of these views, it can be stated 
that at Grass Valley and Nevada, — the country around which 
has thus far been regarded the most fruitful in gold, and 
where quartz mining, especially, has been prosecuted more 
extensively than in any other section of California, — several 
quartz mills are now useless ; the mines having failed, for a 
long time, to yield a paying supply of gold. One of these 
mills at Nevada was erected at an expense of ten thousand 
dollars ; and each of several others there cost from three to 
five thousand dollars. All these quartz mines opened rich- 
ly, and, for many months, were very productive ; but, at 
length, the supply decreased, until the product did not pay 
the expense of mining. It is possible that these leads 
may be followed until they will again pay a profit, but the 
necessary cost of the experiment cannot be foreseen. Other 
quartz mines at Grass Valley and Nevada still continue to 
yield abundantly, and several mills are in motion at each 
place. 

The same may be said of other parts of the gold region. 
Scarcely a district can be mentioned, where mines have been 
opened to any considerable extent, in which miners have not 
been ruined by the erection of expensive mills, canals, flumes, 
or other fixtures for mining, in leads and places which prom- 
ised well at first, but which, too soon, disappointed their ex- 
pectations. 

Notwithstanding the acknowledged uncertainty in respect 
to the richness of leads or placers, and to their continuance 
to yield gold, the amount of capital invested in mining 
operations is very large. According to the report of the 



UNCERTAINTY OF MINING. 239 

officers appointed to take the census in the state, and to 
which reference has been made, the amount of capital em- 
-ployed, in the year 1852, was, 

In quartz mining, . . . $5,871,405 

In placer and river mining, . . 4,174,419 

In canals, flumes, and sluices, . 3,851,623 



$13,897,447 
Number of quartz mills, . . . 108 

The principal placer-mining counties are, Nevada, Placer, 
Sierra, Yuba, and Eldorado; and the chief quartz-mining 
counties are, Mariposa, Nevada, and Butte. 

But, with all the discouragements which attend mining, 
a very large amount of native gold is yearly obtained from 
California ; and the question may be asked, Why do not all 
the miners become rich ? What disposition do they make 
of the treasure? These inquiries are readily answered. 
If those who go to the mines, and are successful, would save 
all the gold they obtain, above reasonable expenses, they 
might, in the course of one or two years of labor, possess a 
comfortable estate. But they do not retain it. They pay 
enormous prices for provisions, clothing, and other necessa- 
ries. Being far from the large markets, they make their 
purchases of the small merchants who establish themselves 
in the neighborhood of the miners for the sole purpose of 
speculation. These speculators sell their goods at two or 
three hundred per centum of profits, and receive payment 
in " dust," at one or two dollars the ounce below its real 
value ; and the same result attends the miner's sale of his 
gold to the bankers. These are, perhaps, disadvantages 
which the miner cannot avoid. 

The great " rocks," however, on which they split, are 



240 GOLD MINES, MINING AND MlNKllS. 

those always in sight, but which arc, nevertheless, strewn 
with the wrecks of many a golden fortune. As a general 
remark, successful gold-diggers are not satisfied to be doing 
well; their good luck stimulates their desire to do still 
better, and after obtaining a handsome amount of gold, they 
are prone to embark in some more expensive mining enter- 
prise, and, perhaps, to unite their interests with other persons. 
As the result, they almost invariably lose all their former 
accumulations, and are often left with a large debt to be 
paid by their subsequent labor. They do not learn wisdom 
by their own experience, nor hy that of otlicrs. 

Daily observation, also, justifies the remark, that too 
many of these hard-working men arc l)cguiled, by tlieir 
loneliness perhaps, to visit, two or three times a month, tlie 
little shanty village, whicli is sure to spring up in every 
mining district, and there to drink, ganil)lc, and often to 
descend to more disreputable vices. If this truth did not 
stand out prominently in the " mining region," it Avould not 
be introduced here ; but it is well known that the Avhole 
accumulations of many an unsuspecting miner have been 
carried away from the dram-drinking, gambling dens, in 
those villages, hy cut- throats, who lie in wait there to 
despoil him of his gold. The expression of regret has often 
fallen but too late, over the recital of errors into which the 
miner was precipitated by the convivial glass, and which 
deprived him of the golden fruits of montlis, and even of 
years of toil, in the dark mines, among the lonely moun- 
tains of California. 

It is frequently said that the successful miner may avoid 
these indiscretions, if he will, and save his money; and, 
therefore, that his failure to return to his home, possessed 
of an ample fortune, is chargeable only upon himself. While 



AMOUNT OF (J OLD HIIIPPED. 241 

this allegation is admitted to be true, the concession does 
not change the answers to the proposed (questions. If the 
miner has thus wasted his gold, he has lost it, notwithstand- 
ing all his toils ; but the amount makes up its proportion 
of the $200,000,000, which, according to a calculation 
made upon reliable statistics, have been dug from t])os(5 
mines, by 140,000 miners who arc now on the mining 
grounds, and 00,000 others who have returned to th(;ir 
homes, or have died on the field of their hopes. 

The amount of gold shipped fi'om the port oi' San Fran- 
cisco, in the year 1858, as '' manifested " at the Custom 
House, was .$02,300,889, of which .$r>0,(;7rj,780 were con- 
signed to the city of New York. This shipment is an in- 
crease, above that of the year 1852, of 1)14,555,814. 
When the fact is considered, that a large amount of the 
yearly produce of the mines is never entered at the Custom 
House, but is carried away by the owners themselves, these 
statistics present clear evidence of the immensity of the 
golden resources of California, and of the rapid jirogress 
which has been made in their development. 
21 



PART FOURTH. 

JOURNAL OE THE VOYAGE, ETC 



CHAPTER I. 

Voyage from New York to San Juan-del-Norte, the Ship, Incidents, Views, 
etc. etc. 

April 20th, 1853, at two o'clock, p. m., I embarked at 
the port of New York, in the steamer Prometheus, Capt. 
Churchill commander, for "the land of gold." 

At three o'clock, the ship left her dock at pier No. 2, 
North river, bound to San Juan-del-Norte in Nicaragua, 
with 470 passengers ; and sailed down the magnificent bay 
like "a thing of hfe," attended, doubtless, by the prayers 
and kind wishes of many hearts, whose fathers, and moth- 
ers, sisters, brothers, or other friends, she is bearing away, 
perhaps forever, from home, kindred, and country. 

The day was cloudy, and the darkened sky seemed to 
have a depressing influence on the feelings of the multitude 
who were assembled to witness the departure. No shouts 
went up ; no loud, long, spirit-stirring cheers, which, * on 
such occasions, seem to imply the petition that the Almighty 
Being, 

" Who vides upon the stormy sky. 
And manages the seas," 



DEPARTURE. 248 

would restrain the winds and waves, and bear the bark and 
her burthen safe into her haven of hope. 

The disregard bj all parties of this very popular custom, 
when a vessel leaves port bound on a long voyage, disturbed 
my mind, at the moment, with unpleasant apprehensions. 
I had often witnessed such scenes, and had heard the " wel- 
kin ring" with the huzzas of the crowd, and the hearty 
responses of the voyagers ; but now, when I was about to 
commit my life, under God, to the fitful bosom of the 
treacherous ocean, the accustomed invocation was unuttered ; 
and, as we passed down the bay, and the city receded from 
my view, I could not repress the thought, the fear, that we 
may be bound on the unwritten voyage, to 

*' That undiscovered country, from whose bourn 
No traveller returns." 

The novelty of the passing scenes on board soon occupied 
my mind, and the gloomy impressions passed away. I 
turned to take a view of the ship and of the multitude who 
are to be my companions in perils and hopes for many 
future days. Among them, I know but one ; a bold, hardy 
fellow, generous and confiding ; having formerly made the 
voyage to California, he is just the man for me. My room- 
mates are two gentlemen, father and son, from the glorious 
little state of Rhode Island, — the land of my forefathers, 
and of rye and Indian bread, and cider-brandy ! They are 
full of life, fun and frolic, social and intelligent ; and I an- 
ticipate, in their society, a pleasant relief from the tedium of 
our long, monotonous voyage. 

The first two or three hours after we "got under way" 
were industriously occupied in arranging our luggage, and 
putting our room in proper order for comfort ; and when, 



244 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

just at night-fall, we went on deck, all points of the coast had 
faded from the view. No objects were visible but the good 
steamer Prometheus, the arching, clouded skj, the shoreless 
ocean, and the evening sun, sinking in golden splendor into 
her ever-restless bosom. Yielding to the power of the 
enchantment, as evening closed around the contemplative 
scene, we retired to our " ocean- rocked couch," and bid 
good-night to native land. 

April 23d. The sky is clear, the wind " in our bows," 
the sea considerably rough. The vessel rocks very uncom- 
fortably, very. 

I did not begin to write up my journal until the third 
day of the voyage. It requires no Yankee to guess the rea- 
son. Soon after the steamer started, many of the passen- 
gers began to exhibit decided evidence of an uneasiness 
peculiar to a large majority of freshmen on shipboard ; and 
before bed-time some were prostrate on the decks, and oth- 
ers hastily casting up accounts — very different, in their 
nature and effect, from those of dollars and cents. Contrary 
to my anticipations, I remained unaffected by the motion 
of the vessel, and, about ten o'clock at night, retired to my 
state-room with the confident belief that I was one of the 
favored few who would be permitted to laugh at the fickle 
sea, and "throw physic to the dogs." But, "Alas! poor 
Yorrick ! " How delusive is hope ! The morning came, 
bright and beautiful ; but my head had lost its balance ; the 
stomach of your humble servant was in a state of complete 
rebellion. Sea-sickness ! It never has been adequately 
described ; it never can be ! The poet Moore, in Lalla 
Rookh, alluding to paradise, thus sweetly sings, — 

" Take all. the pleasures of all the spheres, 
And multiply each through endless years, 
One minute of heaven is worth them all." 



SEA-SICKNESS. 245 

Parodied thus, these lines may be well applied to our sub- 
ject: 

*' Take all the ills of all the spheres, 
And multiply each through endless years, 
One minute of this exceeds them all." 

Sea-sickness is a paradox. The unhappy subject is 
neither one thing nor the other; neither sick nor well; 
craving food, but loathing every dainty which the hand of 
kindness can offer. Unhappy victim ! thy condition is that 
of unsatisfied and unsatisfiable " betweenity." Whoever 
shall fully succeed in describing that undefinable "evil of 
the sea," in all its features, by the power of rhetoric, will 
deserve a pension for life ; and whoever shall delineate 
it faithfully on the canvas, will earn a name to live in the 
annals of the sea, as long as that fabric shall be spread 
on its bosom. But I am becoming eloquent, and beg 
pardon, for eloquence is here quite out of place. The 
truth is, I am just restored to consciousness, after two days 
of sea-sickness ; and the impressions of that brief time rise 
before my imagination, as the ghost of Banquo rose before 
Macbeth ! But I am yet quite unprepared to practise his 
cool philosophy on the occasion, and say, 

•« Can such things be. 
And overcome us like a summer's cloud, 
Without our special wonder ? ' ' 

Those never-to-be-forgotten days did not pass over me 
" like a summer's cloud." I can rather exclaim to their 
spectre, still flitting before my mental vision, — 

"Avaunt ! and quit my sight ! Let the 
Earth hide thee ! 
Thy bones are marrowless, thy blood is cold; 
Thou hast no speculation in those eyes 
Which thou dost glare with ! " 

21* 



246 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

All I know of the incidents of those two days is derived 
from othei-s. I learn that the steamer had made 173 miles 
on the 21st, at meridian, the time from which the ship's 
reckoning is calculated ; and that on the 22d she made 208 
miles, and on the 23d but 185 ; the wind being continually 
''strong ahead." At noon, therefore, on the 23d, we were 
566 miles from the American emporium. About this time 
the wind subsided, the surface of the waste of waters be- 
came smooth, that ever-to-be-hated rock of the vessel 
ceased, and I was enabled to leave my berth, make my toilet, 
and go on deck. 

Now, for the first time, I thought of my valued friend, 
Dr. B., and his kind advice respecting my health. Ah, 
doctor ! your counsel was good ; a thousand thanks for it. 
Could you see me now, seated in an easy-chair on the hurri- 
cane deck, a hundred miles from the nearest land ; the 
broad, blue sea as calm and placid as " the smile of God; " 
the staunch Prometheus, under canvas and steam, making 
her steady way onward, further and further to the sunny 
south ; expressions of joy beaming from every countenance ; 
the softened air, so balmy and grateful to the debilitated 
and sickly body — I repeat, could you see this scene, you 
would exclaim with me, " Wlio thus surrounded, that retains 
but the 'breath of life,' could fail of material improvement 
in health? " Had you the gift of divination, Dr. B., you 
could not have more fully foretold, than you did, the effect 
of the sea- voyage on my divers ailments. May you be 
equally prophetic in the future ! 

Soon after I was able to be about, I took a survey of our 
ship, and made myself acquainted with its several depart- 
ments and order. We have three classes of passengers, 
each having its separate privileges and restrictions, except 
that the first class has aecess to all parts of the vessel, and. 



STEERAGE PASSENGERS. 247 

of course, to all the ship's company. The classes are dis- 
tinct in all the arrangements of the ship, which contributes 
essentially to the general quiet and comfort. The third 
class are the steerage passengers. These are generally the 
majority, and are confined to the steerage and forecastle. 
I am compelled to record the fact that their accommodations 
are not comfortable. Many are poor, and some, I regret to 
say, are not inclined to be cleanly. For these reasons, the 
owners of all vessels, engaged in the carriage of passengers, 
should provide against that dangerous negligence — dan- 
gerous, because it often begets disease which may, and 
frequently does, extend to the other classes. 

The steerage of any ship is a terrible place, as now con- 
structed, ventilated, and provided. Here the largest portion 
of every ship's load sleep ; here they lie when sick — men, 
women, and children, huddled promiscuously together. It 
is situated in the very bottom of the vessel ; a damp, dark, 
poorly-ventilated hole. Here, often, from three to five 
hundred human beings are congregated for a voyage, often 
of twenty days ; and when they stack themselves up to 
sleep for the night, it is almost impossible to go into the 
place. It cannot be denied that the love of money is the 
root of this evil. If, for any cause, the steerage of these 
steamers cannot be better provided and arranged, the dic- 
tates of common humanity suggest that there should be a 
less number of occupants. Only a limited number should 
be admitted. 

I have seen the steerage of the Illinois, and of the Georgia 
— both of which, I am assured, are inferior to that of the 
Prometheus. I presume the commanders of these vessels 
do everything in their power to mitigate the evils to which 
I have alluded. I know this is true of Capt. Churchill, 



248 



than whom I have never met a more kind, considerate, and 
sympathizing man ; he is, undoubtedly, one of the best men 
for his position. But the fault is not in the officers. They 
have nothing to do with the sale of tickets of admission for 
the voyage. They receive all who present tickets, and give 
them the places indicated. 

There is now, in the steerage of the Prometheus, a very 
sick passenger. His first attack was sea-sickness ; but, being 
weakly, it has reduced him so low that some other disease is 
induced, and great fears are entertained that he will die. 
He should never have been admitted as a steerage passen- 
ger ; none but the most hardy can endure the exposure and 
privations to which all are subject who take passage in that 
apartment. 

With respect to the first and second classes, their accom- 
modations are as comfortable as they can be on ship-board. 

The state rooms and cabins are cleanly and well provided ; 
and the arrangements and supply of the table are quite equal 
to those of any of our best hotels. The passenger who should 
complain of Capt. Churchill's table, would betray unmis- 
takable evidence that he was ambitious to be esteemed, what 
he is not, a ''travelled man." The lady passengers are 
well attended by waiting-maids, who cheerfully give every 
attention and assistance necessary to render a sea- voyage 
comfortable and pleasant. 

April 24th. It is the Sabbath. The sun in the firma- 
ment, the natural creation, like the Son of God in the 
spiritual, has risen bright and beautiful upon the darkness 
that so lately rested upon the world. In harmony with this 
sentiment, Capt. Churchill gave notice that, at ten o'clock 
this day, he would present a Bible and tract to every passen- 
ger who would receive them. A large number were distrib- 



BIBLES AND TRACTS. 249 

utedj nearly if not every passenger accepting the offer, and 
many, apparently, with much pleasure. The influence of 
this benevolence, whoever may have been its author, must 
be good ; for both the Bibles and tracts were generally read 
during the remainder of the day ; and this occupation of 
the sacred hours rendered the ship as quiet and orderly as 
a church. 

The Bible and Tract Societies are making mighty move- 
ments to diffuse the word of truth and religious knowledge 
through the four corners of the earth. Consider the beauty 
and potency of this one act to that important end. Once 
in every fifteen days, two steamers leave the port of New 
York for California, carrying out from four to nine hundred 
passengers, most of whom will probably continue there. 
If to each be given a Bible and tract, their influence goes as 
fur into the outermost borders of civilization as the adven- 
turous settler, and remains there, to do its perfect work, 
where no voice of the living herald breaks the deep silence 
of the forest. 

The sea, to-day, has been calm ; the wind, as usual, "dead 
ahead," but not strong. During the last twenty-four hours 
the ship. has made 218 miles, putting us 784 miles from our 
port of departure. After tea, I loitered ' ' in musing, mel- 
ancholy mood " upon the quarter-deck. Others were seated 
indifferently about, either alone, like myself, or in circles 
of half a dozen ; and no inclination was manifested to dis- 
turb this quiet Sabbath scene. 

About eight o'clock in the evening the scene suddenly 
changed. The heavens, just now so clear, are, in a surpris- 
ingly short time, overcast with scudding clouds. The wind 
breezes up smartly from the east, the waves begin to rise 
higher and higher, and beat with a force and violence to 



250 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

me hitherto iinkno-^n. The Siuls are all spread, the steam 
is up : and the strong ship, taking advantage of these aids, 
flies, like a sea-bird, over the rough surtace of the troubled 
watei*s. She careens deeply, and seems to say, 
'' Blow, bi'eezes, blow ! " 

Now her bow looks upward, inquiringly, into the threaten- 
ing darkness, and anon peers fearfully down into the ftithom- 
less depths below. Every officer and sailor is at his post. 
His glance is rapid, his step frequent and hurried ; but he 
betrays no fear. Xot so, however, with me. I must con- 
fess that all my previously acquired feeling of security 
Tanished in a moment. I vividly realized my true situation ; 
many hundi-ed miles from the nearest land, no other sail in 
sight, surrounded with almost total dai'kness, confined to a 
structure, though strong and sound, yet only the Avorkman- 
ship of man ; in a storm of wind and mn, with the waves 
of the limitless waters beating fearfully and heavily against 
her massive timbei-s. These reflections were impressing my 
mind deeply with the truth of the frailty and littleness of 
the mightiest human agency, when the captain, who had 
kept his room except at meal times during the day, appeared 
on deck, gazed up into the darkened heavens, and tiu-ning 
himself to the assembled passengei'S, very coolly said, ** A 
clever blow, but it 's about over." I then took a long breath, 
and retired to my bed, thinking of those sweet lines : 
" Home, home, there "s no place like home ! " 

April i^oth. I left my room this morning earlier than 
usual, the excitement of the preceding evening not having 
entu'ely subsided. Weather clear and pleasant. Break- 
fasted with an improved appetite, and went to learn '• the 
ship's reckoning.'' "\Vc are now, eight o'clock, a. m., yet 



261 

north of Cuba, but will stand off it before dark, and distant, 
east, about sixty miles. Wc shall not, therefore, be favored 
with a view of Iler Most Catholic Majesty's jewel, 

*' The bright little isle of the ocean." 

As time begins to lag heavily, I will amuse myself by 
taking a peep into the ladies' saloon, my sea-sickness having 
so far subsided as to enable me to go below without inconve- 
nience. Wc have fifty-two lady passengers, with seven small 
children. Two of the ladies and one small child are very 
ill from the effect of sea-sickness. They recover but slowly, 
and fears arc entertained for their safety on the Isthmus. 
Two of the ladies are residents in California, and are return- 
ing from a visit to their friends at the east ; one of these 
has the care of two small children of her sister, now in the 
new state. They and two others are without any male 
escort. They say they can travel as safely to California as 
to Boston or New York ; and they apprehend no difficulty. 
One of them is the mother of the largest and finest male 
child I ever saw of its age, eighteen months. She says it 
was raised in ''the gold diggins," and that all the children 
raised there are just like hers ; she " wouldn't go back to 
York state, to live, anyhow ! " The remainder of the 
ladies are adventurers, full of hope and animation. One 
of them, more especially, cannot fail of success in the 
Pacific state. She is about forty, strong, healthy, unmar- 
ried, drinks champagne at her dinner with the gusto and 
smack of a connoisseur, plays a crack game of cards, dances 
gracefully, talks politics and pistols with the gentlemen, and 
smokes ! Now there 's a woman for you ! Think of a state 
populated with the descendants of such mothers ! We 
anticipate much enjoyment in seeing this lady cross the 



252- JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

Isthmus. Woe be to the mongrel Spaniard who shall dare 
to lay his black hand on her ! 

Some of the ladies are reclining listlessly on sofas, dis- 
turbed by the ship's motion ; others are chatting ; but many 
more are occupied in reading the trashy literature of the 
day, of which there is a large supply on the steamer. The 
wonder is that they can find pleasure in such employment. 
The vessel contains no library. 

At noon, to-day, the steamer had made, in the preceding 
twenty-four hours, two hundred and eighteen miles. We 
are, therefore, one thousand and two miles from New York. 
Our general course, up to yesterday, had been nearly di- 
rectly south ; but it is now south, half west, and will con- 
tinue so until we pass Cuba. "We were, for two days, in 
the gulf-stream. This, I find, is distinguished from the 
ocean generally, by the peculiar grass that is always found 
floating in it in large quantities. This substance is called 
grass, but it resembles large leaves. They are in a fan-like 
form, of net-work, of various sizes, from a few inches to a 
foot broad. They are of an orange color, and float, some- 
times singly, at other times in a compact body, when they 
resemble an immense carpet swimming on the surface of the 
sea. It is said that the water of this stream is warmer than 
the main ocean, is relatively higher, and has a more rapid 
current. 

We have seen but four vessels since we left port. The 
finny natives of the great deep, also, have been remarkably 
coy ; only one, a huge porpoise, having condescended to 
give us a view of his fishship. The sailors tell me that all 
fish avoid the gulf-stream, from a dislike to the temperature 
of the water ; but it is evident they must enter it in passing 



NEARING THE EQUATOR. 263 

to and from the vicinity of the shore — yet it may not be 
so congenial to their natures as the cooler regions. 

To-day we begin to have decided evidences that we are 
nearing the equator. At meridian, the shadows we cast 
were very short. The sun has blistered both my hands and 
my neck. The passengers admitted upon the quarter-deck 
begin to huddle together under the awnings, and those not 
admitted to this privilege are seeking protection from the 
burning heat in the covered passage-ways on the lower deck. 
The saloons and state-rooms are vacant, unless the occupant 
is too feeble to leave. Ice, ice begins to have peculiar 
charms, and many devices are adopted to procure the lux- 
ury. If we complain, the honest tar exclaims, '' Och, och ! 
if ye thinks this hot weather, what '11 ye say when we gets 
to Juan 7 't "ill bui-n your face to a blister, and crumple yer 
hat ! " 0, for one, but one of the myriads of cool, cool 
breezes that are wandering uselessly about in my vigorous, 
beloved, native North ! 

'T is evening. The sun is sinking fi-om the western sky. 
Scarcely a zephyr ruffles the smooth surface of the broad, blue 
ocean. In the distance, a sail appears. All eyes are turned 
to greet her welcome coming. What is she? A brig ! — a 
brig ! How beautifully she rides upon her native element ! 
Her sails are all set, and her ensign is floating proudly 
from her mast-head. Whence is she ? and whither is she 
bound 7 Bears she not in her ample bosom some message 
of love, some memento of affection between hearts far sun- 
dered, and 

"Which else, 
Like kindred drops, had mingletl into one ' ' ? 

As I muse, the beautiful spectacle is lost in the distance, 

22 



254 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

enveloped in the burnished cloud that hangs so heavily down 
from the evening sky ; the sun has disappeared, and night 
is folding her mantle of stars over the gorgeous glories of 
the sun'ounding scene. 

April 26th. The last night was one of uncommon beauty. 
The moon and stars were very bright, the wind was still, 
and the surface of the water shone like a limitless silver 
mirror. I remained on deck until after midnight. Arose 
this morning at six o'clock. Weather fair ; a sail in sight, 
but at a great distance from us. Land, also, the first we 
have seen since we left port. It is the eastern side of the 
island called Great Inagua, and down the coast of which, 
at the distance of about twenty-five miles, we are now sail- 
ing, south about one point west. Here, then, we are ; not 
as far south as the captain assured us, yesterday morning, 
we should be before the sun-set. The land in sight has the 
appearance of a continuous snow-bank piled against the sky, 
and glistening in the morning sun. This peculiarity is 
caused by the reflection of the rays of light ; a nearer ap- 
proach dispels the illusion, and shows us the dark summits 
of the island shore. 

I have just been presented by Capt, Churchill with the 
general track of the steamer from New York to San Juan- 
del-Norte. It is due south to the island of Mariguana, one 
of the Bahama group ; thence south-westerly through Ma- 
riguana Passage ; thence south-easterly between Inagua and 
Caicos islands; thence south-westerly through windward 
passage, leaving Jamaica to the west, and continuing down 
to 10° 57' north latitude ; thence west to San Juan. The 
Aspinwall steamers make nearly the same track down to 
about 10° north latitude ; thence they go southerly to that 
port, which is situated seven or eight miles from the old 



ORDER AND SYSTEM. 255 

city of Chagres. The distance from New York to San 
Juan-del-Norte is, in general terms, stated to be two thou- 
sand miles, and to Aspinwall to be eighteen hundred miles ; 
but as the former port is about six hundred miles nearer to 
San Francisco than the latter, the friends of the Nicaragua 
route insist that it is the shorter and cheaper. But it must 
be remembered that the distance across the country to the 
Pacific is considerably greater by San Juan than by Aspin- 
wall, — the former being stated at two hundred and seven 
miles, and the latter at fifty-six. The navigation of the 
Nicaragua river and lake, however, leaves but twelve miles 
of travel by land ; whereas the twenty-five miles by rail 
from Aspinwall leave fourteen miles of communication by 
water on the Chagres river, and about seventeen miles on 
the old Spanish road to Panama. 

The voyager will admire the order and system which pre- 
vail among the officers and crew of the steamer. The gov- 
ernment has its judicial, administrative and financial depart- 
ments, each distinct, but all subject to the captain, who is 
absolute sovereign. The ship is really a miniature mon- 
archy. The common sailors are under the immediate direc- 
tion of the first and second mates. The latter are a kind 
of lieutenant-governors, and take the captain's command in 
their order if he be absent or incapacitated. The captain 
holds them responsible for any disorder among the sailors, 
and gives no personal attention to the latter. The engineers 
have the control of the engine, the speed of the vessel, and 
of all the firemen. The captain looks only to the engineers. 
The purser is the treasurer, receives and disburses all the 
moneys, provides the supplies, and keeps the accounts and 
"reckoning" of the ship. The steward is head of the 
larder, and chief lord of the kitchen and dining-saloon. 



256 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

All the cooks and table-waiters are his subjects. The pas- 
sengers regard this official with peculiar interest ; and he 
and his troupe regard the passengers precisely according to 
the length of their purse-strings, and the kind of knot into 
which they are twisted. They all have a strong dislike to the 
hard knot, but smile complaisantly at the bow knot, which is 
easily untied. When difficulty arises here, the steward is 
amenable to the captain. The watch is a very important 
and responsible department, and is under the direction of 
the mates, — the deck officers. The twenty -four hours ar^ 
divided into a certain number of " watches." The division 
is not the same on all vessels, nor is it always alike on the 
same vessel, being regulated by the circumstances. There 
is the " fire watch," and the "deck watch." The sailors 
compose the latter, the firemen the former. On sail vessels 
no "fire watch " is needed. The mates answer for all de- 
linquencies in the important duties of " the watch." Four 
are always on duty, at the same time, on the Prometheus. 
In sailor phi-ase, "they are four on and four ofi*." The 
table-waiters and chamber-maids keep the state-rooms and 
saloons in order, and perform the duties of house-servants 
generally for the passengers. 

At "reckoning-time," to-day, the ship had made two 
hundred and twenty-seven miles in the preceding twenty - 
four hours, carrying us, therefore, one thousand two hun- 
dred and twenty-nine miles from the Empire City, and I 
close my journal for this day at eight o'clock, p. M., off the 
isle of Cuba, where, it was prophesied, the steamer would 
have been yesterday, at this hour. But the "jewel" is not 
in sight, and it is clear we are a long distance away from it, 
as we are beyond "soundings." I am told that " sound- 
ings,"- on the eastern coast of Cuba, extend many miles 



ST. DOMINGO. 257 

into the ocean. '' Soundings" is the term used by sailors 
to signify a depth of water in which it is not certain the 
vessel may sail with perfect safety. This point is generally 
indicated by the color of the water. If that be green, it is 
said the vessel is in "soundings," — that is, on water so 
shallow that the bottom may be found with an ordinary 
sounding-line ; and although at the particular locality she 
may safely float, yet, owing to the great inequality of the 
bottom of the ocean, it is not known how far she may safely 
go, and therefore the soundings, or trial of depth, must be 
constant. On the contrary, if the vessel be on blue water, 
she is said to be out of ''soundings," — that is, on water 
so deep that no danger can possibly exist, and therefore no 
"soundings" are necessary. With the sailor, the color 
generally determines that point. 

The term "soundings" is used figuratively. When the 
lead is cast, the act is an inquiry, How deep is the water 1 
When the lead strikes bottom, a sound — really, or figura- 
tively, by the effect made on the sense of feeling — is given, 
and the answer is indicated in feet and inches on the line. 

April 27th. Left my berth at six. Weather fine, sea 
calm, sky bright and clear. We are passing along the coast 
of St. Domingo, distant about half a mile. The point 
nearest is Cape Dona Maria. Many sail-boats are in sight, 
and come so near that we can exchange salutations with the 
woolly heads in yellow shirts, who are superintending their 
"fishing tackle," located in these waters. I distinctly see 
the inhabitants moving on the shore, and small animals re- 
sembling dogs. The land appears to be covered with under- 
brush, scattered among which are many towering trees. I 
discover a tall plant, with long, corn-like, arching leaves, 
and the sailors tell me these are pine-apple stalks. Here 



258 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

is the mouth of a river, whose ^vinding course is visible 
between the mountains, far into the interior. I can trace 
it by the ever-changing cloud that rests above its waters, 
and, in the beams of the morning sun, appears like a silver 
canopy of dissolving views. No dwellings are in sight, 

** But I know by the smoke tliat so gracefully curl3 
Above the green " trees " that a cottage is near." 

This coast is mountainous. Two, and in many places 
three ranges appear. Those on the shore are the lowest. 
The ranges are at a considerable distance apart, and luxuri- 
ant flat lands lie between them. The highest peak in view 
is, according to Captain Churchill, more than five thousand 
feet above the level of the sea. It is certainly very lofty ; 
for its summit is much obscured by the clouds through 
which the sun is shining brightly. I could not learn its 
name, if, indeed, it has one. The shore along the whole 
southern promontory of St. Domingo is very bold, the blue 
water coming quite up to the rocky barrier which the Cre- 
ator has reared for its protection, and which in silent and 
solid grandeur very imperatively says to the ever-restless 
invader at its base, '-Hitherto shalt thou come, but no 
farther, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed.-' The 
green foliage here has a peculiar brightness. 

It may be that a week's confinement upon the ocean has 
rendered my feelings more susceptible to the beauty of land 
scenery than they would otherwise have been ; but sure it 
is, the green leaves never before appeared in so bright and 
rich a hue. As a general characteristic, the foliage here is 
of a liojhter orreen than that of the more northern American 
latitude, with a slight mellow tinge of omnge. This ren- 
ders the effect, when viewed in the distance, pecuharly 



FAUSTIN FIRST. 259 

grateful and pleasant. We look upon it, and experience a 
feeling of satisfactory, happy contentment while the scene is 
before us. 

All the tropical fruits grow here spontaneously, and in 
luxurious abundance. The soil is not, however, cultivated 
with much industry or skill. The inhabitants, principally 
colored, are characteristically indolent and ignorant. The 
island has considerable foreign commerce, and owes a large 
foreign debt. The governments on it are a great drawback 
to its prosperity. Two exist ; and strong hatred is indulged 
between them. If these governments are not in actual hos- 
tility, they are constantly occupied with schemes to cripple 
each other ; and the consequence is, that the vital interests 
of both are neglected. This western portion of the island 
is the dominion of Faustin First. This monarch came into 
notice, and subsequently into power, amid the revolution 
which drove Boyer, then president of the republic, into 
exile. The contending parties could not unite upon a suc- 
cessor, and after long and angry wrangling, Solo que was 
taken up as a third man, and made president. He was a 
common drayman, bold, reckless, and uneducated. A more 
unfit individual to be trusted with power cannot be named. 
The sequel proves this. No sooner was he made president, 
than he began to use his official influence to change the 
form of the government, and concentrate in his person ab- 
solute authority. Finally, he turned monster, and on this 
insignificant theatre, by the promiscuous slaughter of his 
felloAV-citizens, was proclaimed emperor. A more ridicu- 
lous spectacle w^as never exhibited. The sovereigns of 
Europe must have felt honored by this new accession to 
their number, — this ''bright particular star" (ebony of 
course) in the galaxy of crowned heads ! Since that time, 



260 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

his heart has been intent on subjugating the neighboring 
government, and foreign powers have been constrained, from 
motives of humanity as well as of justice, to interpose their 
kind offices. Comparative tranquillity has since prevailed. 
The government of the eastern portion of the island has 
been internally more peaceful, and attracted less of the world's 
attention. The people are Catholics, and are called Domin- 
icans. They are believed to be more intelligent and stable 
than their uneasy neighboi*s. The principal city, on the 
southern side of the island, is St. Domingo. 

But the bright scene is fading away. Nothing of St. 
Domingo now appeai-s, but a long dull cloud, resting in 
sombre grandeur upon the eastern horizon. 

Fare thee well, lovely isle ; I may see thee no more, 
But in dreams of the night, when my -wanderings are o'er. 
Thy green hills and sweet vales were enchanting to me ; 
May the incense of Freedom be wafted to thee, 
From her altars that blaze on my own native strand, 
May her glory illumine thy beautiful land, 
And the halo they cast over ocean and main. 
Win thee back in her temple to worship again. 

To-day, a flying-fish, in its way over the vessel, came in 
fatal contact with the burnished cheek of one of our hardy 
tars, and fell lifeless on the deck. It is about ten inches 
lono-. Its head resembles in fiii^ure the fro2:"s: its back is 
dark brown, approaching black, and the remainder of the 
body is white. Its wings unite with its sides a little back 
of the frills ; thev are nearly as lonor as the bodv, and in 
shape and proportion very nearly resemble those of the bat, 
thoush the membranes connectino; the ribs are white and 
transparent. They spread, fold, and are used like the bat's. 
"When folded they lie very close to the baly. and are scarce- 



A STORM. 261 

\j discoverable except on particular examination; this 
proves that thej are not used as fins in swimming. It has 
two regularly-formed fins, situated back of its wings, and 
of ordinary size. Its tail is similar to that of other fish. 
It is an interesting curiosity, and the generous tar has pre- 
sented it to one of the passengers, who intends to preserve 
it in spirits. It is a specimen of the largest size. 

During the voyage I have seen many flocks of this fish. 
They rise out of the water in great numbers, and fly from 
twenty to fifty feet, keeping generally about two feet above 
the surface. Their white bodies, being constantly in motion, 
often reflect the light with almost as much power and bright- 
ness as a mirror. They are, it is said, excellent food. 

A sail in sight, at a great distance, over our ' ' larboard 
bow ! '' She is a brisj standinor to the north-east : her stud- 
ding-sails set. Her hull is not distinguishable from the 
dark element on which she rests ; but her canvas, standing 
beautifully relieved against the burnished sky, and lighted 
by the rays of the setting sun, looks like broad sheets of 
shining silver spread out upon the evening clouds. 

The Prometheus has not kept her '' speed good" for the 
last twenty-four hours, having made only two hundred and 
eight miles ; she was, therefore, at noon to-day, one thou- 
sand four hundred and thirty-seven miles from the city of 
New York. 

It is eight o'clock ; my shipmates are assembled on the 
quarter-deck, impatient to arrest any fitful zephyr that may 
chance to wander down from the north ; and I must join 
them. Good-night. 

April 28th. I was awakened at four o'clock this morn- 
ing, by the usual rock and heave of the vessel, and the 
cre^ikins of her massive timbers. The noise and confusion 



262 JOURNAL or the voyage, etc. 

on deck plainly told me of a change in the -feather. I 
" turned out.'"' and, behold ! a ne^y subject for my journal. 
No clear skies, calm seas, and gentle breezes ! Old Nep- 
tune has roused from his six days' siesta, and left his coi-al 
caves. He comes blustering up from the south-east, shak- 
ing his dripping trident angrily over his briny empire. 
The waves run fearfully high, and throw their white spray 
completely over the ship. She rolls, and pitches, and 
trembles. But the stanch old sea-bird bears herself man- 
fully in the conflict. With eyes fixed on her true course, 
she ploughs her rapid way onward, regardless of the war of 
the elements. Though the seas dash over her, and heavy 
clouds hang down upon her pathway ; though the swells 
heave her, or she settle deep into the trough of the ocean ; 
though the winds would head her off, nor sun, nor moon, 
nor stars shine out upon her, yet she deviates not, but minds 
her helm well, and proves her fidelity by her air-line track 
visible fiom her stern as far as the eye can reach. I love 
the good ship, and begin to feel assured that, under God, 
she will bear me safely on my journey to her destined port. 
We have now what at sea is called a blow, and the sailors 
are spreading a portion of the ship's canvas to aid her 
engine. All is excitement and joy, for we are flying on 
our waning way to San Juan. May it continue to blow 
until we get into port ! 

The increased motion of the vessel disturbs me a little, 
but 

" Bear me on, thou restless ocean, 
Let tlie winds my canvas svrell ; 
Heaves my heart with strong emotion, 
While I go far hence to dwell." 

In a storm or blow, the steamer "rocks and heaves;" 



SEAS, SWELLS, ETC. 263 

that is, it rolls sidewise and rises and falls at the same time. 
The heave or rising motion is the principal cause of sea- 
sickness ; for persons -v^'ill be sea-sick in calm as well as in 
stormy weather. The steamer always heaves more or less, 
even in a calm time, owing to the ceaseless swells of the 
ocean. 

The '' eyes of the vessel " are two cylindrical holes in her 
bows. These, in sail-vessels, are generally called hawse- 
holes, and through them the anchor-cables are led out when 
she is in port. 

" Seas " are waves that break over or dash upon the 
vessel — when she is said to "ship a sea." Swells are long, 
regular, rolling waves ; they are followed, of course, by cor- 
responding hollows or " troughs." They are produced by 
the tides and the winds. These swells are often very uni- 
form in size, and regular in their succession. The ocean is 
never at rest ; the tides necessarily producing motion or a 
current in the water at all times. From these influences, 
constantly operating, the wide, wide waste of waters, so 
much more extensive than the land, can never become un- 
wholesome, but must remain a changeless ocean of health — 
its ceaseless motion bringing every drop into frequent con- 
tact with the atmosphere, and imparting to it life and purity. 
Salt would not preserve it without motion. 

The '' blow " is over. It subsided while we were at din- 
ner, and the tars are " ho-heo^^-ing at the ropes to give all 
the ship's canvas to the breeze. A ship is a busy place — 
even in a calm no one is idle. If all the sailors are not 
required to direct her motions, those not thus engaged, or 
" turned in " for rest, are at work repairing ropes, mending 
sails, painting or mounting small boats, sweeping the decks, 
or in some other similar employment. 



264 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

Sevenil occurrences have distinguished this daj on ship- 
board. A steerage passenger climbed into the rigging — a 
violation of a law of the ship. Two of the tars were sent 
up to '-make him fast" there, and did so after a smart 
tussle, as they express the idea. He was kept in durance 
only a short time, but when he reappeared on deck his 
manifestations were any other than placid. The tars called 
him " green," laughed at, and left him to hum over the 
couplet, 

"0, if I dare, I couldn't, 
And if I could, I shouldn't ! " 

It was announced that an L'ish lad smuggled himself on 
board ship, while in port, to make the voyage to San Fran- 
cisco : that he had been discovered, and -s^as then employed 
in deck-ser\'ice to pay his passage : but that he had no 
means to make the land transit, and appealed to the sym- 
pathy of the benevolent for aid. He has resided three years 
in California, and has a mother, in indigent circumstances, in 
the city of Xew York. His youthful imagination had been 
fired by the tales of gold to which he had listened at her 
widowed hearth-stone. He left her unbidden, and embai'ked, 
as in this instance, clandestinely, for the land of his young 
dreams and filial hopes. He was quite successful. It might 
almost be said that Providence forgave the youthful adven- 
turer his violation of parental duty, in view of his noble ob- 
ject and resolution. He returnal from his fii"St visit, after 
a year, to receive the blessing and embrace of his mother, 
and relieve her poverty with the sweet fruits of his toils 
Having done this, he is now on the Siime errand, for the 
same holy purpose : and, although we xaay not approve the 
means by which he seeks to accomplish it, we cannot but 



PICKPOCKETS AND ROBBERS OX BOARD THE SUIP. 265 

admire his ambition and manly perseverance. Suffice it to 
saj, the little fellow will go with •* the crowd.*' and 

** His fiice is as bright 
As his heart is light." 

This evening we are stai'tled by the rumor that several 
pickpockets and robbei's are on board the ship. I learn they 
have been suspected, and closely watched, during the voyage, 
but no certain proof appeared until to-day. The captain is 
now catechizing them very minutely. They are everywhere 
present, but not long in any place; consulting together, 
looking into the state-rooms, even those of the ladies ; the 
first to be up in the morning, and the last to be in bed at 
night. One of them says he is a doctor, the other, that he 
is a schoolmaster. The doctor, we presume, administei'S 
bullets and bowie knives, and the schoolmaster teaches 
state-prison sciences. They are, however, powerless now. 
The captain told them, to-night, he would put them in irons 
before the vessel gets in port. The vessel at noon had made 
225 miles since the last -'reckoning; *' she was, therefore, 
1662, by her '' log,'' from New York. 

Another day is gone. The sun, whose orient was ob- 
scured and threatening, is sinking beautifully in the 
western sky. His broad, full disk just tips the restless 
surflice of the silver waters. The horizon and the arching 
clouds are burnished with his mellow beams. Now he is 
seen no more ; but his rays are still reflected in hues inim- 
itable, broad, and high around the scene of his descending 
glory. Thus may it be with us. When we shall retire 
this night, may some deed or word of oui-s be active for good 
^^hile we sleep. 

" Count that day lost whose low desceadiug sun 
Views from thy hand no worthy action done." 

23 



266 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

April 29th. The daj-god was abroad in his majesty 
this morning long before I left my pillow — the thief and 
robber excitement had kept me up to a late hour. No wind, 
not even a breeze or zephyr, and the ship moves slowly. 
The captain has just expressed a wish that it might blow 
from some point of the compass, even if it should come 
"hard ahead," — for, with a head wind, we should make 
more progress than we now do, because the fires would gen- 
erate more steam. 

To-day the passengers are preparing to leave the ship. 
They are going from room to room, looking up stray proper- 
ty, and packing all articles not required for constant use. 
They are also obtaining provisions to sustain them on the 
journey across the country. There is a general inspection 
of fire-arms. My employers handed me a revolver just as I 
went on board ; but, as I have no skill in the use of it, I 
shall deliver it to my friend, and say to him, that he must 
do all the shooting and I will do the running, for I feel that 
I have a talent for that. 

To-day, at noon. Captain Churchill informed me that we 
were crossing the sun's track, and I saw it north of me for 
the first time. It will, of course, be more and more appar- 
ent as we sail further south. The heat is oppressive, and 
the breezes are not cool and refreshing, but warm, and there- 
fore impart no invigorating influence. I presume their effect 
is different on the land, especially in the evening. 

This afternoon nearly every passenger is employed in 
writing letters. We use lead pencils, for want of ink. A 
letter-bag hangs by the window of the purser's office, and 
all letters deposited in it will return with the ship to New 
York, and be there deposited in the post-office. The bag is 



FIRST VISIT TO THE FORECASTLE. 267 

not closed until the ship leaves port at San Juan-del-Norte 
for that city. 

A cry is heard from the quarter-deck ; " Ship-ahoy ! " 
(What, and where from 7) '' Brazilian man-of-war ! " Up 
jump the passengers, hand over eyes, and eyes strained in 
the direction of a vessel standing off to the leeward. It was 
discovered by the " green-ones " to be only a fishing vessel, 
named " Brazilian man-of-war," and then Jack- tar shook 
his fat sides with laughter while the '' gulls " went silently 
below. 

I made my first visit to the forecastle this evening. I 
knew the number of steerage passengers, but did not realize 
their condition until I went among them. Two hundred 
and eighty-seven human beings are there congregated. There 
they eat and sleep, and take all the exercise they can have. 
At the time of my visit they were on deck, men, women, 
and children, enjoying all they could enjoy of the evening 
air. The men were clad in shirts and pants only. Several 
children were nude above their hips. These passengers 
were crowded so closely that it was with considerable diffi- 
culty I could pass among them. Many appeared careworn 
and exhausted, and w^ere negligent of personal cleanliness ; 
a very few only of the men had afforded themselves the 
luxury of " a shave " since they came on ship-board. Among 
them were found many intelligent, even well-educated per- 
sons. The greater proportion were individuals who had 
been unfortunate or unsuccessful in business in the places 
of their former abode, and who had now just enough means 
to land them upon the shores of California, if no accident 
should befall them. A few were strong and vigorous young 
men. These were in pursuit only of wealth, and entertained 
the hope of " making their pile," and returning to enjoy it 



268 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

with their former friends. Several were far advanced in 
years, and yet were depending wholly on themselves to ob- 
tain the object of their desires. I presume these persons 
are a fair sample of the majority of the adventurers who go 
to California. As I looked over the multitude in the dusky 
twilight, my mind involuntarily travelled back to see them 
in their former homes. I could well imagine that all of 
them, perhaps, had left behind privileges and blessings more 
precious than all the treasure of the golden hills ; that many 
were doomed to sore and irremediable disappointment, and 
that some, even of the strongest, would never behold the 
land of their glowing hopes. 

At noon to-day, the ship had made 240 miles, and we 
were, consequently, 1902 miles from New York. 

" Night is the time for I'est ! 

'T is sweet, -when labors close, 
To draw around an aching br&\st 

The curtain of repose, 
Stretch the tired limbs, and lay the head 
Down on our own delightful bed." 

April 30th. Land ! Land ! Land ! Delightful sound ! 
AYelcome sight ! The first division of my long, long jour- 
ney will be accomplished before mid-day, and the scene 
will be greatly changed. The weather is fiiir, and the sur- 
face of the ocean is smooth, but the temperature is very 
oppressive. The sun is directly overhead, and it is impos- 
sible to obtain a shade without an awning. Objects cast no 
shadow. "We have a late breakfast this morning, because 
the steamer will arrive at San Juan before noon, and it is 
expected we shall go on board the small boats immediately 
to ascend the river. On this route travellers provide and 
prepare their own provisions. I have a supply for three 



ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN. 269 

days, which, on the assurance of the agents of the Transit 
Company, is the longest term of time occupied in making 
the journey across the country. I will, therefore, now await 
the events of our debarkation from the faithful old steamer 
Prometheus. 

10 o'clock, A. M. The ship has just •' let go her anchor,'^ 
in the small bay or mouth of the river San Juan (San 
"VYan). The steamer Daniel "Webster, from New Orleans, is 
also here, and her passengers are to go up the river at the 
same time with those of the Prometheus. 

We have made, since noon yesterday, 195 miles. The 
whole distance, therefore, from port to port, by the ship's 
track, and it was generally direct, is 2097 miles, and the 
time since we set sail is nine days and a half 
23* 



CHAPTER 11. 

Sau Juan-del-Xorte ; River and Lake Xiearagua ; Seeuery ; Mule Eide ; 
Climate, Ac. 

April 30th, 3 o'clock, P. M. This is the locality dis- 
tiiiijuished bv the Clayton discussion in Coni^ress, knomi as 
that of the Mosquito Question. 

As the steamer lies in the bay. her bo-ws directed up the 
riyer, on the starboard or right hand side, in a small cove, 
is the old Spanish town of San Juan-del-Xorte. now often 
called Graytown, and on the left is Pimta Ai-enas. a long, 
narrow strip of land which appears to be an island. On the 
latter is the depot of the Yanderbilt Steamship Company, 
where it has made large outlays in fixtures and improve- 
ments, and has deposits of coal and other property. Sov- 
ereigjjtj over this point was claimed by three petty powers, 
Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and '-'Mosquito." Great Britain, 
some time ago, interfered in support of the Mosquito claim. 
In virtue of corporate privileges gmnted by the Mosquito 
king, the authorities of Graytown threatened to seize 
Punta Arenas for public use. The Company, relying on a 
title derived from the government of Nicaragua, resisted the 
attempt. Hence the controversy in Congress respecting the 
interference of John Bull. 

The land here is very low and level. "N'iewed from the 
ship, the buildings on both sides of the bay appear to rise 
out of the water. The country, as far as I can see. is 



ACCIDENT OX TUE RIVER. 271 

covered with a clingy green foliage down to the water's edge. 
It is not variegated, but is peculiar. I shall speak of it 
again hereafter. The clunate is warm, damp, and unhealthy 
for foreigners. 

A sad accident has just happened on ship-board. One of 
the steerage passengei-s, a young man, about twenty-five 
years of age, in passing from the forecastle to the midship, 
attempted to jump over a horizontal iron brace, raised about 
two feet above the deck, but, his feet hitting it, he was 
thrown violently upon his breast, and expired in less than 
half an liour. ffis name is George Culver, and he had 
resided latterly in Chicago. He was bound for California. 
Surely, '-in the midst of life we are in death." As I 
looked upon his prostrate form, my mind reverted to the visit 
made to his quarters only two evenings since, and to my 
reflections as I surveyed the promiscuous multitude. How 
feebly was the thought then realized, that doubtless more 
than one of them would not live even to see the land of their 
hopes ! How sudden, how fearful, has been the exempli- 
fication ! And in this ''region and shadow of death," is it 
too much to believe that the "King of Terrors"' will 
demand still another victim before we shall round the 
" Golden Horn " ? 

The unfortunate man expired about one o'clock, p. M, and 
at two he was resting in his grave. His body, enclosed in a 
cofiin of rough boards, was borne fi'om the steamer in a 
small boat, rowed by two sailors, and attended by only one 
of the mates, and another person. By these four individ- 
uals it was deposited in a damp and lonely grave, in the 
Company's grounds, on this foreign shore. Xo kindred eye 
was there to drop a tear over the stranger's dust ; no voices 
to unite in a funeral hymn, but the wild sea-bird's and the 
ocean's. 



272 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

I have said that the foliage around Gmytown is peculiar. 
The grass is a curiosity. It grows in tufts, — many broad, 
hard blades springing from a common root. These tufts are 
crowded very closely together, and the spii-es lie nearly in a 
horizontal position, giving the whole the appearance of a 
green matting. The bark of the trees is almost universally 
smooth, and the limbs of many of them grow like the blades 
of grass from a common centre, and branch out like a spread 
umbrella. The forest trees are not remarkable for either 
size or height. I have not seen any which could be man- 
ufactured into lumber or used for timber. The trunks of 
many of them are surrounded with a singular vine, which 
seems to grow downwards, the lower ends having no con- 
nection with the orround ; I raised several of them. The 
body of the vine resembles that of the cactus, but the foliage 
is like that of the woodbine. I tried to learn the names of 
the difierent trees and of this ™e, but was unsuccessful. 
The natives have no knowledge of the names. The ground 
in the forests is densely covered with underbrush. I 
observed, scattered thickly around, a plant having very 
broad and long leaves, resembling somewhat those of the 
northern pie-plant, but they were much larger. Some of 
the stocks were fifteen feet in height, and the leaves more 
than a foot in breadth, and four feet long. 

Another plant resembles the brake, but often stands 
twenty feet in height. The foliage here is of a lighter green 
than that of the north, and is often blended with orange. 
As a general remark, vegetation is here more majestic and 
showy than at the north, but is less suitable for use. 

No husbandry is visible. I have travelled a mile into the 
country this afternoon, but have not seen a cultivated field, 
a gaixlen flower, or a fruit tree. The inhabitants raise no 



SAN JUAN-DEL-XORTE. 273 

stock. I saw not a cow. slieep nor hog. Two dwarf 
horses, mere carcasses, were feeding on the common. I 
saw a diity goat, a monkey, a fliwn, two dogs, and clouds 
of tui'kej buzzards. The latter are regarded with veneration 
bv the natives, because they consume all the offal, and thus 
promote the public health, and relieve the necessity of its 
removal by manual labor. They are a wild, black bird, 
about the size of the turkey.. and appear in flocks on the 
house-tops and in the streets, no one molesting them. 

The natives claim to be descendants of the Castilians. but 
they resemble the northern Indians in complexion, though 
they are inferior in stature and strength. They speak 
imperfect English and Spanish. The town contains, 
besides these natives, some Americans. Spaniards. Por- 
tuguese and Africans. They live and associate promis- 
cuously. I entered many dwellings, and in none were all 
the inmates of the same extraction or complexion, but they 
appeared to be contented and happy. They are indolent — 
the effect, I presume, of the climate. The Europeans and 
Americans dress respectably, but the natives are grossly 
negligent. Some of them, especially the children and the 
Africans, can scarcely be said to wear clothes, though all 
have some covering. 

It is claimed by a party here that the port of San Juan- 
del-Xorte is in the ten*itory of Mosquito, and that the latter 
is a sovereignty independent of Nicaragua. 

We called to-day on the Patriarch, or ^lentor of the 
town, Capt. Samuel Shephard. He is an aged and decrepit 
man, a blunt old sailor: but interesting, nevertheless, for 
his knowledge of the primitive history of the place. At 
the time of our visit he was swinging leisurely in his 
hammock, and received us with unaffected cordialitv, 



274 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

retaining, however, from necessity, his place of rest. A 
native of the United States, and in all his feelings strongly 
American, he vrarms up vehemently at the mention of the 
name of Great Britain, or of her connection with the 
Mosquito difficulty. He claims the country, or some 
portion of it, as his own. Its form of government is regal, 
and its present sovereign is George "William Clarence, an 
Indian. This pei-sonage has visited England, where he 
probably found his name and received some education. 
Exclusive of the population of the to"v\Ti, the subjects of this 
dusky potentate are a few Mexicans and Spaniards, and a 
filthy, lazy, naked tribe of Indians and negroes. 

The town of San Juan-del-Norte contains about five 
hundred inhabitants. It has only one principal street. 
More than half its present size has been added since the 
intercourse with California by steamships was established. 
It has no schools nor church. If the lower-classes have 
anv relidous knowledo^e it is Roman Catholic. The streets 
are not worked, but are covered with the native grass mat- 
ting, like the fields. The old structures are low. having 
sharp, thatched roofs, extending fir down over the dooi^. 
They are built of bamboo or cane, are generally small, and 
in a square form. The modern houses are larger, and have 
shincrled roofs. None of the old structures have srlass 
windows, and but few of the modern have glass in the fii*st 
story. The windows are a simple square hole in the sides 
and ends of the buildings, which are neither lathed nor 
plastered. No house that I have seen contains more than 
two rooms, — the partition being placed about midway across 
it. Almost every building in the town is either a tavern, 
grocery, store, bowling alley, billiard, or other gaming 
house. The families appear to live amongst the goods to 



SAN JUAX-PEL-XORTE. 275 

be sold, or the games to be plajed. The modem houses 
have their -^-indows guarded about half way up with small 
iron rods. The great object to be attained by the arrange- 
ment of the interior appears to be the free circulation of 
air. Provisions of every kind here are imported. They 
are principally roots and fruits, which are procui'ed about 
sixty miles to the eastward, and are, of course, only tropical 
productions. I saw no flour, and only a few sea-biscuit. 
All the animal food used, and which is but a little, is salted, 
and is brought from the northward. The trade is chiefly 
with the passengers arriving and departing on the steamers. 
These arrivals and departures are one each every fifteen or 
twenty days. The steamer usually remains in the bay from 
one to ten da^'s, but the passengers continue on board, and 
only go ashore for amusement or curiosity. 

As I have stated, groceries and taverns are numerous ; 
ardent spirit is the "crack article'' on sale, and is drank 
to great excess by residents and visitors. It is said that 
this trade has increased tenfold in three years. 

A few Americans and Europeans are engaged in the 
coasting trade, to supply their small market with provisions 
and clothing. This, with the retail at home, is about all 
the private business that is done, except that some natives 
and foreigners are employed in transporting visitors in sail- 
boats to and from the vessels in the harbor, as the town has 
no ship dock. This is a port of entry. The climate is very 
unhealthy. Foreigners often from carelessness sicken and 
die here in a few days. But two seasons are recognized, 
the rainy and the dry. The former begins in the last days 
of May. and continues until December. During this season 
it rains almost constiintly, and the sky continues overcast ; 
yet those who reside here prefer this portion of the year. 



276 JOURXAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

for its more comfortable temperature. Thej wear India- 
rubber or oil-cloth over-garments, and go about Tvith j:>erfect 
unconcern. In the dry season, the thermometer stands with 
much uniformity where it now is, at about 90° at noon. 
Then it seldom rains. There are, however, some i-ainy days 
in this season, and heavy mists fall during the nights. It 
is often said, at the north, that the fruits here are unhealthy 
for northern people : but the statement is erroneous. The 
belief has originated from the fact that many travellers have 
indulged immoderately, and in consequence have sickened 
and died. The same imprudence would probably have 
produced the same result in any climate. 

Foreigners here assure me that the tale of danger -"is 
but a tale.'' This remark is true of all the tropical fruits. 
They may be enjoyed by foreigners with impunity, if used 
with prudence. 

" Night, sable goddess, -welcome thine embrace." 

May 1st. Another Sabbath. We are yet in the bay. 
I am informed that the river steamei'S are aground about 
nine miles away. It is hoped they will pass down with the 
next tide. As we are at rest in the ship, and it is "the 
day of rest,'" I went down among the passengers, in search 
of books, and to my surprise learned that they, like myself, 
had omitted to provide themselves. Few valuable books are on 
board. The steamer has no library. I could only find a copy 
of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," the book that is everpvhere present. 
In these circumstances, beginning to fear I might neeii a 
good degree of patience, I sat down under the awning, and 
read the book of Job. I then read the tract distributed at 
noon, entitlai "Why should I read the Bible ? "' Strange 
question! Why should an accountable, immoi*tal being 



SAX JUAX-DEL-NORTE. 277 

look into the mirror of immortality ? Mirror, because in 
the Bible himself is reflected ; of immortality, because there 
that great mystery is brought to light. 

*' Read and i-evere the sacred page ; a page 
"Where triumplis immortality ; a page 
"Which not the whole creation can produce, 
"NVhich not the conflagi-ation can destroy." 

May 2d. "We are yet in the bay. But we have received 
information that one at least of the river steamers will 
arrive this day. Good news ! Xothing is more unpleasant 
than delay on a journey, especially in an unhealthy country. 
To make the best of a disagreeable necessity. I accompanied 
a number of my travelling companions on a second visit to 
the town. The natives here have a strong prejudice against 
Americans and the United States. They are partial to the 
English. Some of the Americans also sympathize with this 
feeling. They say their government is more regardless of 
its citizens in foreign countries than any other nation : that 
Grreat Britain is prompt and decided in reference to her 
own. and that this foct is undei-stood over the world. They 
say that their government often makes a bluster, but very 
seldom acts while action can be beneficial to the citizen. I 
know not how well founded this censure may be. 

I took to-day a more careful survey of the town and its 
suburbs. Many of the old houses, to which I have before 
referred, are built by driving stakes into the ground at 
exact distances, and then weaving long withes, about one 
inch in diameter, compactly between them. The thatch is 
generally made of the long, broad leaves of plantain, banana 
or palm. In the town are several buildings of modern con- 
struction, which are finished on the exterior with good taste 
and painted white, but the interior contains nothing worthy 
24 



278 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

of note but a very highly ornamented bar, and its usual 
sparkling concomitants. The flags of several nations are 
floating at difi*erent points, and among them I notice the 
" stars and stripes." That ensign always gives me a home 
feeling, and whatever prejudices parties here may indulge, 
I never look upon it without emotions of pride, that the 
Union it represents is my native land. Many of the people 
here sleep in hammocks, constructed of a kind of weed 
resembling hemp, but when prepared it is a beautiful net- 
work. I passed many dwellings about three o'clock, P. M., 
and saw men, women, and children (natives), nearly nude, 
reclining listlessly in the suspended hammocks, and swing- 
ing gently to produce a little circulation of the air. By 
the river's side were many women employed in w^ashing for 
the passengers. A little higher civilization would mate- 
rially improve their appearance. They use only cold water 
at their work, but the washed articles are very white and 
clean. In one place, where women were thus employed, I 
discovered, floating on the w^ater only a few yards from the 
shore, two huge crocodiles. The women had their eyes on 
the monsters, and remained near the margin of the river, 
but continued their labor. Those animals make no attacks 
on or near the shores. Thousands of lizards appear. They 
are from an inch to two feet in length, a.nd are harmless. 
I observed in the woods a peculiar tree. Generally it is 
very large, with widely-extending branches loaded with very 
small leaves. Thickly scattered over, and growing on these 
branches, are clusters of long green stalks and leaves resem- 
bling those of the pine-apple. I examined these clusters, 
and found them to be a part of the tree, but I could learn 
nothing of their nature, name, or qualities. 

It may be remarked, generally, that the furniture in the 



NICARAGUA RIVER. 279 

houses, except in two or three instances, is simple and poor ; 
and that domestic order and taste are strangers in the 
dwellings of the natives. 



O" 



" The night comes down, and in his panoply 
Of clouds foretells a glorious morrow." 

May 3d. A bright and beautiful day. I left my 
quarters early, the craft in which we are to proceed on our 
journey up the Nicaragua river having come down after 
the close of my journal last evening. It is a small pro- 
peller, and is a frail structure, though it may safely convey 
two hundred of us, because it has done as much at other 
times. We have occupied two hours in getting under way 
in it, and are not oiF yet. The cabin passengers of two 
large steamers, the Prometheus and Daniel Webster, are to 
be accommodated, or unaccommodated, in this one diminutive 
aifair, for the distance of seventy-five miles on our way, being 
to the outlet of the lake. Two barges attend the steamer 
to convey the luggage, and as a provision for any accident. 

Good-by, a long, and I hope a last, good-by to Gray- 
town. We have left the bay and are headed up the river. 
As we progress, the scenery becomes more and more 
magnificent. My young friend at my side is completely 
enchanted. " ! " says he, "if I had only brought my 
angel along, her happiness and my own would have paid 
doubly for all the outlay. What a dolt was I to leave her 
behind ! " Both shores of the river are deeply shaded with 
a species of lofty palm, having long tasselly branches, which, 
bending gracefully over, lave refreshingly in the lonely 
waters. Intermingled with these are various other splendid 
trees, with broad, regular, arching tops. Now, a lovely 
island is passed, and its foliage and perfume bring back to 



280 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

the mind of the beholder his early readings of '' Arcadian 
vales and fields of Arabian spices." Here is the graceful 
cocoa-nut, whose tall, branchless trunk peers far up among 
the surrounding trees, and presents the mammoth fruit pen- 
dant from its slender top, in seemingly proud relief agaicst 
the sun-bright clouds. There is its still loftier fellow ; 
straight, with not a twig to mar its symmetry, until from a 
single point it sends still higher its slender, leafless branches, 
and terminates in a broad round top covered with deep 
green foliage. Intermingled with the leaves are massive 
blue and white flowers, that nod unceasingly, as if in approval 
of the admiration manifested in our eager gaze. 

But in the midst of all this magnificence, suddenly we are 
aground ! motionless. The sublime and the ridiculous, the 
pleasing and the perplexing, strangely commingled ! The 
tenders are beating about in search of a suitable depth of 
water. The twin steamboat has just heaved in sight ahead, 
on its do^raward passage, loaded with returning and I hope 
satisfied Californians. We take the track pursued by it, and 
are again making comfortable headway. 

Bananas and plantains begin to contribute their presence 
to diversify the scenery. Their long, broad, smooth leaves 
are plainly distinguishable. A species of sugar-cane is 
scattered along the shore. It is a beautiful plant, about ten 
feet in height, with a crest of leaves resembling a tassel. 
Occasionally a tree is seen, of considerable size and height, 
the body and limbs of which are nearly white, while the 
leaves, which are few and small, are pale-green. The shade 
side of the foliage is bright, and as it flutters in the sun the 
tree appears to be covered with moving spangles. Two 
large birds in bright crimson plumage are flying gayly over 
the stream. Their fun feathers are very long, and are tipped 



THE SETTLER. 281 

in black. They are called macas (macaws), a species of 
parrot. A plant about twenty feet high is in view, having 
leaves long and narrow like those of corn. On the top is a 
large, bright-red flower. It is about eighteen inches broad 
and two feet in length. Whether this flower is odoriferous, I 
cannot determine ; but, judging from its shape and figure, 
being long and straight, I believe the flower leaves are stiff 
and emit no perfume, and that it is a kind of bur. 

A noise on deck calls my attention, and I see all eyes 
directed to the nearest shore, where a monkey is exhibiting 
himself on a tree. His tail is twisted round a limb, which 
is hanging far over the stream, and he is sw^inging violently. 
Now he drops and catches with his tail and hands upon the 
lower limbs ; and now he leaps to a higher, and looks down 
on us inquisitively. The little black rascal ! how he chat- 
ters ! He is an accomplished ground and lofty tumbler. 

We have reached an island. It is cultivated, and is the 
first evidence of civilization we have seen. This island is 
eighteen miles from Gray town. The steamer ''woods" 
here. The proprietor has a comfortable dwelling, and has 
tried to have a garden. His house is small but neat. It 
is clapboarded, shingled and painted white, but is neither 
lathed nor plastered. It is very conveniently furnished. 
The inmates are Americans, and are clad in a material as 
gauze-like and thin as modesty will permit. In the garden 
are squash vines full-grown, but which bear no squashes. 
Corn is growing, having ears not only in the silk but appar- 
ently fit to be boiled ; yet they are sickly and imperfect. 
Here are, also, turnip plants, cucumber vines, plantains, 
bananas, lemon trees, and various other species of tropical 
vegetation. This fruitless attempt to grow northern vege- 
tables in this latitude suggests the doubt whether they can 
24* 



282 



be successfully cultivated. But the soil has some strength, 
or it would not sustain so large a growth of vegetation. It 
must be admitted, however, that this characteristic relates 
more particularly to the foliage than to the plant. 

I have seen no forest tree which at the north would be 
called large. I have observed none that are more than 
fifteen inches in diameter. Height, disproportionate to 
girth, is the striking peculiarity of the trees. Cabbage trees 
are numerous. They are of various sizes, some of them 
being thirty or forty feet in height and very straight. Their 
only foliage is at the top of their trunks, and consists of 
four or five branches, which are about five feet in length, 
and bear long, slim leaves. The lignum vit93 tree abounds, 
and grows to a great height. Its bark is deep red, and its 
foliage, of which it has but little, is very dark. Several 
specimens of the caoutchouc or India-rubber tree are seen 
near the margin of the river. Large, bright-red and yellow 
flowers abound. 

It is now late in the afternoon, and the monkeys are hold- 
ing a perfect jubilee on both sides of the river. The trees 
are full of them, and their chatter is heard from a great 
distance. They are of various colors, gray, brown and 
black, and are of all sizes. They are jumping from the 
ground to the limbs and from one tree to another, scream- 
ing at the top of their voice. 

Now, all is still. Night is closing around our frail bark, 
which is about forty miles up the river. No signs of culti- 
vation, or of civilization, meet the voyager's eye ; no objects 
but the muddy stream, and the solemn, now silent, prime- 
val forest. 

" Solitude ! where are the charms 
Tliat sages have seea in thy face ? " 



A NIGHT ON THE BOAT. 283 

May 4th. About ten o'clock last night, our frail craft 
"let go" her anchors until morning. A dangerous rock 
lies in the stream, a few miles ahead, and the pilot dared 
not attempt to pass it without the aid of daylight. I cer- 
tainly commend his caution, for shipwreck at that place, at 
midnight, might prove not merely disastrous, but fatal to 
many of the passengers. So there we were, and there we 
sat until four o'clock this morning, 

" like Patience on a monument 

Smiling at Grief." 

" What a night was there ! " Huddled together, in our 
diminutive craft, were two hundred passengers, of both sexes, 
all colors and all ages. Some were " anchored" or '' half 
seas over," others sick, all weary, and not a few positively 
lost their tempers ! Much of the vessel's room is occupied 
by her enginery and fuel, and tons of luggage are stowed 
in her cabins. Not a bed nor sleeping-place is on board, 
except a few hammocks belonging to passengers. Was not 
that " a halcyon place of rest" ? We packed ourselves away 
as well as we could, on the coal, the luggage, the seats, the 
floor; men, women and children, promiscuously. But at 
length the day dawned, the sun rose clear, and " our griefs 
of the night" were soon forgotten amidst the constantly 
increasing magnificence of ther surrounding scenery. The 
lan'd is here much higher, rising at a little distance in the 
interior into mountains. The forests are more stately, but 
are yet unbroken by the woodman's axe, uncheered by the 
curling chimney-smoke of the adventurous settler. Years 
may pass away before this scene will be changed. But it 
is the prevailing opinion that these lands are susceptible of 
successful cultivation, and that the increasing spirit and 



284 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

vigor of this age will ultimately reduce them to its domiu- 
ion, and transform them into cultivated fields. The commu- 
nication opened between the great oceans by the "Transit 
Company" may be the dawn of a bright future to this now 
dark but interesting land. 

I will not attempt to describe the music of the bn-ds with 
which we were greeted this morning. Its tone, sweetness 
and variety, can be heard in the mind long after the song- 
sters are gone ; but language has no words to express, the 
pen no adequate skill to convey, a correct idea of the reality. 
Birds of every imaginable hue, form, size and species, cov- 
ered all the trees and darkened the sky in their flight from 
shore to shore. 

I observe a remarkable vine, common along the shore. 
It is white, about the size of a common bed-rope, which it 
resembles, and is without foliage. This vine often reaches 
from the top of the tallest trees to the ground, in a line so 
straight as to suggest the idea that it has been stretched 
and fastened. Sometimes it is gracefully twisted and coiled, 
and extends for a long distance from tree to tree. 

About noon we overtook a bongo (oar-boat) on the left 
shore, in which were a number of natives. It belongs to 
the "Transit Company." The natives are tawny, like the 
northern Indians, having long hair, and are naked. Their 
size is less than the ordinary northern stature. A short 
distance onward was another bongo, managed by natives. 
It was aground, and they were engaged in the effort to "get 
her off." Their nudity was favorable to their business, 
wKich was mostly in the water. They gave us a hurrah as 
we passed. 

"We have come to Machuca Rapids, and are now to land 
on the right shore of the river. Here are four "bongos," 



MACHUCA RAPIDS. 285 

each manned by six natives. Our luggage is conveyed in 
the small boats, and the passengers proceed on foot across a 
portage of about one mile. 

The path along the margin of the winding stream, — over- 
hung by the beautiful foliage of the tall trees, and studded 
on one side by the dense and, to me, novel and interesting 
undergrowth, — is pleasant, and the walk adds an agreeable 
variety to the journey. Arrived at the station above the 
rapids, we find two smaller steamers than that we left, and a 
house constructed of poles, and thatched with plantain and 
banana ; and here are offered for sale, beer at two dimes 
the glass, coffee at one dime the cup, pies, cakes, herring, 
cheese, etc. Nothing is sold for less than a dime, and fifty 
cents is accounted but four dimes ; a shilling being but a 
dime. A similar '• catch-penny" is kept at the other end 
of this rapid. 

As we "penetrate the interior," the country presents a 
better appearance, — evidences of a stronger and more pro- 
ductive soil. We have seen, this afternoon, several majestic 
trees ; one of them, it is judged, is fifty feet in circumference 
near the ground. It is one of a species very numerous here. 
The trunk is not, however, a regularly round body, as might 
be supposed from the statement of its girth ; although its 
measurement is fifty feet, yet the thickest solid place in 
the body will not exceed eighteen inches. It is formed so 
as to give it the appearance of a trunk supported by three, 
and often four immense bastions, with very deep hollows 
between them. 

We have arrived at Castillo Rapid, twelve miles from 
Machuca, and have passed, without difiiculty, over two 
others, Yalos and Mice rapids. 

At Castillo we embarked in a larger steamer, above the 



286 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

rapid, for Lake Nicaragua. This place is a military post. 
The old fort Castillo stands on a hill, and in the days of its 
glory must have been a strong defence and protection of the 
communication by water from the Atlantic into the lake. 
It is now a romantic ruin. It is constructed like all the 
military structures of the age and people with whom it 
originated. The material is principally brick, although 
sections of it are composed of stone. The bricks are very 
large and durable, and the cement is harder than the bricks. 
This structure is quadrangular and consists of three stories 
or sections, each of which, above the lowest, is smaller in 
dimensions than that on which it rests. The top is a broad, 
flat surface, having a parapet, about six feet in height, with 
embrasures on each side. The remains of a deep moat or 
ditch are perceptible at its base, and also on the interior 
circumference of the first section. It contains many damp, 
dark rooms or vaults, connected by narrow passages. This 
defence was erected by the Spaniards, in those chivalric 
days when Spain, England, and France, were expending 
millions of treasure, and shedding seas of blood, in the 
struggle for supremacy in the western hemisphere. I could 
not ascertain, from either native or foreign residents, the 
year of its erection ; but the former were quite ambitious 
to relate many traditions connected with its history. The 
fair conclusion to be drawn from their statements respecting 
its age, is, that it was built about one hundred and seventy 
years ago. They informed me that the rapid here is artifi- 
cial, the work of an old Spanish commander, and that it 
was designed to prevent the transportation of supplies for 
an English or French expedition, then penetrating the 
region. The story is not very plausible, for the rapid is 
long, the rocks are massive, and the fall, for a quarter of a 



CASTILLO. 287 

mile, is so great as apparently to countervail the probabilities 
that it was formed by human agency. The age of the ruin 
might have been ascertained on the spot, but for that vandal 
spirit which despoils every relic on which the hands can be 
laid. The year and reign in which it was founded were 
graven on a stone tablet, which was placed in the masonry 
over the main entrance ; but some American, regardless of 
those dictates of propriety which should restrain the indul- 
gence of this passion for relics connected with the early history 
of a neighboring nation, forced the interesting record from 
its rest of ages, and brought it to the city of New York. 
The people of Castillo are not pleased with the act. But 
there, on the frowning summit of the highest hill, command- 
ing an extensive view of the beautiful San Jupn in either 
direction, romantic by its associations with the shadowy 
past and venerable from its dilapidation and decay, the dark 
old ruin stands. There may it be permitted to continue, 
undespoiled, 

" A footprint on the sands of time," 

upon which the future generations, who may inhabit this 
land, shall gaze with pride and satisfaction, while they com- 
pare themselves, their achievements in the peaceful arts of 
civilization, and their consequent superiority in moral and 
political power, with the rude triumphs and ruder virtues 
of their ancestors. 

Castillo contains about one hundred inhabitants. It has 
two principal and several secondary hotels. The " stars and 
stripes" are flying before a spacious wooden building con- 
structed in the modern style, situated at the landing, and into 
which the luggage and goods of passengers are sometimes de- 
posited for safety. ^lany of the natives here are respectably 



288 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

clad; but those employed in the Company's service, like those 
below, generally appear in undress. Some of them wear a 
small strip of cloth around the waist. The captain of a gang is 
generally dignified with the ornament of a pair of red drawers. 

We tarried for the night at the '' Castillo Hotel." It is 
a frame building, clapboarded, and thatched with palm leaves. 
It has a gaudy bar, the shelves of which are studded with 
well-filled, fancy decanters. The upper story is divided, 
lengthwise, equally by a long hall, on one side of which 
are rooms, each containing two or three cots ; and on the 
other is an apartment containing as many as fifty similar 
conveniences, placed in rows of two each, one above the 
other. Every cot is furnished with one blanket. Those who 
desire may be provided with a hammock. For the privi- 
lege of spending the night in one of the small cloth rooms 
five dollars is charged, and one dollar for a similar privilege 
in the general room. Meals are one dollar each. After the 
fatigue of the past toilsome day, I anticipate sweet sleep on 
one of these humble beds. My own is situated before a 
latticed window, overlooking the river ; a fine breeze comes 
in upon it, and the roar of the tumbling waters w^ill be a 
lullaby to my excited nerves. 

Before I retired, most of my companions had sought their 
pillows. Pillows ! How strong is the force of mental 
association ! No, the weary wanderers had no pillows ! I 
went to take a survey of their sleeping apartment, and there 
they were, sixty-two by my own count, scattered promiscu- 
ously, men, women, and children, over the floor. Above 
these, swinging gracefully in their suspended hammocks, 
were many others. Up starts a mother: "Billy, where are 
you?" No answer from Billy. Away goes the inquirer, 
wading through the recumbent multitude, and crawling 



A NIGHT AT ''CASTILLO HOTEL." 289 

under the suspended sleepers, till Billj is found and taken 
to the maternal embrace. "0 dear!" cries another, "I 
shall surely melt ! " " Hope ye may," growls a crusty old 
voyager ; " then ye '11 be quiet." "Ha! ha! ha ! " from a 
good-humored fellow away in the corner ; "no melting here 
to-night, can't stand that." Scratch, scratch, scratch, in 
this cot ; slap, slap, slap, in that. "Well!" exclaims a 
spirited female voice, ' ' I believe this is the ' mosquito coun- 
try,' sure enough." "All mosquito," responds another. 
"Rightly named," cries a third; and so the scene pro- 
gressed until I left and went to my own quarters. Every 
other cot here was filled, and many were " taking it cool " . 
on the floor. I took my place in this act of the farce, and 
was soon wandering in the land of dreams. 

'* The -world 's a stage, 
And all the men and women merely players. 
They have their exits and their entrances, 
And one man in his turn plays many parts." 

May 5th. Another morning has dawned on our Babel. 
I say Babel, because too many among this multitude are 
employed, I ween, in building " a castle in the air; " and 
they are of nearly every nation, and kindred, and tongue, 
and people, under the sun. The confusion of language is 
complete. After breakfast I took a solitary ramble to enjoy 
the mild morning air from the summit of old Castillo. 
Enchanting picture ! The quiet native cottages are scat- 
tered in rustic simplicity around the mountain's rocky base. 
" The rolling river " foams and roars until its fury is calmed 
in the peaceful level far below, where the native skims his 
light canoe gracefully over the silver waters, while the dip 
of his fairy oar is scarcely seen to ruffle its surface. Away 
in the distance two misty mountains lift their summits, 
25 



290 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

and look majestically down upon the green hills, that stand, 
like youthful watchmen, at their feet. One of these moun- 
tains, I am informed, was once a volcano ; but, if the story 
is true, it is certain the fires that may have raged within its 
bosom were long since extinguished by the power that 
kindled them. New and pleasing voices of strange song- 
sters are pouring forth their mellow notes, in the deep 
forests, directing my thoughts upward to the benevolent 
Author of this beautiful landscape. 

At this moment the steamer's bell warns me to be on 
board, and the wheels are in motion. We proceed about ten 
miles, are landed on the right shore, and "foot it" about 
two miles, — the depth of water being insufficient to float the 
steamer. But the walk is delightful, affording one a good 
opportunity more minutely to examine the trees and foliage. 
Here are several species of palm ; the smooth is the common 
species, but the velvet or ribbon palm is a rarity. From 
the ground, up three feet, the body is composed of a great 
number of green twigs, giving to the tree the semblance of 
a splint broom, the splints entering the earth and forming 
the roots. The trunk, above the point of junction with 
these twigs, runs up sometimes thirty feet, and appears as 
if a ribbon two inches broad, and of a whitish color, was 
wound around it, at intervening distances of about four 
inches. The broader spaces are dark, and are covered with 
soft velvet moss. At the top of this tree are many arching 
leaves, some of which are twenty feet long, and resemble 
those of the common palm. There is also the prickly palm. 
Its peculiarity consists in the fact that the body or trunk 
is smallest at the base, and is covered with long stiff thorns, 
which point towards the ground. The lipibs grow down- 
wards. We have seen another of those stately trees before 



UNPLEASANT DETENTION. 291 

described. Its trunk is about eighty feet in girth, measured 
on the surface, and yet in no place is the distance through 
the body, distinct from the bastions, more than two feet. 
Those bastions are about six inches in thickness and 
ten feet in depth at the bottom, tapering gradually to the 
point at which they meet, about fifteen feet from the ground, 
and form a cylindrical column, rising forty or fifty feet. 

We have completed our "transit" by the Company on 
foot, and are on board the craft which will convey us to 
Virgin Bay, the point on lake Nicaragua at which we take 
mules for San Juan-del- Sud. But here we are detained, 
and compelled to submit to most oppressive exactions, until 
the arrival of the steerage passengers. This is a wild spot ; 
no human habitation accessible, no possibility of obtaining 
one, even, of the indispensables to sustain life, except to 
purchase of the agents of the Company. But as every dark 
picture has some light shades, so our troubles are mitigated 
by the beautiful scenery that surrounds our solitude, and 
the novelties that constantly appear. The huge alligator 
makes us frequent calls. He swims silently around the 
vessel, blinking his treacherous eyes as he watches every 
article dropped into the water, and waits an opportunity to 
become better acquainted with his visitors. The sharks are 
not inattentive to us, but float slowly at a respectful distance, 
as if they had some recollections of small boats and har- 
poons. Large fish, of many varieties, are continually ex- 
hibiting their shiny sides, and the mellow notes of unnum- 
bered songsters tend materially to alleviate the irksomeness 
of our delay. The Transit Company will doubtless claim 
the credit of providing those blessings, as we prob- 
ably should not have enjoyed them, if we had not been 
imprisoned in these forests. 



292 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

A gentleman has just exhibited a species of the cane, 
culled, by those assuming to know its name, bamboo. The 
specimen has been accurately measured, and found to be 
eighty-eight feet in height, and but three inches in diam- 
eter at the root. It is very tough and perfectly straight. 
It abounds here, and is the material of which the sides and 
ends of many of the largest buildings are composed. 

Another night is upon us, contributing its darkness to 
the gloom of the double solitude by which we are sur- 
rounded. It has rained to-day, for the first time since we 
arrived at San Juan-del-Norte ; but the heat is, if possible, 
more oppressive than it was before the shower. This cir- 
cumstance is unfavorable to our comfort through the night. 
The vessel has no sleeping apartments or conveniences, and 
gives no food to the hungry. Each individual must "shift 
for himself" in both of these particulars. But many of 
my companions are much less vigorous than myself, and I 
should, therefore, be thankful for my good measure of 
strength, in these untoward circumstances. May the morn- 
ing dawn on us with some prospect of progress ! 

" Patience and resignation are the pillars 
Of human peace on earth ! " 

******* 
" What can we not endure 
When pains are lessened by the hope of cure ? " 

May 6th. Here we are, just as the night found us, 
except the fatigue of our rest. What a night we have 
had ! Two hundred persons crowded on the open decks 
of a small steamer, and taxing their ingenuity to obtain 
a recumbent position ! Mosquitos ! The lice of Egypt 
were blessings in comparison, both in number and vexation ! 



THE NICARAGUA RIVER. 293 

Their probosces, for point and comparative proportions, cast 
the elephant's completely into the shade. We neither slept 
nor rested; but through the ''live-long night " rolled and 
tumbled, slapped and scratched, kicked and scolded, until 
daylight brought relief, when, on stepping before the 
mirror, I was faced by an entire stranger! The scene 
reminded me of the two Paddies, who, meeting on the high- 
way, thought they knew each other; but, on closer in- 
spection, discovering their mutual mistake, one of them says, 
"Well, honey, I thought it was you, and you thought it 
was me ; but faith it 's nather of us ! " My face was almost 
a continuous red blotch. But not being alone in the meta- 
morphosis, I made a virtue of necessity, and, acting on the 
principle that ''misery loves company," assumed as compla- 
cent an air as I could. 

The steerage passengers arrived about ten o'clock, and 
now our little craft is truly 

" Confusion worse confounded.'* 

Five hundred souls are on board ! the boat is "firing up," 
and we are to be " under way " by two o'clock. 

It is two o'clock, and we are off. Countenances begin to 
brighten. Sweet smiles are taking the places of forbidding 
scowls on many a fair face, and happy hearts are peering 
through bright eyes, as we begin to realize that our oppres- 
sive quarantine is ended. 

The Nicaragua river is broad, but shallow, and is broken 
by the rapids which have been named. It is widest and 
deepest at its source, the lake, and its volume diminishes 
gradually as it nears the gulf. For the distance of fifteen 
or twenty miles from Graytown, it is much obstructed by 
sandbars. At this point the river is separated into two 



294 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

channels. One of these, named the Colorado, is discharged 
into the Gulf of Mexico, a few miles south of the port, and 
the other, retaining the name of Nicaragua, empties at the 
town. The latter channel is also divided by the Taura 
Creek, a few miles from the gulf But above the sand- 
bars, the river is subject to the peculiarity which has been 
mentioned, although it receives, in its course, the waters of 
several large tributaries and of many small streams. 

The steamer in which we now are, is, at least, four times 
larger than are those in which we left Graytown, and three 
times larger than those which were used above the first 
rapid ; but yet she rides here as safely from all danger as 
she would in the deepest lake. 

The beauty of the scenery diminishes as we approach the 
lakes. The shrubbery is chiefly low, bushy palms, bordered 
along the river with a plat of short, coarse grass. The 
land is low and level. Fish are plenty, and are readily 
caught with a hook. Large salmon, bass and perch, abound. 
The water used for culinary purposes, and for all domestic 
uses, is taken from the river. Fruits have disappeared 
since we left Castillo, and no agricultural or other signs of 
civilization break the monotony of the primeval scenery. 
Birds of singular figure and plumage frequently salute us 
on our way, and seem to regard us as strangers in their 
strange land. 

No culinary vegetables are raised along this river, nor 
are any set on the tables, except beans. Dried peaches are 
imported. The food is principally salted meats, and fresh 
fish from the river, with bread occasionally made here of 
flour brought from New Orleans. The tables, generally, 
are but indifferently supplied, and the charges are enormous, 
as I have before had occasion to state. At Castillo, we saw 



ARTIFICIAL STIMULUS. 295 

poultry in the yard of our hotel, but it was inferior in size 
and general appearance. Two chickens were dressed and 
placed before our company, at dinner, but the flavor did not 
very forcibly remind us of home. Fowls, of any descrip- 
tion, are very few. We have seen no milk nor cream, and 
we are informed that none is used. Butter is imported, 
and, when placed before us, is but a single remove from oil. 
It has none of its native rich taste and fragrance. Tea and 
coffee, with sugar, are abundant. Liquors of all kinds, and 
of the best brands, are still more abundant, and are in uni- 
versal use by natives, resident foreigners and travellers. 

Most travellers, particularly those of weak constitutions, 
actually require artificial stimulus to defend them against 
the very depleting effect of the heat. I resolved to make 
the transit without the aid of alcohol, but the third day out 
(the day before yesterday) my energies were so much ex- 
hausted by the heat that it was feared I would fail to 
accomplish the journey. I drank a common foot-glass of 
brandy, seasoned with lemon and sugar, and in the space of 
half an hour recovered my ordinary degree of strength. I 
have since used three glasses daily, and have endured the 
constantly increasing fatigue equally as well as my more 
robust companions. It is a singular fact that persons can, 
in this climate, drink, without feeling the least intoxicating 
influence, a quantity of brandy or wine which, at the north, 
would deprive them of sensibility. The draught produces 
immediate and profuse perspiration, but it imparts energy 
and vigor to the system. I am no advocate for the habitual 
use of intoxicating liquors as a beverage, but I am fully 
persuaded that the principle of total abstinence must allow 
a wide margin for exceptions in the low latitudes. 

Northern fruits are not seen here, the tropical being, 



296 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

with fresh fish, the chief subsistence of the natives. They 
also eat certain portions of the alligator and lizard. The 
native fruits are much sweeter and richer in flavor here, 
tlian they are when brought to the north. 

We have this moment arrived at Fort San Carlos (St. 
Charles), at the outlet of Lake Nicaragua. It is an old 
ruin, standing on high ground above the town, and almost 
out of sight. It would not command much respect from 
any small war vessel of modern construction and armament. 
It is a military defence, designed to enforce the observance 
of inspection laws and custom-house regulations, by vessels 
entering the lake. We '' came to," and sent a boat ashore. 
No other ceremony was required. The castle is built of 
stone and brick, and is similar in construction to Castillo. 
Between it and the lake is the town, consisting of about 
twenty-five small thatched houses, which resemble an old 
distillery, with its out-houses of pens, sheds and barns, 
in the northern states. The lake is a beautiful sheet of 
water, about eighty miles broad and two hundred miles in 
length. As we proceed on our course, a large range of 
lofty mountains is visible on the left hand. The decreasing 
temperature of evening has concentrated the clouds that 
float around their summits, and given to them the appear- 
ance of smoke issuing from a crater and floating heavily 
away in the distance. The whole view very much resembles 
a volcano, and is a truly sublime object. Near us, on the 
right, are two solid masses of rock, rising bold and high out 
of the lake ; and before us is the island of Ometepe, with 
its two frowning peaks, Madera, four thousand one hun- 
dred feet high, and Ometepec or Cono-Eptio, five thousand 
one hundred and fifty feet high. These mountains were 
once volcanoes, but the war of elements, that "far back in 



IMPROVEMENTS. 297 

the ages " raged within them, has ceased, and now, like the 
conquered heroes of an hundred victories, they stand, sullen 
and majestic, amid the trophies of their former grandeur. 

The sun is now shedding his setting rays over the fair 
surface of the placid lake. I have enjoyed the mild influ- 
ence of his morning beams, endured the "heat and burthen" 
of his mid-day glory, and I would fain go down like him 
this night to my repose, leaving behind the beautiful influ- 
ence of a well-spent day — 

" A peace above all other dignities, 
A still and quiet conscience." 

May 7. Arose at four o'clock, this morning, and went 
on deck ; no, — I slept last night in the open air, on the 
upper deck, and I should, therefore, say I arose on deck. 
Five hundred sleepers crowded the two decks of the steamer 
last night ; no, — another mistake ; — how potent is the 
force of association ! Five hundred weary travellers, who 
would gladly have been sleepers^ crowded the two decks. 

We laid down by turns. I endeavored, by searching, to 
find six feet by two where I might plant myself ; but the 
bodies were stowed so closely together, on both deckS;, that 
I could with much difiiculty put my feet between them, and 
I remained up, to gaze on the novel exhibition, until after 
two o'clock, before my turn came. And such decks for 
human beings ! A heavy dew had fallen, and well moist- 
ened the dirt and dust, which, by bed-time, were very 
equally distributed over the whole surface. We literally 
slept in the mud ! The mosquitos were careful not to be 
absent on this interesting occasion, but added their comforts 
to fill the picture. 

At ten o'clock, we came to anchor near a beautiful island 



298 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

in the lake, twelve miles from Virgin Bay. This island is 
quite large, and is very productive in tropical fruits. A 
mountain, rising to a great height, comes boldly to the 
water's edge, and in the darkness of the night frowns gloom- 
ily down on our little steamer at its rocky base. We an- 
chored at this point, in obedience to a regulation of the 
port which prohibits the entry of any vessel after sundown. 
At five o'clock this morning, we were again "under way," 
and at ten o'clock were before Virgin Bay. The town is 
located prominently on the bold shore of the lake, and much 
resembles Castillo and San Carlos, though it is the largest 
town. A few Americans are settled here, who have erected 
dwellings and other buildings, in the modern style, with 
roofs covered with Spanish tile. Several of our enterpris- 
ing countrymen have purchased large tracts of land in the 
vicinity, and intend to cultivate the native fruits, and, if 
possible, the northern grains and vegetables. A saw-mill 
is built, and is doing a good business. The forests must 
therefore produce timber trees. The town has no public 
buildings or schools. The American, English, Spanish and 
Mexican flags are flying, and the bustle at the landing- 
place of the " Transit Company," where the baggage is re- 
ceived and weighed, together with the herds of mules which 
are collected for the use of the passengers, imparts an air 
of enterprise that strangely contrasts with the inaction which 
elsewhere prevails. 

Travellers should not part with their mule-tickets until 
they are astride their mules and are ready to leave ; for, if 
they do so, the animal will probably be missing among the 
crowd when it is wanted, and an extra five or twenty dol- 
lars will be exacted by the dishonest owner for another beast. 
This is a trick often played here. 



LANDING AT VIRGIN BAY. 299 

From the appearance of the markets, the country is pro- 
ductive. Oranges, limes, lemons, figs, bananas, yams, plan- 
tains, egg-plants, cocoa-nuts and other tropical fruits, are 
on sale at almost every house, and in the streets. The ar- 
rival of the steamer has doubtless increased the supply in 
the market. The natives are generally black, and are bet- 
ter clad than those I have before seen, though the lower 
class, even here, are nude, excepting the scanty covering 
about their hips. The women are generally " undressed" 
to the waist, and their garments reach nearly to the knee. 

We were landed from the steamer in a launch connected 
with the shore by a rope, the Company having no dock. 
Passengers are detained on board several hours, awaiting the 
landing of the baggage, and when that is done, the rush to 
''go ashore " is so great, that life is often jeoparded ; chil- 
dren and feeble passengers are trampled upon; the launch is 
overloaded, and is sometimes upset; and valuable property, 
and even human life, is often lost in the transit from the 
steamer to the shore.* In the first case, it is adding in- 
sult to injury to tell the passenger that the " Transit Com- 
pany" may be answerable for the damages; for the injured 
parties are far from home, in a strange land, on a long jour- 
ney, and they must leave in the connecting steamer in a 
few hours. 

The luggage having been weighed and marked, is here 
packed on mules across the country, at fifteen cents the 
pound. The load is bound on the animal's back, a trunk 
or other article being placed on either side, with sometimes 
a third one between them. Two hundred pounds is the 
common burthen. Small articles are deposited in large 

* In Feb., 1854, a launch was capsized at Virgin Bay, Lake Nicaragua, 
and twenty-four passengers were drowned. 



300 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

bags, made of dried hides. The riding mule wears a rope 
bridle, and a tolerable Mexican saddle, with wooden stir- 
rups. About one o'clock, p. m., we were "on our winding 
way " to the Pacific. This is the portion of my journey 
which I had dreaded most, and I started with many mis- 
givings and fears. I had listened to the tales, related by 
other travellers, of their dangers and hair-breadth escapes, 
and great fatigues. But the mule-ride from Virgin Bay to 
San Juan-del-Sud was the glory of the whole voyage, un- 
attended with fatigue, safe, and delightfully romantic. The 
heat was oppressive, but the road was excellent. 

For about one-half of the distance the country is very 
level, and the road is nearly an air line ; but the remainder 
of the way is a winding track through undulating or rolling 
land, which rises, at length, into a lofty mountain. Along 
the side of this mountain, and over it, the path is laid. 
There we were, scattered along for several miles, chatting 
in groups, singing and laughing. Now a mule would start 
off at the top of his speed, despite the rider's power of con- 
trol. Suddenly it would turn short and run for the woods. 
Off would go the rider and his carpet-bag, if he carried 
one, and after the stubborn donkey would start two or three 
muleteers, followed by the merry laugh of the crowd. Now 
a mule would stop short, when neither pats nor blows could 
start it, but one word from the muleteer, so well understood 
by the beast, would put it in motion. 

In this way we went forward, halting occasionally at the 
thatched hovels on the way for rest and refreshment, until 
five o'clock, when we caught from the lofty hill-side our first 
view of that mighty ocean whose waters wash nearly half 
the globe. It was a thrilling sight to me ; one which, until 
twenty days ago, I had never even hoped to behold. Now 



THE GOVERNMENT OF NICARAGUA. 801 

the roll of the restless surf falls upon our ears ! How 
regular its return ! How heavy and solemn its dash upon 
the sand ! How high and broad it comes in from the coral 
caves ! 

The country along the transit road is not cultivated, but 
in the interior fruits are grown, and cattle, sheep, swine 
and poultry, are raised. The live stock, however, is inferior 
in quality, and is never in the condition which a northerner 
would call fat. An inferior breed of horses is here groAvn. 

The distance travelled by us on the lake is eighty miles, 
being from Fort San Carlos to Virgin Bay, thence the 
distance is twelve miles to San Juan -del- Sud. The true 
length of way, therefore, from ship to ship, on the word 
of the Company's agent, is two hundred and seven miles. 

The government of Nicaragua is what I should call a 
military republic. An executive is elected biennially, and 
has the title of president. The legislature consists of two 
distinct bodies, one of which may be regarded as the senate 
or executive council, and the other a house of repre- 
sentatives. But to sustain this legislature the military is 
necessary, owing to the factions and jealousies which are 
continually at work to overturn the government. The 
shadow of a judicial organization exists, but confidence can- 
not be reposed in the courts. No ofifences but the political 
are punished with death, and any criminal can purchase 
pardon, after conviction, by consenting to shoulder his 
musket, and become a partisan of the administration. A 
system of common schools is established by law, but they 
are opened in only a few of the larger cities. 

The native Indians of this country claim to be of Cas- 
tilian descent, but their physiognomy and physical forma- 
tion, however, too certainly indicate their extraction. The 
26 



302 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

Indians, Negroes, and Spaniards, by intermarriage, have 
produced a race superior to either, and which holds control 
of political affairs. The ancient city of Leon was the 
capital, but the seat of government has been lately removed 
to Managua, though I am told it is still practically at the 
former place. The people, especially the lower classes, 
are small, well-formed and athletic, but they are not cour- 
ageous. I had an example at Virgin Bay. My luggage 
being weighed and its transportation paid, I mounted my 
mule and started, taking with me, by consent of the proper 
agent, a carpet-bag containing my valuable papers. When 
I had proceeded about one third of a mile, a native in regi- 
mentals, and bearing an old musket, approached me, and by 
signs ordered me "to stand." I did so. He looked at my 
bag, and by signs also showed that something was wi'ong, 
and that I must return. Here was trouble. My company 
was ahead, and the return would bring me far in the rear, 
too far, I feared, for my safety. " Being sure that I was 
right," I resolved to "go ahead," and accordingly spurred 
on my donkey. The militaire then seized my reins. In a 
moment, and with as bold a look as I could assume, I drew 
a revolver, and pointing it directly at his hand, signified by 
motions that he must let go his hold. Contrary to my 
fears, he dropped the rein and politely bowed me on my 
journey ! My pistol, by the way, was unloaded, but he of 
course was ignorant of that fact. My companions ahead, 
who witnessed the encounter, set up a shout at the result ; 
and, on looking back at my assailant, lo ! he was shouting 
as loud as any of them ! 

The higher classes in the cities and interior are refined 
and intelligent, and many of them are well educated. 
The lower classes are very ignorant and vicious; are 



THE NICARAGUANS. 303 

much addicted to theft, profanity, gambling, and licentious- 
ness, but they are seldom guilty of robbery or murder. 
Generally these more daring and aggravated crimes are 
perpetrated by foreigners ; and, I regret to record, on the 
statement of Americans who live here, that our own coun- 
trymen are not an exception. It appears to be as natural 
for the Nicaraguans to play at cards as to breathe. Many 
of the lower classes may with propriety be called heathens. 
That they worship idols, not referable to any Roman Catho- 
lic ceremony, is certain. I conversed with several of them, 
who have some knowled^ie of the Eno;lish lano;uao;e, and 
found them as ignorant of a Supreme Being, and of any 
gospel creed, as the most benighted heathen in the darkest 
portion of the earth. They knew positively nothing on 
those subjects ; and, certainly, any pagan knows as much. 
The majority of the Spanish and the mixed races are Roman 
Catholics ; and I deem it justifiable to say that Popery in 
all this country is practically a very different institution 
from Popery in the United States. It is imperious and 
exacting to the last degree of severity. "Money, money, 
money," is the continual cry of the priests; and to get it 
indulgences are sold like goods in the market, and even for 
it the churches are defiled with prostitution. The chime 
of bells is heard several times daily, when both sexes are seen 
wending their way to the old, crumbling piles. The call is 
doubtless to a regular ceremonial, — the mass or the con- 
fessional ; but no traveller in this country needs to be told 
of the scenes which sometimes follow among the lower 
orders. Popery has cast over the mind and conscience of 
the mass of this people the dark pall of venality and igno- 
rance. Years must pass away before much improvement 
can be made in either their social or political condition, 



304 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

even under the influence of the enterprising and purifying 
spirit of this age. 

I must here close my journal for the day which is gone. 
It has been one of the most eventful of my life. When 
this lovely spring returned with its promise of '' sweet birds 
and sweet flowers," I expected to enjoy it with my family at 
home. I had not then dreamed that the seventh day of 
May would throw its evening shadows around me on a for- 
eign shore ; that I should then be gazing at sunset on the 
rolling surges of that vast ocean, whose waters lash the 
western borders of my native land. Truly, 

" There 's a Divinity that shapes our ends, 
Rough-hew them as we will." 



CHAPTER III. 

San Juan-del-Sud, Continuation of the Voyage, Pacific Ocean, Incidents, 
Views, Debarkation at San Francisco, etc. 

May 7th. San Juan-del-Sud, in general characteris- 
tics, is not distinguishable from the other towns on the way. 
It is situated on the shore of a small bay, and is surrounded 
on all sides, except that which opens to the ocean, by high 
mountains. It has no streets ; — about thirty buildings, stand- 
ing along the border of the sandy beach, and distant from 
the water about ten rods, being the whole town. They are 
framed and clapboarded, have shingled roofs, and are painted 
on the weather side ; but have no interior elegance nor con- 
venience. The town has no churches, schools nor public 
buildings. The population consists of about two hundred 
natives, Mexicans and Americans. The Pacific is the best 
hotel, but this is not as good as either public house at 
Virgin Bay or at Castillo. We see no salted meats on the 
tables. All the viands are fresh, and of the hardest quali- 
ty. No vegetables but red beans are set before the guest. 
Butter cannot be kept here, the temperature of the climate 
being too high. Fruits of many kinds are on sale, and 
are freely used by all classes of people. With respect to 
these luxuries we adopt the invariable practice of the natives. 
They eat fruits freely in the morning, but not at any other 
times. 

May 8th. The first day of another week, the Sabbath. 
2G* 



306 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

But how different its observance by the multitude around 
me, and its influence on my own feelings, from all the pre- 
vious Sabbaths of my life ! Even the last had charms 
which are strangers to this. I was then on ship-board ; 
the ship in port. Those who felt no respect for the day 
were on shore; and although no Sabbath bell summoned 
the professed disciples of the Redeemer to his " temple, 
made with hands," yet comparative quiet and decorum pre- 
vailed. But now confusion reigns. The mules with their 
burthens are arriving from Virgin Bay, and the passengers 
are anxiously watching to find their luggage. To look 
after it, is deemed a work of necessity. No ti-aveller's 
mind is at rest until he and his property are safely on the 
vessel. 

At ten o'clock the boom of a cannon on board the 
Brother Jonathan (Captain Baldwin commander), which 
lies far out in the bay, announced that her decks were ready 
to receive her burthen. The small boats, manned with na- 
tives and sailors, were put in motion to convey the passen- 
gers and baggage on board. The steam-ship company is 
probably too poor to build a wharf either there or at Virgin 
Bay. Those who are too timorous to wade three rods to 
the small boats, in water perhaps three inches deep, are 
carried on the backs of natives for two bits, or twenty cents. 
Ladies should be carried ; but I must confess that a man 
weighing, perhaps, two hundred pounds, astride the neck 
of a slender native of not half that solidity, is in my eyes 
a laughable sight. One leg thrown over the narrow shoul- 
der of the little bearer, the other held by the latter to his 
opposite side, and both the rider's sturdy arms clasped 
around the native's neck, were a combination which remind- 
ed me of an uncouth animal I have seen about the hotels 



LEAVING SAN JUAN-DEL-SUD. 307 

here, called the house-crab. This creature has a very large 
body and two strong legs, but he walks about the floor on 
two slender ones, that tremble at every step beneath the 
over-burthen ! 

Taking advantage of the receding surf, I walked safely to 
the small boat on the clean white sand, wetting only the 
soles of my boots. The '' go-aheaders " waded far out into 
the surf, and so great was their anxiety to reach the steamer 
that the lives of all were put in jeopardy by over-crowding 
and thus upsetting the treacherous crafts. 

Travellers must procure the conveyance of their property 
to the beach from the " Transit Company's" store-house, 
where it is delivered to the owner on the receipt of a check. 
The distance is about twenty rods, and the cost " two bits " 
for each article. From the beach it is conveyed on board 
the steamer by the Company. The labor of selecting your 
own from the great mass of luggage with which it is mixed, 
and getting it upon the beach, requires your personal atten- 
tion and vigilant watchfulness. The embarkation is labori- 
ous, expensive, and dangerous. 

At one o'clock, p. m., all was ready; the cannon boomed 
again ; the huge iron wheels began to revolve ; the steamer 
veered from her mooring to her course of N. w. half w., and 
in a few minutes San Juan-del- Sud was but a dusky speck 
upon the surface of the ocean. 

Now we are out to sea, and the same scene is commenced 
on ship-board that I witnessed on the Prometheus. The 
purser is assigning state-rooms and table-seats to passen- 
gers, and the deck hands are arranging and stowing away 
luggage. The ship's order is the same, substantially, as 
that of the Prometheus, but the Brother Jonathan is much 
the larger vessel. 



308. JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

We are now in sight of the western shore of this conti- 
nent. It presents a broken range of mountains of consider- 
able elevation, with no perceptible level between them and 
the water. In the interior more lofty mountains are seen, 
the tops of some of which are lost in the clouds. The sur- 
face of the nearer ones is of a yellowish-green color, resem- 
bling that of northern lands in autumn. Those more distant 
appear like immense clouds, and, being illuminated by the 
sun, they shine with great brilliancy. Sometimes they look 
like huge mountains of silver looming up alone and unap- 
proachable, against the blue sky. 

It is now evening. This Sabbath has not been one of 
rest, either to the body or to the mind. Confusion and 
excitement have ruled the day. But I am soon to disrobe 
for the first time since I left Graytown, and lay my head 
on a cleanly pillow for repose. As I look at the middle 
berth in state-room "J," assigned to me, I long to stretch 
my weary limbs upon it. It is on the " starboard " side of 
the ship, abaft the wheel, and as the breezes here come from 
the land, they must always give me a call. 

*' Thou boundless, shining, glorious sea ! 
With ecstasy I gaze on thee ; 
And, as I gaze, thy billowy roll 
Wakes the deep feelings of my soul." 

May 9th. " The sleep of the laboring man is sweet," 
and so was mine during the last night. Refreshed and 
thankful, I left my pillow at five o'clock. The weather was 
clear and the ocean calm ; but about midnight the wind blew 
violently, the waves ran high, and the old vessel rocked 
like a cradle. A man sleeping out on deck barely escaped, 
by the aid of a fellow-traveller, a briny bath over the side 
of the steamer. 



PIG OVERBOARD. 309 

We are in the broad blue ocean, no land is in sight, and 
we are making good progress. Thousands of blackfish sur- 
round the vessel. They are close under her sides and dis- 
tinctly visible. Occasionally, they show ten feet or more 
out of the water. They resemble the porpoise in figure and 
color, and the largest is about fifteen feet in length. 

A swine has just escaped from the pen and jumped over- 
board. Away it swims in the track of the ship, and it is 
impossible to recover the rash porker. It sinks and rises 
with the swells, and its legs are flying like the paddle-wheels 
of a steamboat. The sharks will feast on its fat sides, unless 
it sink below the level of their accustomed range before 
they " snuff the scent." 

In the romantic days of my boyhood, I had a passion for 
tales of the sea. The fictions of "Robinson Crusoe" and 
" Sinbad the Sailor," with remarkable shipwrecks and the 
narratives of voyages to distant countries, inspired my 
young imagination, and I often resolved to have 

" A life on the ocean wave, 
A home on the rolling deep." 

But time passed on ; my age matured ; the stern realities 
of life were cast upon me, and my early tastes became 
changed. But this wild adventure of mine has, in a 
remarkable degree, revived my young desires, and I often 
find myself seated with the sailor, late at night, listening 
with deep and increasing interest to his " long yarns," or 
his songs of the sea. 

The tar delights in relating to the credulous landsman 
his stories of hair-breadth escapes, and to sing his ditties of 
love, as he paces the lonely deck, or swings in his hammock 
during the hours of his rest. The dry distinctions of " me- 
um and timm'^ he never studied ; but he " carries his heart 



310 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

in his hand," and is always what he appears to be. What 
he possesses is freely another's, and he feels that another's 
should be his own. That is his interpretation of the 
" Golden Rule : " '' Whatsoever ye would that men should 
do to you, do ye even so to them." A practical and con- 
venient application of the text to be made on ship-board. 

One of the steerage passengers cannot be found. Search 
has been made in all parts of the vessel. He was not missed 
until to-day, at dinner. None of his companions have seen 
him since last evening. He has, probably, fallen overboard. 
The presumption is, that he came on deck in the night, and, 
either by accident, or with the intention of destroying him- 
self, stepped over the side of the ship. Thus, two of our 
fellow-passengers, who sailed from the port of New York 
with higher hopes and fairer prospects than my own, have 
disappeared, in fearfully rapid succession, and in the full 
vigor of health and manly strength, from the world of illu- 
sions and dreams ! 

This event occupied the attention of the company for an 
hour; many surmises were expressed, many regrets; but 
now it is not mentioned ; the children are sporting on the 
decks, some of the passengers are gaming, others reading, 
and I am writing up my journal. When we become familiar 
with death, how slight is the impression it produces on the 
mind ! We are prone to feel that it is another's fate, and 
not our own ; and banish the subject as one in which we 
have no concern. We forget the admonition so beautifully 
expressed by the Christian poet : 

" The world can never give 

The bliss for which we sigh ; 
'T is not the whole of life to live. 
Nor all of death to die ! " 



A WHALE. 811 

" A whale ! A whale ! " resounds from a dozen voices 
on the starboard. Yes, at the distance of about two miles I 
see the monster. Now he throws up a large volume of 
water to a great height. While it spreads and falls, he 
dives, and, in going down, shows about twenty feet in length 
from his tail. He remains below a few minutes, and again 
performs the same evolutions, slightly changing his place. 

With the whale scene the day closes. The ship at noon 
had made one hundred and seventy-six miles from our port 
of departure. An accident happened to her larboard wheel 
about mid-day, but it was soon repaired, and she is now 
under headway, with a fair wind, and the prospect of a blow 
during the night. 

At this still evening hour, where are my cherished ones 7 
What, and of whom, are their thoughts ? 

" My friends, do they now and then send 
A wish or a thought after me 7 ' ' 

May 10th. I was out at five o'clock. The sky is over- 
cast, but the ocean has resumed its calm, smooth surface. 
The steamer is yet on her course of w. N. w. half w. About 
ten o'clock, last night, the wind breezed up from the west, 
and for about two hours was high and strong. It rained 
copiously, and the swells ran high. I observed that the 
motion of the ship was steadier than it is in a calm. She 
varied not her course, as I could discover, a hair's breadth. 

Just before the rain our state-room received a visit from 
the schoolmaster who gave us lessons on the Prometheus. 
I knew him by " that same old hat," and the peculiar " cut" 
he gives it on his " Capitumy He very coolly examined 
my pockets, which fortunately contained nothing of value. 
While he was thus employed, one of my room-mates discov- 



812 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

ered him and made a noise, upon wliich our instructor seated 
himself on the door-sill. Mj companion, supposing the per- 
son he saw was myself, gave no further attention, but when 
the visitor took his seat, the former called to me, and receiv- 
ing an answer from my berth, began to suspect that all was 
not right, and cried " Who 's there ? " The dignitary said, 
" I did n't know as this was a state-room. I am sitting here 
to enjoy the breeze." This reply was manifestly false, for 
we had seen his proceedings among my clothes. On being 
interrogated whether he found the breeze in my pockets, he 
vamosed^ leaving us to our dreams. 

The dark clouds have disappeared ; the sky and water 
have put on their silvery brightness, and all faces around 
me are smiling and cheerful in the prospect of a fairer and 
cooler day. I say cooler day, because a cool one here is 
not among the possible blessings to be enjoyed. The days 
and nights are not only warm but hot. The breezes are 
warm, but they promote our comfort essentially, the motion 
being an agreeable change in the usually inactive state of 
the air on the ocean, as well as on the land, in these 
latitudes. 

No land is in sight, nor have we descried a sail since we 
left port. We are approaching the locality known by sea- 
faring men as the Pacific whaling ground, but at this time 
nothing is visible but the monotonous scene of sky, water, 
and vessel. 

A novelty to the northerner, in these low latitudes, is the 
apparent relative position of the North Star. In the state 
of New York it appears at an angle of about 40° above the 
horizon. At San Juan-del-Norte it was found to be at an 
elevation of only 12°. As the equator is neared, the voyager 
rises on the earth's surface and the horizon also rises. Thus 



A RUSE. 313 

the distance between the horizon and that star is constantly 
diminishing until the equator is reached, when it is but just 
visible. 

"A whale ! a whale ! " cries a passenger, who had been 
long on his feet on the quarter-deck. Up jump a dozen or 
more, curious to catch a view of the ocean king. •' Where, 
where 's the whale?" is the general inquiry. "Who's 
seen a whale? Who cried whale?" inquired a silk-stock- 
inged gentleman of a passenger who was then seating him- 
self in the easy-chair which the inquirer had just vacated. 
" Who cried whale, sir? " "I did, if you please," said the 
comfortably-seated gentleman. "Where is he?" "That, 
sir, is the question I can't answer ! " The point was dis- 
covered. A general laugh, and resolve not to jump up 
again at the cry of " whale," ended the joke. 

"A little nonsense, now and then, 
Is relished by the best of men." 

The steamer at noon has made 222 miles, thus bringing 
us 398 miles from San Juan-del-Sud, and 2716 miles from 
New York. 

May 11th. A bright and lovely morning. A mild 
breeze from the N. w. The ship is yet on her original 
course of N. w. half w. The surface of the ocean is smooth, 
and young whales, porpoises and black-fish, are keeping 
us merry company. The last night was stormy, the rain 
descended in torrents, the wind was high, fitful and bluster- 
ing. I was awakened during the conspiracy of the elements 
to disturb my slumbers, by the spray they cast upon me 
through the window and door ; but the bath being rather 
grateful than otherwise, I adjusted the curtain to protect 
my face and pillow, and bade old Neptune and Boreas 
27 



314 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

" Fan me briskly while I 'm sleeping. 

Sprinkle o'er your briny dew; 

You shall never catch me weeping. 

The good ship shall bear me through! " 

The tables of this steamer are better supplied than were 
those of the Prometheus. The variety of dishes is greater. 
The beeves and other stock are taken on board alive, and 
slaughtered on the way, when animal food is wanted. 

May 12th. Another bright morning dawns to delight 
the hearts of the weary voyagers in the Brother Jonathan. 
Here we are ; no land in sight ; no sail, nor whale, nor 
even a bird. Our course is yet w. N. w. half w. The 
steamer is thus put "out to sea " to avoid the breakers Avhich 
surround cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the 
promontory of California. We are now off Acapulco, in 
Mexico. This is the most important city of that government 
on the Pacific. It stands on a beautiful bay, protected from 
winds by lofty hills or mountains, and contains, now, about 
four thousand inhabitants, though it formerly numbered 
fifteen thousand. It is built in the style of all the old 
Spanish cities, having a large plaza or market-place, on one 
side of which is the principal church, and on the other sides 
are the public buildings and offices of the various function- 
aries. 

The streets are narrow and very irregular. But little 
attention is paid to education. The Catholic priesthood at- 
tend to that department, which is regarded as belonging 
appropriately to the church. It is not strange that a peo- 
ple, thus educated and indoctrinated, cannot preserve either 
a representative form of government or public tranquillity, 
which is so essential to prosperity under any other form. 

The business of the city is small, but is increasing yearly 



ACAPULCO. 315 

from the intercourse of the world with California. The 
American mail-steamers, and many other vessels, touch 
here to "coal and wood," get fresh water, and other sup- 
plies. Scarcely a week passes in which this place is not 
shaken bj an earthquake. Last December a large portion 
of it was destroyed by one of these terrible visitations, and 
the principal church, which, with all the other buildings, is 
built of stone, was rent from foundation to steeple-top. It 
now appears liable to fall at any moment. It is said that 
the weather is more oppressively hot at Acapulco, during 
the long dry seasons, than in any other city in North Amer- 
ica, the thermometer often standing at 120° in the shade, 
at mid-day, for many successive weeks. It is surrounded 
by high hills which deprive it of the aid of the winds to 
cool the air, and it is literally " founded on a rock," which, 
with the stone buildings, strongly reflect the rays of the 
burning sun. 

In the palmy days of the city, when Cortez occupied it, 
the celebrated opening through the hills of a passage to let 
in the air, called the " wind gap," was cut. It also serves 
as a road, and at that early day must have been a great 
work, requiring the labor of thousands of men for many 
years. The citizens are mostly swarthy Mexicans, who 
appear to be ignorant, treacherous and indolent. These, 
with a few more intelligent merchants and officials, and 
about two hundred foreigners, make up the population. 
The Mexicans indulge a strong prejudice against Americans. 
It is difficult to define the government. The department or 
district is ruled by '' aman in regimentals," who is wealthy, 
and lives in the city. He speaks of the people as his sub- 
jects, decides all questions of law or duty, and resists or 
obeys at pleasure the requisitions of the executive at tlie 



316 



capital. I understand he was one of Santa Anna's general 
officers in the war of Mexico with the United States. He 
controls directly or indirectly the inferior civil officers, and 
is in fact dictator. Acapulco has no charms. 

The last day's distance made by the steamer is 236 miles. 
She is, therefore, 874 from her last port, and 3192 miles 
distant from the city of New York. 

May 13th. Left my pillow this morning at five o'clock. 
What a cerulean sky and brilliant sun ! Not a cloud, even 
"as big as a man's hand," is to be seen. How inimitably 
the horizon blends in the misty distance with the deep-blue 
surface of the ocean ! And such a surface ! So calm and 
smooth ! Not a zephyr presumes to ruffle it ! So broad, 
and pure, and bright ! It looks a celestial mirror, radiant 
with reflections from a brighter world. 

One of the distinguishing characteristics of the Pacific is 
this calm surface. It will often last several hours, particu- 
larly in the morning, when it looks like a limitless expanse 
of liquid glass. Its motion is then sluggish and heavy, like 
molten metals. To this appearance its name is attributed. 
But this ocean is sometimes heaved by storms, though they 
are less violent and destructive than those on the Atlantic. 
When w^e are favored with breezes or winds, they generally 
blow in the night, but are back to their sources on the land 
before morning. 

This has been a very still, uninteresting day on board. 
The heat has been oppressive, and the passengers have gen- 
ally kept their beds or lounged lazily around the decks. 
But 

* " Patience and resignation are tlie pillars 
Of human peace on earth." 

The ship has made but 212 miles, putting us 1086 miles 



GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 317 

from ''the Sud," and 3304 from New York ; and here I 
close mj record of this. " melting time." 

May 14th. 0, fickle, fickle ocean ! when last I bade 
thee good-night, thy face was like Beauty's. Not a line of 
disquiet was on it, not a breath disturbed its repose. Sur- 
rounded by the glories of a lovely evening, unnumbered 
twinkling stars, a full-orbed moon and the pallid, silver sky, 
I took my leave, resolved to meet thee at the earliest dawn ! 
The morning has appeared, but where are thy evening 
charms ! 

" Gone like the baseless fabric of a vision, 
And left not a wreck behind ! ' ' 

We have arrived within the influence of the blows and rough 
seas which are so common in the Gulf of California. This 
gulf is affected by land-winds from the north, east and west. 
They sometimes increase to considerable storms. We shall 
be in them for one or two days. The swells roll heavily. 
But few of the passengers are able to be on their feet, and 
all are drooping. We have a revised edition, improved and 
enlarged, of the comical scenes of the first three days of the 
voyage ; long faces, neglected toilets, and stomach qualms. 

What a mystery is sea-sickness ! What a medley of con- 
tradictions — inexplicable contraries ! Now, the voyager is 
in fine spirits, impatient for dinner. But suddenly a ripple 
darkens the ocean ; in a few minutes the wind rises and the 
steamer begins to roll and rock. He is prostrate, languid 
and pale, disturbed by no word so much as dinner ! The 
blow ceases. It was but a blow. The steamer rocks and 
rolls no more, and the voyager is well, regretting nothing so 
much as the loss of the dinner. 

But I am about "anchored" myself, and my curiosity to 
understand the philosophy of sea-sickness is ebbing fast. I 
27^ 



318 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

am every moment becoming more immediately concerned 
with its practical mysteries. 

At noon the ship had made but 186 miles in the preced- 
ing nautical day. We are, therefore, 1272 miles from our 
last port of departure, and 3490 miles from New York. 
My head is dizzy, my hand trembles, my stomach fails, I 
am done ! 

May 15th. The Sabbath. The ocean is yet rough, but 
its violence is spent. The white caps are no more seen, but 
the long swells are annoying. I am sea-sick. That one 
word contains a long chapter, and I will lay my journal 
aside for the day. merely remarking that the wind is from 
the north-west. We are crossing the Gulf of California, 
and expect to be off Cape St. Lucas by three o'clock, after 
which we hope for a calmer sea. 

Seven o'clock, p. M. We have now passed the cape, and 
are again on the broad ocean. We begin to feel a sensible 
change in the weather. On no day of the voyage, at this 
hour, has it been so cool. We shall see no more very warm 
days. The temperature is at this moment twelve degrees 
lower than that of noon ! 

We are going out to sea ; no land is in sight ; no objects 
but sky and water are visible ; the surface is dark and 
rough ; the white caps are thickly scattered over it ; but 
the swells g^re greatly reduced, and the steamer rides smoothly 
and fleetly on them. Our sea-sickness is passing away, and 
we anticipate a night of comfortable repose, for 

*' Weariness 
Can snore upon the flint, when resty sloth 
Finds the down pillow hard." 

May 16th. A bracing morning. The surface rough, 



MARGARITA. 319 

the sky clear, the "wind north-west. Land in plain sight, at 
the distance of about six miles. It is a long, continuous 
bank of yellow sand ; but not the golden sand. It is piled 
up in very uniform height, about five hundred feet, against 
the sky, and appears in beautiful contrast with the dark 
water and bright white clouds. The summit has a darkish 
fringe, which, I presume, is vegetation ; but the view is so 
distant that this point cannot be determined. It is the west- 
ern shore of the promontory of California. 

This promontory is about six hundred miles in length, by 
one hundred in breadth. It belongs to Mexico, but is, at 
present, of very inconsiderable importance, except in respect 
to the future. 

Contrary to my hopes, we are receding from the land. It is 
now scarcely distinguishable from the clouds, appearing only 
a narrow, yellow streak, just above the surface of the water. 

Ahead, and more clearly visible, is one of the islands of 
Margarita, lying near to the main land. The view is much 
more picturesque than that of the promontory, but we are 
to approach still nearer. The southern extremity is a bold 
and lofty mountain, stretching far off to the west, until it 
sinks down and is lost in the bosom of the ocean. It 
appears like a dark, dense cloud resting on the water, and 
sloping back in irregular elevations, which are distinctly 
marked by the bright clouds behind and above ^ the view. 
Upon nearer sight, the formation of the island is easily 
apparent. It is, undoubtedly, volcanic, and now exhibits 
nothing but dry, barren masses of yellow clay and coarse 
rocks. It has no springs, and is inhospitable. It sustains 
no vegetation. The white surf is dashing wildly upon its 
rocky shore. 

About two months ago, on the western point of this island. 



320 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

the ill-fated steamship "Independence"' was wrecked. The 
ship being old, many people believed, at first, that she was 
intentionally run on the rocks, to enable the owners to 
collect the amount of insurance which had been taken upon 
her ; but Capt. Baldwin discredits the story. He says the 
commander did not deviate from the ordinary track, but 
misjudged as to his distance from the rock, which is discov- 
erable at low tide but is flooded at high water. The acci- 
dent occurred about five o'clock in the morning ; the weather 
was hazy, and it was the commander's first trip. He de- 
signed to pass the rock a mile ofi*, but mistook liis position. 
The ship struck, and was run in shore as far as possible, in 
the hope of saving the lives of the passengers, but she took 
fire, and by the double calamity about one hundred and 
twenty lives were lost. The Brother Jonathan was run 
close in, that we might see the wreck and rock. 

The island is just fading from view. It appears to be 
either a chain of barren rocks and clay, about twenty miles 
in length, or one connected mass running down at several 
points to the surface of the water. 

A cousin of mine, by marriage, was on board the lost 
ship, but I have not learned his fate. His residence is in 
Ohio, and he went to California as an adventurer. He 
left a pleasant home, a competence, and a lovely family. 

" Man never is but always to be blest." 

The ship to-day has made 203 miles. We are, therefore, 
1675 miles from San Juan-del-Sud, and 3893 miles from 
New York. 

May 17th. A bright morning. The ship is yet on her 
course of w. N. w. half ^y., and is a long distance from land. 
We have again a real Pacific surfiice. — smooth and glassy. 



WHALES AGAIN. 321 

with a gentle, heavy, rolling motion. It is_covered with 
spangles produced by the reflection of the rays of the sun 
from the water. If the eye is fixed on them for a few min- 
utes, they look like a shower of sparkling brilliants falling 
into the ocean. The illusion is so complete that they seem 
to strike and rebound before they disappear. 

A whale ! a whale ! cry numerous voices around me. 
Yes, there is a whale ! a real monster, over our starboard 
bow ! It is so near us that we can distinctly see its form, 
dimensions, and motions. It is just ahead, and is crossing 
our track. It is a large, " right whale." Now it rises, 
discovering about a third of its length, swims for a few 
moments on the surface, blows a large, scattered volume of 
water into the air, dives, exhibiting its huge tail, and is out 
of our sight. The same scene is often repeated as it ploughs 
its lumbering course through the briny element, and passes 
away to its undiscovered haunts 

" In the deep, deep sea." 

Last night, for the first time since I left New York, bed- 
covering was necessary. I have put on my flannels, which, 
during the last fifteen days, have been laid off. The ladies 
appear in warm dresses, and we have a season of general 
rejoicing. The breakfast- table presented agreeable evidences 
of the happy change, the butter being no longer a yellow 
oil, but having a very natural consistence. The thermom- 
eter stands twenty-five degrees below its point for the last 
eighteen days. 

Whales ! whales ! whales ! is again the cry. Yes, three 
of their whaleships are now in sight over our starboard. 
One of them is a " soggy" old veteran. It leads the van, 
and, in the judgment of several persons present who are 



'6ZZ JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE. ETC. 

accustomed to see them, is eighty feet in length. It swims 
very much out of the -water. The other two are, I think, 
younger, as they spout and dive much oftener. The flat tail 
of the largest, as it is lifted to our view when the whale 
sinks, appears to be about ten feet broad. We are now 
passing over the Pacific whaling grounds. It is not uncom- 
mon to meet many vessels "lying to" here, taking and 
" cutting in " whale, but none have yet been seen by us. 

The change we have experienced in the temperature has 
corrected an error which I have always entertained respect- 
ing the liability of persons to take colds at sea. Many of 
the passengers are now affected w^ith severe colds. "V\Tiile 
the course is east or w^est, the temperature is quite uniform ; 
but when it is north or south, changes must, of course, be 
met, and no good reason can be given why they should not 
aifect the voyager as well as the landsman. 

We have this day made two hundred and fifteen miles, 
and are now one thousand eight hundred and ninety miles 
from San Juan-del- Sud, and four thousand one hundred and 
eight miles from the city of New York. Thus, every set- 
ting sun drops his sable curtain around us, further and 
further away from our homes, but nearer and nearer to the 
haven of our hopes. He is sinking again into his western 
bed, leaving behind a clear sky and peaceful sea, with no 
object in view so beautiful as his own retiring glories. 

" The stars beam from their vaulted dome, 
And glitter in the glassy wave, 

The wandering night-bird leaves her home, 
And seeks the pebbled shore to lave. 

The mountain breeze from off the height, 
Surcharged with fragrance rich and free. 

Wafts ambient through the silent night, 
And spreads an incense o'er the sea." 



WHALES — TRACK OF THE STEAMER. 323 

May 18th. A cloudy, misty morning, with a cool 
atmosphere, but with very unpleasant swells. The course 
of the ship is north-west, the breeze from the west. No 
sail or other object in sight. The sailors are hoisting can- 
vas to give the impetus of the winds to our speed. The 
passengers have greatly abated in vivacity and activity ; 
the fall of the mercury having produced a corresponding 
depression of animal spirits. The gentlemen wrapped in 
over-coats, and the ladies in shawls, are seated before the 
doors of their state-rooms, employed in efforts to be social. 
A fire would be very agreeable ; it is almost necessary. 

This is the first time that whales have been numerous: 
They are spouting and diving in every direction. Many of 
them are small, but several are very large. They appear 
like families that are abroad to take the fresh mornino- air, 
or they may have come out to pay their respects to the 
s^teamer, whose majestic course through their native fields 
cannot but attract their attention. 

I have just been viewing with admiration the track of 
the steamer. It is about forty feet wide, and no view con- 
nected with the ocean can be more beautiful. It presents 
three distinct colors, inimitably intermingled and constantly 
changing position, proportion and hues. The ground is 
deep blue, thickly clouded and waved with a light, bright 
green. Over the whole floats a delicate pearly-white froth, 
or frost-work. Occasionally, the rays of the sun striking 
upon them burnish all these colors, and tip the white edges 
of the frost-work with sparkling spangles. Nature is truly 
a perfect limner, and she has the advantage over her imita- 
tors in her powers to invest the touches of her pencil with 
motion and ceaseless variety. This gorgeous ocean-ribbon 



324 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

is the production of the paddle-wheels and action of th^ 
steamer. 

The ship to-day has made two hundred and twenty miles. 
We are, therefore, two thousand one hundred and ten miles 
from our last port of departure, and four thousand three 
hundred and twenty-eight miles from the Atlantic emporium. 

*' Slow sinks, more lovely since his race is run, 
Along * the ocean's verge,' the setting sxm ; 
Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright. 
But one unclouded blaze of living light ! 
O'er the hushed deep the yellow beam he throws, 
Gilds the ' blue ' wave that trembles as it glows.'' 

May 19th. " Morn slowly rolls the clouds away." The 
last night was dark and gloomy. A chilly dense fog rested 
over the face of the deep. But the sun has risen clear 
and bright, and foretells a fine, fair day. He is gradually 
folding up the storm curtains, and hanging out, for our 
admiration, his most beautiful morning drapery. 

The ship's course is changed. She is now headed to 
port — north-west one point west. We are not far from 
shore ; hence the night fogs. 

The mail steamer John L. Stephens, from San Francisco 
at noon on Monday last, passed us outside at seven o'clock 
this morning, bound to Panama. She gave us a fine idea 
of our own appearance on our upward way. Under the 
power of steam, no canvas spread to aid her, regardless of 
wind and wave, she flew by us like an ocean bird. Her 
foaming track, straight as the arrow from an Indian's bow, 
was plainly visible upon the water for a long distance behind 
her ; and the dense smoke from her lofty chimney trailed 
in graceful undulations far away in her rear, until, expand- 



ISLE OF ST. SALVADOR. 325 

ing in the air, it rested against the sky, a white and shining 
cloud. 

As this majestic specimen of human skill faded in the 
distance and disappeared, I turned from the scene with 
enlarged conceptions of the perfectibility to which science 
and art are rapidly bringing the inventions of genius, and 
the complete dominion to which they are reducing the 
natural elements and applying them to promote the interests 
and happiness of mankind. It is not many years since a 
calm was the sailor's dread ; now, wdth steam for a propeller, 
he speeds on his course, and laughs at the storm-king asleep 
in his caves. Now, when winds oppose him, he need not 
beat a hundred miles to advance thirty; but, with this 
agent at his command, he defies old Boreas, and yields not 
a point of the compass, though the blusterer roar and lash 
the waves into mountains. The voyage from New York to 
Liverpool or London is not now one ranging between sixty 
and a hundred days, but is reduced to ten or twelve days ; 
and friends, three thousand miles apart, may determine the 
time of their meeting with almost as great certainty as they 
can at the short distance between New York and Boston. 
Time and space, and the ocean's storms and calms, have 
become minor hindrances to human enterprise and ambi- 
tion. 

The beautiful island of St. Clemente, or St. Salvador, is 
I'ust appearing over our larboard. I say beautiful island, 
because it rises fair and graceful out of the ocean, and 
stands so lofty and relieved against the sky. At the dis- 
tance from which we have the view, it does not look like 
land, but resembles a darkish cloud ; yet, as we approach, 
the appearance is constantly changing. The bright clouds 
around and above it very distinctly mark its outline. Now 
28 



326 

it presents the character of its soil, barren clay and rock, 
with sparse, stinted vegetation. This island is said to be 
about fifteen or twenty miles long, and is not inhabited. 

Our track is between it and Santa Catalina, an island 
lying several miles to the east, but not in view. The shore 
is very bold, the base of the mountains or highland being 
washed by the sea. The captain informs me that a portion 
of the interior is considerably fertile, and that cattle are 
raised there by the Dons, or gentlemen residing on the main 
land. 

A faint blue outline of Santa Catalina may now be seen 
over our starboard. It is an island similar in formation to 
St. Clemente, but more fertile. They are both volcanic 
elevations. Catalina is the higher and larger. The latter, 
I am told, is inhabited by a few families of Spanish origin ; 
and cattle and some other stock are pastured in its grass 
fields. Back of the shore range of mountains is a single 
elevation peering up, barren, dry and desolate, high into the 
clouds, and a little to the north of this is a long range of 
similar peaks extending far into the interior. 

Immense numbers of very large birds are flying around 
these summits, and occasionally they swing off over the 
water and around the steamer, coming so near that we can 
clearly see their shape, color, and even their eyes. Several 
of them will measure, I am persuaded, twelve feet from tip 
to tip of their wings. Their bodies are comparatively small. 
They have long beaks and webbed feet. They are of differ- 
ent colors, but mostly of a dark burnished brown. 

I am informed that the whitish spots appearing on the 
sides of the mountains are bird-lime, or a species of guano, 
that the birds are the fabled albatross, and that they will 



OLD SPAIN. 327 

follow vessels for days in succession, especially in stormy 
weather. 

There are two smaller islands lying contiguous to these, 
and they are known as the Santa Barbara and St. Nicholas 
isles. 

The steamer, at mid-day, had made 240 miles, and we 
are thus 2350 miles from our Pacific port of departure, and 
4568 from New York. 

These islands were named by the Spaniards. It may be 
truly said of old Spain : her empire has extended around the 
world. But what is her dominion now ! How circum- 
scribed her ambition — once so vaunted! How humbled 
and broken her sceptre ! 

' ' Clime of the unforgotten brave ! 
Whose land, from plain to mountain cave, 
Was freedom's home or glory's grave ! 
Shrine of the mighty ! can it be 
That this is all remains of thee! " 

Except the second and third lines, this stanza of the noble 
bard would do very well for a requiem to the departed 
grandeur and glory of the kingdom of Ferdinand and 
Isabella. May the day yet dawn in which her sons, 
regenerated and united, shall proclaim her rugged moun- 
tains and fertile valleys, 

" Freedom's home or glory's grave ! " 

We passed the little isle of Santa Barbara over our lar- 
board, just at night-fall. It is similar in formation to the 
others. 

May 20th. A glorious morning ! The surface of the 
water smooth and bright ; scarcely the ruffle of a zephyr is 



328 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

seen. The Brother Jonathan, headed N. w. by N., has 
both eyes eagerly set on San Francisco, distant about twenty 
hours' sail. 

The mail steamer Northerner, from Panama, is in sight, 
and we are both pressing ahead, in a trivial effort to arrive 
first within the golden gate. Our position is deemed the 
more favorable, being further from land, and about ten miles 
in advance, and our burthen being less than' that of our 
rival. 

What a bundle of inconsistencies and contradictions is 
man ! During the whole voyage several passengers have 
constantly expressed fears of the unseaworthiness of the 
steamer, and apprehensions of the integrity of her enginery 
and the competency and caution of the officers. It has been 
continually declared among them that the supply of coal 
was undoubtedly deficient, and numberless ingenious spec- 
ulations have been rife upon the means of "getting on" 
when the wheels should stop. But no sooner is the North- 
erner discovered, than every eye is directed far over the 
water to learn her true position and speed. "She'll not 
beat us," says one. "No, she's too far behind," says 
another. " Our engine is one of the most perfect ever put 
together, — the same that was in the Atlantic wrecked on the 
Sound a few years ago." " She '11 go it," cries a third ; 
"we took in sixteen days' coal at the Sud, and are but 
twelve days out." In the mean time, the decks are cleared, 
ropes adjusted, masts slushed (greased), sj^arsset, and every 
preparation is made to secure the utmost speed. All fear 
has fled, and the one great desire is to " beat the North- 
earner." Excitement has dethroned judgment and led 
captive prudence, among passengers ; ]:»ut confidence may be 
reposed in the officers of the ship. They are cool and firm. 



VIEW OF THE COAST. 329 

and they will doubtless control her speed within the limits 
of safety. 

I am now taking my first distinct view of the land of 
gold and graves. We are within a few miles of the coast. 
It is skirted with high mountains, but between these and 
the shore lies a belt of fertile land, varying in width from one 
to twenty miles. From the steamer, however, the view is 
unfavorable, this interval being imperceptible, and the high 
lands presenting a barren, dry surface, and sparsely 
covered with a scrubby vegetation. Along the summit of 
the coast, as far as the eye can reach, hangs a ponderous 
cloud, which, lighted up by the sun, is snowy white, and in 
striking contrast with the sombre outline of the broken and 
sterile mountains. 

Every few miles, as we proceed up the coast, the lofty 
chain is broken by valleys which extend back into the 
interior. These present evidences of fertility and cultiva- 
tion, — cottages being seen, surrounded with trees, shrub- 
bery, and many of the comforts of civilization. 

The mountain sides are covered with wild oats, and the 
crop, now ripening, gives the dry appearance to the country. 
These oats are small, and not of any account. 

Opposite us, at this moment, and far back in the interior, 
rises a very lofty peak. It stands dark and frowning far 
above the surrounding points. Clouds hang around the top, 
and, stretching far down the sides, reveal its rugged gran- 
deur obscurely to the view. 

On these mountains are numerous elk, antelope, deer, 
grizzly bears, and goats. 

This entire coast is said, by those who have explored it, 
to be volcanic, and is probably rich in the yellow treasure. 
As a general characteristic, the mountains rise from their 
28* 



330 



base irregularly and in broken clusters, to heights varying 
from two hundred feet to two thousand, and sloping grad- 
ually back against the sky. They are also divided longi- 
tudinally by deep canons or gorges, at unequal distances, 
from their summits, to the interval along the shore. In many 
places they resemble a great number of separate mountains, 
thrown promiscuously together, and piled one upon another, 
thus presenting a broken, confused, and ragged scene. 

We have now arrived before a singular isolated rock, 
called Point Neuff. It is surrounded by water, is about 
thirty rods in length by four in breadth, and about seventy- 
five feet high, in the centre, sloping gradually on all 
sides down to the water. The surf beats against its rocky 
base on the ocean side with considerable violence. Herds 
of cattle are feeding on the shore contiguous, which is a 
pleasant, green interval. 

It is now four o'clock, p. M., and we are fast receding 
from the shore, which is a dingy line scarcely distinguishable 
from the sky and surrounding clouds. The steamer is 
standing off Monterey, celebrated as the rendezvous of the 
American army of occupation in California. Intervening us 
and the city is Point Pinos, a long stretch of low land, 
making out into the ocean and forming one arm of the bay. 

We are now, again, and I presume for the last time, 
beyond the sight of land. If no delay occur, the Brother 
Jonathan will, before to-morrow morning, be safely moored 
at her dock in San Francisco. This pleasant company, 
fellow-travellers, for thirty days, over pathless oceans, and 
through semi-civilized regions, partners in toils, fatigues and 
perils^ will shortly separate, with but doubtful expectation of 
reuniting on the journey of life. Their hopes are, perhaps^ 
the same ; but their schemes are as different as their cir 



ARRIVAL AT SAN FRANCISCO. 331 

cumstances ; and their success will be as different as their 
schemes. Some are returning to their homes in California, 
and these will rejoice when the long voyage is ended. But a 
far greater number have left peaceful and quiet firesides and 
happy family enjoyments, in search of gold ; and to them 
the perils of the sea will be succeeded by the more hazard- 
ous risks and treacherous hopes of the miner's life. May 
none of them ever regret the step they have taken ! May 
their desires be realized ! But it is not unreasonable to 
presume that such wishes will be disappointed in respect to 
many of these adventurers. The history of thousands who 
have preceded them, will be their history. A very few may 
be the favorites of the fickle goddess, but a much larger 
number who have yielded to her allurements will either 
make their dreamless beds among the treasures that eluded 
their search, or will return, with broken constitutions and 
empty pockets, to homes which they ought never to have 
left for the uncertain results of the miner's life. 

The steamer has, to-day, made 264 miles. We are 2614 
miles from San Juan-del-Sud, and 4832 miles by her track 
from New York. 

May 21st. Arose at four o'clock, and found a foggy 
morning. The steamer had ''laid by" from nine o'clock 
until the hour of my rising, because it is dangerous to enter 
the bay of San Francisco in a dark night or a fog. The 
mail steamer, however, was brought through, and passed us 
in the night, very much to the chagrin of our passengers. 
But the captain acted the wiser part, — regarding the safety 
of the ship and her burthen, of more importance than the 
empty shouts of a multitude over a victory achieved at the 
risk of their existence. 

11 o'clock, A. M. The steamer has now arrived at Pacific 
Wharf All is bustle and confusion. The mate is hoarsely 



332 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

giving the order to "make fast," and the sailors, in obe- 
dience, are busy with the ropes and cables. The wharf is 
crowded with the multitude, hand-carts, drays, and hacks. 
Many persons are pressing their way on board in search 
of expected friends, and the weary passengers are collecting 
their valuables, and preparing to bid the good steamer a 
joyful farewell. 

The distance made since noon yesterday is 150 miles. It 
is, therefore, 2764 miles by the steamer's track from San 
Juan-del- Sud to San Francisco, and 4982 miles from that 
city to New York. 

The voyage is ended. Its perils and pleasures ar^ past. 
The passengers, excepting the two young men who died, 
have landed in safety and comfortable health. And, now, 
of the five hundred companions by whom I was, an hour 
ago, surrounded, not one is present. They are all scattered 
abroad. I am alone in the midst of thousands ; a stranger, 
and almost a foreigner, within the broad sweep of the 
" stars and stripes." 

The stars and stripes ! Talismanic words ! Significant 
of tireless energy, overshadowing dominion, fadeless glory ! 
No, I am not a stranger ; for where that ensign waves, there 
is my home ! I am not a foreigner ; for whatever land the 
Union embraces, which my forefathers formed and Washing- 
ton sanctified, that is my country ! 

" Our country, 'tis a glorious land ! 

With broad arms stretched from shore to shore. 
The proud Pacific chafes her strand, 
She hears the dark Atlantic roar. 

Great God ! we thank thee for this home ! 

This bounteous birth-land of the free ; 
Where wanderex's from afar may come, 

And breathe the air of Liberty." 



- OBJECTS OF THE JOURNEY. 333 

The items of interest recorded during the three months 
of my sojourn in California, have been incorporated in 
that portion of this volume which is comprised in Parts 
I., II., and III. This supersedes the necessity of giving 
the Diary for that period, which would be an unnecessary 
repetition. It may be proper, however, to add, that I pro- 
ceeded at once to the performance of the duties of my com- 
mission; which were, 1st, to secure commercial claims held 
by houses in New York against various individuals located 
in different sections of California ; and, 2d, to gain informa- 
tion respecting all parts of the state, so that merchants at 
the east might iearn the condition of trade here, the extent 
of the market, the kind of goods marketable, the resources 
of the state, its agricultural, mineral, and commercial pros- 
pects, &c., &c. 

In collecting information on such a variety of subjects, I 
necessarily visited a majority of the points of interest in the 
state, and had access to the various sources of information 
from which the preceding pages have been compiled. On 
the completion of my labors. I arranged for returning home 
— the diary of Avhich will be given in the following chapter, 
which completes the book. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Homeward Bound. General Remarks, Embarkation, Steamer, Incidents at 
Sea, Acapulco, Landing at Panama, Transit of the Isthmus, Scenery, 
Aspinwall, Voyage thence to New York, Burial at Sea, Conclusion. 

Having performed the duties of my commission, and 
taken full and cai-eful notes of all subjects which might bo 
advantageous to my principals, or interesting to my friends 
or to myself, when " my wanderings are o'er," I am about 
to set my face eastward — towards the home of my affec- 
tions. 

Doubly dear to me, at this great distance beyond the 
dark blue ocean, is the land of my youthful hopes ! 

" 'T is distance lends enchantment to the view, 
And robes the mountain in its azure hue." 

Yes, much as I love my home and friends, they are 
doubly dear to me as I recall to mind their far-off land, and 
anticipate, under Providence, a reunion with them. It is 
by leaving them for a season that I have learned how dear 
they are to me, and their influence over me. 

In the midst of the matchless energy and enterprise by 
which I have been, for months, surrounded, I have some- 
times imagined that the scenes in which I was moving were 
not enacting in the old world in which I was born and 
reared; but that, by some Pythagorean transmigration, I had 
become the subject of a new existence. Here, virtue shines 
out so dimly in contrast with the dark deformity of over- 
shadowing, stalwart vice; flices, complexions, costumes, 



GENERAL REMARKS. 385 

customs, habits, and business intercourse, manners, trade, 
laws, legislation, skies, air, earth, ocean — all things are so 
strange, so peculiar, so unlike my old associations, that the 
doctrine of the ancient philosopher seems, at times, plausi- 
ble. "Wealth abounds, but thousands are poor. Labor is 
in demand, but troops of idlers throng the streets. The 
necessaries of life are abundant, but beggars accost the pas- 
ser at every turn. The advocates of temperance are active, 
but dram-drinking prevails to an elsewhere unheard-of ex- 
tent ; the preacher of righteousness statedly lifts his voice, 
but Sabbath desecration is almost universal ; and gambling 
and licentiousness feel neither shame nor restraint at noon- 
day. Criminal laws are stringent, and are enforced, but 
crimes of every grade are constantly perpetrated over the 
whole land. And yet, despite these seeming inconsistencies 
and incongruities, the state of California is increasing in 
wealth, population, and commercial influence, more rapidly 
than .any other in the Union ! But, if History is not a de- 
ceptive teacher, this state of things cannot endure ; there 
must be a more elevated standard of moral virtue, or the 
prosperity of the state will be ultimately checked. 

The duties of my commission having called me into almost 
every section of the country, I have been enabled to visit 
most of its cities and villages, to view its extensive plains, the 
principal rivers, the lofty mountain ranges, the snow-clad sier- 
ras, and the hoary forests ; have mingled with the miners in 
their toil, and wrought in their mines ; have beheld with ad- 
miration their extensive and costly erections and operations ; 
have enjoyed the cool bracing summer breezes of the Pacific 
coast, and endured the depressing influence of the interior 
climate; have seen the heaps of gold, and the mammoth 
productions of the soil ; have wandered abroad beneath the 



336 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 



bright moon and stars that illumine the inimitable evening 
sky ; and have witnessed, on the right hand and on the left, 
the rising, as if by magic, of warehouses, dwellings, halls, 
and churches. I have seen California as it is, and am sat- 
isfied. 

In all this it is but just to say, that I have found much 
to approve, to admire, and even to love. I have formed 
many valuable acquaintances, with whom I should be happy 
to meet again ; and have enjoyed many social interviews, 
which will ever associate the Pacific coast with other cher- 
ished recollections of the past. 

"But now, whate'er my fate may be, 
And time alone that tale can tell, 
May'st thou be ever blest and free 

From every stain ! Bright land ! farewell ! " 

August 16th. This day embarked in the steamer Win- 
field Scott, Captain , for home. Having made the 

voyage out by the tvay of San Juan, and desiring to see as 
large a portion of the southern country as possible, I return 
by the Panama route, in the '' Pacific Mail Steamship Com- 
pany's Line." 

At one o'clock, p. M., all were on board; the cannon's 
voice gave the parting signal, and the good ship slowly 
rounded to her course up the bay. In a few moments the 
crowds, which had assembled on the wharves to witness our 
departure, were no more to be seen from the steamer ; and 
soon the magic city itself was lost to view, behind the beet- 
ling clifi'that forms the south-eastern shore of the " Golden 
Gate." The Marine Telegraph, at the base of which I have 
often stood to enjoy the wide and varied prospect below, was 
the last object, associated with San Francisco, that filled 
the voyager's eye. 



THE ^'WINFIELD SCOTT." 337 

Slowly and cautiously the steamer finds her way among 
the rocks that obstruct the passage between the city and the 
ocean ; and, one by one, the crags and hills, and vales, 
that line the shore, are lost in the distance, until, at six 
o'clock, no part of the "golden land" is visible, save the 
summit of "old Diablo," towering in gloomy grandeur 
among the clouds, which play around its summit, and, 
lighted by the descending sun, shine like sheets of silver 
flame. And now, even the lofty mountain has disappeared ; 
and California, with all its vastness, its wonderful past, and 
its mighty future, is again a distant land to me, one to 
which doubtless I shall no more return. 

The "WiNFiELD Scott" is a noble ship, stanch, airy 
and commodious in all her arrangements. She is well of- 
ficered and manned, but she carries only a few passen- 
gers on this voyage, owing, it is supposed, to a report cur- 
rent at San Francisco at the time of sailing, which charged 
the captain of the "Golden Gate," a steamer belonging to 
the same line, with unkindness and cruelty to one of her 
passengers, on his last trip. The merits of this charge had 
not been investigated when we left the country. It is 
doubtless false. (It has since been proved so.) 

I have only one companion in my state-room, and shall 
be alone after we pass the bay of San Diego. 

It is not my purpose to describe on my return voyage 
the things noticed when I came out ; and rJiall only record 
such incidents as may occur on the way. 

August 24th. We have arrived in the bay of Acapulco, 
an important port of the Mexican States. The steamer 
takes in coal here, and we shall be detained nearly a day. 
This is a beautiful bay; but was described, with the 
city, on pages 314 — 316. From the ship, the hills which 
20 



338 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

surround the city, clad in their garniture of perpetual 
spring, are an agreeable relief to the monotony of the ocean 
scene ; and the beautiful cocoa-nut groves, which line many 
parts of the shore and stretch far up on the mountain-sides, 
awaken, even in the mind of the frigid northerner, the 
wish that he might breathe their perfume and dwell forever 
in their shade. 

The dark-skinned native boys are floating skilfully 
around the steamer, crying, " Dime, dime, throw dime," 
and diving gracefully down far below the surface of the 
crystal waters of the bay, as often as their avaricious 
wish is gratified by some fun-loving passenger. 

The ship's coal lies in huge piles on the shore, and is 
conveyed on board in lighters, by the labor of the naked 
natives. Huge gold-fish, and fish equally large but of a 
shining silvery whiteness, are sluggishly swimming in great 
numbers near the surface, and catching at fragments of 
fruit and other food which are thrown upon the water to 
attract them. 

Seven o'clock, p. M. The cannon has just summoned 
the truant passengers from the shore ; and now the ship, 
having ''coaled up," has turned her dark bows again 
towards "the deep blue sea." 

August 25th. Last night the rain fell in torrents, the 
thunder rolled, and the forked lightnings held a perfect 
revelry in the heavens. In these southern latitudes, the 
evenings are generally illuminated, until a late hour, with 
flashes of electricity, without reference to the condition of 
the sky in other respects : cloudy or clear, the flashes are 
seen. 

About midnight, and in the midst of the tempest, the 
steamer took fire ! As most of the passengers had retired 



PANAMA. 339" 

before this occurrence, the tumult which would naturally 
attend such an event was comparatively small. Only a 
few of them knew of the accident at the time. Nearly all 
the wood-work around the chimney was burned, or neces- 
sarily cut away in the effort to extinguish the flames ; and 
the ship sustained considerable damage. The pumps were 
briskly worked for about half an hour, and the commands, 
prompt and fast, of the captain, were given to the ready 
sailors, whose hurried tread upon the deck betokened the 
urgency of their errands. It was reported in tlie morning, 
how truly I do not know, that before the accident occurred 
the fires had been crowded beyond the usual degree of in- 
tensity, with a view to recover the distance which had been 
lost in coaling the ship. 

" What next ? I know not, do not care ; 
Come pain or pleasure, weal or woe, 
There 's nothing which I cannot bear, 
Sbice I have borne this startling blow." 

August 31st. To-day the ship's bows were turned 
northward towards the bay of Panama. The land, covered 
with its rich carpet of deep green, was seen over our lar- 
board, rising just above the surface of the sea. As we pro- 
ceeded, the elevation of the shore increased, and gently 
rising hills appeared in the interior. About noon, we dis- 
cerned the dusky outline of a lofty mountain, called by the 
sailors Mount Darien. The passengers are engaged in ar- 
ranging their luggage, and preparing to leave the steamer. 
All is bustle and anxiety. The steward's bell summons 
all delinquents to his office for the settlement of their dues, 
contracted for extra luxuries during the voyage. We pass 
many islands, some of which are piles of naked moss-grown 



340 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

rock, but others are studded with trees and luxuriant 
shrubbery. 

On the isLind of Taboga, is the depot of the Pacific 
Mail Steamship Company. Being at considerable distance 
from the main land, its climate is salubrious and delightful. 
Invalids resort here to await the arrival of steamers from 
San Francisco. 

September 1st. The city of Panama is now in sight, — 
distant about six miles. It appears to rise directly out of 
the sea. 

Five o'clock, p. M. The steamer is riding at anchor 
in the bay, about three miles from the town, and cannot 
approach nearer because of rocks and shoals. Old Spanish 
ports seldom have docks, and passengers and luggage are 
conveyed to the city in btnigos, rowed by dark-slcinned 
and darker minded natives of the country. Three dollars 
a passenger are demanded for this service ; and he is landed 
with his luggage upon a platform about twelve feet long, on 
which he walks to the shore, and is charged a " bit," or ten 
cents, for the use of this contrivance. The same price is 
demanded for each article deposited upon it. 

During my transit from ''ship to shore," some thievish 
native rascal purloined my rubber garments, and I was 
compelled to cross the Isthmus in the rain without them. 
More than once did I wish, in the wickedness of my heart, 
that the burning sun of the tropics might stick the rubber 
fast to the black hide of the thief during the remainder of 
his life. 

Having safely landed from the over-laden, treacherous 
^^ bungo,'^ we sent our eifects by a native to the ofiice of 
''Joy & Co.," who are employed by the Mail Steamship 
Company to transport the United States' Mail and the gold 



PANAMA. 341 

freight across the Isthmus, to Aspinwall. We contracted 
with this express company for the hire of riding mules and 
the conveyance of our luggage, paying them sixteen dollars 
for the former, and fourteen cents a pound for the latter. 
These terms are regarded as exorbitant ; but they are cer- 
tainly more economical for the traveller than the payment 
of a less price and the loss of his goods. The experience 
of thousands will attest tbat it is unsafe — indeed, it is down- 
right rashness to entrust property to the custody of the 
natives or Spaniards, who keep mules for the transit of the 
Isthmus. 

Our next great concern was breakfast. It was now eight 
o'clock, and we wandered up a narrow, dark, filthy street, 
to a restaurant which is kept by an American, by whom we 
were very substantially and kindly served. After sufficiently 
replenishing the " inner man," we devoted about two hours 
to viewing the town. Ko place can be more dirty, dingy 
and dilapidated than Panama. The streets are nai'row, and 
paved with rough stone, which have been worn, without 
being repaired, for ages. They are lowest in the centre, 
and all the refuse of the dwellings is cast into them. The 
buildings, constructed generally of brick or stone, are plas- 
tered or are painted of a color which once was white, and 
they are from two to six stories in height. These several 
stories, as they rise, project past each other over the streets, 
and thus form a partially covered way, which shuts out the 
sun in summer and shields the inhabitants from the rain 
in winter. The ground rooms of the houses of the black 
natives, and of the Spanish, are used as stables : and, in 
many instances, the occupant and his family are boon com- 
panions with the mules ! 

The founding of this city is attributed to Fernando Cor- 



342 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

tez, more than three hundred years ago.* He raised around 
the old town a wall of rock and earth, a portion of which 
yet remains ; and it is curious to observe that the cement 
used in its construction is more durable than the rock. 
The latter is worn away by the action of time, leaving the 
former protruding far beyond it. 

The old cathedral still stands, venerable and gloomy in 
its dilapidation and decay, and romantic for its mysterious 
connection with the cruel annals of the shadowy past. Its 
dome is covered with shells of the pearl-oyster, which re- 
flect the rays of the sun, and glisten in his beams as brightly 
and silvery now as they did two hundred years ago. The 
comparatively modern cathedral, fronting on the grand plaza, 
is now being renovated and improved. It is a very impos- 
ing structure, having two towers and a front ornamented 
with many images placed in niches. The old one is reputed 
to be the repository of immense wealth, in gold and other 
mineral treasure. During all the revolutions which the 
country has experienced, this church has remained unde- 
spoiled, it being a prominent papal doctrine that the desecra- 
tion or plunder of a church is a sin which may not be re- 
mitted. 

About eight o'clock, all the bells of the city began to 
chime, and the noise was so great that no other sound could 
be heard. Very soon the inhabitants were seen wending 
their way, in great numbers, to the several churches ; and 

* It is stated, by some writers, that the original city of Panama was 
built at a point on the coast about nine miles to the south of the present 
city ; but others affirm that the lower town was but an outpost for the 
protection of the city at the head of the bay, against the attacks of the 
buccaneers, and that it was abandoned when it was no longer needed for 
that purpose. 



PANAMA. 343 

priests, clad in long, black gowns, small clothes, white 
stockings, pumps and three-cornered hats, passed hy us at 
every turn. As we omitted to comply with the general 
custom of raising the hat, in token of respect, these gentry 
stared at us with countenances indicating, as we thought, 
any other impulses towards heretics than love and kindness. 

The ruins of the old Jesuit college and of several mon- 
asteries, covering a large extent and overgrown with ivy, 
are interesting and prominent objects for examination. How 
many thousands, thought we, have been educated within these 
crumbling walls, have worshipped here, and have passed away, 
believing that prostration before a gilded altar is adoration 
acceptable to God, and that " an inheritance, incorruptible 
and undefiled, and that fadeth not away," in the "house 
not made with hands," can be purchased with tithes of gold. 
How little better was all this than the faith of the simple 
Indian, who roamed over this beautiful land before it was 
pressed by the foot of the white man or was coveted by his 
avarice ! Why mourn we, then, that these schools of learn- 
ing are in ruins 1 What good have they accomplished 7 
Ah, rather, what irreparable evil have they not wrought ! 

The battery or fort, a structure in the old Spanish style, 
fronts the bay, and looks much more formidable than it 
really is. 

This town, especially the modern portion, is very regularly 
laid out, the streets intersecting at right angles. A few of 
the dwellings are enclosed by high walls, and the cocoa-nut 
trees, vines and other foliage, rising above and blending over 
them, relieve the dry and gloomy exterior, and are suggest- 
ive of the fragrance and comfort which reign within the 
enclosure. 

The population of the city is estimated at six thousand. 



344 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

The number of Americans and Europeans does not exceed 
three hundred. The inhabitants are principally negroes and 
Indians ; but, by intermarriages with European Spaniards, 
a mixed race has been produced, which inherits a few of the 
good and many of the bad qualities of both original stocks. 
Ignorance, treachery, dishonesty, cowardice and indolence, 
are universal characteristics. The devotion to- gambling 
amounts to perfect mania. 

As in other tropical countries, the year here has but two 
seasons, — the dry being between December and June, the 
remainder of the year being the wet season. The climate 
is very unhealthy for foreigners, especially for those from 
the north. The temperature is stationary for many weeks 
in the dry season, at 95° and even 100°. Bilious fever 
and dysentery prevail, and a sickness called vomito ; and 
their attacks are, in the majority of instances, fatal. Sev- 
eral kinds of tropical fruits are abundant and cheap. 
Oranges, figs, plantains, olives, egg-plants, cocoa-nuts, ba- 
nanas, grapes, etc., are exposed for sale on the corners of 
the streets. 

11 o'clock, A. M. Our revolvers are buckled to our 
backs, we are mounted on our mules, and, in long proces- 
sion, at unequal distances, are leaving the town through the 
Gorgona Gate. This passage is a lofty arch of stone, open- 
ing through the old walls of the primitive city, and is sur- 
mounted with a cross and a bell. Our whole cavalcade, 
dressed and equipped for the toilsome ride, presents a novel 
and interesting appearance. The mules are by no means 
elegant animals, nor are they very obliging or comfortable 
conveyances for freshmen on the Isthmus. Several of the 
experienced among the ladies are clad in those masculine 
nether garments which " woman' s-rights women " claim as 



CROSSING THE ISTHMUS. 345 

belonging equally to themselves ; and our heroines, very 
properly, carry out the principle, by assuming the position 
of the sterner sex on the back of the mule. 

The road over which we are to travel, for at least seven- 
teen miles, was constructed by Cortez, to expedite the 
passage of troops and munitions of war from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific ; and it has been used from that period until 
the present, unimproved and even unrepaired. It was, 
originally, a paved way, the stones being set edge-wise. 
It was probably about five feet in width, and was intended 
only for footmen and mules. Wheel-carriages are not in 
use in the country. The time of its construction cannot 
be ascertained with certainty, but its existence can be traced 
back more than two hundred and thirty years. At the 
present time, the world may be safely challenged for another 
road so bad. 

The first two or three miles out of the city, being over 
level land, are comparatively tolerable ; but the remainder, 
as far as Cruces, by one route, and Gorgona by the other, 
can never be so graphically described as to convey a cor- 
rect idea of its real condition. The person who travels 
over it in the " wet season" will never be able to forget tlie 
adventure. In some places the paving has been pressed so 
far below the surface, that the way is a canal, filled with 
mud and water to the depth of one or two feet, in the bot- 
tom of which are loose stones. Over these the little mule 
stumbles, and often falls, bringing itself and the rider upon 
the bottom, and covering both with mud from head to foot. 
In other places, where the soil is more firm, the paving is 
loose and much displaced ; and although the mud is not 
very deep, the rider is liable to be precipitated upon the 
stones, at the hazard of bruised flesh or broken bones. 



346 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

In some parts the road appears to have been either worn 
down by water or by the feet of mules to a depth varying 
from two to thirty feet ; and at the bottom it is not more than 
one or two feet wide, increasing gradually towards the top 
of the gorge to six or eight feet. Several of these deep passes 
are a mile in length, and the mud and water in them are from 
one to two feet deep. While passing through these, a shout 
is occasionally given, that no traveller may enter from the 
opposite end until the first has emerged, or that one may 
stop at some small '' turn-out," and await the approach of 
the other. In these passes the traveller must keep his feet 
well bent under the mule, or he will be exposed to many 
bruises or more serious wounds. 

Occasionally a train of pack-mules will be met here, when 
the unlucky traveller has no alternative. His mule must 
be turned in the narrow passage, and its steps retraced to 
the nearest ''turn-out," or the pack-mule, with its burden 
of trunks, bags or boxes, will go pell-tnell over donkey and 
rider; for, in such a dilemma, it knows no duty but to "go 
ahead," and the greater the obstacle, the more ungovernable 
and resolute it becomes. In these encounters valuable prop- 
erty is often damaged or destroyed, and many accidents 
occur to travellers. 

If, to an account of the impediments, difficulties, and 
dangers to be experienced on such a road, we add the temper- 
ature of the climate at perhaps 90°, and frequent and copious 
tropical rains, with some well-grounded apprehensions of 
robbery or murder, the whole will give only a faint descrip- 
tion of the transit of the Isthmus at Panama. 

Mules often fail on the way, and the rider is obliged to 
proceed on foot. I saw one lady, whose beast had fallen 
and been abandoned for the safer progress of the pedestrian. 



CRUCES. 347 

She was literally covered with mud. Her hair was hang- 
ing negligently over her shoulders, her garments had been 
clipped to the knees ; and, with her dripping bonnet in hand, 
she was resolutely making her way in the company of sev- 
eral hardy men, who had chosen to cross the Isthmus on 
foot. 

Along this road are several houses, built of cane and 
thatched with palm or plantain, at which travellers may 
rest and obtain poor refreshments. 

Our company arrived at Cruces at about eight o'clock in 
the evening, muddy, wet and weary. I divested myself of 
my soiled habiliments, and made the principal part an offer- 
ing to the shade of Fernando Cortez, — the immortal author 
of this undescribable road. 

Cruces is a city, inhabited principally by negroes and 
Spanish emigrants from the West Indies. Its population is 
about four thousand. It has two or three streets, well lined 
with huts constructed of cane, and plastered, in some instan- 
ces, with mud. Several Americans have erected two com- 
fortable hotels, on the modern plan, and the entertainment 
is as good as the market can supply. At the best, it is a 
wretched place. Its only public building is the Roman 
Catholic church, which is situated on a knoll in the plaza. 
This is a long, low, narrow edifice, covered with a roof of 
thatch and constructed of stone. It is difficult ^o tell what 
constitutes the commerce or trade of the city. The inhabit- 
ants are indolent and poor. 

Sept. 2d. Slept last night on a cot, without pillow or 
covering. Arose at eight o'clock, and, after partaking of a 
poor apology for a breakfast at the West Indian inn, to 
which I was obliged to resort for shelter, I sallied forth in 
search of my luggage, but ascertained that it had not yet 



348 



arrived. At eleven o'clock, the first gang of mules came 
ambling down the street and stopped before the office of 
*' Joy & Co.," laden with trunks, and with boxes of gold. 
Among the former I found mj own. 

At three o'clock, p. M., I bade adieu to the dusky city of 
Cruces, and, in company with several other passengers, 
embarked with my effects in a canoe manned by three rude 
oarsmen, on the green bosom of the Chagres river, for Bar- 
bacoa, distant about fourteen miles. The current is so rapid, 
that our little bark sped like a sea-bird on her way, and soon 
we passed Gorgona, situated seven miles below Cruces on 
the left bank of the river. This city stands on high land, 
at a short turn in the stream, and in its general characteris- 
tics resembles Cruces, but is less in population. 

At seven o'clock, p. m., we reached Barbacoa, and took 
lodgings at the principal hotel. Being the first arrival, we 
had our choice of accommodations. The southern terminus 
of the Panama rail-road is at this place, but the company 
are extending it rapidly to Cruces. Barbacoa consists of a 
few cane huts, scattered promiscuously among the cocoa-nut 
trees. The population, principally negroes, is about one 
hundred. The locality is low, wet, and unhealthy. The 
scenery along the river is varied and beautiful. Groves of 
cocoa-nut, palm, and orange, are seen on the shore ; and in 
the distance are gently- rising hills covered with dense and 
magnificent foliage. Occasionally a lofty mountain towers 
against the sky, and heavy clouds, the offspring of the hu- 
mid climate, are resting darkly on its rugged sides. Huge 
alligators are numerous in the river, and sometimes approach 
within a short distance of our tiny craft. 

But ''night, the time for rest," has again returned. 



FLEAS, SPIDERS, ETC. 349 

" The king of day 1ms clipped his weary head 
Within old father Ocean's billowy bed, 
And twilight gray has spread its dusky veil 
O'er all terrestrial objects, hill and dale." 

Sept. 3d. Another night is passed ; and what a night ! 
I paid " mine host " three dollars for a private room, that I 
might, if possible, take some repose ; but I enjoyed my 
privacy with six others ! My coverless cot was beset with 
fleas from below, and mosquitos from above ; and about mid- 
night a huge spider had found his way to my person, and 
was marching with his multitude of crawlers leisurely up 
my back ! I bounded out of bed. and, by the joint aid of 
the light which was burning, and of my companions who 
were roused by my movements, the loathsome intruder was 
captured and despatched. The body of this animal was an 
inch and a quarter in length, and half an inch broad : and 
was covered with red hair, like that of the horse or cow ! 

" My blood ran back. 
My shaking knees against each other knocked." 

Sleep, of course, forsook the whole company, and the re- 
mainder of the long, long night, was occupied in relating 
snake-stories and horrible sights which the relaters had wit- 
nessed in tropical climes. Morning at length dawned, and 
the weary voyagers left their couches, feeling more fatigued 
than they did when they sought their pillows. 

After despatching a meagre breakfast of coffee, without 
sugar or milk, salt ham in a bad state, and poor apple-sauce, 
we repaired to the depot, and learned that we could not 
leave before two o'clock, p. M. 

Twelve o'clock, m. The welcome sound of the whistle 
announces the approach of the railway train from Aspin- 
30 



350 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETO. 

wall. It brings over the passengers of the steamer Illinois, 
on their way to California, and we shall return in her to 
" the States." We paid our bills at our hotel for two meals 
and lodging, seven dollars; purchased our tickets for 
Aspinwall at eight dollars ; and, at precisely two o'clock, 
were on our rapid way to the Atlantic shore. The length 
of the railway is now about twenty-five miles. 

Five o'clock, p. m. We are at Aspinwall, sometimes 
called Navy Bay, — a new port established by the Steamship 
Company, at a place about six miles east from the old town 
of Chagres. At this port the Company have a large and 
commodious ofiice, and an extensive dock and depot. The 
town contains but one principal street. The buildings are 
of wood, one and two stories in height, and are painted 
white. Several of them are spacious and imposing struc- 
tures. The population of the town is, perhaps, five hun- 
dred. The land on which it stands is low, and the foliage is 
deep and luxuriant. The place is chiefly sustained by the 
operations of the Company, and will, probably, never be a 
post of general commercial importance. 

Six o'clock, P. M. The cannon summons the passengers 
to embark on board the ship. Besides those of the Winfield 
Scott, the Illinois receives several from Australia, who have 
been tarrying at this port for several days, awaiting her 
departure for New York. 

Again the cannon booms, the wheels are in motion, and 
the noble steamer, with her precious freight of human life 
and gold, swings gracefully from her moorings, and is on 
her appointed course homeward. 

We have several sick passengers on board, but it is hoped 
that thei breezes of the higher latitudes will restore them to 
health and happiness before we reach port. 



DEATH ON SHIP-BOARD. 851 

The track of this ship, after the first few days, will be 
about the same as was that of the Prometheus on my out- 
ward voyage. All is bustle and confusion now among the 
passengers, who are taking possession of their state-rooms or 
berths, and making arrangements for comfort during an 
eight days' sail. Our number is about three hundred and 
ninety, — only about forty of whom have cabin tickets. 

The Illinois is not so fine a ship as the Winfield Scott. 
She rolls more, and is less airy. Her cabins are not so 
spacious, and her ports are very small. 

Sept. 7th. A death has occurred on the ship. One of 
the sick passengers has ended the voyage of life. How sad 
thus to die, far away from home and kindred, with no affec- 
tionate hand to wipe the death-damp from the fevered brow, 
no loving lips to whisper words of hope and comfort in the 
dying ear ! Even in seasons of health and prosperity, how 
dear are all the associations of home ! 

"0, pleasant is the welcome kiss, 
When day's dull round is o'er, 
And sweet the music of the step 
That meets us at the door." 

How doubly dear when sickness prostrates or adversity over- 
takes us ! But the dark-winged angel respects not time 
nor place. " All seasons are thine own, Death ! " 

" The sceptred king, the burdened slave, 
The humble and the haughty die; 
The rich, the poor, the base, the brave. 
In dust, without distinction, lie." 

As the last rays of the sun were fading from the sky, the 
body was brought on deck, appropriately attired for the 



352 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE, ETC. 

burial. It was securely rolled in canvas, and a heavy weight 
attached to the feet. The cot on which it rested was then 
brought to the side of the ship. No prayer was ofiered, no 
funeral hymn was sung. Slowly and solemnly the body 
was raised, and, at the appointed signal, disappeared beneath 
the swelling waves of the " deep, deep sea ! " One plunge, 
the sea rolled on, the winds swept over its restless surface, 
sighing a requiem in the trembling shrouds, the passengers 
silently retired from the scene, and all was over. 

Sept. 12. The emporium of my native state is in sight ! 
At this distance from the steamer, the outline presents, in 
fine relief, its high and its low grounds, its lofty spires and 
glittering domes. A dense cloud hangs over it, like a bur- 
nished canopy of ever-changing hues ; and the main land 
and islands around are smiling in the first mellow tints of 
their autumnal glory. Vessels of all descriptions are plying 
to and fro on the bright bosom of the ample bay ; and the 
shore on every side is girt with a broad forest of masts and 
spars, and ever-waving streamers. 

Fair city! The tribute of the world is paid to thee. 
The cofiers of all nations are unbarred to the enterprise and 
energy of thy merchant-princes. Science, literature, and 
the arts, in their highest walks, have found their congenial 
home in thy halls of learning. Thy press is second to none 
in efficiency, influence, and strength, and the streams of thy 
charity are flowing to the needy of every clime ! 

3 o'clock, p. M. The steamer is moored at her wharf. 
The passengers are leaving, and crowds of citizens are 
pressing their way on board, in searcli of expected friends. 
Commotion and excitement rule the hour. Happy greet- 
ings, kind salutations, and smiling faces, indicate, more 



TIME AND DISTANCE OF TRAVEL. 353 

strongly than words could express, the general joy that the 
voyage is ended. 

The time, since we left San Francisco, is twenty-seven 
days and two hours ; and the length of our track, according 
to my reckoning, is 5382 miles. 
30* 



CONCLUSION. 

AT HOME. 

I HAVE now travelled over two of the ocean routes to 
California, — going out through Nicaragua, and returning 
through Panama. By the friends of the respective steam- 
ship lines, it might, perhaps, be deemed invidious in anj 
traveller publicly to record his preference for either, espe- 
cially so to express it as to betray a desire to influence 
others. I feel no such desire ; but, as I am daily inter- 
rogated on the subject, and know that it is one of much 
interest at this day, I have simply added to my history of 
the state the journal which I kept of the voyages. In that 
journal all the incidents and experiences deemed worthy to 
be noted are faithfully described, and from them others may 
form their own opinions respecting the routes. 

It is, however, proper to state, that the accommodations 
and facilities for accomplishing this tedious journey are 
constantly improving. These lines are rival competitors for 
public patronage, and it is not reasonable to suppose that 
one will permit the other to excel in any point which can be 
improved. It is at the hardships incident to crossing the 
Isthmus by either route, and the provision made to mitigate 
them, that the traveller is to look in determining his preference. 

'' Steerage passengers" in the ocean steamers very often 
complain of their food ; and this is the case on both lines ; 
but, after having sailed on two ships in each, I am convinced 



ACCOMMODATIONS AND FACILITIES OP TRAVEL. 355 

that, generally, this complaint is made without any just 
cause. The truth is, that many persons, who are accus- 
tomed to live well, and even sumptuously, at home, will 
purchase a steerage ticket, from motives of economy, for 
$50 or $70, without bestowing a thought upon the fact 
that their fare is to correspond with the price ; and they 
murmur because they do not live equally well with those 
who have paid $300. It is very common, during the 
voyage, for steerage passengers to pay the difference in fare, 
and come to the first cabin table. They are then able to see 
that the discrimination is reasonable. 

The railway is now in use from Aspinwall to Cruces, — 
seventeen miles from Panama ; but these seventeen miles 
have always been the most difficult and fatiguing portion of 
the Panama route. When this railway is completed, when 
mules are superseded by stages on the Nicaragua route, and 
the navigation of the Nicaragua river shall have been im- 
proved, the two lines will possess very equal facilities for a 
quick, safe, and comfortable voyage to California. The time 
gained by means of the railway will be about consumed in 
makinor the sail between Panama and San Juan-del- Sud, — 
the port on the Pacific at which the passengers by the 
Nicaragua route take or leave the steamers. It is believed 
that the distance between New York and San Francisco is 
about five hundred miles further by the way of Panama 
than by Nicaragua, and that excess is equal, at least, to two 
days' time. 

Respecting the preparation necessary to be made for the 
comfortable transit of the Isthmus, little need, at this day, 
be said. Formerly, when a longer time was occupied, and 
accommodations by the way were less, this was a subject of 
considerable importance. A stock of dry provisions, and 



356 AT HOME. 

some conveniences for sleeping, were deemed necessary, as the 
companies do not board their passengers on this part of the 
journey ; but money will now procure a sufficiency of food, 
either good or poor, on any portion of these routes, and the 
time occupied (not exceeding two days, unless some acci- 
dent occur) is so short, that even an extortionate price for 
necessaries is not an object of very serious moment. If the 
traveller desires to adopt a rigid economy, or has a large 
family with him, he can purchase a few pounds of crackers 
and herring, a jar or two of pickles, some tea and ground 
coffee, and, in the wet season, a dress of India-rubber cloth, 
and with this store he can make the journey, independent. 
I do not account the rubber dress a necessary. A revolver 
is generally esteemed a valuable auxiliary. If the weapon 
is worn in sight, the natives will understand that Americano 
is ready for them, and will let him alone. 















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